Framing

[greasemonkeyredneck]

I've seen a lot of this and that about framing portraits lately and since I'm sick and can't get in the shop much, I decided to share how I do my portraits.

 

First off, I cut my portraits from 1/4" material with a 1/8" backer stained the color of choice, usually ebony for me. This creates a 3/8" thick project to be framed.

I have lots of material up in the rafters of my shop that ranges from 1x2 to 2x3. These are scraps from previous projects. Some are short as a foot while some are long as eight feet. So, I just need to make sure I have enough for the outside perimeter of the project plus about six inches. The six extra allows for mistakes and such while cutting my 45s for the corners.

Next I set up my router with a 1/2" slot cutter. I use a router depth gauge to raise the bit to 3/8". I lay my material down flat, with the 1" part being vertical. Then I set my router fence to cut the material about 1/4" from the side to hold the project. Then I run the material through the router to cut my slot. Of course, if I have more than one piece to complete the frame, I make sure they are exactly the same deminsions and assure I cut them the same way.

From there I move to the miter saw. I measure the length of the project, and with the saw set on a 45, I cut the two ends apposing each other, with the short side of the mitered piece being the side with the slot. I always cut it an 1/8" long. I can always cut more, but I can't add back to it. Do this twice and then twice for the width. It take practice. I still catch myself every now and then moving to the set up table with a frame that has the slot on the outside edge.

On to the setup table. Lay out your frame as it will be put together with the slots facing up. Measure your inside of the slots. Will your portrait fit without being too tight or too loose? If it's too loose, you'll have to trim your frame some more. If it's too tight, you have the option of starting over or trimming you portrait a hair.

After I'm satisfied the frame will work right, I have to put it together. I glue mine, but there are endless methods to this. Some nail them. Some use frame clamps. Whatever, this is a personal preference here. I just dap a little glue on and tape the corner tightly overnight.

The next day, I put a keyhole slot cutter into my router, set my fence, and cut holes to hang my portrait. I bought a keyhole slot bit for about 12 bucks late last year and it has already paid for itself by saving me the cost of frame hanging hardware.

The frame is now done.You can tack your portrait in. The hardware store sells portrait retaining clips you can install. Some people even glue their portraits in.

 

I hope this helps somebody. I mainly hope I haven't confused anyone.

[Barry5180]

Thanks for the information. I haven't started making frames yet. I just can't seem to get the angle exactly right no matter how much setup I did to my saws.

 

I had to move into a small apartment and had to sell off everything but my midi lathe and my scrollsaw. I've now moved in with my new girlfriend and have a room big enough to start buying tools again. I'm thinking that instead of a miter saw, just getting a table saw first, since that would give me the most utility. Saw a nice JET the other day I'm thinking about.

 

Barry

[greasemonkeyredneck]

A table saw will work fine for cutting 45s on frames. However, I've found out the hard way that the miter fences that come with most table saws aren't worth crap. Usually they are "sloppy" in the table slots. Also, the "fence" is never big enough to hold the material to be cut safely. All that being said brings me to a project I'm slowly working on now. I'm making a sled. For info on that, do an internet search for "how to make a table saw sled". There's virtually thousands of ideas on it on the web. I'm making mine mainly to cut perfect 90 degree crosscuts. I'm also considering an adjustable miter attachment though.

My reasoning on this is my 90 degree problem. I'm having nightmares over 90 degree cuts. I guess from normal use of my tools, I don't think I have a tool in my shop any more that cuts or marks a "perfect 90". Even my miter saw is about one or two degrees off. I recently, while building a cabinet for my wife, found out my square was no longer square. Upon buying a new one, I found it was about one degree off. So, the sled is my answer. I'm carefully testing it using a piece of plywood. My idea is that it'll be right when I can rip the wood, turn one side over, and it still come together with no gaps.

This sled of mine is of course a work in progress, so any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[britetomro]

I make frames for all of my work and have found out as well that as much as you try with a table saw, there is almost always a gap somewhere when you go to join the corners. Years ago while watching a New Yankee Workshop episode, Norm was using a device which has a blade that can take a fine edge off your cut either at a 45 or 90 degree angle. This is a manually operated device and it works great to provide a mirror/smooth edge on your cut. I purchased my at a Rockler store and here is the link, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... er=Framing. I was able to purchase mine on sale at I believe $169.00. I know that it is alot of money but due to the issues of creating the perfect miter joint and that I know with time and the number of frames which I make, it will pay for itself in the long run. Most of my cuttings which require framing are all the same size and I will usually make 10 or more frames at a time which can be very frustrating when it comes to joining the corners. I also join the corners on the backside with "V" shaped metal devices which work great in holding the corners together.

[blame]

well i have a miter saw but dont use very often in cutting miters unless i'm doing interior finish work. for framing i made a jig for the table that can be found in shopnotes magazine. http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/table-saw-miter-sled/ works better then the miter saw and is a lot faster to use since there is virtually no set up other then pulling it out from under the bench.

[Barry5180]

Blame, thanks for the shopnotes link. I remember an issue of one of the woodworking magazines that had a microadjustable jig for your router for refining the angle on a miter. I think it may have been shop notes as well, but don't know what happened to it. I think I like the idea of the tablesaw sled better. Once I get my tablesaw I intend to build that sled.

 

Barry

[Travis]

You all might get a kick out of this article I wrote a couple years ago. I forgot that it includes a full video demonstration on how to frame your own projects. You can find plans for building a miter sled here, but I couldn't get the slideshow to work (I'm on an old computer right now). But hopfully it will work for the rest of y'all.

[greasemonkeyredneck]

Those are greast links Travis. However, I've searched high and low on the net. I've seen some great sled ideas. In the end though, I decided to sort of incorporate several different "net" ideas and build one to my taste. For one thing, most sleds are built with a 4x8 plywood sheert in mind. My free source of mateial averages about 7 foot by 29". To be safe, I'm making my sled to crosscut up tp 30". My fence closest to me will be 5" high with hold downs. The hold downs will keep me focused more on safety than holding my wood in place. I will then make wedges of different angles to fit against the fence at the zero mark. I will have holes that dowel rods will fit into to serve this purpose. To make this like I want will require a little "fiddlin" to get it just right, but I do have in my mind what I want. OH! Under it, will of course have the standard strips to slide in the miter slots already on the table.

 

So far, all I have done on this project is the sled runners and the sled bed. The runners are just oak strips that I first cut oversized. Then I slowly planed them down a little at a time until I had a perfect fit. Then I cut my bed to size. I let the blade all the way down, positioned the bed squarely with the saw table and slowly let the moving blade up through the wood. The bed is made of MDF because I have found it to warp and cup less with the changes in temp. After running the blade all the way up through the bed, I shut it off. Then, through the top I countersunk screws down through the runners. Then I flipped the bed over, marked the runners, removed the screws, and glued and screwed it back down into place. After drying, everything slides smooth as silk.

My next step will be the fence when I can get back into the shop. I've been sick. I'm planning on using bar clamps to put the fence in position. I'll test cut a piece of wood, and flip one half over and see where I'm at. I'll adjust the fence till the two halves line up perfectly after the flip. Then I'll screw the fence into position, mark it, then glue and screw it down the same as the runners.

This is turning out to be an easy project, but time consuming. The time will be worth it though for the time it will save me in the future, not to mention the saved material.

[greasemonkeyredneck]

I finally got around to snapping a few photos of the sled. Here's what I got done so far. Remember, it isn't done yet. I need to mull over a few idea about how I want to add the other attachments. I've sort of changed my mind about a few details midstream. It works good enough at this time though for square cuts. I'm doing the Last Supper portraits and I crosscut all my backer boards yesterday. All I had to do was mark them on the outside edge, line them up with the blade, flip the saw on, a quick run forward and back, and after checking them with a square, they were perfect. This is going to work out to be a great addition to my table saw.

[Travis]

I need to make one of those myself. I ended up buying some miter slides from Rockler just for that purpose. They're really nice and won't warp. Terribly expensive though. I bought one thinking they came in pairs, but they don't. So I had to buy a second. 2 for $20 is pretty reasonable IMO. 2 for $40 is crazy expensive. They better last me a lifetime.

 

What materials did you use for the sled? Is it just regular construction grade lumber?

[greasemonkeyredneck]

The sled bed is MDF. I used it for the sheer purpose that I've found that is virtually never warps or cups. The fence is common two by material. I used that simply because at the moment it was the bulkiest, straightest piece of wood I could lay my hands on in the shop. Same for the back brace, which looks like another fence. The runners, under the sled, are planed down oak strips. I wanted to make them out of something that would not wear easily or get indentions in the edges if it got bumped when moving off the table.

[Pixman]

I got so frustrated after trying all sorts of miter devices I gave up. Now I make box frames for my portraits with the internal slot. Lazy but less stressful.

[greasemonkeyredneck]

I got so frustrated after trying all sorts of miter devices I gave up. Now I make box frames for my portraits with the internal slot. Lazy but less stressful.

 

I don't know if I'm positive what you mean. If I'm correct though, you mean like what I call a shadow box. It's basically a box built around the cutting and backer. If that's the case there's nothing wrong with this. I've done several past projects like this. To me though, it's just as hard as a frame. I'm building my sled for a different reason. My problem has more to do with getting the cutting and backer perfectly square to fit in the frame or miter box. As for making the frame or box, the only "device" I use is a miter saw. I use what is sometimes called a mitered chop saw, not the old miter box with a hand saw. The trick to getting the cuts right on the miter saw I use is to first get it to cut square. First, make a test cut. Take one side of what you cut andturn it over. Against the fence, push it back together. If there are no gaps, it is square. Sometimes you have to play with it until you get it perfect. As soon as you get it perfect, adjust your arrow indicator. Some cheaper saws don't have an adjustment. On those you actually bend the arrow tag to adjust it.

 

That's all there is to it. The just remember that unless you're making a mighty wierd frame, then all your cuts will be 45s.