smitty0312 Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hey guys, just wondering if you have any suggestions to making these last longer, I replace one about every 4-5 mo., I do a ton of of cutting too, but I hate spending $19 each time I need a new one, any help is well appreciated. Thanks as always. Smitty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Exactly what's wrong with them ,wearing out the threads? set screw move ment ?Rotary tip seisure ?clamp spreading? worn Pivots ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smitty0312 Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Exactly what's wrong with them ,wearing out the threads? set screw move ment ?Rotary tip seisure ?clamp spreading? worn Pivots ? I'm sorry....I didn't explain very well......it's the threads stripping out on the thumb screw side......Smitty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratcho Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Trade top with bottom clamp, trade thumb screw with the set screw. Set screw will usually grip in worn out threads. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) There are two things to try .( One ),get some anti-seize compound at auto parts (they have in sm. trial pks.) or a big dabber bottle ,extreame pressure put on threads ,at least by me ,almost is a siezure and causes excess wear on short threads w/o some lube (not grease or oil ) ( Two) you could try a helicoil kit and salvage used ones ,but I would still use some anti-sieze on them .Hardware store should have or on line (drill tap and insert tool ) if not wallowed out too much. Just check thread to be sure you get the right tap ! In a jam ,lock tite set screw in worn side and reverse knob and use left handed till you can get fix. Best I can offer! Oh! By the way ,If you have never use it before ,let me tell you install with a Tooth pick ,miniscule amount needed .also any you get on you on monday will still be with you on thursday .Great stuff but it can be very messy .very prolific a tiny dab will do wonders more is a mess ! Edited February 2, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 I know the feeling DAN,Just a few pennys more for some quality steel or better would be nice,The helicoil has fixed a lot of things for me ,wonder if they have them that small.I am thrilled to hear someone used lubreplate or anti seize compound .i had a giant can of it when i lost everything in 2006.i've been useing grease but the anti seize would have been much better but i forgot about it.Great tip and trick here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bendita Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 I wonder if taking a bit off the end of the screw could make the difference as the screw is shorter it will go in further perhaps using more or different threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Mine has a hardened sliptip cap on the clamp tightener knob screw ,w/o it it would be very problematic ,shortening on mine at least is not an option. Normall,any damage is to the actual clamp housing and not the screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I'm sorry....I didn't explain very well......it's the threads stripping out on the thumb screw side......Smitty Dan I had that problem also. The clamps I believe are aluminum and thus getting the clamp as tight as you can eventually strips the threads in the aluminum clamp. From others I learned that firm but not overly tight will hold the blade if the ends of the thumb screw and set screw and blades are all clean. I clean my blade ends by dipping in denatured alcohol (I do a dozen every time I open a bunch) and wiping them dry and then prior to using the blade I brush the ends with 220 grit sandpaper. If I start to get any blade slippage I then will clean the ends of the thumb screw and set screw to get off any accumulation that may have come from the blades. I think the blades have a light coat of oil on them when shipped. Since doing this I have found I do not have to tightened the blade thumb screw as hard and I have had no thread stripping in the clamp. Bendita 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 That difinetly helps ,but depending especially on fret work and the blade you are using, even more so with spiral blades and the number of reclamps on a single blade ,finger oil get on ends quickly and recauses slipage problems as well as blade tip bending from constant reinsertion in tiny holes ,, either top or bottom loading ,causing mis alignment to clamp screw ,after a couple slips I tend to get agressive ,but thats just me ,so I do the next best thing and use anti sieze .so far so good ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) I had another thought ,Depending on top loader or bottom loader use ,It looks like ,I could swap my clamps ,and put the worn one where th use is least used ,swapping would require swapping set screw and clamp knobs ,on both but would give me virgin threads on both and set screw could be lock tighted in worn threads and new threads on both clamps ,I would still reccomend anti-sieze ,I'll have to try that when mine wears . Just a thought . Whoops Dennis already posted It . Edited February 7, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spirithorse Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 The only other suggestion that I don't think has been mentioned is, instead of a heli-coil, just drill and tap to a larger size thread and buy a new set screw or thumb screw in the correct/larger size. Cheaper than a heli-coil and cheaper than replacing the blade clamp. Good luck and God Bless! Spirithorse smitty0312 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Where do you find clamp screws with the hardened pivots on the ends? What size and thread would be best ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smitty0312 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I have reversed the screws before.....best option I have I guess....except for re-drilling/tapping. Thanks for all your suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Smitty, Are you, by any chance using a device to help tighten the blade ? I cut one from Steve Good's sight and shortly there after I had the same problem, I stopped using it 2 years ago and I have not had a problem since. Hope this helps Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) You can see I use an inhancer in one in some of my posts ,I love it ,sure easier on the old hand and fingers ,but your right they give you a lot more power ,so you don't apply much get it tight enough ,mine have ears ,so I know by position when to stop . Just stoped for lunch ,back to the shop ! Edited February 7, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smitty0312 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Smitty, Are you, by any chance using a device to help tighten the blade ? I cut one from Steve Good's sight and shortly there after I had the same problem, I stopped using it 2 years ago and I have not had a problem since. Hope this helps Dick heppnerguy Yes I am.....I think I am going to try it without to see if it helps, but I really like feel of the added piece, will see if my fingers like it too. Thanks. Smitty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 The Biggest issue with threaded clamping devices ,is the female threaded ,portion is usually made out of a different material ,in this case the blade clamp housing ,than the male threaded clamp tightener , weather it is cast iron ,cast aluminum ,bronze or brass . The threads in the softer material recieves the extream forces of pressure and Friction at the last second of tightening ,when all clamping forces are at the same point within a few thousand's of each other (as in the case of scrollsaw blades ) the wear is always at the same point as the actual clamp spreads ,on tightening ,That pressure on impact starts to gaul the thread contact point in the softer metal ,causing a siezing condition ,impacting the surface and distorting it.. The harder metal in the screw recieves no such effect ,The anti-seize compound minimizes that effect allowing it to slide instead of gaul the surface extend it's life many times , The larger adjusting knob ,allows you to exert more clamp force with minimal effort ,It is helpful and handy to mark your add-on knob with a position mark ,till you get used to it ,However ,with-out the use anti-sieze compound will still be an issue ,THE MAIN ISSUE ,granted to a lesser Degree ,so you are left with a quandry ,Easier on the fingers and hands ,with better control .or tougher on them and still needing th control how much is enough ! We each have to decide what works best for us ,again there is no absolute answer ,But in either Way you chose ,I would definitely recomend anti-sieze compound it will drramatically help either way you decide is right for YOU!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bendita Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 So if you screw in your bottom set screw a bit more putting your blade of square but then do the same with the top set screw that should give your thumb screw a new rest point and thus new threads, just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Yes!! on mine .Dewalt 788 ,you could pick up to .060 of an inch ,off setting the blade as well ,I I don't know what effect that would have on the rotation of a 1/4 -28 thread rotration as to changing the impacted area ,could not hurt ,my guestimate is .035 travel per thread ,My feeling after further thought is the spreading of the clamp to achieve the needed force is causeing the impact area position more than the stroke of the screw to impact .the spredding & flexing of the clamp holder itself ,just my opinion , but it seems reasonable to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Another suggestion that i would make is: take some 220 grit sandpaper and roughen up the both ends of the set screws that conntact the blade, then it will not be so necessary to tighten the setscrews to such a degree that it stresses this part and causes the stripping of the screws. Just a thought.. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubgoofy2003 Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 After reading all of this great info, I have to say the problem is still, Over tightening. That's also caused somewhat due to the easier tightening 0f the blade clamp with the larger knobs that are easier to over tighten. The aluminum blade clamps on my 788 are easy to strip out, so I just keep telling myself, DON'T, when I clamp a blade, especially in the top clamp. I'm reminded each time I flatten a blade top. It might be from the spin of the end button not turning enough when I tighten the thumb screw. I need to clean them & oil them more often, so it will turn easier. Well, I tired already, so will quit rattleing on. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) Dick ,It will definitely help remove any oil or compressed saw dust ,multi swaping hole cuts adds oil off fingers as well as saw dust flour ,which gets mashed at clamp ups miniscule amounts build up ,another thing for spiral users is to straighten and align the twisted tips to paralel w ea.other not doing so asks for miss contact w/ last clamp set . Perk ,you are right ,it's all related some form of over tightening ,and your right about bigger knobs make that easier,thats why I stress positioning the knob any knob is the only way I know of to repeat consistantly ,(unless something changes the width of the blade ),parcial alignment ,twisted tip ,or mysterious build up ,so if that position changes ,you need to look and find out and correct the condition . It could be if you changed blades & you put in a different width blade from what you were using ,smaller or larger .but you will know ,before you start cutting ! Oiling the tip is not abad idea ,just make sure to get off the business end ! 10-4 on the tired part ! Carl Edited February 10, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I don't understand !! Is this correct? The thumb screw has threads running from the tightning knob to within 1/8 inch of the end. IE: the threads stop about 1/8 inch from the end where it contacts the blade. You have a problem with the threads stripping near the knob area??? and not near the blade area. Possibly the first few female threads are out of whack. Retaping the female threads will help. Use the SAME thread. Don't change the thread. JMHO Thats my thoughts..... Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I don't understand !! Is this correct? The thumb screw has threads running from the tightning knob to within 1/8 inch of the end. IE: the threads stop about 1/8 inch from the end where it contacts the blade. You have a problem with the threads stripping near the knob area??? and not near the blade area. Possibly the first few female threads are out of whack. Retaping the female threads will help. Use the SAME thread. Don't change the thread. JMHO Thats my thoughts..... Larry Larry ,The hole is already bigger than the tap that made the threads ,From normal wear & or gauling ,or both ! The threads are .290 ,full depth of one side of the clamp ,the swivel tip on theclamp screw is .080 the max blade slot is .090 ,8or9 threads to work with max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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