Asking for Assistance

[ironman123]

For 1/8 inch thick Baltic Birch and 1/4 inch Poplar with inside cuts as well as outside cuts, what size (#) blade would be best and motor speed?
Thanks and all replies appreciated.

Ray

 

[DonR]

When I cut thin BB I use FD Spiral blades # 1 and/or #3 at about 75% speed. I stack cut at least 3 at a time. Works for me.

Don R

[ironman123]

Thank you for your reply.  I am also using 1/4" poplar, should I use the same size and speed?

 

Ray

[Dan]

I agree with Don and would also do the same with 1/4" poplar. You may want to stack 2 but you can stack 3 but that may be a little much for a #1 blade.

[DWSUDEKUM]

Ray,

 

Both of the woods you have mentioned are softwoods.  A #3 ultra reverse at a medium speed will do you for most cutting of 3/4 or less.  You can use a larger numbered blade or a spiral blade.  The spirals have a learning curve to them.  Personally I tend to use a #3 or a #5 blade reverse or not depending upon which wood I am cutting.  Depending upon how fine you are cutting you might want to think about making a zero clearance insert for your saw to help support the work.  Hope this helps.

 

 

DW

[ironman123]

Thank you both Dan and DW.  I have tried the spirals but they are stubborn or I haven't gone far enough into the learning curve.

 

Ray

[spirithorse]

Hi, Ray,

Here is a link to a chart which gives suggestions on blade sizes and their recommended uses.

I am sure there are better charts available but, this is the first one I found and it lists

CAN USE, RECOMMENDED, and CAN'T USE categories for the material and thickness to be cut.

http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-16765698503918/ScrollChart.pdf

 

Good luck and God Bless! Spirithorse

[ironman123]

Thanks spirithorse.

 

Ray

[Sparkey]

I usually stack three pieces of 1/4" Maple plywood. I cut everything with FD 2/0 and 3/0 spiral blades. I adjust the speed to around 50%.

[ironman123]

Thanks Sparkey.

 

Ray

[amazingkevin]

thanks for the blade chart

[heppnerguy]

I agree with the stack cut advice. It increases the resistance of the piece so you have a little more control. I do this a little different than the other guys.. I always use a duoble tooth blade #3 of smaller because they are not quite agressive and if my piece is very intriquet then I slow my saw way down to 2 to 3 on my saw and it makes it so I can cut way down of any possible error on making really sharp angles. this works for me..try a couple of ideas, the ones you were given is what works for them, the ones I gave you works for me. Everyone is different. take your time and you will be alright.

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[ironman123]

Thank you Dick and all the others for the fine help with this matter.  I think I will go ahead and mtake a stab at it.  Thank you all again.

 

Ray

[Kepy]

I would agree with everyone about stacking.  I have found that a 4 stack of the 1/8" bb works best.  I normally don't stack 1/4".  For blades, I use everything from 0 to 5 depending on the intricacy of the project.  I use only flat reverse tooth blades as I despise spirals and will only use them if the project is too large for the saw.

[ironman123]

Thanks Kepy.

 

Ray

[Lucky2]

Ray,

 

Both of the woods you have mentioned are softwoods.  A #3 ultra reverse at a medium speed will do you for most cutting of 3/4 or less.  You can use a larger numbered blade or a spiral blade.  The spirals have a learning curve to them.  Personally I tend to use a #3 or a #5 blade reverse or not depending upon which wood I am cutting.  Depending upon how fine you are cutting you might want to think about making a zero clearance insert for your saw to help support the work.  Hope this helps.

 

 

DW

DW, I hate to disagree with you, but, Baltic Birch and Poplar are not softwood. One is made with birch ply and the other is Poplar, so that alone makes them a hardwood, then you add the glue and extreme heat to make it even harder.

Ray, I've never enjoyed cutting a single layer of 1/8" plywood, but, if I absolutely have to I use a #1 or #3 flat blade with my cutting speed at about 1/3 max speed. I have always found that it is a lot easier to cut thin wood, if you can stack cut it.

Len

Edited February 10, 2014 by Lucky2

[DWSUDEKUM]

DW, I hate to disagree with you, but, Baltic Birch and Poplar are not softwood. One is made with birch ply and the other is Poplar, so that alone makes them a hardwood, then you add the glue and extreme heat to make it even harder.

Ray, I've never enjoyed cutting a single layer of 1/8" plywood, but, if I absolutely have to I use a #1 or #3 flat blade with my cutting speed at about 1/3 max speed. I have always found that it is a lot easier to cut thin wood, if you can stack cut it.

Len

Len I was speaking relatively.  Both Poplar and Birch are relatively soft compared to some woods like maple, oak, yellowheart. purpleheart.  Plywood in general is much harder on blades than solid wood as the glues tend to be abrasive on the blades.  However for the discussion at hand I agree with most everyone about the blade choices.  Personal preferences on what blade to use for what comes with experience.

 

DW

[ironman123]

I thank you all for these informative replies.  Most helpful.

 

Ray