Knob Upgrade (Dewalt)

[smitty0312]

I am going to try out this knob.....this is the one Steve Good made for the excaliber....I adapted it for my Dewalt....I don't think I will get quite the torque as i did with the other one I had that Steve Good made for the Dewalt, keeping me from stripping out the threads on the blade clamp. Any thoughts? Thanks Smitty

[ironman123]

I like that.  Easier to use that the DW one.

 

Ray

[Phantom Scroller]

A very pretty knob......... Dan you don't know your own strength be more gentler that will help.   

 

Roly

[Multifasited]

That sure makes it easier on the hands and fingers ,But very little force is needed ,I made mine double tear drop ,to keep as much table clearance as possible ,What I would suggest ,install your favorite blade ,what ever you use the most often tighten and test that it is tight ,this will give you the position of the factory lock screw in most used position ,a round knob ,no matter ,but double tear drop I want to face flat or straight ,in the business position ,it also gives me position to repeat at every blade swap in fret, with out having to look , You could mark a round knob with a cut line as an indicator , Then  I mark the outline and cut to locked position is where I want it to be ,I've had it this way a couple yrs, no complaints .when I change to another size  width blades I note where it points and reset there .May not be for everybody but works fine for me! But what ever you decide to do or not do ,I would still highly reccomend anti-sieze ,! 

 

When your going for a position the force problem is not much of an issue!

Edited February 9, 2014 by Multifasited

[ubgoofy2003]

I like the oval knob. I made one up a while back & it works fine for me. I have a question about blade tightening, which has a lot to do with these types of knobs. Have you had a problem with your blade flattening out on the top, because of over-tightening? It's hard to feed through the drill hole after a while. I don't like tossing a blade, before it's time, just because of this. So, I'm thinking the smaller the knob, the less problem I will have with this. I never have a problem with blades slipping out of the clamp, so I'm assuming that I over tighten a bit.  I have replaced my top & bottom clamps due to stripping the threads, so I am aware.  Good Luck

                                                                 Perk

[Multifasited]

Perk,  No ,I use positioning to set the pressure ,by first tightening with the std factory knob ,then position my double tear drop flat to the arm of the saw and draw the pattern for the insert hole while in that position  ,then cut it out and my dtd knob is in the flat position . Marking your oval knob will be harder to feel but stopping on your mark no extra pressure is ever used ,   The bent end is a combination effect , in my experience ,not getting blade fully back in the clamp ,catching only part of the blade while clamping ,will start the bending process ,or flattening  ,once it starts It gets harder and harder to get all the way back with out flexing the blade to form a bow toward the front to get the tip in to the clamping tip fully ,Second ,once the slight bend in the tip occurs feeding process gets harder and because it is slightly bent already tends to jam on the hole or continue to bend at the weak spot .The other way of course in feeding thru hole toward center of a piece  where space is narrowest . I am sure you use your saw more than I do but ,I still have the original clamps ,Now that I have said that they

may go tommorrow .Mine a type 1 ,so it not new or even close ,but I firmly believe in anti-sieze compound ,too much experience in machine industry to not be .   Another point I would strongly make is to( listen )to the saw .as I start the saw up ,whether swapping hole ,or changing blades ,any increase in the sound (almost a slight rattle sound) (prior to starting a cut )indicates ,for what ever reason you tension is loose ,stop and reset tention and I bet it quiets right down ,if you don't your cut will suffer ,bow ,twist ,change direction and not cut worth a dam (depending on how loose the tention is) (and it does not have be very loose to act up.   Sorry for the long wind but trying to cover all the bases the best I can ! Carl

[browders]

I have resisted  adding this to my saw, primarily because I've read from others that sometimes they will strip the threads. Now that the arthritis in my hands is becoming more pronounced, I'm thinking this might be a good idea. 

[Multifasited]

It is my firm belief ,positioning ,by what ever means you decide ,will assure proper and repeatable  pressure on the clamp assembly ,with out the over tightening problem . Saves those fingers and hands a lot of grief .If you find a better or easier way let us know! Good luck Carl

[amazingkevin]

Sooo much to learn but thats what the ssv does best ,the been there done that pay off big in all ways here.I love these info talks! very relaxing as were all in this together!

[Kepy]

Will have to try that as my arthritic fingers get too sore now for scrolling very long.

[heppnerguy]

if you don't absolutely need to,  DON'T USE THIS KNOB.  I firmly believe you are causing your own problems here. You will be continually replaceing those stripped threads that you do not have to do if you jus tuse the other suggestions above.  (and I thought you learned from your previous mistake with these ad on knobs) you are a lot like me, I guess. I am a little set in my ways

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Multifasited]

 (IT is What it is.Unless, You change IT) ,Changes, require control ,options Only ,It's worth, is your decision !Making an omlet requires breaking some Eggs ! I can't say what's best for YOU ,or anybody else .