Zero Clearance Insert

[oldhudson]

Zero clearance inserts are used quite often with table saws but I've not seen or heard of folks using them for scrolling. I'm not familar with saws other than my Delta so maybe that's why it never comes up. Changing blades on the Delta requires a funky "allen" or hex wrench. You need to really see the lower clamp to install a new blade so the opening requires a insert plate. Here's what mine looks like.

 

To minimize tear-out on stock I've made a couple of ZCI's. One from a masonite material and one from cedar. see pics.

I wondered if others were using them or if they don't see a need or if their saws have smaller table openings?

 

Thanks for reading and have a good day.

 

[heppnerguy]

Teh DeWalt 788 has a much smaller opening but I too have made a zero clearance table one time, for some really delicate cutting i was doing. I have found it was really not needed for my saw so I no longer use it.  With the opening that your saw has, I can see a real need to do what you have done.  Good work, At one time, i thought about using my zero clearance insert just to raise the portion of the blade I was cutting with, giving me a 'new' blade surface to use and doubling the life of my blades. I later found the blade prices to be reasonable enough that I abanded that idea too.

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Wilson's Woodworking]

If I am cutting smaller pieces for a project I have a piece of ½†plywood that I clamp to my table so I don’t lose the piece I am cutting thru my table insert. If I used ¾†plywood it would also work to get me up on a newer section of the blade to extend blade life. Hmmm I kind of like that idea. This means a trip to the lumber yard.     I wonder if they got a new shipment of hardwoods in???? Oh this could get expensive. Lol  

[Travis]

You might find this article interesting.  It is posted in SSV's Articles section, written by Sheila Landry.  http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles.html/_/resources/making-a-%E2%80%9Czero-clearance%E2%80%9D-plate-for-your-scroll-r52

[Multifasited]

I use milar sheets ,from my overhead projector supplies .thin flat and strong with no curve to over come .

[amazingkevin]

On that delta your going to encounter a problem .the tolerance holes are so big from the factory because you cant get the tightness need on the blade .If you can get the tightness and the hole stays the same the saws going to wear out fast .there's no way to lube the criticule points that wear out .It's the connecting link that connects the two arms in the back of the  machine.i've wore out plenty of saws like this but if you don't cut 3/4" wood alot maybe you'll be ok  for now.i drilled holes in the back of the machine to sray chain lube in but it didn't help                 7 saws later i got a dewalt

[jrpeteo]

I have one for my crapsman, made from 1/8" bb. With holes for vac system.

Pete

[LarryEA]

The newer Deltas have a thumb screw (like the Dewalts I suppose) to tighten the blades.

The blade opening on the table is small and needs no ZCInsert.

I would guess my Delta table blade opening is 1/4" wide x 1" long.

[Multifasited]

Pete, Unless your lower vac,pulls through a sealed manifold like mine the holes won't do much ,open side draw won't have any pulling effect on all those holes except what little falls through into the vac stream ,without a vac, breaker mine would scream like a banshi . A side draw only gets most of what the blade pulls down .But if it works it works ,I just don't know how!

[Multifasited]

Old hudson ,Zero clearance ,is like zero tolerance ,It's  a liberal fantasy ,Take some scotch tape leave your slot but narrow it ,narrow your blade hole to zero on 4 sides add a secon d layer ,just on your insert as you have to remove it for blade change .Now cut normally ,what ever you usually cut ,after 1/2 -1 hr .look at you zero hole ,what ever size it is now ,is as close to zero as you can get ,because of the blade bow to cause as you cut .some people favor the right some the left some push too hard and bow to one side and back as well, what ever it is will tell you alot about the way you cut push pull swing swivel .I seriously doubt any on on the forum can cut for an hour and be any where close to zero clearance . now you know what size hole to make ,if you bow more the blade will eat more ,It's a good mirror on how you really control the saw. Try it see if I'm right .

[wombatie]

I have 2, one for my DeWalt and one for my Ex21.  They are both made from Melamine and have a none slip mat glued to the bottom to stop them moving around.

 

Marg

[Multifasited]

What size is the hole in them? 

[Multifasited]

I have 2, one for my DeWalt and one for my Ex21.  They are both made from Melamine and have a none slip mat glued to the bottom to stop them moving around.

 

Marg

What size is the hole in them?

[wombatie]

I just traced the hole in the SS table and then cut that hole in the wood that I was given. I then placed the wood on the table, hole over hole and ran a pencil around the edge of the ss table and cut that out. Next I glued the none slip material on the bottom. Finished I did the same with both saws.

 

Marg

[Multifasited]

I just traced the hole in the SS table and then cut that hole in the wood that I was given. I then placed the wood on the table, hole over hole and ran a pencil around the edge of the ss table and cut that out. Next I glued the none slip material on the bottom. Finished I did the same with both saws.

 

Marg

So you did not shrink the blade hole size ,just raised the table level w/ a non slip pad and a slippery top ,that will change the blade wear up that much to new area.