Multifasited Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Blade end distortion has been a ever present frustration ,when doing a mega hole pattern ,To eliminate the 90% of the problem ,I clip the blade off 1/8" above the clamp mark on the blade ,just about where the bend always starts ,makes threading much much easier and stops blade fatique at the end from cross threading at insertion .It also helps alignment for next clamp ,being a bottom loader shorter blade also helps ,you only clamp in is area ,everything above 1/8" is problematic any way,Should work equally well to top loaders as well .Works for me hope it helps some of you too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 hum,very interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Carl, Are you saying that when you clamp your blade in your saw, the top of the blade bends slightly and this makes it difficult to thread through your drilled holes? I had this problem too, (if I am understanding your problem correctly ). I corrected the problem by adjusting the set screw opposite the thumb screw. Now i have no bends in my blade. My problem was so bad dthat when I tried spiral blades the blade would break at that point, almost as if I was cutting it with side cutters.. Just a thought for you on this matter. Dick heppnerguy Bendita 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Your lucky to have found the answer for you my spirals , even the supposed flat ones are not,That little twist seems to want to twist and bow in some kind of fashion when I clamp up ,the longer the tail the worse it gets ,the possibility that I over tighten is always there ,or that I use more tension then others but The shorter blade has helped as well bottom loading ,as long as the set screw tip is out past the clamps edge should not an issue if both top and bottom are alike .I don't have issues with straight blades ,which make me think it's the slight twist ! I will try easing off on the tightening to see if that has any impact ,I like others run a blade till it won't cut good ,so there are many many re -clamps involved . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Carl I think Dick has hit the nail on the head and sometimes you might have to take the screw out and flatten the end on a stone which will give more grip and stop the blade bending because your pushing the blade into the grub screw hole which should be flat. Roly Bendita 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) I've had the "grub screw" Roly's term loosen up and back out causing my blade to bend.A little thread lock and I'm good for a few months. Or just like Dick said. Also check both top and bottom. Edited March 8, 2014 by LarryEA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I do not have this bending of the blade ends problem with my saws but, I have cut off about 3/4" from the bottom of a dull blade to start using the teeth above the dull ones. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 I do not have this bending of the blade ends problem with my saws but, I have cut off about 3/4" from the bottom of a dull blade to start using the teeth above the dull ones. Well I bit the bullet ,may have found part of the problem ,The rotary tip on the clamps screw came out of the clamp screw and I have been unable to get it out of the clamp ,evadently ,it is woperjawed some way ,even tried to press out with opposite set screw to no avail ,got it realigned I can at least use it till parts get here ,so I ordered a new upper clamp assembly two new set screws and two new clamp screws ,Lord knows it's earned It's keep the number of times used in the years I have had the saw ,this is the first issue I have had with it ,so after they get here I will replace them all and keep the lower clamp screw for a spare ,the issue will be resolved ,the clipping does really help especially in the center of a large fret pattern .Thanks for all the input and advice ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 If i understanding correctly ...the blade goes between to set screws. one you tighten regularly when you come of of your project and into the next hole So you have the thumb screw ,and the blade in the middle and a set screw on the other side of the blade .The blade is sandwiched in between the two screws.if the set screw that you never turn is in to far causing a pocket for the blade to rest in when squeezed tight it will dis figure the blade as bent. What is needed is to turn the fixed set screw out flush with its holder .then when you tighten the blade it is like being up against a flat wall and won't bend the blade.Hope this helps. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 The swivel tip of clamping screw ,has come out of the clamping screw ,normally it pivots ,but remains connected much like the movable tip on a c-clamp It came out ,and got distorted ,and egg shaped enough that it can no longer return with the clamp screw into the hole it rides in , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) The swivel tip of clamping screw ,has come out of the clamping screw ,normally it pivots ,but remains connected much like the movable tip on a c-clamp It came out ,and got distorted ,and egg shaped enough that it can no longer return with the clamp screw into the hole it rides in , I scanned sketch ,for some reason came out crazy ,I hope it makes some kind of sense ,parts ordered ,replacing complete clamp unit upper and replacing set and clamp screw lower also. Edited March 9, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 sounds like you have it figured out. Please let us know the results of your new parts, when you get them in place. I have to say that I have not noticed that the tip of the set screw has pivoting tip.. I will now, have to go take a close look at mine. Interesting observation Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) sounds like you have it figured out. Please let us know the results of your new parts, when you get them in place. I have to say that I have not noticed that the tip of the set screw has pivoting tip.. I will now, have to go take a close look at mine. Interesting observation Dick heppnerguy The set screw does not the pivot is on the clamp screw ,you only need on one side like a C-Clamp only more precise ! The set screw only has to be wide and flat to work properly as an anvil post .The corrective slippage is at the last instant of clamping eliminating distortion of the blade from any twisting under force. Edited March 12, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 I have never clipped a blade, probably never will. My thumb screw does not have a swivel tip. I keep the 'set' screw flush, that makes the surface flat. I keep the end of the clamp screw flat. So I have a flat clamping surface on the left(set screw), flat clamping surface on the right (clamp screw). The blades are flat.... No engineering problem to fix. As for a swivel tip on clamps, thats for flex clamping on uneven surfaces. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 The set screw does not the pivot is on the clamp screw ,you only need on one side like a C-Clamp only more precise ! The set screw only has to be wide and flat to work properly as an anvil post .The corrective slippage is at the last instant of clamping eliminating distortion of the blade from any twisting under force. Sooy I meant the thumb screw when I posted..but I tookout my thumb screw and it did not have any pivot that I could see either.. strange. I don't believe I have ever seen one that does pivot..( if I am understanding your explanation ). thanks for the reply Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Dick, it depends upon which brand of saw you own, the blade screw on the EX and on the Dewalt I believe, have a pivoting tip that will turn when it's tightened against the blade. This stops the blades from bending, when the blade screw is up against the blade, which puts pressure against the set screw. The set screw has to be in the proper position also, so that when the blade screw pushes up against it, it will not be pushing the blade sideways, causing it to break. Personally, I think that it's a really good system, as long as you keep it adjusted properly and you keep the tip of the blade screw lubricated. I've never had any problems with my saw, it runs like a dream, but I do service my saw and keep it clean. All this info came with the saw, it was printed in the owners manual, their a good book to read, lots of tips. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) Ok! I took some pix of the saw as it is with the clamp screw set on the table ,you can see the hollow end w/ the hole for the tip ,that is stuck still in the clamp I inserted a thread of paper between the set screw and the stuck tip ,I hope it shows up ! I too think it is a good design ,as mentioned about non flat clamping , capabilities ,the spirals certainly apply ,even the supposed flat ends are truly not , at least none I have received ,much better but not flat ,normal wear on the threads after ,years of faithful surface ,I am sure equates to even the best design has it's limits ,thousand and thousands of hole changes effects more then the finger fatigue .Any way ,I hope the pix will show ,what I was trying to explain ,parts should be here ,in a few days ,right now ,I will just realign ,and use in it's limited capacity ,The 788 t.1 has been a great saw ,but like me has some age and hard use on it ! Been rode hard and put a way wet more than a few times. ! Clipping started as a means to and end ,before I homed in on the real issue ,I probably should have not posted ,till I had all the answers .The clipping does help when quarters are close ,in the center of a large pc. Your answers and comments kept me thinking till I found the answers so far ,and for that I am grateful sorry if I confused or lead any one down the wrong path ,My posts have never been to mis inform anyone about anything .Thanks for your patients and suggestions and comments ! PIX ALL BLURR W/TAKE SOME MORE AND POST! Ok reposted second is best still not what I would like but I think you get the idea ! Edited March 12, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I think i probably understand what you were saying better now. The photo helps. I could not see that the tip was another piece to my thumb screw. I too have a DeWalt 788 and when I took out my thumb screw it looked like a single piece, but apparently it must be inserted into the thumb screw. Does it just rotate within the hole you can see at the end of your setscrew or does it actually pivot as well ? Maybe it is terminology where I am uncertain. I am not trying to be difficult here, just trying to understand what is going on, in case it should happen to me. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Dick! You can grab the end of the tip of the clamp screw after you remove it with just your fingers and rotate the knob and the tip will remain stationary in you fingers while you can keep rotating the knob ,the tip is hollow ,the tip shaft is held in the hollow with an o-ring allowing it to rotate ,but it rotates stays and straight and true to 90 degrees to the threaded shaft because there is no ball connection like a c-clamp ,and rides on aparalell pivoting shaft internal in the clamp screw held in place by the oring mini sleeve . It is a pretty precision piece of work ,hard to see this capibility with the naked eye ! By the way ,I was able to press out the offending monkeyed up tip on the old clamp and install new set screw and new clamp screw ,I was concerned, that doing so would distroy the threads for the set screw ,but I was able to retap damaged threads and with lock tight the stationary position of the set screw shoul dnot effect the the useability of that assembly for a spare . I really can't see much need as the new one should last longer than my interest in scrolling ,but who knows It's here and ready ,I hope that all made sense Phew ! long winded ,slow typer ,takes time ! Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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