Puzzle Images

[Travis]

So I decided I'd try my hand at a tray puzzle for my son. I was looking around for images to use and found a great resource for puzzle makers. When looking for images, look for computer wallpaper. Often these images are fairly large with decent resolution. They also have a really cool design with a collage of images. A lot of licensed products have their own wallpaper for their fans/customers. Things like movies, popular video games, books, cartoons, celebrities, cars, motorcycles, etc. Granted you won't be able to sell these puzzles because of copyright issues, but you can certainly print them out for yourself and make a puzzle. I found a really nice one of Thomas the Tank Engine. I'm going to do one of Transformers too. I just printed them on heavy paper/cardstock (I have a laser printer at work...shhhh). Then after mounting to the wood, I give it a couple coats of clear coat to seal in the picture. I'll take some WIP pics of the tray puzzle and post them soon, but I figured you puzzle makers out there might find this useful.

[Firedkm]

What a great Idea!

[yost69]

One question for ya. I havent done but a few actual puzzles and a couple tray puzzles.

 

For the tray puzzles I just had my niece paint them as she is still young and loves making a mess .

 

But for the normal puzzles I used calendar pages with no clear on them. Anywho my question is this.

 

Do you think, since im not special and dont have a laser printer as of yet, nor access to a color laser, that if you print on inkjet paper and then clear it, that the colors will run? I have not tried it because I have a lack of ambition to print something off then do all the work then clear it only to have it look like chit when it drys. I am hoping someone has already done this and has the answer.

 

Ben

 

Wow I need spellcheck, 5 minutes typing, 10 minutes proofing and only found 15 errors.

[Barry5180]

Ben,

 

It all depends on the printer and the ink it uses. I've had some printers that no matter what I printed or what I did with the printout, the ink would run.

 

Currently I am using a Kodak all in one and it works great. If I ever get the time to try puzzles, I will print the image on matte photo paper and then attach and finish it. Hopefully this will work.

 

One other method that might work would be to decoupage the image onto the wood and then cut the puzzle once dried and set. Don't know how that would work with computer paper, but would make for interesting research.

 

barry

[Travis]

I don't think inkjet will cause too many problems. You'll definitely have to seal it after mounting to the board, though. I would stay away from excess moisture when mounting and sealing too. I would steer away from decoupage paste (Mod Podge) and PVA glue. I'm guessing the water in the glues will make the ink run a bit. So use spray adhesive to mount and spray acrylic to seal instead. Maybe your first coat of sealer should be a very think just to stick the ink together. Then the following coats can be thicker.

 

I use a heavy cardstock (110lbs) I got from the big office supply store. I use it to make games & accessories (I'm a board game geek). I bought it awhile ago, but I think it was pretty cheap. It prints pretty well and is nice and heavy. This is the first time I'm using it with puzzles, but so far it seems to work nice. I think photo paper for the inkjet tends to seal in the colors much better, though. You'll also get better color representation if you're working with photos. It tends to be more expensive, but if you're doing photo puzzles, I think that might be the way to go. Simple graphics or pictures where exact color isn't necessary, the cardstock works good enough.

 

This is purely academic. I don't have any real experience with using inkjet printouts for puzzles. If you try it out, I'd love to hear how it works out for you.

[Firedkm]

Ben, All my puzzles are printed on Kodak paper with a hp ink jet printer. I use spray adhesive for now (I want to get a dry mount press soon) and use a triple thick glaze on top of the puzzle. I have never had any ink run using this method. The only time the ink runs on me is if my sweat drops down onto the picture before I seal it.

[Barry5180]

I'll probably be in the craft store over the next couple of days so I'll check out some decoupage paste and give it a shot. I'll report back whatever I find.

 

Barry

[Christina]

This is a great idea Travis. I don't have access to a laser printer either. And I've not attempted a puzzle of any kind yet.

 

But I have used my ink jet printers for various craft project. I just us a clear acrylic spray.............very fine mist.............and put a think layer on and let it dry really well. I've not had any trouble with the ink running. I've had different printers over the years too..............Lexmark, Canon, etc... And it seems to work all the same. As long as you hold the can way away so it's a really fine mist and put it on thin...........the ink doesn't run. At least it didn't for me lol.

 

I'd try it a few times on some practice pieces. Then I would think using the spray adhesive would work well.

Christina

[yost69]

Ok another question.

 

What grit paper do you use in between coats of clear?

 

I have sprayed 2 light coats on it and no running but am not sure what to do now. I use 1500 for the between coats on the rifle stocks that i refinish do you think this will work on the puzzle also?

 

Ben

[Travis]

I don't usually sand between coats. But if I was, maybe a quick once-over with some fine steel wool. You could also use a paper bag or some burlap. I'm guessing 1500 sandpaper would be OK too since its so smooth. I wouldn't get too carried away with it though. You don't want to hurt the image.

[Firedkm]

I have never used sand paper to sand the image. I would be afraid to damage the image. If you spray properly you should not have to sand it down imho.

[yost69]

Ok, lets say hypothetically speaking someone doesnt know what they are doing to spray a nice coat of poly. And the coat is ummm, my guess is dirty? not sure but it is rough as a corn cob. Any pointers on spraying a smooth finish? Am I supposed to be using poly or somthing else?

 

I have sprayed one very very thin coat, let it dry to the touch about 1/2 hour. Then sprayed the 2nd. I dont want to keep spraying cause in my experience it doesnt get smoother until you do something with it. Now it may be different on this matter but with some of the stuff i do if you dont sand in between coats you get tiny little bubble looking things in between coats that you cant get out unless you go back down to the layer they are on.

 

Oh one more thing, i am using spray poly in a can, not a hvlp system. Maybe that is the problem? If it is I got a devilbiss gun used to use to paint cars, will that work better?

 

 

Thanks for any input

 

Ben

[Travis]

I use the spray can too. The professional sprayer would be too much work IMO (just the cleanup alone makes me cringe). I use an acrylic spray in a can. I like acrylic because the fumes won't choke you too bad and I know that it will never react with any materials. I use whatever I find that's cheap. Krylon works well, Deft, or whatever knockoff brand I can find.

 

One thing to make sure is that there's not much dust blowing about. I don't get too carried away with making a clean environment. I'll even spray outside if the wind isn't blowing too hard. If you have an air compressor, you can blow off any dust that may be on your project. Or you can use the canned air they use for computers. Anyway, make sure the nozzle is clean on your spraycan. You can test spray and check to make sure it's not sputtering. If it comes out in a nice fine mist, I think you're OK.

 

As far as spraying your picture. I wouldn't buff/sand the first layer. That thin layer is only to seal in the ink. There isn't enough film to handle any sandpaper or steel wool and you'd ruin your picture. Your next layer can be thicker. This layer can be sanded/buffed lightly if you choose. Basically you're only there to knock off the dust nibs and high points. I wouldn't strive for a glass finish. Then I'd spray another coat after the sanding/buffing.

 

Quite honestly, a little texture to the puzzle surface is kinda nice. It feels good in the fingers and when putting the puzzle together.

[yost69]

Well +1 for me. I did spray outside. lol. I think i have a grasp on the situation now. I am wondering how to make it a glass finish because that is what i am used to doing. But now i know. i think i will run a piece of 1500 across it and then put the final coat on. The second coat is a normal coat as for thickness so i shouldnt have a problem. I hope.

 

I have never been able to do the steel wool thing. My dad swears by it rather than sand paper but i just end up leaving little steel hairs all over the project which are a pain to get rid of all of them.

 

Ben

[yost69]

Ben, All my puzzles are printed on Kodak paper with a hp ink jet printer. I use spray adhesive for now (I want to get a dry mount press soon) and use a triple thick glaze on top of the puzzle. I have never had any ink run using this method. The only time the ink runs on me is if my sweat drops down onto the picture before I seal it.

 

I have never used the Triple Thick Glaze. Does it just take one coat like it says? do you have to sand it? can you buy it at lowes?

 

Ben

[Firedkm]

Ben I have never found it at Lowes or Home Depot. I do find it at the craft stores like Michaels or A C Moore. As far as one coat, it all depends.....I will sometimes put a second one on. If i do I use super fine steel wool. I will ten wipe it down with a cheese cloth and blow it with air from the compressor before putting the second coat on.

[yost69]

I have a miceals about 30 miles from me and a A.C. moore about 30 miles the other direction from me so i am going to go check them out. I have heard alot of comments on this stuff on some other boards i just thought they were talking about a poly.

 

Excuse me while i pull my head out of my a**.

 

Now i know what it means i am going to give it a shot.

 

Ben