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sprile blades


john shankel

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John I've also noticed that you have to push them a bit harder which is why they get hard to control A spiral blade should not be pushed at all merely steered in the direction you want it to cut, of course there is always going to be some pressure on it but you'll find the less the better, one other thing I've noticed is there will be a lot more fuzzies when your blade gets dull as its not cutting clean. So these are some things to look for and if I may quote Pete they are only 30 cents a piece throw them away. Why are you using spirals John? not that there is anything wrong with it but when you first learn you generally start with straight blades so much easier.

Not criticizing your decision I was only curious maybe some of the other member could comment on this I personally find it strange. All the best John with your new hobby and keep the questions comming

.../Hans

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John , There is a difinite Love Hate relationship with spiral blades .Like some feel about thier saws, kind of my way or the hyw.,Probabaly more has been written here and other forums about apiral blade than any other ,check the older posts .The issue here really is the design of the blade ,basically it is a standard blade that is twisted evenlly locate a point in a at every point on the compass ,making it able to cut in every direction ,always cutting on three sides at once ,regulated by the direction of force applied ,The major difference in the life of the spiral is due to this twisting action of the teeth to create this type of blade the depth of the GULET the part of the blade that removes the cut wood is reduced to almost nothing in comparison to the same size straight blade ,ADD to that the fact that the same blade is cutting MORE wood ,that twisting adds Width to the blade as well as removing the GULLET depth and is now cutting of three sides at once the Blade is subject to more Wear and Heat than any standard blade Thus shorter life (HINT ,I use a candle touched to the moving blade to help the release and extend the cutting process ) Everbodies is correct ,the dulling of teeth has the effects mentioned ,and blade replacement is the only cure .slowing down the speed and pressure ,and for me a candle really help ,NO Matter what saw you use the Blade is the Boss!!! NOT you You are mearly a guidence system .How well you do your job has more to do with the life of the blade than anything else Lube really helps the release of sawdust on any blade ,if you doubt it try it !When You understand why the spiral is different and follow the rules related ,They work great and have a very useful place  ,in you arsonal ,they are not for everything ,although with pactice ,they can do a lot more the Many think !JMHO and I use them a lot .

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well for starter's i am using them for a pattern that was made for me , no i am not new to scrolling, just spiral blade's , this pattern has many unnatural shapes, i will post it when i am done, slow going..what is the best speed on the machine i should use , seems to cut better faster, but not the control issue. and i have been changing them when they start to wounder too much. I am using  #3, and a # 3/0 what if any comments abought this is helpfull ...thanks for the replies given so far :)

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What thickness of wood are you cutting? If you are trying to cut one piece of 1/8" material you will have all kinds of control problems because of the agressive nature of the spirals. I try to cut at least 3/8". Put some scrap wood underneath or stack a few up, tape them together, to get more than one finished item. I use a pretty fast speed on the machine and a pretty slow feed rate....easy does it.

Pete

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I agree with the thickness suggestion, try for a minimum of 1/4".  They are notorious for tear out on the bottom, so a sacrificial 1/8" sheet on the bottom on the stack is a good idea.I use mine when I have a project with a lot of veining. I saw an add somewhere for spiral blades with flat ends, whicih I thinnk might help them survive a little longer.

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