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What do you wish someone would have told you when you started?


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Hi guys and gals.  I am new to the scrolling crowd.  I am looking for any and all advice that you wish someone would have told you when you started out(blade sizes, wood thickness, starter patterns, etc).  Thanks in advance.

 

James

Hi James, I'm Roy from Scotland. You're looking for advice???, well you've chosen the right place for that. You won't need an encyclopaedia, you'll get all the information you need here,and more, just ask and an answer will come from some corner of the world. What's more you will have a whole load of new friends, and some fun. So come on in James, and most importantly ENJOY yourself. If you've got some spare CASH, our expert, Amazing Kevin, (and he is amazing), will show you how to turn DOLLAR BILLS into jigsaws, now that is amazing. WELCOME James. :cool:  :cool: move your question to the introduction section and everyone will see it. James.

Rob Roy.

Edited by Rob Roy
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James ole pal, good buddy. Welcome !!  When I started scrolling I didn't know about the Village or

any other scrollers. I just jumped in.

You have an advantage and by starting here.

I'm a proponent of searching. There is a search panel in the upper right.

Start in General Scroll Sawing and enter "blades for new scrollers". See what comes up.

Whatever you search for most likely has been covered a time or two.

Wood thickness is by choice but generally not more than 3/4 inch.  Many scrollers use

Baltic Birch plywood (stackable). Starter patterns are your choice, again, do a search in

Patterns and New pattern anouncement,,, etc.

We love to see especially the first one.

 

Larry

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Welcome James. Ask and you'll have more helpful answers than you know what to do with!!

I would say that in addition to asking about blades, patterns, wood and so forth, if you haven't gotten a machine yet, try as many as you can before you buy!! Find the one that suits you and either get it then or start saving up for it.

I started in Sep of 2012 with a 16" 2 speed dremel scroll saw. Then in June of 2013 I received my Excaliber 21", and boy did I wish I had gotten it sooner. I was able to do some decent stuff on the Dremel, but the Excaliber made it so much easier to do.

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Welcome James. Ask and you'll have more helpful answers than you know what to do with!!

I would say that in addition to asking about blades, patterns, wood and so forth, if you haven't gotten a machine yet, try as many as you can before you buy!! Find the one that suits you and either get it then or start saving up for it.

I started in Sep of 2012 with a 16" 2 speed dremel scroll saw. Then in June of 2013 I received my Excaliber 21", and boy did I wish I had gotten it sooner. I was able to do some decent stuff on the Dremel, but the Excaliber made it so much easier to do.

I purchased a Dremel like that 20 years ago and used the p@## out of it. I have a small Hegner now but still using the Dremel for inlay even after all these years. It is a machine that just won't die. Although I have done some rebuild and repair on it. :)

James the one thing you should know is you’re only limited by your own imagination. Which means I am extremely handicapped in these regards? :oops: :oops:  

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Hi James - there really is something special that I'm sure we all remember about starting with scrollin'. It's pretty cool for you really...you've just walked into the most experienced, and talent- filled village you could ever imagine. The residents here are always willing to lend a hand, and I can assure you that you will learn as much as you can ask or take-in.

Kindest Regards, (and hope to see some of your work as you progress)

Nick (East Coast -UK)

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Welcome James .Do project that interest you the most.Thin wood cut fast and easy but are harder to control.I started most of my  scrolling in 3/4" plywood.I you don't like sanding too much scroll reverse blades leave the top and bottom of your project virtually sanding free........having a foot pedal on off switch save a lot of time . Keep your blades guitar string tight and check offen. :)

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Hi James welcome to the Village.  I'm Marg from Australia.  2 things I had to learn the hard way.  Always start cutting the hardest part first that way if it breaks or you mess up a lot you haven't wasted too much time.  Secondly, do not drill all of the holes at once, because once again if it breaks or you mess up a lot you have not wasted all of the wood that you were using.

 

Marg.

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i have always felt the best thing I discovered was purchasing my saw blades on line and not from the big box stores. What a difference that made. Also got rid of the 'hold down device on my saw, which aloud my so much more freedom and room to work on my  things. You can do a lot on a cheaper saw ($100) but craigslist is filled with some bargains on 'better saws" at a good price. go get em, tiger. and log on often so we can get to know you and visa versa

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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My advice is to use good Blades like Olson of Flying Dutchman, There isn't much difference between them and the cheaper ones. As for Wood I like I/4 in oak plywood it makes a much better  job but does cost about 1/3 more, From simple to almost impossible,and for the Saw get the best that your budget will allow  And for advice you are all ready there.

 

IK.

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My first scrolling was in the late 60's so there wasn't a lot of info available.  It was a very much trial and error.  Started out with a Delta scrolling jigsaw 24".  I used that saw for 30 yrs.  It was a workhorse but rather hard on blades.

If you get the chance to attend one of the Scrolling conventions be sure to do so.  You will meet a lot of great people and can learn a lot.  Attended my first scrollsaw picnic around 20 yrs ago and met the guys from Seyco.  A lot of the attendees have fallen by the wayside but it was great experience.  It actually was a picnic as they had a covered dish lunch.

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I am only famiiar with the EX21 and the DW788 but I would remove the wood hold down above the table and the blade guard below the table.  Tighten your thumb screw snug but they do not have to be cranked down on hard or over a period of time you will either strip the threads on the thumb screws or in the clamps.  On the EX21 always make sure the bottom of the top arm is parrellel to the table.

 

Another tip - when starting with a new set of a dozen blades I dip each end in denatured alcohol and wipe dry with a cloth and then when getting ready to use each blade I lightly rub the ends with 220 grit sandpaper.  This process removes any oil residue from the packing/shipping process and will avoid or delay possible slippage in use and the need to clean the end of the set screw and thumb screw.

 

And yet one more - can you tell where my issues were when I started scrolling? - use Blue Loctite on the set screw so it does not change position.  Generally the set screw should either be flush with the inside face of the clamp or just slightly extending into the inside face of the clamp (1/4 turn).  To determine flush since I cannot see into the clamp well, I have a thin please of metal I put inside the clamp faces and then tighten it to the set screw clamp face with the thumb screw.  I can then tighten my set screw and know when it is flush, release the thumb screw, the piece of metal drops out, and I can give the set screw another 1/4 turn if I want.  I use flush on the set screw although I believe the EX21 manual recommends slightly protruding past the inside clamp face.  If you ever loosen or remove the set screw you need to reapply the Blue Loctite.

Edited by Doug
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