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First ‘real’ project. Learned a bit in corners, blade tension and such. Using Olsen #7 crown tooth blades. My arm release mechanism made the job much easier with all the holes. Fun stuff!

I just finished cutting this today. I am excited because it is the third most difficult cutting I have made in all my scrolling years. It is a @Jim Blume pattern, (thanks Jim), and I copied the way I cut from a person named Elke Sachs Kohon Wiks. If I got that wrong, I apologize. It is not finished, it will have a flat-black backer and Deft semi-gloss lacquer. I cannot finish it in my house, the fumes are really bad for my wife. Have to wait for warmer weather to finish outside. It was a challenge, I used Pegas #1 Skip, Pegas #1 Modified Geometry, 3/0 FD New Spiral, blades. Reason why it is nice to have two scroll saws if you can. I was rolling back and forth between my two saws.

Here is the Hummingbird I cut for my spouse for Christmas. The frame was what I liked the most. The birdhouse was for my Granddaughters. They love to fish with me and love the dock I built them so I added a birdhouse to it.

A custom request. The pattern is by Gayle at the Scroll Saw Cafe. I used 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood stacked two high 12" x 12". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. The finish is three coats Spray Lacquer Clear Satin with a light sanding between coats. Of course, framed at ArtCrafters. Comments welcome.

Seems like over the past few months I get started on something and then go "squirrel " and start something new without finishing the first one. So with the new year I've set out to finishing all the started things before starting new ones. Here's 2 of them. The Deer (2 pics) one is in the window to show the "stained glass "affect. It cut from ⅛ ply with a red oak frame and acrylic for the color areas The 2nd is a sun catcher for my daughter who is a Zelda fan. It's cut from ⅛ maple with acrylic in the middle. It looks the same from both sides. Anyhow, thanks for looking, back to the shop......

Hummingbird hovering over Flower. Pattern designer - @FrankEV. Thank you. Woods used -Purpleheart, orange osage, aromatic cedar, Canarywood, lacewood, poplar, maple, wenge. Mounted on live edge Elm. Walrus oil finish. Aprox 9"x7. There is a before finish and after finish. I love putting the finish on to see the colours pop!

Well a double selfie really. Photo and cutting. as normal all recycled wood. Pegas #3 blade

I adapted a photo of a Mallard Duck in Flight to create an 11 ¼” x 10 ¼” Intarsia pattern. Wood used: Aspen, Basswood, Orange Osage, Roasted Birch, Sapele, Yellowheart, and Wenge. Very accurate cutting is needed to get a good fit of the many small parts, especially in the wings. To enhance the piece, I used dye to color Aspen for the Green and Blue areas. For my version I also added some dark shading to match the image using an Airbrush. Backer is 1/8” thick BB Ply and the completed Assembly was protected with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Original Photo. My version! Comments and critiques welcome. I will post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

This is a Sue Mey pattern I ran across in my patterns as I was looking for something to cut for my dear wife. I cut is from 1/8 inch BB Ply using a #1 Pegas spiral blade. I then painted it and made a backer board using 1/4 BB ply. I used Deft semi gloss spray finish. One of the only things I painted and was happy with it. It looks way better than it does in the photo. I took it in the evening front room light. Dick heppnerguy

A number of years ago my first grandson Cedric was stillborn. I put off making an urn for him because I originally wanted to turn one on the lathe but my skill level on the lathe has never progressed enough to do the project justice. In the meantime I picked up scrolling and came up with this for his ashes. It is made of Birch and Walnut. I am pleased with the result.

Bamboo is a material that I love for cutting when I can get it. I loved this Leopard pattern, of which I can not remember who designed it but I would love to that the author of it for making it available. The bamboo is about 3/8 thick and cuts very nicely with no fuzzies from drilling of cutting. I cut it with a #1 Pegas spiral blade because it goes so much quicker and a lot easier to do than a straight blade. I sprayed it with 3 layers of Deft semi gloss. I am constantly looking for somewhere to purchase the Bamboo wood at the size and thickness I want to use. It seems to be a little difficult to find around Phoenix but I know it has to be here waiting for me to make a purchase. I used a 1/4 inch BB Ply for the backer board. I cut this a couple of weeks ago but have not gotten around to taking a photo and posting it until now. Dick heppnerguy

This is a Charles Hand design. Cut in 1/8” Baltic Birch plywood. Hobby Lobby frames.

He does this for me daily. What an awesome Lord we serve.

Just finished this. It is to go with a previous one I did some time ago. I have two more I am going to try eventually. I tried some new things this time. I cut the white and removed the pattern from those pieces but left the pattern on the rest of the picture. Sprayed the white pieces. Last time, I hand-painted them. This worked well and was much easier and faster.

A wedding gift for some awesome clients and friends. It really is square. I have a hard time getting a good picture of a picture. Fame is walnut. Fret work is 1/8" baltic birch with a 1/4" walnut plywood backer.

Latest piece done. Segmentation Koi bowl. I used 3/4" Poplar for two layers and 1/2" Maple for the third layer. Black is Osmo finish. Colours are acrylic paints. Finished with triple glaze gloss. Pattern is from an old Creative Woodworks magazine. Pattern designer is Deborah Nicholson. Thank you @Denny Knappenfor providing it to me. Original pattern is 12" diameter. This is reduced to 8"diameter.

It is a long time since I cut a Wordart. Designed lots but next week our club is going to review the library at our club. It is a really great resource and was started by my dear friend who passed away a couple of years ago. For all the work he did for the club and especially the formation of the library it was named the "Mack Cameron Memorial Library". I have the privilege of creating the sign for the library to be presented at this meeting. PS: If anyone was a pen turner, you may remember Mack on all the pen forums as he was a real avid pen turner.

I adapted a winter scene photo of a Chickadee to create a 10” x 10” Intarsia pattern. This pattern requires very accurate cutting to get a good fit-up. Wood used: Aspen, Basswood, Costa Rica Mahogany, Mahogony, and Wenge. Dye was applied to Aspen for the Light Grey areas. I used a 5/8” thick Premium Pine Project panel from Lowes for the free form plaque type backer. The backer perimeter edge was cut at a 4-degree bevel and then a router was used to round-over the top edge using a 1/8” round-over bit. The completed assembly was protected with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Comments and critiques welcome. I will post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

I know I posted these many times, but we have new members. Another "Wedding Rings" completed project. The designer is unknown. I used 1/2" Cherry. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3 MGT blades and Pegas #1 MGT blades on the letters and numbers. Finished with two coats spray Shellac and sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Been out of it and just recently rebuilt my work area. This is what I've done. I'm going to trim the minute hands on one of the clocks for sure

I stumbled upon a 'Star Wars' pic that has Peanuts characters as protagonists. I decided to do the pic, but to add a little twist: I made a diorama. Everything was done with hand tools, a Ryoba, a fretsaw with a #3 blade, sanding paper. The only power tool I used was a jigsaw to cut the hole for the 'window'. Even the slot for Snoopy was cut with the fretsaw. Some build pics:

Something for when we have little tikes over. This was a fun project. Although it’s much bigger than I expected. Everything was cut on the scrollsaw with the exception of the rockers, they were cut on bandsaw.

Thanks to @Denny Knappen for helping locate a pattern I finally made one.. then something bad or good happen depending on how you look at things.. lets just say.. I showed my wife and then she said... Hey, I have a great idea for this.. Any husband knows they're in trouble after those words come out.. SO... my daughter is going to be getting married pretty soon and they're in the wedding planning stage... I maybe should have waited a couple years to make this or at least show it to anyone, LOL... Little did I know that they was looking for ideas for table centerpieces for the reception.. now you know what I get to make a lot of now.. my reason for saying good or bad idea to show them... I made a few so far but really only sanded and dipped one in danish oil.. I so far made two out of spalted maple and one from cherry and one from walnut.. they cut really quite fast and easy to make which is good.. most of the other wedding things I make are pretty complex and take at least an hour or more and this can be cut in maybe 15 - 20 minutes.. I haven't tried stack cutting but that is also an option. As shown in the photo I've been playing around with mixing up the wood species to give off some contrast etc.. Probably going to have to make about 20? no idea yet as I have no clue how many tables will be needed.. she's just doing a smaller wedding maybe 150 - 200 people.. I don't know if Denny glues his together or not? I haven't done so and am hoping to not glue them as once we're done I may put them online to sell with the option to laser engrave the names etc. onto them... otherwise what are we going to do with 20+ of these.. another option maybe we could give one away to whomever is at said table as a competition or something.. no idea yet but selling with laser engrave option is something I had in mind once done with them. One nice thing about not gluing them is they breakdown quite easy and take up very little space.. plus can mix and match however you like with the wood species..

Not bragging about this simple pattern just showing it nearly finished steve good download took me a bit over an hour to mill down hard maple to 1/4 inch and cut pattern out im getting a little better at selecting blades used a 2 blade and had no problems even on some tight turns I'll stack cut 2 more tomorrow or this week when it's warm enough to get out there I will spray lacquer from rattle can after red paint cures by tomorrow Simple and quick and I'm having fun

Scrolled this for my grand daughter who is an avid Taylor Swift fan. My second completed project for my Pegas scroll saw. The first was some stick people. I used spiral blades as the project was to large for my scroll saw. I have to say it was a learning experience. The pattern was by Bobbie Riggs.

For my daughters next fundraiser at school I'm making a load of these stick figure pieces ive made 100's of them in the past mostly with the bandsaw still need sanding and some need floppy ears to be attached last years fundraiser was a huge success with the birdhouses and feeders she sold every unit I hope she sells a lot of them to staff as I told her I can make as many as she needs for the actual sale normally I trace them onto wood but this time I glued paper pattern so everyone of them is same to mix and match species Spanish cedar walnut poplar so far will use sapele and cherry as I move along she said 36 sets would be fine as I'm making her some other things like planters also since it's first week of may sale msde 18 sets so far ina couple of days but I know sanding will take some time snd my scraps are building rapidly i I did not rummage through scraps for these just lazy but all scrolling projects in future will first be sought after from scraps first if possible

I adapted original Stained Glass Art by Jillian Sawyer to create a 99 piece, 10” x 15” pattern. Wood used: Aspen, Cedar, Orange Osage, Padauk, Poplar, Roasted Birch, Sapele, Yellowheart, and Wenge. Wood used for leaves and stems was enhanced with Green Dye and the Butterfly wing veins were highlighted with a black sharpie. Assembly is mounted on a 1/8” thick BB Ply backer and finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Acrylic Finish. The Poppy was intended to be dark and light Red, much like how Blue was use in the original art. My choice to use Cedar wood for the light Red was poor with the color being more Brown than Red. This was not apparent to me until I brought the Butterfly assembly against the flower assembly. Although this should not have been necessary, but since assembly was too far complete, I found it necessary to improve the Cedar with Red Dye. Comments and critiques allways welcome.

Hey kids, it's been a while... I hope everyone is doing well. I stepped into my shop yesterday for the first time since September. It felt good to get back into the groove again. Finished up 7 puzzles and a couple of key/leash racks this morning. I received acceptance to my best 1 day event each year which is at the end of April so I need to get 100-150 puzzles and racks cut to be ready. Iggy

I finished cutting this wood-art piece on my scroll saw today. 1200 cuts. What was I thinking when I started this monster? Depicts an old mining town and railroad.

"Batman" 60 x 85cm, backer board 6mm, Batman 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #1 blade. A4 sheet for size. 4 months on and off, 100+ hours, never again. Looks absolutely amazing, though.

The FB February/March PAM is a series of eight Umbrella Girl patterns provided by Bob Beaupre. Entries can be one or more of the eight. You can find many finished versions Umbrella Girl Intarsia on Pinterest and I happen to run across a version of Number 7 by a Mehmet Biçer. Although the subject is not particularly interesting to me, after seeing Mehmet’s version I decided I would make only one and I also chose to do number 7. I used the photo his as guide for my presentation. I resized the patten slightly to fit a 9 3/4” x 11 3/4’ oval. Wood I used: Aspen, Basswood, Blue Pine (5/8” thick for Oval), Cherry, Mahogany, Purpleheart, Wenge, and Yellowheart. The project was an easy cut but cutting the hat gave me fits (pun intended) during fit-up. That damn hard Purpleheart…you get my drift! The finish is multiple coats of rattle can spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. This is the image of the biece by Mehmet. Comments and critiques are always welcome.

I adapted a free image of a metal wall hanging to create a nom 10 ½” x 14” Intarsia pattern. Wood used: Aspen, Basswood, Poplar (textured with a wire wheel and enhanced with Green Acrylic paint applied with an Air Brush), Padauk, Walnut, Wenge, Yellowheart, and a Tan mystery wood for the island. The backer is a nominal 5/8” thick Premium Pine panel that was lightly painted using an Air Brush to create a sea to sky background while allowing some of the strong Pine grain to show through. The rails of the Walnut fixed frame are 1 ½” wide forming a 15” x 19” panel. Finish is rattle can spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Comments and critiques are always welcome. EDIT 2: Yep the sun WAS in the water!!!!! Did not see it until I looked at the original photo with this post. The glue had not curred fully and I was able to remove the sun completely without much visable damage to the background. I'll be deleting the sun from the pattern. With my interpretation of the Island, I feel it is no longer needed. Kind of looked wrong even without the colored background.

Hi I would like too thank don in Brookland on for making a pattern for me for this piece,again thanks very much, my friend was delighted with it

Here's a pattern for you. You can use as much or as little of the detail as you are comfortable with . Show me the finished piece if you cut this one. Kris Martinson

BTW,this is probably the only place someone will ask for a close-up of your crack.

One of Steve good downloads its some segment work and I won't be doing anything this small again my fingers don't like it I used plastic eyes and nose as I have a lot from the layered animals I make i I found some upholstery nails and they looked ok so I made them the buttons its not finished yet still need to sand base and cover sides to smooth a bit and then spray some lacquer Here's where I'm at It's rare I use paint but I took a paint pen and made the tie red it's sapele and hard maple used a 2/0 blade for it and cut the sides with a 5 ine Pegas one flying dutchman

Heres what I been working on

So, my Hegner purrs like a kitten with just a blade, but when cutting it can get some vibration, not enough to mess with the magnifier light attached to the saw. The saw was bolted to the floor with a foam floor mat for padding. A little aside. I'd have problems with my washing machine walking off the leveling block, a couple of years ago I used a worn out sanding sponge for a block and haven't had a problem since. Last night, because I had to move the saw anyway, I set each of the legs on their own pad. Much less vibration. The sanding blocks roughness keeps the blocks from walking on both the floor and the legs. Only time will tell if this is a long term fix, but I wanted to share the idea.

Last year I started to make boxes, I try to to make something unusual or add elements such as hidden opening mechanism. And here is my new box, it is book shaped. I thought if it is a book, so it should be the the most recognizable book, so I chose the Bible. Project size is 4,5 x 6 x 1,8 inches. Pattern includes 2 variants: A) without stoppers: you can pull out the inner part of the box B) with stoppers: the length to which the inner part of the box can be pulled out is limited Step by step video instruction Holy Bible box pattern

Wasn’t sure where to put this, so….. One of the things with the Bauer 22” saw is the arm pin being so far back. Some I’ve heard use a 2x4 to support it. I like to make gadgets, so here’s my crude set up. Have a ‘cleaner’ one in the works, but this is what I had on hand to play with to get the idea a visual. IMG_6515.mov

I received the Bauer for Christmas. Now the first thing I will say is that this thing is heavy at 75 pounds. It is packaged extremely well and should survive even the most careless UPS driver. Setup consists of taking it out of the box and plugging it in, that's it. I've got about 10 hours of use on it and it's a great saw. I did have to adjust the set screws in the blade clamp slightly to get a better blade alignment but that was a two minute fix. I did not bolt it down yet but have virtually no vibration thanks to the weight of the saw. If I had to have any complaint at all it would be the distance to the arm release pin. I am 6'2" tall and have long arms but the arm release pin is about 3 feet away when sitting in front of the saw. That's a stretch even for me. Someone did a youtube video on making a pin release arm to attach to the saw to make it easier. Sorry, but I can't remember where I saw it. I had a DW788 for years and I consider the Bauer an upgrade. Bigger table, tilting head, heavier, and yes, I feel less vibration. Only time will tell what the durability is like, but the Bauer line is a big improvement over the Central Machinery and Hercules tool lines. This is the same saw as the Rikon. If you're looking for a new saw but don't want to spend a ton of money, I don't think you can go wrong with this.

A drum sander is only going to remove a few thousands of an inch at a time. If you are looking to remove 1/2 inch, or 500 thousandths, you will be pushing a board through that sander for a long time. There will also be a phenomenal amount of dust generated. A planer is what you need for this task.

I got a small price of Paduak from ocooch hardwoods just to try it out it didn’t cut any harder that birch plywood does it need some kind of finish or is the bare wood ok

I think we've got two different conversations going here.. One is actual backers for finished products to complement the cutting The other is a backer that you put on the back as a sacrificial piece to help from tearout etc.. when cutting thin fretwork stock that you only need one finished piece and rather than using another piece of wood that you could use for other projects why not cut something that you would be throwing out anyway such as cardboard... I think this is what Ray is asking about? I personally have always stack cut anyway as usually I'm in production mode and usually find a buyer for 1,2,3 or 4 more anyway.. As for backers to complete the project with a contrasting piece to enhance the details of the cutting I've used all sorts of things from colored paper, foam sheets, poster board, plywood of another species of wood, hardboard, mirror, and gosh dang near anything that I can fasten to the back and looks good..

I tossed mine 20 years ago. Not needed.

Removed them from every scroll saw I've had before I even plug it in.

Spent most of the day sorting, storing, amalgamating and yes!!! throwing out!!! I don't have a before. The last two are the after!

I think a lot would depend on where you're trying to sell at and also how are they packaged if they are.. All of my ornaments starting priced at $15.97 + shipping ( I sell online so shipping is a factor for me ).. I also package every ornament in a gift box.. so they're ready to give as a gift if the customer is purchasing it as a gift.. if not the box gives a bit more padding for packaging in the mail as the gift boxes are cotton filled too. Shipping is usually right around $4 - 5 for ground advantage.. so they're spending a total of around $20 some of my ornaments are double layered so they're priced closer to $18.97 + shipping and then adding any type of personalized or custom design is yet more money.. I sell a lot of them too and being priced higher like this allows me to be able to run a sale, or do bulk / wholesale orders which is really the larger part of my income.. The lowest I will sell a bulk order is $10 each.. for a pretty basic design..and goes up from there.. Selling at a craft show or farmers market.. I'd probably price things similar to the others saying $10 - 12 if there is no gift box etc.. I just think the gift boxes are a must have as then if the customer does purchase they have a box to easily carry with them rather than just handing them a ornament in a bag or something.. Everyone will have a different idea of price and many times it's based on experience and the market in their particular area..

A heat gun or a hair dryer will loosen the pattern. Be carful that you don’t scorch the wood or your fingers. Also I keep a spray bottle filled with mineral spirits. Just spritz onto the pattern. Let it soak into the paper, then you can easily peel off the pattern. Ideally, you need to learn how much adhesive to spray so the pattern stays on the wood without falling off while cutting but being able to remove the pattern when done cutting. A lot of folks will apply blue painters tape before the pattern. This allows you to easily peel the tape off with the pattern.

I think you can come up with an infinite number of bowl patterns. This is my 19th, I will definitely make the 20th for a round number. Do you think I should continue making bowl patterns? Video of making project Bowl patterns