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Just finished this project. The pattern came from Sheila laundry designs. I increased the size to 125% and cut it out of cedar.

I have had this pattern for a while, I am not sure who the designer of the pattern is. I am hoping one of you might know.

I saw some pictures of crosses done like these so I had to try it. The dark one is worm eaten Chestnut, the other wood I got from a friend is worm eaten Ash. I hung them on the garage wall.

I did these in honor of the show Longmire.

Hands down the hardest thing i have done to date with my scroll sawing. I really like doing portraits

And I thought "Bob Marley and the elephants" was the name of a singing group! Nice work.

So my lion is finished. How and what do I attach as hardware to the back to be able to hang it and what do I use for attaching it to the wall? What is sturdy enough to hold so much wood both in the frame and on the wall? I have no clue and welcome any advice your generous hive mind might have!

I seem to have won 2 prizes at the fair. A donated memorial one which is the big place card thing and second place in fretwork. Thats the one that really means something as there seemed to be some pretty stiff competition. When i dropped it off there was a ton of really nice pieces being dropped off so i didnt expect much. really glad to have pros looking at my stuff and liking it, good feeling.

I'm almost finished making the wedding card box for my son's wedding this July and I thought you folks might like to see my progress. I used a pattern that was sent to me from Birchbark (thanks so much!). I printed out the pattern and took it into FedEx Office and had it enlarged on the copy machine because my son wanted it a tad larger. The original size would have been fine for wedding cards but my future daughter has other plans for it after and wanted it a tad larger. Who am I to argue with a future bride?? The box in about 14" square at the base and 13" high (I put a Coors can in one of the pics so you could judge the scale). I built the box sides using 1x12 red oak. The box is joined using a box joint that jig that I made for my cheapo router table. The top is made from 1x4 oak boards splined together, that was a first for me. I used my biscuit cutter to keep the boards aligned. All I need to do now is to stain and finish the box. I was planning to stain it darker using Min-wax Jacobean stain, but now I'm having second thoughts. When I started this project I made a test panel, so this morning I stained it and I wasn't happy how the scroll work took the stain. The scroll work seemed darker than flat surfaces and I'm sure that its all of the ins and outs make it almost impossible to wipe off the excess stain, so it appears darker. Does anyone know of an easy method of staining the piece or am I nuts for even trying to stain it?

Cut on ply that I saved from being dumped Pattern was from the library here by Grampa, not sure about the Bob Marley pattern it was in my files with no name .

You're hired as my communications director. :-)

My newest Dewalt bought in December is just now starting to make the "noises" that my older one started out making before it got bad. If I were to take it to a Dewalt center right now, they likely would call me 2 weeks later and say "we can't find anything wrong with it"... so, I think I'll continue to use it until it's making noises and stuff all the time, then take it in (within the 1 year warranty period of course) and get it repaired/replaced. And I was just discussing this with my wife and she told me to just go ahead and buy a Hegner. Really. LOL She's been very supportive of my hobby. What a great wife huh? I told her about my partial success in repairing the one yesterday and she said "Yeah, you don't have the patience for that crap." She knows me so well. LOL She asked how much a Hegner is, I told her $1800 and when I said "That's just 3 weeks of sales at the weekly farmers market." is when she said to just buy one. Darn her and darn all of you for getting me thinking of doing this!!!

Iggy I know you have a game plan with the Dewalt saws But keep what Scrapple said about the Hegner in mind.Since you got me hooked on puzzles I have done about 25 in 3/4 oak.I will not do this with my EX I only use the EX for 1/2" and under where I have to keep feeding the blade like doing word art.But doing puzzles i only have to feed the blade 2 or 3 times per puzzle.Like the Dewalt the EX has too many moving parts.The hegner just keeps on going with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil.A good used one will cost a few dollars more than a New dewalt.

Hi Christian, Take a look at this thread that I started and then provided my findings and what I ordered. I hope this helps. Iggy

Fretwork tray designed by Steve Good cut from some rimu tongue and groove from the back of an old wardrobe and a piece of drawer side for the base. One coat of 50/50 BLO and mineral turpentine. I will give it a coat of beeswax once it is fully dry. This was fun to cut and I was able to stack cut the sides and ends which saved time. Rob

Hi Rob, Just seen your post....You did a beautiful job on your project! Well done! Bob

I'm with Heppnerguy, this is interesting info. And, yes when you think about it it does make sense. What would be good for spraying these smaller things is one of those old hand pump fly spray sprayers. Now you have to be as old as me to remember those. That is what we use to paint things when I was a kid. It worked good. But, reading the original post, this sign is for a campsite, I'm thinking the sign will only be out side and displayed when camping. Maybe it would survive a long long time with just a good outdoor finish that you can buy in a rattle can. Then you get a marble when the can is empty.

Funny you say that... I'm almost of the thinking that if I can get 500 puzzles out of each saw and the saw costs me $500, then it's "only" a buck a puzzle... which is pretty much what I pay for booth/event space... it's just another cost of doing business. If I knew someone that would want to buy a used Dewalt saw for $200 every 6-9 months that needs maintenance, then I'd be down to only $300 expense for every 500 puzzles. However, 1/2 a day or a day of downtime to perform maintenance every year really isn't that bad (assuming that once greased properly the saw lasts longer than 6-9 between maintenance cycles), especially if I take a day to do it in the winter when I don't have any events going on. FYI - I swapped out my saws this morning and used the one I worked on yesterday to cut the outline of 3 puzzles and so far, so good. We'll see if the entire saw flies apart into 812 pieces in a few days.

sherwin william A100 non tinted. thin, multiple coats for any water based/born clear finish.actually, waterbased finishes are the best for outdoor projects.theyve been on houses for years and the UV protectant is in the base, so untinted base works great. general finishes 450 is another great choice.

They are FantasticLove the top one.

I agree, simple but effective. Great work. Oh and I love the wood. Marg

I'm with Scrappile, I thought it was the name of Bob Marley's band before it became Bob Marley and the Raiders. They both look great Frank. I really love the elephants though, definitely my favorite. Well done. Marg

Simple but so effective, really like the lighter one. Thanks for the pic. Jeff

Great job on both Frank. Thanks for the pic. Jeff

Those are very nice.

Simple, Different and I like them both. Thanks for sharing them with us DW

Excellently done on both of them Frank. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

Well done Frank,love them both

They are different but very nice..well done...nice wood

Freshly cut this morning... I think this could be a popular one. Iggy

In order to remove the entire jogger arm assembly, you have to do that. I've watched the videos and depending on what you're trying to do sometimes you can keep it partially assembled. Part 3 is the best one for seeing the total teardown.

Wot? No vinyl?? Rob

Looking good Frank !

Nicely cut you did a very good job there.

Now don't start picking on my Coors can! It's a mirage that I could even find a beer can in my house. Don't get me wrong now, because I love beer as much as anyone (maybe more actually). You see I just brew my own beer and have for over 25 years. I started brewing right after Jimmy Carter made it legal!. Had I put glass of home brew in the pic you wouldn't have any frame of reference! As for MGDs, I do agree, they are a tasty brew. A few folks suggested using oil, what about using Watco Danish Oil, it comes in variety of colors or would that too soak into the end grain? Thoughts?

You certainly did a great job with the box. Only improvement I can suggest is trade that Coors for MGD,,, much better.

holy spirit in 3/4" ply with teak oil on venier of what i don't know.

Happy Birthday and many more

Kevin I called Home Depot and they have it.. It can be bought in quarts, gallons, and five gallons. I told them what I was using it for and they said that there were some better products. I ask if they would last four years. I got no answer. People don't believe it but if you think about it you can believe it.

I don't think you will find many people that will know anything about it.. LOL Like I said earlier the worker where I bought it at thought I was a little off my rocker, LOL.. All it is is what they call Base Paint.. Base being un-mixed paint with out the color pigment added... I wish i could find the blog where I found this at.. but that was 4 years ago when I did my research.. The base paint looks white.. but actually dries clear.. Has to be exterior house paint as the exterior has UV, mildew, and bug protect-ant properties in it. Can be latex or oil base.. I used latex because that was the only one they had in small amounts on hand.. The blog I read mention either will work but oil base was better..

very nice

Beautiful tribute that'll always be cherished. Well done Dan.

I was told to use regular outdoor house paint.. they say it beats any other finish.. you have to buy it plain no pigment in it.. paint stores will think you're crazy for buying just the base, LOL.. When I bought mine I explained to the guy what I was doing.. he didn't believe it would dry clear and asked if he could do a small spot sample to see.. I used it once and the project still looks great ( about 4 years now ).. If you do go that route.. The stuff looks milky white.. but will dry clear.. you have to use several real light coats though.. too heavy of coats will make it dry sort of hazy and also can have the milky white look too if very heavy coats are applied..

I use the sawtooth hangers on the back of each piece. That looks heavier than what I normally make.