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I seem to have won 2 prizes at the fair. A donated memorial one which is the big place card thing and second place in fretwork. Thats the one that really means something as there seemed to be some pretty stiff competition. When i dropped it off there was a ton of really nice pieces being dropped off so i didnt expect much. really glad to have pros looking at my stuff and liking it, good feeling.

I have a request to make another Hamsa box, like I made before. It is going to a Pole Dancer Instructor in Brazil! Long story,,,, maybe she will send me a class video......... I'd probable have a heart attach, at my age.

Hands down the hardest thing i have done to date with my scroll sawing. I really like doing portraits

From the spring issue of Sswm. Scrapwood usage

I have had this pattern for a while, I am not sure who the designer of the pattern is. I am hoping one of you might know.

I saw some pictures of crosses done like these so I had to try it. The dark one is worm eaten Chestnut, the other wood I got from a friend is worm eaten Ash. I hung them on the garage wall.

Currently there is only one magazine that is devoted exclusively to scrolling, Scrollsaw Woodworking and Crafts, published by Fox Chapel Publishing. http://scrollsawer.com/ I've subscribed to SSW&C for several years and it can be a bit of a mixed bag, depending on your areas of interests. It's very difficult for a magazine that only publishes 4 issues a year to be everything to all people. It's well done and I enjoy getting it, even though I don't care for every pattern or project they include. There used to be another one called Creative Woodworking and Crafts. Unfortunately if ceased publishing several years ago. S.A.W. (Scrollsaw Association of the World) puts out a quarterly newsletter/magazine, but you have to be a member of S.A.W. to get it. I've seen a few and they look quite nice, with lots of good information and some patterns, without all the advertising that comes with a commercially published magazine.

Maybe, but what a way to go

It is a Steve Good pattern. You did a great job on it.

Just finished this project. The pattern came from Sheila laundry designs. I increased the size to 125% and cut it out of cedar.

Well, I've been "studying" up on your posts in regard to the puzzles since I've been trying some out. You all make it look much easier then they are however! I had a book with just animals not the words I had worked on some from. I had some trouble cutting those so I was a little afraid of the "words" ones I got from you. However, I finally got brave and gave one ago. I just finished the "Bulldog" I got from you. First, I like the puzzles and know lots of family members who have different dogs so I can give them as gifts. Second, I figure cutting the puzzles is a great way for me to work on cutting on the lines - something highly important in the intarsia work that brought me to the scroll saw last year. I will try to get some pictures up sooner or later of mine BUT I''m no expert for sure! I went looking today to see what wood you used because I had tried other woods and wasn't happy. The bulldog I did today I used some popular to cut it and was much happier with it. I had also tried with different blades - some Flying Dutchmen, and some others. I had more trouble with those then I had today when I cut using the Oh Line Gold blades I had gotten from Judy Gale Roberts for my Intarsia work. Somewhere I think I had read the FD were aggressive - from my experiences - I think they were for me at least. I also still have a tendency to "push" sometimes - not good on puzzles like these if you want someone to actually be able to put them together and have them go together from either side. Did better on the one I did today - think some of it was me trying to make sure to not push and I think the popular was easier for me to cut without pushing. Thanks for all you and others have shared on making the puzzles.

I'm with Scrappile, I thought it was the name of Bob Marley's band before it became Bob Marley and the Raiders. They both look great Frank. I really love the elephants though, definitely my favorite. Well done. Marg

And I thought "Bob Marley and the elephants" was the name of a singing group! Nice work.

What blade, size and type, do y'all recommend for cutting fairly brittle plastic, and for vinyl (records that kind of thing) TIA Jim

I'm almost finished making the wedding card box for my son's wedding this July and I thought you folks might like to see my progress. I used a pattern that was sent to me from Birchbark (thanks so much!). I printed out the pattern and took it into FedEx Office and had it enlarged on the copy machine because my son wanted it a tad larger. The original size would have been fine for wedding cards but my future daughter has other plans for it after and wanted it a tad larger. Who am I to argue with a future bride?? The box in about 14" square at the base and 13" high (I put a Coors can in one of the pics so you could judge the scale). I built the box sides using 1x12 red oak. The box is joined using a box joint that jig that I made for my cheapo router table. The top is made from 1x4 oak boards splined together, that was a first for me. I used my biscuit cutter to keep the boards aligned. All I need to do now is to stain and finish the box. I was planning to stain it darker using Min-wax Jacobean stain, but now I'm having second thoughts. When I started this project I made a test panel, so this morning I stained it and I wasn't happy how the scroll work took the stain. The scroll work seemed darker than flat surfaces and I'm sure that its all of the ins and outs make it almost impossible to wipe off the excess stain, so it appears darker. Does anyone know of an easy method of staining the piece or am I nuts for even trying to stain it?

Did I get you again Paul (scrappile) lol You thought it was a group again didn`t you lol it is not it is just Bob Marley & some Palm Trees

If I were you.. I'd probably piece together the DeWalts as long as you can and opt to look for a used Hegner or Hawk.. You seem to have your mind made up on the Hegner so I guess maybe Hawk is out of the question now? or at least give one a good couple hour test run.. Like I said in the other post.. being able to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut is worth it's weight in gold when you get a saw that cuts a lot slower and cannot adjust the aggressiveness.. One thing that you can help compensate is using larger blades to help cut faster.. Not sure if the blade can be adjusted on the Hegners.. but if not.. the type of work you do is typically thicker wood.. and in order to keep the puzzles tight.. you probably don't want to go to a larger blade.. so the only option is being able to adjust the blade front to back for a more aggressive cut. Maybe cutting fast is not a concern of yours.. but for me.. time is money and if I could cut 1 or two more puzzle per day.. that time and money ads up over a years time.. I plan to own or at least try out a Hegner one day.. Maybe I would like one better than my Hawks..

Nice cutting thanks for sharing

And when you get the clams mark the size of each on the each clamp.. I wish they came stamped with the size. If they get mixed, good luck telling the difference by looks. I not sure which I am using, now. It works so I do not really care.

What a great use of scrap wood Thanks for showing us

I have the Hegner Multicut 2S Scrollsaw Variable Speed as you may know I am relatively new to this scroll saw lark but I have been on the tools all my life until ill health forced me to quit before I purchased this I used an old Axminster that was snapped in half off of ebay for £45 I did not want to pay out and not be able to get on with scrolling so done it this way I just screwed it to a board and hey presto broke in half or not she cut lol anyways whilst learning I researched and researched and then went out and about and tried several different ones, I also spoke to a lot of people about which scroll saw would they recommend the majority would come back and say Hegner and it was always for the same reason most had bought one and had it for many years with no issues the main reason I think people buy this brand is the reliability of them parts are easy to get also, they are pretty pricey here in the UK but they do say you get what you pay for just my input for what it is worth (oh by the way Hegners can cut vinyl too) lol The unit is solid not much vibration not too noisy either it is a bottom feed of course so far so good with mine no problems mechanically I have just bought some more clamps though as I snapped the grub screw in one the other day could of been avoided I felt it going weak and carried on using it instead of changing out the screw quick lol lesson learned a 20p screw change ended up being a £8 clamp. I always look on fleabay in case a 2nd hand one comes up local as I would like a back up just in case plus it can be set up to let any young uns that may come a visiting have a go . Good luck with your research and what ever you decide on buying me personally 6 months in and a strip down on a dewalt naaaah not for me.

Nicely done Frank. Jeff

Nice work and i am sure your wife is pleased with it too. Thanks for sharing.

I can see you buying a quality built saw, and like you say 500 Puzzels and the Dewalt needs maintance, now how is maintance on this saw, easier than the Dewalt. My brother in law has an old Hegner about 20 years, the motor just went on it, I feel he got his money's worth for it. Am I correct that they are made in Germany. Good luck with your decision, RJ

HI I have a hegner VS18 and have owned it for over 10 years and I love it. I mostly make smaller ornaments and things. It always cuts right on, I like the smaller table for the size things I am doing. I bought mine used off Craigslist and drove 3 hours to get it. I paid about half what a new one was at that time, it had very little hours on it. The only thing I have noticed that my tension knob that is on the back end of saw seems to loosen up now and then. I mostly cut 1/8 in bb plywood and now I use the great Pegas 2/0 blades. I did unhook the bellows and am blowing my air with an airbrush compressor hooked up to my foot switch and I get lots better sawdust cleanning around blade area. Keep your eyes out for a nice one on Craigslist. Make sure you get variable speed and the quick blade release. Good Luck, Bill

Great cut Steve I also recognise the pattern but for the life of me cannot remember who it is lol

I have no idea who the design is but it is a fairly popular pattern. It cut from 3mm Hoop Pine with 2/0 Reverse Tooth flat blades. Once again it is for my neighbour, she loves my work. Marg

It's totally amazing at how flawless your work is with a scroll saw!

Great job.There a warehouse here shared with 3 bands,i should load them up with musical things,Thanks!

Steve, you did a great job cutting this one out, but that's the norm or you. One thing I don't like, and that's your choice of hangers. The brass wire takes away from the cutting, personally, I think a sawtooth hanger would be better. If the wire was connected to the cutting where the lure is, then it would look more normal or like it should. I'm sorry if you think this critique is to harsh, it's meant to be constructive not mean. Len

lol.

Cut on ply that I saved from being dumped Pattern was from the library here by Grampa, not sure about the Bob Marley pattern it was in my files with no name .

Nice job Frank. Bob is on my to do list.

Nice pattern and cutting.

Finished this camping sign for my grand daughter. did change a couple things, seemed to turn out ok. Pattern is from Wayne. edward

Super pattern and cutting.

Nice work thanks for sharing

Those came out great thanks for sharing

Nicely done Steve. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Good looking cut, well done. jim penquin

There is a plastic material called "Starboard" that was originally developed for the marine industry.Do a Google search for it to find the sources It comes in many colors and is colorfast in Sunlight. It is also the same color all the way through it and it comes in standard sheet stock thicknesses and 4' X 9' sizes There is a special glue for it, because most glues won't adhere to it. You can cut and shape this material with regular woodworking power tools. This material is the best, easily workable, material that I know of for making outdoor signs and other products that need to last a really long time, but it isn't cheap, so it may not be worth using it for this job. I sometimes do work for the NC Science Museums, and they have gone away from using birch cabinet plywood with HP Laminate covering to using Starboard for most of the exhibit cabinet building, because it is so much more resistant to scratching, chipping, and graffiti. Cabinet assembly is usually done with hidden pocket screws, but sometimes it is also glued together. On a side note - scraps of Starboard make great cutting boards for the kitchen, I think even better that HDPE, and with color choices.. If wood is the only option, use cedar, or white oak and design the sign so that all of the top surfaces are not flat, but slightly slopped so that rain will not collect on these surfaces and keep all of the wood well sealed with exterior paint, caulking, or epoxy, or if the wood grain needs to show, covered with several coats of a good top quality Marine Spar Varnish, and add new coats of finish every few years. The railings and spars of old sailing ships were preserved with frequent coats of boiled linseed oil. This works well, but smells bad for days after application, dries slowly, and needs to be re-coated frequently. For safety when using linseed or other drying oils, all of the application tools, brushes, and rags should be put outside of your shop or residence in a pail of water very soon after use to avoid spontaneous combustion. Linseed Oil, tung oil and other drying oils react with Oxygen in the air as they dry, but Boiled Linseed Oil is seemingly much more dangerous than these other drying oils, and can burst into flames on it's own when it cannot give off this generated heat freely. This can happen quickly under the right conditions. A bunched up Linseed Oil soaked rag laying on your workbench can become too hot to touch in less than an hour. The safest way to avoid these problems is to remove the materials from the building soon after use. I used to have a chain link fence that I would hang my oil soaked rags and brushes from while they dried to afford free air circulation around them and remove the heat. but I no longer have one near my present shop. The pail of water is way safer anyway, but make certain that they remain below the surface of the water. The day following their use I remove them from the water and throw them into the trash.. Charley

Here is another place to look, cheaper than a lot of places. I have not bought from them yet, it was recommended on another forum. http://www.woodworkingparts.com/

Great job on a great pattern Steve. Jeff

nice pattern, great job on the cutting

I've been very happy with the Dewalt overall. It cuts well, it's smooth, replacing blades is easy, however, the fact that I'm "wearing them out" in about 9 months has me mildly concerned. But then I hear that out of the factory Dewalt simply oil the bearings and bushings rather than using grease and what I'm hopeful of is that if I can perform maintenance on them myself (and not screw other things up in the process), I'll get longer use out of them between tear downs. I now have 3 Dewalts and my long term plan is to get comfortable, efficient and proficient doing this and I'll be set rotating the 3 saws over the next couple of decades. If I'd known from day 1 that I'd become a puzzle junkie, cutting over1,000 puzzles in my first full year, I'd have likely bought an Excalibar or Hegner right off the bat.

Those are looking real good. What type of wood are you guys using. Almost looks like oak. Iggy, I'm heading to your site now to order some patterns. I guess it's time to give it a try. Also, what size blade are you using.

Thanks for the tip them there bags work a treat

I use a 12" box fan with a trimmed down 3M filter taped to it. I get it as close to the table as I can running it when cutting. I also run a dust collector. If you look in the bottom right corner of the pic you can see the hose resting on the bench. Additionally I have 2 - 24" fans. One runs all the time I'm in the shop. The other I move into place to capture the most dust for a given operation other than scrolling e.g., routing.

Katie.Love the Sword.Your idea of coming using the paint tray as a Shield,Now that was So Cool.Love it.Your their No,1 Aunt.

A few years back I went to a Tartan festival. Some guy was making these little shields. Do not think it would be hard to make and the kids might get a kick out of one or two