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  1. WayneG

    WayneG

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    lawson56

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2017 in all areas

  1. I made this 4 tiered jewelry box for my wife's birthday last week while i was on Vacation. This is a Wildwood design made in Cherry
    8 points
  2. I'm very happy with Santa and the giraffes, but the shamrock needs some tweaking. I won't mess with it now, but it'll be something to modify later. Santa and giraffes will debut at Lazy Daze in a week.
    5 points
  3. Aggie

    Coworkers son

    Here's my cut of the son of someone I work with. Cut by me / pattern by me.
    4 points
  4. Good news... Finally... As I reported recently, Nilus had narrowed down the issues I was having with this saw to the lower arm and sent me a replacement which I received last week. I installed it, ran a couple of quick tests and felt good about it. Today, I put it to the full test and I'm happy to report that all seems good. I even moved it into my cutting area and moved the DeWalt out. I've been cutting kids puzzles with it all day as I wanted to test it on "easy" stuff... 3/4" pine and no real tight turns/cuts. Every puzzle piece slides in an out both ways, the saw has only the slightest vibration which isn't an issue but I may try to tweak it another time. The few times I did have tight turns/angles to make, the Hawk cut them perfectly and tighter than I ever could on my DeWalt. The weirdest thing I'm having to get used to is the fact that the Hawk actually cuts truly STRAIGHT. The DeWalt's (all 3 of them that I have), you had to kind of adjust your angle when cutting a straight line, almost like a natural "drift". I kept getting off my lines with the Hawk at first cuz the thing cuts perfectly straight up a line. I hope that makes sense, it's hard to describe. Oh, while I'm thinking about it... whoever recommended the Pegas Modified Geometry blades to use with the Hawk because it tends to cut slower, those blades are FABULOUS, they definitely are more aggressive. Not sure I'd want to try them on my DeWalt though. LOL They cut FAST. On the Hawk it helps re-gain some of the speed lost as compared to the DeWalt. As a reminder, the Hawk does have an adjustment in which you can increase the aggressiveness of the cut by adjusting the forward pitch of the blade, but you can not do that if you cut puzzles, it screws them up big time. As to the Pegas blades, I bought a sample pack from Amazon if anyone else is interested in trying them. https://www.amazon.com/Pegas-Modified-Geometry-Pinless-Variety/dp/B01B8PQG76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503347678&sr=8-1&keywords=pegas+geometry I'll be ordering a couple gross of the #3's and the #5's as soon as I'm done typing this update. This appears to be the best pricing I've found. http://www.dndsawbladesonline.com/page/79818204 Anyway, I am one happy Iggy right now. I have 30 more kid puzzles to cut tomorrow and then I'm DONE and won't cut again for over a week. I have the mega event this weekend and then I have to catch a 7am flight to Austin, TX Monday morning for business and will get home Wednesday night. I'm looking forward to taking a break from cutting... it's been one hell of a 3 months of cutting 550 puzzles in advance of this event... plus what I was selling on a weekly basis. I'll provide updates if anything changes, but right now all is good. I still need to cut some of my regular animal puzzles out of poplar to get a true feel for things. Iggy
    3 points
  5. The lady I'm making these names for, wants a total of 4, this is the 3rd, made from 1/2 Walnut, and I want to also thank birch bark for this and all my patterns
    3 points
  6. WayneG

    osprey and eagle

    osprey in flight cut and framed from oak, eagle coming in for landing or fishing cut and framed from maple
    3 points
  7. 2 points
  8. biggest tips I can give you are this. Guide the piece of wood into/around the blade just think of it like holding and guiding a steering wheel of a vehicle, don't push it, let the saw work. When doing a piece with inside cuts, drill the holes then flip the board over and take a counter sink bit and slightly drill each hole to form a depression in the wood. Saves hours and your back, the blade is easy to thread then. Practice techniques of making sharp corners, they help immensely and I use different techniques in different scenarios. Do 98% of your sanding prior to ever touching the piece of wood with your saw or drill (press) Lastly when you get frustrated and you will when you challenge your scrolling skills, step away and go do something else for an hour, day or more. Then you will come back fresh. Have fun, wood is awesome you can do anything with it
    2 points
  9. amazingkevin

    i like beer

    My free wood supplier i promised a beer mug.well i found a good one yesterday so here it is!
    1 point
  10. Cut from 3/4 inch pieces and then sliced with the scroll saw.
    1 point
  11. tonylumps

    New Excalibur

    Ebay Made an offer and they excepted .The saw shipped from Maysville Kentucky it was here in less than 2 days.The fastest shipping i have ever seen. It was a weird UPS tracking # I have never seen before
    1 point
  12. Really well done Monti, I also love the multi coloured ones. Jeff
    1 point
  13. ike

    First of many questions...

    Tools tools tools every body needs tools. Drill Press I have a craftmans $ 150. An awl to inlarge the staarting hole $ 5, sander I love my Mouse. $ 40, You can get these on cregslist for a lot cheeper That is the 3 basic tools yu will need. Blsdes They sell a virity pack of sizes Some buy these and then decide what size you need but I use Olson's baldes in the 2 main sizes #5 & #7 Mostly #5 m R ( 7 reversed teeth at the bottom to clear away the chips. That would be a good start. There is other tools that you will get at a later date. IKE
    1 point
  14. With the Shamrock, as it was drawn, the interlocking puzzle pieces aren't flared out enough so they don't actually interlock or lock in as puzzle pieces. As I continued cutting, I started flaring them out a little as I went, so towards the end they were OK, but my first few (the stem and the lower right corner in the picture) they don't actually stay together. I'll work on the pattern at some point because I like the puzzle itself with the 3 shamrocks within the shamrock.
    1 point
  15. If you do not know where the noise is coming from then it is impossible to help you. Will tell you this that sometimes the dust blower tube gets moved when changing blades and it will hit the clamp. Then at times the tension lever in the back will sometimes slide against the arm in the back and it will make a clunking noise when the saw goes up and down. Other than that I have had mine for 15 years+ and no noises that can not be fixed and they were what I explained. Love my RBI and would buy another. In my opinion best saw on the market.
    1 point
  16. tuner

    Noisy Hawk 220 (1986)

    Check your tension rod "v" blocks they tend to round out and make noise
    1 point
  17. Two books you might want to look into to help you. Scroll Saw Workbook by John A Nelson. And/or, Big Book is Scroll Saw Woodworking by Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts magazine. (Said magazine is pretty good too. Actually damn good in my opinion). Both of those books may help you get started.
    1 point
  18. Welcome to village and the addiction. Some really good advice has been given. Get used to the saw and blades with simple outside shapes. Try them in various thicknesses to see how it all reacts. There a lot of places to get free patterns, here at the village is one of them, Steve Good is another. You can also just google line art images of what ever you want, letters, dogs, cats etc. Be patient, go slow and ask questions. As for something to start out understanding some things about the blades. Olson has a great chart for free, you can find it here and maybe print it out. Personally I use Flying Dutchman but everyone has their own opinions. Have fun and enjoy it.
    1 point
  19. Those are very nice. Must be hard to cut those small things.
    1 point
  20. Dave Monk

    Coworkers son

    Very nice job!
    1 point
  21. Looking good !.....Nice work !
    1 point
  22. Scrolling Steve

    Coworkers son

    Nice job all around !
    1 point
  23. Welcome and all here have been where you are now so ask the questions someone has had the same experience and solved it. When I first started I stayed with no hole projects and got used to the saw just cutting little things like teddy bear shapes, hearts. cats Letters with large inside cuts etc. then I would paint them. My wife thought the were cute. The first saw had 2 speeds low and high and used pin in blades so as mentioned above delicate fret work did not happen. After time on the first saw a few months I had opportunity to buy a Dewalt. I was making holes with a hand drill since I had to only fret out big areas and could use a bit large enough for the pin end blade. The time spent was worth it to get the hang of the saw and the cutting. Patterns from coloring books sometimes are good starters. As for wood I started with what ever was laying around or out of dumpster diving. Stuck to plywood (cheap), poor quality pine, old used wood. As I got better and practice I started to use Oak, walnut cherry and purchased some but much of my wood came from friends that I gave what I made and they would say I have this old piece or oak from a dresser or something. Best score was a doctor I worked with who had built his own barn from trees on his property to house his vintage John deere tractors. He gave me things he couldn't use like 10 to 12 foot pieces of walnut and oak. Just keep your eyes open and I just have issues turning down free wood. May help to know type of machine you have. Blades i have used Flying dutchman for years but the blade is what you are comfortable cutting with does the best cut and lasts for you. Try a variety and you will find yours.
    1 point
  24. Your regular drill bits and such should work when you are starting out. As for wood think about what you want to do. For portraits like people do the easiest is baltic birch. The most common thicknesses are 1/8" and 1/4" so either one will be fine. For things like puzzle like those animal type puzzles you see just use some basic pine boards. no sense getting too wrapped up with too much money when first starting out. You will need some blades, its possible to go through a lot of them at a single sitting so spend a few bucks on getting a lot of them. Flying dutchman, olsen, pegasus are a few that people use. i prefer flying dutchman and many will agree on these. They are sold by size so look up a size chart, easy to find online. An example would be a #7 would be for thicker stock, the numbers will go down the thinner the wood gets so for starting out on a pine board that is 3/4" thick you will be fine with a #5 blade, for thin wood use a smaller number. Its best to but them online as most stores just dont carry them and it will drive you nuts looking for them. woodenteddybear is pretty much the outlet for flying dutchman blades. you will see a bunch of types as well. i use fd-sr, flying dutchman, they have reverse teeth so they cut on the up and down strokes so it leaves a smooth finish without a bunch of burrs. also fd-ur will work great.
    1 point
  25. Hi Jason, Welcome. Ask all the questions you want and folks will chime in. Most of what you'll learn will be by trial and error... types of wood, thickness of wood, which blades, what to make... It's truly endless. My bit of advice is start simple, get familiar with the saw and how it cuts, then experiment with different types of projects. Intricate fretwork likely isn't the place to start as any tiny false move and you'll have a mess and it'll just frustrate you. Personally, I buy my wood from Lowe's and Home Depot but be sure to check out hardwood specialty stores in your area. Take a look at the website Wooden Teddy Bear for tons of options of things to make. http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/ There are also plenty of free patterns available here and other sites. Enjoy the adventure. Iggy
    1 point
  26. Young_Scroller

    used dewalt

    Thanks to everyone for the help, I offered him $125 because I didnt want to low ball him and he said he didnt want to let it go for any less than $150 because he only used it once or twice but I was able to get him to throw in an old caftsman belt and disc sander for free without a motor. so now I need to find a cheap 1 hp motor somewhere for it. Now I need to know what kind of maintenance I need to keep this saw running well for as long as possible. Thanks again!
    1 point
  27. daveww1

    Coworkers son

    Awesome job, I'm sure he'll like it
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. Alderman

    Coworkers son

    Hey that's very nice, I've never tried a face pattern,are they very hard?
    1 point
  30. Wow very nice, and those little pieces are tough to hold on too!!! Keep fingers back and keep on scrollin!!!
    1 point
  31. Those are very neat! I have in mind to try to make some pendants out of soapstone. I use to turn it on a lathe and make things, should be able to cut it on a scrolls saw.
    1 point
  32. rjR

    Coworkers son

    Said it all. Great work.
    1 point
  33. Very nice work and great idea. thanks for sharing.
    1 point
  34. New Guy

    Midwest Show

    I also went to the show and spend some money on a little wood. Took my camera and proved I am not skilled with it.
    1 point
  35. DWSUDEKUM

    Coworkers son

    Very nicely done. They should be very happy with that. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW
    1 point
  36. WayneG

    Loon and salmon

    Loon cut from merbau, salmon cut from oak
    1 point
  37. orca cut from and framed in oak mounted on Sapelle engineered flooring sample, thunderbird cut from acacia on a red artists canvas framed with acacia.
    1 point
  38. WayneG

    sun god and whale fin

    haida sun god cut from oak and a whale fin breaching a wave but from rubber wood
    1 point
  39. Hey Brian, it's a popular one for me that's why I wanted to find similar ones. I have 12 kids puzzles that I currently display, I sold 7 today and 10 last week. I have 3 more design I'll be making this week for a total of 15 and I'm taking 10 of each for Lazy Daze. By the way, if the weather forecast holds true, it is going to be PERFECT weather... it's normally 90-95 degrees and right now it's expected to be 83 each day and sunny. I look forward to meeting you in a week.
    1 point
  40. hotshot

    New Excalibur

    I'm glad to hear someone else that prefers the original EX design. I like some of what I saw in the New Seyco, but still, I really like the design of my EX. I could enjoy either saw, but it's better to have options, so I'm rooting for the rebrands of the EX design.
    1 point
  41. Scrappile

    New Excalibur

    Nothing wrong with the Ex. Did Seyco have one for sale? Is that where you got the new Ex? I agree with the head tilting, I never used it but I think I would like the Ex's turn knob method better. I plan on doing some inlaying and think the Ex would have been easier for tilting the head back and forth, I shall see. But, don't short change the Seyco. I have had both now and except for a couple little things they are the same. I do love the bigger table, but did not care for the magnetic cover. I have since made my own cover out of masonite and can insert zero clearance disks in it, same setup I had put on my Ex.
    1 point
  42. Scrappile

    Pays to ask

    Great work and a great idea, showing the Quilt store owner your work. I am a quilter husband also.... spend a lot of time sitting in the car, while my wife goes into one more quilt store.... Maybe I will take a few samples to show and take some money out of a quit store for a change,, instead of my wife giving them money all the time......
    1 point
  43. My Hawk is about the same age as yours and I cannot get a coin to stand up when it's running at full speed. And there are some "harmonic" vibrations about mid way up the speed dial where I don't think anything could stand on it.
    0 points
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