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Hey Gang, Just a quick update for ya if you're interested. I arrived at the mega event at precisely 5am this morning to setup. Twas a long day. The weather was perfect, the crowd was large, people were happy to have a nice day to roam around. Remember the question in my mind was a larger crowd or a huge number of vendors going to impact my sales compared to a similar event in the same town I did back in April. The answer turns out to be that having 350 vendors compared to 170 vendors means that the pool of spending money being spread out to more vendors is what matters. In April, at the similar event, I sold 96 puzzles. Today, I sold almost the exact same, 93 puzzles. No complaints at all, but I had a target of 150 for today. Tomorrow will be weak, the 2nd day of 2 day events always is, and it's only 4 1/2 hours in duration tomorrow compared to 9 hours today. If I sell 40 tomorrow I'll be happy. The good news is the folks next to me that were selling really cheap yard art items, sold out and they won't be there tomorrow, so I can set my booth up like I do at the farmers market with my tables around the perimeter of the tent so people don't have to step inside. I hope everyone is having a good weekend. Talk with ya soon. Iggy

My design. I've done on my wife's request. 30 cm (12 inches) diameter. 5 different woods. Finishing with Pruva Natural Wood Wax.

Individually Hand Cut By Me On Scroll Saw. From start to finish it takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour to finish a puzzle. I sand all edges and eliminate sharp corners. If they are any detail lines, I will take a tooth brush and remove the saw dust. Mostly adults buy my puzzles as collector items but I still try to make each puzzle as child safe as possible.

My neighbor is a Saab nut... At the request of his wife I made this for him. Griffin cut from oak flooring, circle from a dresser drawer bottom, backboard from pine Ikea entertainment unit, frame is from a maple side table... It's 20" x 20". Turned out pretty good. He tells me his Saab club buddies will be paying me a visit...

Well I'm getting back out today.first time since my little accident with my tree.Haven't been anywhere in a couple weeks.Wish me luck.The foot is still a little swollen.Don't know how long I will be able to last.Getting real board sitting here at the house.

Individually Hand Cut By Me On Scroll Saw. From start to finish it takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour to finish a puzzle. I sand all edges and eliminate sharp corners. If they are any detail lines, I will take a tooth brush and remove the saw dust. Mostly adults buy my puzzles as collector items but I still try to make each puzzle as child safe as possible.

Looking to get some feedback as to which way to hang this piece that was quite a challenge to cut without breaking it. Let me know which pic you like best. Thanks!

Here's my cut of a Lynx. Cut by me / pattern by me.

Orca cut from maple splatter painted backboard and frame

You guess it another neighbors dog, I guess word got around that I cut. I live in a 16 story building and there's 6 others on the street so I could be busy with dog for awhile. LOL Cut by me / pattern by me.

This is an incredible pattern. Labor intensive but rewarding. Thanks soo much Sasho.

Knocked out some more free ones .Everybody loves free.#/4" plywood on 1/4" stand,rattle can spray,Rustoleum

Another simple fretwork project I am using as practice for a big fretwork build project. I am undecided what the big project will be either a grandfather clock or a cathedral.

My wife and I never buy each other gifts .........the only thing we really need is tools. I came up with this idea that I thought would be fitting for an anniversary gift to give her. Very simple pattern but I love the message.

Thanks to Bob for the pattern on this., Finished if off and mailed it to the fellow who asked for it. I use 6 inch clear oak threshold material I get from a mill. These are off cuts and waste for them, I use them up for sayings like this and they come out great. One man's garbage is another mans gold. jim penquin

Well I will have to agree, that looks a tad bit "labor intensive" alright. You, sir, labored well. It is a great cutting. Well done.

A couple of years back, we were out to the Orange Co. Fair and they always have the O.C. Woodworkers out there doing demonstrations of pen turning and scroll sawing etc. This time though, there was something different. A man by the name of Ken Cowell was demonstrating marquetry using his technique. He was using a home made foot powered scrolled saw that was running very slowly. That in itself caught my eye. Then, I took notice of what he was doing so I started talking with him. He explained the whole process. He also told me that he does seminars in his garage a few times a year and sells supplies. I enrolled in his class and bought the stuff that he made available. He also resaws his own veneers to a very thin thickness. Less than a 1/16 of an inch. He has kits available too. It's a very interesting hobby. That is why I now have my saw and my interest in scrollsawing as a hobby. Anybody who lives in the So.Cal. area would be wise to check out his classes. If interested, let me know and I'll provide the info. Also, if you are truly interested, try to find a copy of this book. "The Art of Marquetry" by Craig Vandall Stevens. I found mine on Amazon. It is the same method that Ken teaches. Ray

Excellent work!

Very well done.

That is good to hear Bobby. I wasn't aware you had an accident but glad your better.

Nice one.

Real creative very nice work.

Very nice cut there.

great job

Very nicely done project. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

That turned out great !

I like it great job!

Lawson of Loretto. Take it easy and take you time moving around. Enjoy the sunshine(hopefully) and all the wonders of nature,

It wont take long.Fantastic job.

Thanks. They don't have the puzzle blades I like, but they have a lot of other cool stuff to look at/buy.

Started this 2 weeks ago and just got back to it today. Wayne G posted one last Friday which I liked a little more than mine. I/8" BBP #2 spiral blade.

Nice work dave thanks for sharing

A big WELCOME from me. Roly

Beautiful work Dave!

Looks great and she will love it Jerry

A starter assortments of blades, blue painters tape or like product, spray adhesive and a pattern and you should be ready to go.

I got some stiff flat foam panels and thought they would be great for comfort when standing for long periods. And the foam worked great except under my saw. I began to notice the blade getting fuzzy as I followed the lines. It was minute vibration caused by the mat. I took the foam mat out and suddenly the blade became crystal clear again. If you have the space, place a mat where you stand but not under your saw. Bob

I had some in front of my mill for a while. They're nice for standing but I wouldn't want to have to push something heavy on wheels across it. I threw them out when they got slippery from oil and had lots of little metal shavings embedded in them - something you probably wouldn't have to worry about in a woodworking shop. If you've got a store like CAL Ranch or Tractor Supply you should stop in and look at horse mats. They're 20x denser for the same thickness and will hold up to anything.

welcome, people are nice and friendly, I just joined a week or so ago. go hawks go...I should find the pics of the hawks logos I have made...

Welcome to the Village Jason. I'm Marg from Australia. I agree with Denny, a Dremil is a good start but you may need a bench drill press when you have had more practice. Now pull up a chair and make yourself at home. Marg

A Dremil is perfect for any size projects,You found gold finding SSV! Please be a regular as everyone's comments are wanted and needed to make a great club.I sat on the side lines for a whole year before i felt confident to reply.Don't be shy .Jump on in and give your 2 cents worth friend Welcome!

To my eye, you have already posted a pattern. 1. Print it. 2. With a pencil, finish the front of the tusks. 3. If I were cutting it, I would take a pen or pencil and draw scribbly lines for the bridges.

biggest tips I can give you are this. Guide the piece of wood into/around the blade just think of it like holding and guiding a steering wheel of a vehicle, don't push it, let the saw work. When doing a piece with inside cuts, drill the holes then flip the board over and take a counter sink bit and slightly drill each hole to form a depression in the wood. Saves hours and your back, the blade is easy to thread then. Practice techniques of making sharp corners, they help immensely and I use different techniques in different scenarios. Do 98% of your sanding prior to ever touching the piece of wood with your saw or drill (press) Lastly when you get frustrated and you will when you challenge your scrolling skills, step away and go do something else for an hour, day or more. Then you will come back fresh. Have fun, wood is awesome you can do anything with it

Get ready to go down the rabbit hole. Good advice above. Sounds like you've got most of what you need already. Only thing I'd add would be small set of riffler files. You should be able to find some reasonably cheap on-line or at your local hardware store. They are handy for removing the fuzzies and burrs from the bottom of your cuts.

Tools tools tools every body needs tools. Drill Press I have a craftmans $ 150. An awl to inlarge the staarting hole $ 5, sander I love my Mouse. $ 40, You can get these on cregslist for a lot cheeper That is the 3 basic tools yu will need. Blsdes They sell a virity pack of sizes Some buy these and then decide what size you need but I use Olson's baldes in the 2 main sizes #5 & #7 Mostly #5 m R ( 7 reversed teeth at the bottom to clear away the chips. That would be a good start. There is other tools that you will get at a later date. IKE

welcome to the forum & the greatest addiction since diesel smoke!;);) Like Mr. Wayne said, it'd help us more to know the breed of your saw. When you start lookin' at blades, don't let all the types & sizes intimidate ya. You'll learn that as you go along. Ya don't need a drill press to get started. If you've got a cordless drill & small bits(1/16" - 1/8") will suffice. Personally, were I you, I'd stick to outside cuts for now until you get to know your saw, & figure out the vibration. Maybe we can help with that from here. I mainly use Flying Dutchman & Olson blades, but there are many other preference here.

Two books you might want to look into to help you. Scroll Saw Workbook by John A Nelson. And/or, Big Book is Scroll Saw Woodworking by Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts magazine. (Said magazine is pretty good too. Actually damn good in my opinion). Both of those books may help you get started.

Welcome to village and the addiction. Some really good advice has been given. Get used to the saw and blades with simple outside shapes. Try them in various thicknesses to see how it all reacts. There a lot of places to get free patterns, here at the village is one of them, Steve Good is another. You can also just google line art images of what ever you want, letters, dogs, cats etc. Be patient, go slow and ask questions. As for something to start out understanding some things about the blades. Olson has a great chart for free, you can find it here and maybe print it out. Personally I use Flying Dutchman but everyone has their own opinions. Have fun and enjoy it.

Welcome and all here have been where you are now so ask the questions someone has had the same experience and solved it. When I first started I stayed with no hole projects and got used to the saw just cutting little things like teddy bear shapes, hearts. cats Letters with large inside cuts etc. then I would paint them. My wife thought the were cute. The first saw had 2 speeds low and high and used pin in blades so as mentioned above delicate fret work did not happen. After time on the first saw a few months I had opportunity to buy a Dewalt. I was making holes with a hand drill since I had to only fret out big areas and could use a bit large enough for the pin end blade. The time spent was worth it to get the hang of the saw and the cutting. Patterns from coloring books sometimes are good starters. As for wood I started with what ever was laying around or out of dumpster diving. Stuck to plywood (cheap), poor quality pine, old used wood. As I got better and practice I started to use Oak, walnut cherry and purchased some but much of my wood came from friends that I gave what I made and they would say I have this old piece or oak from a dresser or something. Best score was a doctor I worked with who had built his own barn from trees on his property to house his vintage John deere tractors. He gave me things he couldn't use like 10 to 12 foot pieces of walnut and oak. Just keep your eyes open and I just have issues turning down free wood. May help to know type of machine you have. Blades i have used Flying dutchman for years but the blade is what you are comfortable cutting with does the best cut and lasts for you. Try a variety and you will find yours.

Your regular drill bits and such should work when you are starting out. As for wood think about what you want to do. For portraits like people do the easiest is baltic birch. The most common thicknesses are 1/8" and 1/4" so either one will be fine. For things like puzzle like those animal type puzzles you see just use some basic pine boards. no sense getting too wrapped up with too much money when first starting out. You will need some blades, its possible to go through a lot of them at a single sitting so spend a few bucks on getting a lot of them. Flying dutchman, olsen, pegasus are a few that people use. i prefer flying dutchman and many will agree on these. They are sold by size so look up a size chart, easy to find online. An example would be a #7 would be for thicker stock, the numbers will go down the thinner the wood gets so for starting out on a pine board that is 3/4" thick you will be fine with a #5 blade, for thin wood use a smaller number. Its best to but them online as most stores just dont carry them and it will drive you nuts looking for them. woodenteddybear is pretty much the outlet for flying dutchman blades. you will see a bunch of types as well. i use fd-sr, flying dutchman, they have reverse teeth so they cut on the up and down strokes so it leaves a smooth finish without a bunch of burrs. also fd-ur will work great.