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My next craft fair is on Sunday. I have way too much stock already but can't resist cutting more stuff. This Family Sign is cut from the side of an old kitchen drawer box. Not sure what the timber is. Cut with a FDUR#5 and finished with tung oil. Pattern is by Steve Good. Rob

a COUPLE OF JOBS CAME IN AND I FORGOT TO TAKE PICTUres of 20 -10" letters but did "M" in 24"letter and lounge in 7" and had to do them over bigger in 10"and another phar tech one for the girl at cvs pharmacy she wanted yellow w/white glitter.

Again I say Hello to all my friends here in the village. I just returned to our new home in Arizona after a one month vacation back in Oregon. We stayed in our previous town of Heppner and stayed with our two daughters, We saw many of our friends there and during the first two weeks there, I was able to go to Tri Cities Washington and see our good friend, Paul, known to all as Scrappile. We had a great time sharing stories and I checked out his new Seyco scroll saw. He continues his masterful talent on that saw, just as he did on his EX 21. So glad i took the time to see him. We also went to the Portland area to go to my granddaughter baby shower. She flew in from North Carolina for it, as she grew up in Portland. We next drove to Salem, Oregon where we viewed the eclipse in it's entirety for just over two minutes. It was so cool. We were able to see the stars in mid morning. It was a clear sunny day and I will never forget it. Glad to be back home, We have a lot to do but I should soon be able to be back here with my Scroll saw family daily, very soon. Missed you all. Dick heppnerguy

Taking a break from puzzles.

it seems I'm not the only one who feels that the scrollsaw is a very safe tool. and yes, those toy banjos are my own design. all the toys Ive made, and will make, are of my own design. these toy banjos were for the crowd at the philly folk festival, and thats the philly folk festival banjo face painted on the drums. they dont actually play, I couldnt get the strings tight enough. but theyre made entirely of recycled materials, and they were only ten bucks each. pity Ive got about 22 left. I only made a hundred bucks from them so far.

I have, once or twice. Last time a piece jumped on me and my hand slipped off and into the blade. I think the other time I was cutting a very small part, and thought I could get just a little closer... Both were just deep enough to require a bandaid. Just because it's unlikely doesn't mean it's impossible. My brother has found a way to run a finger into the blade every time he's tried to use a scroll saw. So, he's quit trying. He'd rather use his fingers to drink beer.

I started with a one speed Delta and I never liked it. I purchased a Ryobi variable speed saw and enjoyed it a lot more. I used it about 18 moths and found the tension rod stripped our on a regular basis. Other parts had to be replaced but the parts were very inexpensive and easy to get. I got really tired of buying and replacing parts when I saw a DeWalt on sale for under 350 dollars and free shipping so I purchased that.I really enjoyed that saw and put a bunch of hours on it. I went to an estate sale and found a Hawk for $65 and I could not pass that up. I never really liked the saw because of the blade changing process on it. One of our members here sent me some really nice blade holders that he made that changed that problem. My daughter started making intarsia and I gave her my Hawk as a gift, as I wanted her to start with a good saw. Just before my move from Oregon to Arizona, I purchased Scrappile's Ex 21 and I fell in love with is. Because the EX is no longer in production, I would recommend the DeWalt as the best saw for those who just can not put out more than $500 for a scroll saw. Dick heppnerguy

Before I answer you question, let me try to give an explanation to the reason for the comment in the first place. On the Hegner/Hawk style saws, the motor drives the bottom arm, but not the top arm. So at the bottom of the stroke, when the arm changes direction and go back up, it is that tension rod in the back that stops the downward momentum, and then re-accellerates the top arm very very quickly going the opposite direction. Quite a bit of force on that tension rod I would think. At top speed, the Hawk stops that downward momentum and pulls that blade up 29 times/second. Not a big deal because that tension rod is strong and can handle it. However, what do you suppose slows that blade down as it reaches the top of the stroke, and pulls it back down? Along with the resistance to the the wood, the blade is responsible for the forces required to quickly bring that arm to a halt, then accelerate it back in the downward direction, 29 times per second. When the blade breaks, the arms fly up on these saws. This isn't a surprise to the manufactures. Under the section on "Jewelers Blades" in the Hawk manual, it says: "To cut metals using your Hawk Scroll Saw, you will need to slow the saw down and cut at a slower speed. " So, I have been able to use smaller blades on these saws, but I have to be easy on the blades by keeping the speed slow. Back to the question on blade sizes, see the chart below to see how the naming convention works on the smaller blades.

Just finished plaque of our grandkids.

Looks great!

I really like this one. Super scrolling.

Very nice cutting. Lines are clean and crisp.

Course blades #7,9 and larger pose a potential cut hazard because the gullets of the blades are so large. 2/0 would require a lot of force and could easily break the blade before the skin. I have had a couple of nicks from voids, dog barking(startled) so it can happen. losing a limb not without serious effort. Fredfret Wichita,ks

As long as you have the time, the material to cut - the more you take the more you can sell so its good. Nice job. Thanks for sharing.

Those look great. Are they considered ornaments?

Yes very early in my Hawk ownership. I was aggressively cutting some cheap 1/4 plywood pushing very hard, I had a finger in front of the blade when I hit a void. I had an Olson PGT5 blade in it and it did draw blood. Learned lots of lessons that day. Only once in 12 years, not bad. Those look like a nice project, are they your own design? How about a picture of one of these banjos?

Hawk G4-26 purchased new May 2005. I had a yard sale Dremel with the disc on the side, used maybe once. Then inherited my dad's Craftsman, I cut some gingerbread for my shed with it fell in love with scrolling Hated the saw, blade changes for fretwork was a royal pain. My wife bought me a Delta SS350 with stand at one of our clubs shows. Used it for about a year, a great saw with the best clamps ever. It was just too aggressive for the delicate stuff I was cutting. (still have it) I got to try a Hegner and an older Hawk at one of our club shows. I liked the room under the upper arm on the Hawk and then saw an add for the New G4 with the adjustable aggressiveness and its 26 inch throat. I like simple mechanical stuff. So the Hawk it was. It almost paid for itself my first Christmas with ornament sales, and has since paid for almost all of my workshop tools. I did put the Delta clamps on the top arm.

great job, good luck with the craft show

Like most others I started with a cheap scroll saw, a Craftsman 16 inch. It sort of did the job. Once I decided I liked the craft I went to a Delta P20 a much better product. I was happy with the Delta until the bean counters decided to no longer support it. I now have a Hegner Multi-Max 22v. When I read of the issues encountered with some of the other saws from a reliability stand point I am quite happy with it. I have had the Hegner for 9 years with no mechanical issues. If I were in the market for a new saw I would definitely consider other higher end saws but it would be strictly from a convenience of use standpoint.

Nice cutting there, looks great.

Now that is a Beautiful job.Anyone would be Proud to have that hangin in their home.

I started with a Craftsman,no blower.took only one type of blade,pined.Have had three type since then (17yrs ago).Now I am using a Porter Cable,I have had it for over a year and no problems.

Nice cutting Rob.............You sure it's not Rimu, a lot of drawer sides were made of Rimu........Good luck with the fair................

I started off with a 16" Delta, I used it so much I literally killed it. Then I got a DeWalt about 11 / 12 years ago, man I love that saw. And Finally my husband got me a Ex21. So now I use both the DeWalt and the Ex, but the love of my life is my DeWalt. The DeWalt is easier for blade changing and that is number one in my book. Marg

https://www.feldercanada.com/product/excelsior-21-professional-scroll-saw-with-foot-switch so federal canadas website is stating the following bolded right on there webpage; The new Excelsior 21" Scroll Saw is our replacement for the almost impossible to find Excalibur 21" Scroll Saw. This saw is not a knock off, as it is being manufactured to the same specifications by the same factory that was manufacturing the Excalibur Scroll Saw line. I wonder why I have not been able to find a single review of the excelsior....kinda frustrating actually... EDIT; I decided to write an email to King canada suggesting that I review the saw... I hope they bite....

This will look real sweet anywhere in the home!

that's what i'm talking about word of mouth generated sales /Good job keep on keepin on!

A souped up Bobcat it looks like to me,well done scroller

This means a lot to the right person,

My design. I've done on my wife's request. 30 cm (12 inches) diameter. 5 different woods. Finishing with Pruva Natural Wood Wax.

Beautiful piece Rob, nice work!

Nice cutting thanks for sharing

Nice work thanks for sharing

Nice work thanks for sharing

Nice work rob thanks for sharing

Owsome and different. Great work. Sam

Great job on cutting this pattern. Well done. looks great. jim penquin

I started with a $98 Delta from Lowes and for the first 5 - 7 years all I did was cut some hardwood floors for the kitchen (angles and corners and such). Then I discovered that scrolling was sort of an art unto itself and I attempted to use it to do real scroll saw type work but changing blades was a real pain (had to use a tool). I was able to sell it with a lite/magnifier and foot switch for $60 and then I went to Craigslist intending to find a Dewalt 788. There was a nice one about 100 miles away at $300 AND there was a barely used 20 year old Hawk for $450 about 15 miles away. I lowballed an offer of $350 for the Hawk and came away with it. I had to buy a few pieces to get it functional but it's up and running well now. Now I don't have a lot of saw experience to compare with since I've only had the Delta and the Hawk but I'm happy with the Hawk.

Started out with a cheap Porter Cable from Lowes to see if I liked Scrolling. It broke within the 1st year and because I bought the replacement warranty, they gave me a new one and at that same time I upgraded to a type 2 788. The 1st 788 lasted about 3 years before it broke and the service provider could not fix it so they gave me my second 788. That one is now in the shop and I'm back to using the back-up Porter Cable till either I get my 788 back or I get my new Hawk BM26 that I bought last week. The reason for going with the Hawk is because I do not do much Fretwork, I primarily do Intarsia so I am dealing with woods that are 1" thick or thick and the Hawk has a good reputation to be able to handle the thick wood. The Hawk is also easier to work on if needed sense everything is exposed. The other reason I'm going with the Hawk is it is American Made. Brian

This subject is getting more and more interesting as the replies come in. I hope I get a lot more. It's interesting to me to see and understand each person's perspective on what they have/had and why. Keep the replies coming folks. Ray

I do believe hotshot was referring to Dewalt as number two as the blade changes are quick but the damn arm does not stay up... here is my feedback. I use the Dewalt 788 and it is a good all round workhorse of a saw. Its the perfect saw to learn on IMO because it is decent with every aspect of the scrolling realm. The table size is something that I don't think gets enough attention. Its great for inside cuts or fretwork as the top blade change is quick, having said that I don't like the way both the top and bottom hold the blade. Its tough to get the blade just perfect as far as being tight, I tend to over tighten and this damage blades. Overall its a great saw and it is the one I kept when I had a Hegner 18 multimax at the same time. Hunger cuts nicer for sure, the tensioning is tricky but effect when you "get" it however the inside or fretwork projects are an absolute pain in the ass to cut on it due to the way the blade clamps in. Perhaps I did not give it enough of a chance but at that time for my purposes I kept the Dewalt. When I did have both I used the Dewalt for the inside cuts and the Hegner for the outside cuts... I am at the point now that I want to upgrade the Dewalt so I am thinking of pulling the trigger on the new excelsior or perhaps a used Hawk. I may also be interested in the Jet. Good luck

Beautiful portrait....

Very nice work all around !

Terry You do such great patterns and cutting. Thank you for both

Nice!

That is why she said it was a cut of a lynx LOL

I know some DeWalt owners that swear at their DeWalts >>>>>> Sorry could not resist.

That looks a bit like a lynx. Great job on that. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Kevin it is hard to explain in words sometimes but I will try. That nut on the bottom of that rod that sits under the bottom arm should not move or never move. It is a nylon insert in the nut to keep it from spinning off. The rod stays the same length. The adjustment is in the tension lever that controls that wedge shape device. You turn that to match the size of the blade. The top arm should be at a distance from the table so that when lowered the blade just gets pushed into the blade holder. The blade should just touch the top of the blade holder block and the back of the blade is against the pin. This should be automatic when set up right. Now the tension is set when the lever of the front tensioner is pushed. This now takes out the slack of the rod in the back. I basically always use #5 blades so I do not fuss with that back tension lever. If I happen to use a larger blade I will cut the tip of the blade so that it fits in the setup for the #5 blade and saw away. Now as I mentioned on that noise thread, sometimes that back lever works its way against the top arm and scrapes as it goes up and down and make a rattling noise. I just center the lever and keep an eye for it. I can tell that noise right away. I have also put a piece of rubber under that lever because some times it may slam against the arm as it comes down and that usually happens when I use larger blades because I did not reset that lever. If you set up the arm as I said you will not break blades because of too much tension. May break them for poor sawing techniques. Not sure if this makes sense or helps. Good luck. I love my 220 and 226