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I designed and cut this piece from an original painting by artist, Terry Redlin.

Finally finished this Patriot clock reduced the pattern to 85 % to fit the small clock insert, also the Merry Christmas box, both are Steve Goods patterns. edward

Well I finally got around to finishing this project by Steve Good. A lot of cutting. Almost gave up a couple of times. Those wheels were the hardest. I made it out of Walnut and Maple base. I think I will keep this one for myself.

Finished the dart board cabinet for my son's family. He wanted it stained ebony but I sure would have liked to make it out of oak. But it is his house. It is 6"x26"x38". Thanks to Russell (birchbark) for help with the little men holding the darts. The basic idea and plans came from Woodsmith Plans.

I use mineral oil on almost all my projects.. BUT.. I do it different that most would do.. it is a little tedious to get into the fretwork but it gives an awesome finish that shines for a very long time.. I don't have to wait for it to dry so when a order comes in I can make the project and mail it out almost immediately after applying the finish.. I cook up mineral oil mixed with real beeswax.. after this cools down it turns into a loose paste wax texture.. I use an acid brush to apply to the piece.. let it set for maybe an hour or two.. overnight if I am not rushed.. then I use a hairdryer to melt down the extra wax etc. that is left behind and wipe off excess with paper towel.. The wax melting into the pours of the wood gives the wood a nice shine and silky smooth feel to the wood.. I sometimes use Danish oil... but it take several days to dry out and not stink.. and I've had it do the bleed thing as Duke describes plus I've had it dry with spots of shiny clear as if some one put drops of clear coat on it when I wasn't looking LOL.. So while it is sort of time consuming to apply the mineral oil / beeswax mixture.. I've never had an issue with it with any customers.. can't say that about the Danish oil.. had customers complain of a strong smell when opening the box.. after a week of drying.. and about the droplets of clear look..

Thought I would share the finished product for my sister n law. Thanks for all your help.

Just finished plaque of our grandkids.

I was told once you could cut a finger off but you would need to change the blade at least once.

a COUPLE OF JOBS CAME IN AND I FORGOT TO TAKE PICTUres of 20 -10" letters but did "M" in 24"letter and lounge in 7" and had to do them over bigger in 10"and another phar tech one for the girl at cvs pharmacy she wanted yellow w/white glitter.

The aromatic cedar used for these boards grew up in Missouri, was moved as a small log to W. Fargo ND about 12 years ago. Sat in a garage there for a few years; migrated to OR in 2009, and then about 4 months ago went to Lynnwood WA. Well Friday morning it was finally cut to slices. Then it came back to OR on Saturday. By Sunday, it was demanding to be used. Well 750+ holes later, it is 3 cribbage boards. The pegs are all hand made as are the stoppers for the peg storage. The finish is several coats of marine quality spar varnish that I had in stock. The woodburning on 2 was "just because" I wanted to. The edges of all 3 have bug holes, but, not into the wood itself, just the bark. Most likely will end up giving them away. It was a fun project as the cedar is so pretty and adds a nice smell to the shop too. I did have to remake/ modify my template to fit the size of these boards, they are just slightly over 12 inches long each. A scrollsaw was used a tiny amount on every one of them also.

Very nice! I like that she should as well. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Great pattern and cutting.

Looks good, nice work on both pattern and cutting. Thanks for posting. jim penquin

If you want a dry surface, use a drying oil like Tung Oil or BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). These will dry hard, but it will take several days to get really hard. They will soak in and "pop" the grain like mineral oil, so the appearance will be the same. The smell will go away in time too. Apply them, let them soak in, then wipe off the excess that doesn't soak in after about 20 minutes and then let them dry for a few days. Several coats can be applied the same way, a day or two apart without additional sanding, unless you want to. A Strong Word of Caution - When using any drying oil, but especially BLO, a chemical reaction takes place during the drying that gives off considerable heat. This will not harm your project, but you do need to be very aware of this when it comes to disposing of any rags, brushes, etc. because a bunched up oil soaked rag can spontaneously start a fire. Whenever I use a drying oil I will hang my rags on the neighbors chain link fence or submerge them in a pail of water with a metal cover for 24-48 hours before wringing them out and disposing of them in the trash. In either case, they are immediately removed from my shop. I had left a linseed oil soaked rag bunched up on my workbench while I was rearranging some things in my shop so I could better position the pieces for drying that I was applying the oil to. This process took about an hour, a bit longer than I expected, and when I picked up the rag off the workbench to use it again I burned my fingers. It was already that hot in the middle of it. DON"T LEAVE THE RAGS AND APPLICATION MATERIALS IN YOUR SHOP AFTER YOU USE DRYING OILS OR YOU MAY NO LONGER HAVE YOUR SHOP OR HOME. Charley

Again I say Hello to all my friends here in the village. I just returned to our new home in Arizona after a one month vacation back in Oregon. We stayed in our previous town of Heppner and stayed with our two daughters, We saw many of our friends there and during the first two weeks there, I was able to go to Tri Cities Washington and see our good friend, Paul, known to all as Scrappile. We had a great time sharing stories and I checked out his new Seyco scroll saw. He continues his masterful talent on that saw, just as he did on his EX 21. So glad i took the time to see him. We also went to the Portland area to go to my granddaughter baby shower. She flew in from North Carolina for it, as she grew up in Portland. We next drove to Salem, Oregon where we viewed the eclipse in it's entirety for just over two minutes. It was so cool. We were able to see the stars in mid morning. It was a clear sunny day and I will never forget it. Glad to be back home, We have a lot to do but I should soon be able to be back here with my Scroll saw family daily, very soon. Missed you all. Dick heppnerguy

Ah you tell all the practicing scrollers that,lol,Thanks friend!

Depends I suppose on what you want or mean by upgrades... You can send your saw to Hawk ( Bushton ) and they will upgrade the motor, speed controller and rebuild whatever is worn.. so you basically get a new (old) saw... however in my opinion.. you'd be far better ahead to just get a new Hawk with the whole new design.. I don't think they can upgrade the arms as the newer saws arms I believe are longer because the newer models the arm comes out past the angle adjustment... I think the cost for a rebuild etc.. is right around $350 - 400.. well I know the motor and controller is 350+ labor not sure about the shipping cost to ship to them and if the price include them shipping it back.. I looked into this because I found an old Hawk that had a older style motor.. with issues... many older ones did have some motor / controller issues.. Best advise is to get theserial numbers and call Bushton.. they can tell you the year of the saw and what motor it has etc.. while on the phone ask about upgrades.. but I don't think they do much for upgrades.. just basically replace motors and worn parts..

On a parallel arm saw cutting thick stock there is a possibility of a pinch point. Yeah, I found it once and only once. However a scroll saw is about the safest power tool in my shop. I started my grandson on mine when he was seven years old and I was very confident he would not get hurt.

You can buy the same saw in the USA at woodcraft.. called the King scroll saw.. Though they do not have the 21" model.. which I personally believe was the most popular one sold.. only the 16 and 30 inch saws are available under the King name..

Nice pattern and cutting.

Go. Back 5 or 6 post and read about the "Excelsior". Unfortunately it doesn't look like they ship out of Canada. I think my new Seyco is as good as my Excalibur was.

it seems I'm not the only one who feels that the scrollsaw is a very safe tool. and yes, those toy banjos are my own design. all the toys Ive made, and will make, are of my own design. these toy banjos were for the crowd at the philly folk festival, and thats the philly folk festival banjo face painted on the drums. they dont actually play, I couldnt get the strings tight enough. but theyre made entirely of recycled materials, and they were only ten bucks each. pity Ive got about 22 left. I only made a hundred bucks from them so far.

I do the same, cut along the length so I can get into the tight areas. It is a pain in the neck to clean the fuzzies with that. It is better to use the correct blades which leave very little fuzz. Good Luck Sam

I use to use them a bit when I first started scrolling, but now that I use better blades I no longer have any use for them. Len

Never found a need for them. When scrolling if using the right blade your cuts should be smoothe

I hate to hear that, I'm a big fan of Olson blades. I haven't ordered any though within the past 2 or 3 months. Which style are you using? I use Mach Speed.

lol! which would not be too easy anyway, with blood dripping all over the attachment screws