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All 3/4" plywood,some cut with a #12 blade,boy that sped things up quick.Customer stained them.

This lighthouse is on the Georgian Bay shoreline of Lake Huron just down the road from a friends long-time family cottage that is now hosting its 4th generation of kids during the summer months. One of those "kids" is getting married in a couple weeks - at the cottage - and this piece is destined as a wedding gift. The cutting is 1/2 inch walnut backed by 1/8 inch baltic birch that has been dyed black. The frame is cherry. The finish is polyurethane buffed out to a fairly high polish (bit of an experiment - have never buffed a project out to this degree before). Learned a serious lesson about dust with this project - have always vacuumed, wiped and taken a tack cloth to every project between coats - but this time I also learned it is important to vacuum your clothing as well - ended up with 6 very visible dust nibs when I passed my arm over the piece during spraying - I did sand them out and completed an additional spray - but they are still faintly visible if you know where to look - my saving grace is that my wife couldn't find them till they were pointed out ..... meaning ..... if she couldn't find them then it's unlikely anyone can find them ..... Comments welcome. Jay

Boy,is been a long time since last time I post anything.I think I post some project I been working this days Terry

I have gotten a kick out of all the Harvey Byler patterns that Iggy (Scott) and some of you have been posting.....I purchased these three from Scotts site....I wanted to cut some for Kids 31/2 to 6 yrs old and thought that they might travel better and be easier for the young folks to work with if they had a surround rather than free standing.....anyway this is my take....cut from 3/4 poplar and pine with 1/8 BB backers painted bright colors......The kids seem to like them and I hope you guys do too.......Cut with FDUR #5 and #3 blades.......Steve.

Hi RJ. The traditional method of Marquetry is using veneers. The method I use is called Double Bevelled Marquetry using ⅛" exotic hardwoods with ⅛" backboard. I really enjoy this style of Marquetry and in the process of doing more of the traditional method. You too will love Marquetry being it can make many projects pop. Samples attached.

Roly, maybe a combo of the blade and wood. It looks like oak and the grain can take some practice especially on smaller projects.

Pattern isn't really a scroll saw pattern.. I purchased the pattern from a artist that does designs for CNC metal work.. Many scroll sawers think you have to have a "scroll saw pattern" doing a search for DXF files will bring up a whole new view of designs that are typically used for CNC plasma cutters for metal art.. many of them don't need any modifications whatsoever to be used for scroll work. This design was just the truck.. I added the small area below the wheels so I could mount it to a base.. and of coarse the clock portion on the back.. Design is from DarensGraphix on etsy.. DarensGraphix

I agree with Stoney. Spirals have their place, but not word art.

My Thai friend gave me work that pays.he wanted the letter 3/4" tall. Here you go!I messed up ad drilled a hole on the letter "V"I saves clean dust from the wood Paduka? my friend says he can fix it,i detailed filed the spots that needed to be cleaned up with a jewelers file i think it took 12 minutes to cut each board .

I have used the spirals since I started doing this great hobby and before I found out about the different sites on the putter about this hobby and the spiral blade was given a bad reputation even than, but not knowing that the blade could not be controlled, I ordered some along with the flat blades and found that with a little practice I could do just as well with them as the flat blade. When Jeff Zifono, not sure of the spelling, was doing so well with the patterns he created and the write ups in the magazines and the cd he produced, I learned about the better ways of using the blade. For instance, if at all possible pull the work toward you and not pushing it away from you, this will give you much better control and you will cut straight lines much easier. The main thing to remember is that if you don't want the cut to go left or right, don't move the wood! The blade does not have a mind of its own, it is just following what has been introduced to the teeth of the blade! If your fingers moved the wood just the slightest amount left or right, forward or back, the blade will remove what was put in its path. I know that all of this sounds logical but just take a look at the photos that has been posted by 2 other masters of the unwanted blade and tell yourself that the blade cannot be controlled! Erv

But this is labor day week-end and that sounds like labor to me! LOL Okay, good reminder, crupiea. God Bless! Spirithorse

The first rule of mystery holes is we dont talk about mystery holes.

If I need a vent line wider then the flat blade makes I will cut it using flat blade first. Then go back over with a sprial. The sprial will follow the cut line without any problem. When I us a sprial first I just slow down with out any trouble.

All spirals except cutting the rectangles with a chop saw. Chop saw would not work on the interior cuts. To each their own and what works best for them.

At its most basic, the primary function of a spiral blade is to permit the cutting of pieces that are otherwise too large to spin around within the throat of the scrollsaw. There are other functions where they perform quite nicely, such as veining. Patterns without a lot of straight, smooth lines (such as most portraits) are best suited for spiral blades. Any fretwork that incorporates straight, smooth lines and sharp points & corners doesn't lend itself readily to the use of spiral blades. Spiral blades tend to leave a little rougher cut edge, so I don't use them on anything that is thick enough that the cut edge is highly visible. The ability to use spiral blades seems to come more naturally to some than others. I taught myself to scroll using straight blades, but have been able to adapt to using spirals, without a lot of trouble. I know several veteran scrollers who won't use them because they can't control them. I think, like most skills, using spirals can learned, with practice.

Yeah Roly all I can say is word art is not the best project for any brand or type of spiral blade. They do have their place but word art is not it in my opinion.

Well I finally got around to finishing this project by Steve Good. A lot of cutting. Almost gave up a couple of times. Those wheels were the hardest. I made it out of Walnut and Maple base. I think I will keep this one for myself.

Asked Don at Old Crow scroll works to help me out here on this one. This is a show we have done for 10 years and really have a great time. Since this was their 50th anniversary I wanted to make something for them. Cut and gave this to them when we got there. They put it up by the beer booth where the music was and dancing going on. Got a kick out of it and they really enjoyed it a bunch. Thanks to Don for all his help. jim penquin

Just a reminder. i have been talking with a friend about it and got to looking at mine, been a while since I waxed it and had a load of oil from my hands on it. Sanded it down and waxed it up and now its just like brand new. Good weekend to do this.

I again used my pencil flame to add caricature. It is mounted on a log slab. John Old Dust

Thanks for sharing. Very nice work. I have a couple of friends that do body work. I'm not that talented.

Very nice job

Great idea Steve and the red backing makes the shape stand out. Roly

Looks super, like them. jim penquin

Really like that Steve. I'm thinking you should put hangers on the back so the kids can hang them on the wall when not working them. Well done.

Wax on wax off, RJ

I keep a spiral in a blade holder hangin' in the hanger of the Hawk just for getting a tight spot opened up for a flat blade to get started in, or for veining. Otherwise I very seldom use them. I keep different sizes on hand for different projects. Don't expect shiny results the first few times ya use them. They do take some practice. I've found the tighter the tension ya keep on them, the better they work. jmo.

Glad to see ya back Terry.Awesome work.Love the Church.

Wow and straight lines good work the only time I would use a spiral if it's to big to turn in the saw and I have no choice, I won't be doing fonts again with them in a hurry. Roly

Yes the tree of life was to heavy to scroll 36'',i tryed but it was too much and resorted to a jig saw with a narrow fine blade .a few pieces of the spruce branches broke of from vibration .i cut it vertical in my lap.the dewalt jig saw got heavy quick it took 27 hours of cutting just for the tree.The letters i cut 14" and 18 " on the dewalt scroll saw.

Some times I think I spend half my time waxing all my table tops. It truly makes a difference.

Roly's question; Is it the spiral blade or the user?" My answer: Yes, it is! Just kidding, Roly, I haven't really given spirals a fair opportunity and have only tried one blade but, I'm sure any attempts of mine would look MUCH worse than your example. I'm positive you could do it with more practice. God Bless! Spirithorse

I could have sworn that little dogs tail was wagging.Terrific work Terry,I'll never forget your J4sus Knocking at the door one!

Welcome back my friend. Beautiful work.

Super beautiful work. I envy you guys that do intarsia.

WB Terry. Those all look great. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

Nice work on all. I love the intarsia. I wish more folks would post there intarsia pics in this forum.

I use spirals for pieces that are too large for turning inside the throat of my saw. And being honest, I have butchered pieced a lot worse then that. I always cut my lettering with flat blades.

All 4 are nice; my favorites are the sitting dog and the church!

I prefer flat blades.. but I can cut most anything with either one.. I always called them cheater blades.. always thought there was no skill needed to use them.. apparently I am wrong though.. because I see many post like this.. and not just for spiral blades either.. I know people that can't stand flat blades.. guess I am gifted in that I can use either or.. This entire truck was cut using a 0/1 spiral blade.. I inserted it to do the veining.. but was too lazy to change to a flat blade to cut the rest of it out..

I can't seem to control a spiral blade. It has a mind of its own.

I don't know about the blades but got a good laugh out of your picture. If that's your worst cut I got you beat

Being a painter we used that all the time, also if in a pinch for a bandaid used the brown bag it will stop the bleeding, RJ

They look great Rob, nice work!

Been using it for years! After the first coat of spray Laqcuer, the brown paper bag will smooth out any dust nibs that may be left behind making it smooth for the next coat. Very effective!

awesome job

I like them !....Well cut !

My wife is always warning advising me with "Happy Wife, Happy Life".

There is a video on their web site that says something to the effect VS & Ultra series VRS the BM series.. they probably explain it best in the video.. I've always found it odd there is no mention of the G4 saw ( that I recall of ).. The ultra has a lower blade adjustment for aggressiveness.. so does the BM's.. but the BM's have variable adjusting.. where as the Ultra just has two positions to put your blade holder into.. Also the lower table angle and or the lower arm was redesigned and on the BM series the arm protrudes through the table angling mechanism where as on the older Ultras the arm is behind the table angle so I have to reach in behind the angle mechanism to change my blade etc.. They do have different motors as well.. otherwise.. same basic saw.. I also have a old 220VS that I bought last year Oct.. took me forever not to break blades on this saw too.. I'm sure it's just a learning curve for my ultra.. My 220VS is from 1993.. and my ultra is from 1998 according to Hawk.. Really like to sell both of my Hawks .. and get the new BM series saw.. But people aren't really paying much for the older Hawks.. while I only gave $100 for my 220VS and $400 for my 26 Ultra.. I'd probably be pressed to get much more than that from them.

Your a home body thanks for coming back!