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Cut from acacia eng flooring sample, framed by old oak kitchen cabinets with Tuscan stain, mounted on an old Ikea pine shelf

Pretty sure the patterns are from Bobscroll

I getting lot of orders for this camper welcome sign.They don't take to do,some of the make out cedar some out mapel.Also did a Corgi for someone

Well it is finally coming to an end. Last year in October I bought a air Filtration system for the shop and than at Christmas I received a Dust collector from my wife as a Christmas present. After I started the collector up in my shop I realized it was way too load to remain in the shop. I have added an exterior storage closet for it, I had the redesign the majority of the upper wall space in the shop to accommodate the 4" pipes. I ended up stopping on getting it up and running sense the weather turned hotter sense all I had left was the run the electrical to the machine and that was running through the hot attic. With the weather turning very nice over the past 2 weekends I was finally able to finish hooking it up. I was also able the get a dust collection hood built for my flexible drum sander this weekend. This drum sander is the biggest tool in the shop creating all the saw dust. It was nice late yesterday doing some sanding and not getting covered with dust. I still have to tie my chop saw, spindle sander, stationary sander, drill press & both scrollsaws into it. Everything is will be controlled by blast gates at each tool. I even installed an extra blast gate for when I am using the planer or bandsaw

The prototype is now done. Sue Mey pattern that I enlarged by 25% and added the name. The embellishments added by my wife. I have 18 more taped and ready to go for Christmas dinner place setting. There are 6 different patterns in set.

Got them painted today........the solar lights work well

Pretty much said in my manual when I had it, to keep it clean, brush it off once and a while and use it. My manual said it had sealed bearings no maintenance to do there, I do not know if you can add grease to sealed bearings. I don not know much about bearings. I did, (not mentioned in the manual maintenance section) every so often remove the clamp thumb screws, remove the tip, clean it and make sure it could turn pretty easily, clean the threads on the thumbscrew and in the clamp (pipe cleaner works) and add a small dab of "anti-seize" the threads of the thumbscrews... both top and bottom ones. Remember you are screwing a steel screw into aluminum. That needs care. Wax the table top once and a while. Check for loose bolts, screws and nuts. That is about it.

7 ¾" x 6 ¼" x 2"

Here's my cut of the sleeping tiger I think the picture was done by willustration. Cut by me / pattern by me.

I have been busy with a lot of things this last year and most of my projects have been utilitarian rather than fun scroll saw projects. I was able to make this puzzle and I finished it up on Fri night. Sat. my family had booth at a flea market, trying to get rid of old stuff etc. and I had a small table with what scroll saw and other art I had to sell. Not the best venue for this type of item but this little puzzle sold first and without haggling, they just payed the asked for price. I expected to be talked down a bit. It was the only scroll work I sold but I was ok with that. I also sold one of my Colored Pencil paintings. between all of us we were about $200 over booth costs. And the weather was perfect, wish it was the same throughout the country.

Try saw-online .Com fontana and San Diego both have clubs

Ray, not sure how old this list is but it might give you some leads. http://scrollsawer.com/clubs/wpbdp_category/scroll-saw/

Try Googling "scroll saw clubs near me". I got a hit for one in my area with that simple search. (It assumes you've given Google the ability to know where your computer is.)

Dgman is from the Southern Ca area, I believe. I know he's a scrolling instructor. He may know if any local clubs exist.

Back a few months ago, Pegas blades were the subject of several posts on this forum and other scrolling forums. Personally I've never used them, but generally speaking, the reviews were pretty positive, as I recall. They are definitely worth investigating. I would just warn against getting too many irons in the fire at one time, when it comes to testing blades. It's a journey and it took most of us years to develop our own personal bias'. Most scrolling supplies are best found on the internet and/or mail order. There are several good suppliers of patterns, blades, hardware and other scrolling specific items. I've mostly used Sloan's Woodshop and The Wooden Teddy Bear for Olson and FD blades. I can't say where to buy Pegas blades.

Thanks Wayne, I'll try that. I thought I had already done that but I'm old. I forget. What was the question again? Ray

Ray, you stated that you would be taking notes on the different blades you are or will be using and that will help you a lot. I would keep a log, pun intended, of the mfg., # of blade, teeth, tension, tight or not so tight, wood used, thickness, etc. This may seem like a lot of work but it would come in handy later on. Incorporate that information with one of the blade charts mentioned and what you yourself find out about different blades you use and you may end up with more information than you can use. lol. Other than this just pick and choose different blades till you fine one that works for you. Erv

I bought the Shop Fox portable dust collector I'll take a few photos tonight an will post tomorrow. I put a lot of thought into this system and read a ton on systems.

Very cool!

I think Bill did a great job of summing things up. Just make sure you spend enough time with a blade to adjust to the way it cuts. I remember my first cuts threw me for a bit as the blade did not cut straight like I expected it to. With some research I found out that most blades don't cut straight. so I learned to compensate.

I highlighted your statement above. That is really the only true way you will ever be able to determine for yourself, what works best for you. It's a process and it isn't as daunting as it may sound. No law says you have to try every blade out there, but the more you try, the better informed you will be. Blade preference can be very subjective. You can give 5 scrollers the same pattern and wood to cut and it's likely each one will use a different blade, so polling other scrollers will only get you so far. Take the info you've learned so far and run with it. Start with Flying Dutchman and Olson blades. Determine what type of scrolling you will be doing most. Blades with reverse teeth will be best suited for most fretwork, so that narrows down the options a little. Smaller blades for thin stock and fine detail. Thick blades for heavy cutting in thick stock. Skip tooth blades are often used for compound cutting, where you are cutting very thick stock, but don't have to worry about any tear out on the bottom side. Spirals work best for portrait type cutting, where there aren't a lot of straight, smooth lines or sharp corners/points. Puzzles and metal both have their own specialty blades. Generally speaking, the qualities you find in a particular blade will be the same in the other sizes of that same blade style/brand. There are some exceptions to this rule, but typically, the only real difference will be the thickness of material it's best suited for. Different brands will exhibit different characteristics, but the same general rules apply. You will quickly narrow down the candidates and get a feel for which blades to use for different applications. Good luck and have fun making sawdust.

Ray I like dumb questions. I always learn something from them.

very nice job

Yeah, I found that screw on my 26" saw and adjusted it.. no more blade breakage so far... but not on my older 220VS saw.. I'll look again but, I don't think I have one on the older saw..

Dan, they look great, but would you mind a small suggestion. I think that if you painted the interior back board orange, it would make them look even better. I may be wrong, it wouldn't be the first or second time and likely not the last. But, I'd like to see one done that way, just to see the difference. Len

Ray You may want to look at.http://scrollsawer.com/ they have a listing for scrolling clubs on their website.

I have been given the job of making more of these for the Riding for the Disabled Association.They are the names of the horses we use & are to go onto their stable doors,i still have another 7 to do. cheers Peter.

Those look great Peter and the perfect font for them. Well done. Marg

Well I like your suggestion also, I forgot and I did do that. I will also follow the same routines on my Seyco.

Not to mention, adding a dab, and just a dab, of Vaseline (or similar) to where the white tensioning lever meets the aluminum. When I bought both of my EX's, there was a dab of white grease there. Every so often, I'll clean that area and add clean Vaseline . I like Scrappiles suggestion of cleaning and anti-seizing the threads.

This same basic question was asked just a day or so ago.. still right on the first page.. You can download a manual etc for the EX's online.. there is a link in the other message about 10 - 12 messages below this one..LOL But to really answer the question.. I don't think there is really much maintenance needed on these saws.. I would think if anything it would be something to do with the tension lever.. the bearings etc are just needle type bearings that have grease in them.. I suppose one could take the whole saw apart and add a little grease every couple years or something... required.. not really.. they expect you to run it until you have a bad / noisy bearing and the replace the whole part with new bearings.. same basic design as my DeWalt saw.. as far as the insides and the arms etc..

I only have a lower barrel clamp. The upper is an older style with a thumb screw (that is new) and there is no way to adjust my Hawk either. Given the information my friends have provided, I have concluded that this movement is just inherent to this style of Hawk saw. The only place it is a bit of an annoyance is when I want to spin the work by placing the work against the rear of the blade and spinning it. It just moves that 1/32" and bugs the crap out of me. Maybe as my skill improves..... Thanks Mates!

I've been wanting to do one of his patterns since I started using my saw. I can't wait to order some more of his work. Very fun to cut. I used FD 2/0 spiral blades on 1/2 maple. BB backer. Spray poly finish.

CRAZY COOL!!!

Steal away, I'll even help you sneak out the door with 'em... here is an overview of how I built them. Puzzle Display Stands by Scott.pdf

Just watched your set up on Steve Goods channel, he as well as I think it was worth posting and watching. Thanks.!

Super job! That rustic stuff sure seams popular.

Hello Peter, You did really well on the stable plaques! Thank you for showing, Bob

Yes, I did design them......I got the solar lights on clearance last year.....I think I paid $2.99ea.......bought everything they had (25 or so)

Maybe? I have a older Hawk with the barrel clamps.. and I do not see that set screw thing like you mentioned in my post the other day.. I see no way to adjust this on my old Hawk.. because I think it needs it too.. but I didn't see no set screw.. is there one in a different spot? I hadn't had a chance to really look it over good.. but there isn't anything there on the same spot as my newer Hawk has..

Those signs sure look super!

Ray another suggestion would be to try and find other scrollers in your area. I was fortunate that a club had started up in my area not long before I started to scroll.

Neat! General Custer does not ride well anymore is the thing this brought to mind!

No you shouldn't, the bearings are sealed and greasing them will do no good. And other then the trunnions I've never seen a place on the saw, that requires grease or oil on the saw. I've owned my Ex saw for seven years, and I've never greased or oiled any part of it except for the trunnions. It has worked the very best over the years, and it's still working fine. Len

Like a couple of the others have said....There are no dumb question !

So much great info it's hard to digest it all. One of you mentioned "quirks". That's sort of what I meant when I asked the question. If a newbie has no idea what "quirks" are involved, well it's hard to decide what to fix and what is normal. As you have all pretty much said, it's experience and nothing will take the place of that. Ray

well, first of all, to make ya feel better, there ain't a dumb question, boss, unless it didn't get asked. When I started 25 years ago, I read a book about scroll sawing, & it said throughout it to get several blades & try them in different projects. There are a thousand ways to answer to your question, Ray. A good rule of thumb is the thicker the material, the bigger the blade. The thinner the material, the smaller the blade. And, the smaller the blade, the more tension. The bigger the blade, the less tension. We all have our preferred blades to work with. My preference is Olson & FD. Most all of my projects are hardwood. I plane my lumber to 1/2" or there abouts for most projects, unless a different idea strikes me. I use #2, #3, & #4 skip tooth blades as a rule. I cut my own feathers for my dream catchers from 3/16" planed wood. I'll use a #0 or #1 skip tooth for those. Fretwork usually about the same. For lettering & detail in projects, I'll use #0 - #3 polar blades because they are a thinner dimension blade, leave a smooth, clean cut, & less fuzzies to deal with. If I'm cuttin' outside cuts, or minimal designs, I use a #5 skip tooth blade. You'll find your blade size has a lot to do with your cutting speed & projects, & wood species. You just have to find a blade that works best for you & the type of cutting you do.

That came out great, like it. jim penquin

I will check that. Thank you

Looks great, well done. Marg