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Started my Christmas gifts early. I've down loaded several Schwiboggen plans and I thought I start with this one. 1/8" bb x 2 sides. Cutting wasn't too bad. Used 2.5" x 3/4" wide pine for base and 1/8 wide table saw blades for the slots. My artistic wife painted the outside. Found AA battery holder with switch on internet. Only place to find " grain-of-wheat" 3vdc lights at Amazon (200 in a pack) From China..... Initially bought 20awg wire but too stiff. Finally pulled apart a Ethernet cable 24AWG??? for leads. Lots of stripping and soldering. Hot Glue Gun'd wires in place. Used 16 bulbs. Battery tends to run down fast. May have to go to AA batteries or C instead. First attempt. Still learning/experimenting!

This pattern can be purchased From Scott @ www.WoodcraftByScott.com

Stack cut 3 of these from a Charles Dearing pattern, Put 1 in a frame I saved from being sent to the skip (dumpster), I do like Charles Patterns

A while back I saw a cup holder, and really liked the idea. I can't find the original post, so I can't credit the original poster. Anyway, I made my own design, and cut it out of 1/2" maple. The bottom is solid, with a recess drilled in with a forstner bit, so it acts as a trivet. Finished with spray on lacquer.

Had a little time so stack cut 3 of these today from Vinyl, coloured with spray cans

Moose sign left natural with letters painted black as requested jades from 3/4" plywood, cabin sign made from 1/2" plywood with 1/4* birch old or the lettering and and symbols, and a bunch of eagles made from 2 by's and 1/2" plywood. been a busy month so far with a few more projects to do.

I'm Mike. I haven't done any scroll sawing for about 20 years and am getting back into it. I love doing wood work but just finally got around to getting another scroll saw.

Meet my newest creature. I've had to create a new category on my website for Mythical Creatures for this one, the Dragon, the Unicorn, the Mermaids and soon the Fairies once I get a chance to cut them.

Finish this one up today,this one took me couple weeks to get this one done.Lot of oak,walnut and aspen,in this one,is one of Kathy Wise design enjoy

I like em, Frank !

Back at it and look'n mighty good!

Very nicely done Frank. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

Nicely done Frank. I like them all but the middle one is a slight favorite. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

Frank they all look Awesome!!I'm kinda taken with the middle one.

aI've used a 20 " fan with great results Every shop is different so try and see what works best for you .

I agree with Tonylumps, you got one heck of a deal. Congrats. Rumor has it the older style is a much better unit. I have had my Turbo 1 for almost a year. Every so often, I empty the filter bag, and blow it off with air hose. Good as new. Keep an eye on it though, because you'll be amazed at how quickly the bag fills. I use my vacuum mainly on my Scrollsaw and bandsaw . My hook up is very simple. I took a card board tube and strapped it underneath where the original dust port was (I have an EX21). I just shove the hose into the tube and away I go. You will really like your new machine.

For better flow, you might try sticking the hose inside the PVC by increasing the size of the PVC where it splits. With the piping you have you are choking down the flow. I designed this several years ago.

Thanks. I followed the link and found what you were referring to. I also printed out all the blade info and types. Should come in handy. Ray

I use 3 box fans with filters in the shop. Here's a picture. There's 20 incher with two filter on the window sill and 12 incher on the bench close to the saw.

Bill this is how I do it. Both fans are about $20 each at Wally World.

Loved this pattern when I saw it in Paul's (Scrappile) gallery when I first joined last year. Pattern by Tom Mullane. Finally got the nerve up to cut it. 12 1/2 X 17 inches, stack cut three in 1/8th " BB ply. Jeff

Back a few months ago, Pegas blades were the subject of several posts on this forum and other scrolling forums. Personally I've never used them, but generally speaking, the reviews were pretty positive, as I recall. They are definitely worth investigating. I would just warn against getting too many irons in the fire at one time, when it comes to testing blades. It's a journey and it took most of us years to develop our own personal bias'. Most scrolling supplies are best found on the internet and/or mail order. There are several good suppliers of patterns, blades, hardware and other scrolling specific items. I've mostly used Sloan's Woodshop and The Wooden Teddy Bear for Olson and FD blades. I can't say where to buy Pegas blades.

There was quite a discussion on this forum a while back about them. Lot of people like the "modified geometry". I purchase a sample pack and tried different sizes, but for the type of work I am doing they were just too aggressive for me. I do like their double tooth blades though. Here is one of the discussion threads, there were others also.

Ray, you stated that you would be taking notes on the different blades you are or will be using and that will help you a lot. I would keep a log, pun intended, of the mfg., # of blade, teeth, tension, tight or not so tight, wood used, thickness, etc. This may seem like a lot of work but it would come in handy later on. Incorporate that information with one of the blade charts mentioned and what you yourself find out about different blades you use and you may end up with more information than you can use. lol. Other than this just pick and choose different blades till you fine one that works for you. Erv

I think Bill did a great job of summing things up. Just make sure you spend enough time with a blade to adjust to the way it cuts. I remember my first cuts threw me for a bit as the blade did not cut straight like I expected it to. With some research I found out that most blades don't cut straight. so I learned to compensate.

I highlighted your statement above. That is really the only true way you will ever be able to determine for yourself, what works best for you. It's a process and it isn't as daunting as it may sound. No law says you have to try every blade out there, but the more you try, the better informed you will be. Blade preference can be very subjective. You can give 5 scrollers the same pattern and wood to cut and it's likely each one will use a different blade, so polling other scrollers will only get you so far. Take the info you've learned so far and run with it. Start with Flying Dutchman and Olson blades. Determine what type of scrolling you will be doing most. Blades with reverse teeth will be best suited for most fretwork, so that narrows down the options a little. Smaller blades for thin stock and fine detail. Thick blades for heavy cutting in thick stock. Skip tooth blades are often used for compound cutting, where you are cutting very thick stock, but don't have to worry about any tear out on the bottom side. Spirals work best for portrait type cutting, where there aren't a lot of straight, smooth lines or sharp corners/points. Puzzles and metal both have their own specialty blades. Generally speaking, the qualities you find in a particular blade will be the same in the other sizes of that same blade style/brand. There are some exceptions to this rule, but typically, the only real difference will be the thickness of material it's best suited for. Different brands will exhibit different characteristics, but the same general rules apply. You will quickly narrow down the candidates and get a feel for which blades to use for different applications. Good luck and have fun making sawdust.

Ray I like dumb questions. I always learn something from them.

Iggy hit most of the high points. You WILL get a feel for blade/species/thickness questions. My absolute go to blade is a FD-3UR. But, in my stuff are various sizes of FD, Olson and Pegas blades and I will switch depending on my feel at that point. There are some here who cut 95% with one size blade and that is their comfort level. They know what to expect and they can make the blade do their bidding. It seems to me that I am always about 1 size large than the consensus, but it comfortable for me and I can do what I want. I also keep my blade a little tighter than a lot of folks. Unfortunately, there is no set chart that has been published. It is up to the artist to choose their tool.