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I sold my plaque of the Holden car to a customer who asked me to also make him a plaque of a Harley so here is the result ,it is A4 size & cut with No3 skip tooth reverse blades which gave a cleaner cut than if I had used spiral blades,Hope he likes it .Also thanks to Grampa for the pattern.Cheers Peter ( Sorry posted in wrong section)

5 of these patterns are by Steve Good. I put together the Sea Bees cut. These cuts are for my local VFW Post. John Old Dust

Here's my cut of a cobra. Pattern by me.

Pattern is Charles Dearing's, stack cut two 1/8th inch BB ply. Measures 12 1/2 x 16 1/2. Not sure whether to frame or cut backer board for it Am also including pic of finished Viking #5 that Jan painted. Jeff

Hi everyone, Been hanging around here for a while but never posted anything. I've been scrolling for about two years now. I tried it around 30 years ago and it wasn't my cup of tea then. I dug out the old scroll saw and tried it again and it stuck. My old saw (a 35-40 year old Craftsman) died recently. I'm almost retired so I didn't want to spend a lot on a new one. Bought a PC from Lowes and it's not very good. Walked into my local Woodcraft today and they had four 21" Excaliburs that had just come in. Seems like there had been a mix-up with an order they placed over a year ago. Now they only have three! I got 10% off also including the stand. Just got it home and now I've got to assemble it.

I made me a pattern and started creating these, I used gimp. I sold 8 of these to the guy that owns our Local Track.

It was a fun pattern to do.Got rid of lot of scape wood I had laying around.Enjoy

Here's a few I finished. Sold some already. A couple are Sue Meys and some are Steve's Goods.

I designed this last year. Haven't had much time for pattern design lately. It hasn't been cut yet but my youngest daughter who thinks Halloween should be 24/7/365 has a long "want" list of patterns.

I only made one clock since scrolling. Don't remember where I ordered the motor and hands from. Paid for 1 and they sent 2. Both were junk. Vowed to never again make a clock. In retrospect, I should have made my own design for the area where the clock is. Decided that I'm smarter now. If any of you think that you want to make a clock, go to Walmart and buy your clock for a lot less money. Use the motor & hands and throw the case in the junk. When that one dies, repeat the process.

This is a modified Steve Good pattern. I changed "Boos" to "Booz" and did some pencil torching on the spook. John Old Dust

Howdy All. I thought it would be fun to start incorporating some Scroll Saw Challenges on SSV. So let's start off with a Halloween challenge! The theme for this challenge is "Halloween." Post your Halloween themed finished project, or a pattern you designed here. The theme is open to interpretation. You can post something spooky, harvest, or fall related project. When you post it, say a little something about it. Maybe a little story related to the project, what inspiration you took, materials or techniques used. It doesn't have to be elaborate. But it's nice to read a little about a project and seeing the picture or pattern. I'll start. I went back to MT recently and my dad got a new DeWalt scroll saw. I've been looking at upgrading mine (an old craftsman 16") and I figured I'd try his out to see how well I like the DeWalt. I picked this pattern from SSWW&C to test it out. It was a fun project. I dabbed craft paint on the surface, leaving the inside cuts raw wood. Then I used antiquing paste wax to distress it a bit. You can find the pattern here: http://scrollsawer.com/2017/08/01/nr-festive-jack-o-lanterns/

Did a craft show yesterday, wasn't good as last year, but ok did $200, there were over 200 crafters and vendors in attendance, weather was nice 82 degrees, and thousands of people attended. Sold some $20 and $25 items, and also some ornaments, and the $5 and $10 ornaments do help, and are good sellers for me. Sorry pictures wouldn't upload, but they uploaded on scrollers cafe. edward

All 3/4" plywood,rattle can sprayed,I keep forgetting to show the scroll saw paint shaker.One day it will happen,lol,I forgot one project ,But that's gone with the wind home with them.

Those are beautiful.

Last one done before tomorrows show. edward

Wow! That sure is some delicate cutting. Super job!

Holy cow! That Reaper looks more fragile than the viking! That is some awesome cutting! An congrats to your wife, she did an great job painting the Viking Warrior. When you said she was going to paint it, I had reservations, but I really like it.

I love it!

Great job, whose pattern is it and where can I get it? Jeff

Good points Jim, regarding direction and type. I used to fix all of my own audio gear and electronics. Had a collection of Sam's manuals. Now everything is mostly proprietary modular IC's . Cheaper to buy new than repair even if you could get the parts. I Still love fixing stuff. My crawling around under cars, at least on my daily driver are over, too many years digging blue stone out of my back from crawling around under the car in rain or slush. I don't even do my own oil changes anymore. My 70 TVR is the exception but it is a toy.

WHOO WEEE!!! That's a loot of holes.You did an AWESOME JOB.

Now this I like.Very Cool pattern.This one will be on my ToDo list.

Yeah.........NO. I hate snakes. But great work anyway. Marg

I just mailed this out.. custom ordered as a bosses day gift.. Lucky Boss.. Now.. onto the next custom order.. a 67 Chevelle clock..

Looks great they will be happy with that. Marg

Nice cutting thanks for sharing

That is what I used along with compressed air. Seems like the brake cleaner is the only decent solvent left.

very nice, thats a lot of holes to drill and cut

great job

Dave, I don't see anything wrong from where I live. Great job. I know what you mean about spiral blades. I just can't get used to them. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.

Looks great. Jeff

Are the guide bearings set correctly?(had to ask) they should only come into play when the blade is deflected not continuously. I just bought a bunch of cheap bearings for the fidget spinner project and it looks like they were dipped into a warm liquid grease bath and then sealed It took a bit of effort to get all of the grease out.

love the lettering !

There is nothing wrong with that baby, you did a terrific job. Marg

Not normal for me to make the holes like this.. I had planned to use spiral blades.. when i started drilling so the holes were of proper sizing.. but after drilling some of these I realized that some of these were very close to each other and I didn't think the spirals would make the piece look right.. so I used a flat blade.. Plus.. for what it's worth.. The camera setting I use to take my photos shows way more detail than what the naked eye shows.. so.. these holes really aren't as noticeable in person.. I use the Micro setting (think that's what it's called ) for super close up detail.. sometimes that setting does more harm than good.. LOL This piece is only about 6.5 inch wide.. so the car itself is only 4.5 or so inch.. I shrunk the original design down from 22" wide.. design was originally for metal work on a CNC.. customer wanted smaller size. but was happy with what they got.. I doubt if I make it again I'll do it that small.. so really it was a mistake in judgement on my end.. Ideally it would be best to cut around 10" - 12 which is kind of bulky for a desk clock in my opinion anyway..

I bought a new Grizzly bandsaw last year.. I've only made 4 simple bandsaw boxes and the guide bearings are already gritty and stiff.. they are also sealed bearings.. and for what it's worth.. the bad ones are the lower ones where all that sawdust lands.. I did pop the seals out and soaked them with wd-40 cleaned them up and re=greased them.. been working fine since then.. but really haven't used it much.. probably about the same amount as those 4 boxes is all.. but still still smooth running.. I question the grease they use from those China made bearings, LOL

Looks nice to Dave thanks for sharing

Dave, if you did this piece using spiral blades, then you definitely don't suck at using them. This little Datsun looks amazing, there's no wonder the customer likes it. Len

Dave, You might want to get your eyes checked, I can't see anything wrong with that. Lovely job and well up to your usual high standard! Rob

Great 280Z. They were a beautiful car as is your cutting. I'm impressed.

Pattern and cutting look great. What are you complaining about Thank you for sharing Sam

Super job!

For me I notice the larger the piece gets, the heavier it will be. With that extra weight I sort of lose the feel for the wood and its starts to get sloppy. If I did the same piece smaller I would have no issues. Also with big pieces you have to be farther from the front of the saw so again, i lose the feel for it and its starts to get sloppy. Many like spiral blades but then again, i think they can get sloppy and wash out some of the detail but thats just me, result will vary with them. I consider the larger pieces a challenge t figure out how I can make them in smaller pieces and then assemble them into larger finished items.

I have always been a FD guy.....the FDUR and the FD new spiral are my go to blades.....I recently bought some Pegas MG blades #3 & #5........I like the Pegas blades in thicker hardwoods .....Just my two cents worth !

Ok, I'll play. I made these as Halloween night light for grandkids.

That is a 1K (1000) ohm pot. Back in my day any TV repair shop would be able to help. If there are any small electronic manufacturers in your area they MIGHT be able to help. If you are real brave and know how to solder electronics, a place like Digi-Key will have what you need for about a dollar or two.

Yes, and this is where the Ex- type saw will last longer before needing bearing attention.. On a dewalt.. the sawdust falls through the hole in the table and lands directly onto the lower rocker assembly.. as well as the older Ex's.. but the newer Ex's have the little dust port.. that I would think even not hooked up to a collection system still will catch much of that dust before landing onto the bearings and rocker assembly.. On the saw like Hotshot's that has that shielded bearing.. a shielded bearing is just that.. shielded.. it's not really and open bearing like a DeWalt, Ex type saw.. but.. this bearing in encased into the arm and isn't necessarily exposed to a large amount of dust anyway at the back of the saw.. between the shield ( which by the way sort of acts as a shield to keep dirt etc out but not totally sealed either ) and the saw body / arm etc.. I really doubt much get's into the bearing if any anyway.. At the front of the Hawk.. where the dust is more than likely to get into a bearing.. Hawk used sealed bearings. To rebuild a Hawk saw's bearing I believe you'd need about $20 at best.. to replace the 4 bearings.. while a dewalt saw you need sleeves and bearings.. which run $175 to replace the 25 bearings and 25 sleeves.. I think if one had parts on hand etc.. one could do the job in about 30 min. on a Hawk.. Probably if you was real good and quick.. one could do the DeWalt in about 1-1/2 - 2 hours..

I was curious what Ray at Seyco had to say about the bearings in a Seyco saw. The instruction manual does not address any maintenance for them. So I emailed and asked, this is his response: "Hi Paul. The bearings are classed as "permanently lubricated". My personal opinion is that is not a good classification when it comes to placing any bearing in a wood saw dust environment, however, I am not as much focused on re-greasing as I am on keeping the dust from accumulating on the bearings and in the area where they are more open to dust. Cleaning should be done some satisfactory way other than blowing with an air hose since that tends to actually blow the grease out. Use a brush or similar method is better. Let me know if there are remaining questions regarding the bearings and care for them. Thanks, Ray Seymore SEYCO, The Scroll Saw Specialists, INC." I think this would applies to the Ex and probably the the DeWalt.

Never had a need for a rip fence. Did you find that moving your projects around on your auxiliary tops difficult? If you want to use one put some Formica on it for a slick surface.