Leaderboard

Ash, Maple, Cherry and Yellowheart, not oiled yet. Glue still needs to set.

Cut from 5.5mm Ply with #7 Pegas Modified, Framed with a frame I rescued from the bin and re-furbed.

My brother past away last Saturday and I'm not able to make the funeral, don't have the money right now to fly back to the States. I cut this for his youngest daughter and his grandson.

I believe that this is a Steve Good pattern. John Old Dust

I love the Noel pattern that was in the latest issue of SSW&C issue. So I cut it yesterday. This is mine, just one of many that have been posted here. Mine is all cherry. Finished with a soak in 50/50 BLO/MS. It was quick and fun to cut.

See this go on Steve Goods site and knew someone who would want one so cut it in vinyl to add a bit of vinyl chippings to the floor as it has not had any for a little while. Glad I stack cut 3 as two of them where taken by my daughter and son as soon as they was finished .

Had a few scraps of pallet wood roughly 5" x 4" from the viking chair I done so made these quick rather than let it go to waste.

Loctite was not holding screw # 45 in this image. Bought a longer set screw from a hardware store & put a lock nut on the part that extends beyond the clamp. Screw is M6 X 20 - 1 Pitch. Nut is M6 - 1 Pitch. jerry

I was going thru my patterns and found this one for my friend that's getting married January 15,And i was chosen to be the best man !!!Airomatic cedar and then i cut the tree with out my jig that disappeared in the clutter here.Our own Travis did the ur the key to my heart long ago.

Several weeks ago, the last of the Monarch Butterflies started their journey south to Mexico and the last one left my area. I really like them and have planted Milkweed and many other flowers to attract them. Since they are gone, I decided that I needed to make my own Monarch on a Flower for winter months. The pattern for the Monarch came from Steve Good’s website. I used the pattern to cut out two wings from 1/8” Baltic Birch Plywood and carefully sanded the wings. The wings were painted black. Now, I just needed to put the orange color in the wings. I thought about doing an orange inlay but with the number of parts and the small size knew it would be very difficult for me. I finally decided on filling the holes in the wings with epoxy dyed orange. I took me too many trials but finally ended up using a medium setting epoxy with just a touch of orange Rit Dye powder. The body for the Monarch was a small piece of walnut which I turned on the lathe. Small holes in the head and paint brush bristles were glued in for the antenna. Gluing the wings on the body was one of the most difficult parts. I marked on the body where the wings would go and drilled several shallow small diameter holes and similar holes on the edge of the wings. The holes would make the epoxy have a greater grip. I cut a V-Shape in a 2x4 block which was the angle I wanted the wings and used it to hold the body and wings while the epoxy hardened. I also drilled a small hole on the bottom of the body for the wire to hold the Monarch. The flower is made pine shavings. These shaving were about 1-1/2” wide and on the thick side. These were glued around a short dowel to make the flower. The leaves were also made of pine shavings. The base for the Flower and Monarch is Red Oak and made so that an Acrylic 5-sided box would fit over it and protect it from dust and damage.

customer hazs a rental house and this kind sweet little ol lady lives there.I found out tomorrow is her 86th birthday.Surprize !!!Her name is blanche and favorite color is rose

been a while since ive been here! now with the holidays approaching and the winter season near, ive fired up the scrollsaw after it being dormant for a few months. first projects of the season out the door today. these were a little difficult for me, mainly cutting the letters and numbers. very tedious and time consuming doing those. still gotta find me an after holidays keep me busy for the winter project.

I have just recently purchased a used Fein and the Dust Deputy. I am going to be plumbing it so that when I am using my scroll saw, the Fein will be connected to the DD. I am going to "T" off to be able to use the Fein to also clean around the shop. I want it to be multi-use. But everything will still end up in the DD. Not the Fein. It does seem to me though, to answer the original question, that it is a simple matter of flipping the switch from "auto" to "on" when doing fret work. Or just leave it on "auto" when doing anything else. Ray

Yeah Paul I agree with your logic especially when cutting fretwork. Some cuts on fretwork only take a matter of a few seconds and I think that shutting off a vac and turning it back on again it that type of scenario is just not a good idea. I believe your reasoning on undo wear is sound. The scroll saw turning off and on is a situation we can't realistically do anything about why add to the wear factor? JMHO

I would leave it on myself.

Had me worried for a bit thinking you may be a single man. LOL

I have made, and wear a lot of wood earrings. Most of mine are made out of 1/8 or 1/4 inch hardwoods. I also typically spray with lacquer or clear acrylic. A tip for spraying, place a piece of tape sticky side up, stick the earrings to it, then spray. Sometimes the little pieces will move around from the force of the spray. As melanie mentioned, weight is important for earrings. Heavy earrings start to hurt after a while. I have been presently surprised by how light most of the designs that I have made end up being. Wood earrings are often lighter then they appear. I would also recommend that you spend just a bit more on the earring hardware and get silver ear wires. It will cost a bit more, but is a selling point for many women.

Paul No science or logic to my opinion but I have been using auto off and on with scroll saw for several years with no problem. If you have not done so I strongly encourage you to get an Oneida Dust Deputy to place between the saw and vac. With the Dust Deputy almost no saw dust goes through to the vac and a clogged filter is probably harder on the vac then on/off with the saw.

I have the Fien VS vac. I stopped using it on my scroll saw .Instead I use a fan with a filter on th back of the saw and a angled blower nozzle with compressed air . Very little dust escapes this set up. About once every half hour the 60 gallon compresser kicks on and scares the daylight out of me. I have the Regulator set at 35# for the saw and it works out great.To get back to your question.I have been running my Fien on tool Start for 1 1/2 years now with no effect at all.That is what they were made for.Whether you are sanding ,sawing, drilling.Now if you don't mind the saw running all the time, then use a remote. I think a remote works better.i have them for the fans and use it to run the vac for my lathe.

I think leaving it on would keep something from wearing out. Use the auto shut off and on for longer running machines...Thats my take.

Paul, I'm not an expert on vacs, but I do have my dust collector hooked up to my scroll saw. I have it hooked up to a remote control. I turn it on when I start cutting and leave it on until I'm done cutting. A dust collector is a lot quieter than a vac, but it can still be loud. When I'm scrolling I either am listening to music or a NASCAR race or football game, so I always have headphones on.

Even though I'm nearly deaf, even with my hearing aids turned off a continuous running vacuum would drive nuts.

Very well done, Paul. I like the addition of the base.

Shoot Jerry, I thought you were getting rid of the wife.

Paul,Awesome job.Love the Snowflake.Looks like that part took a little time.

Just looks So Cool!! Love it.

Frank,They look Awesome!!

Frank,you did a Fantastic job with Roly's patternLove it.

Very nice!

Looks great Paul!

I even got a job from her friend because of breaking the ice with her! You just never know what will come of your actions like this.Thanks Phantom!!!

Some of the best years of my life was on inferior saws.Not knowing there was better out there.I had a blast being creative .When i traded some scroll work and intarsias for a dw788 ,I got it home plugged it in and flipped the switch on .Waiting for the noise to start i flipped the switch again.Low an behold the saw was running and silent as could be .I was astonished that a scroll saw could be this quite.The years on cheap saws sure made moving up such a pleasure.I wouldn't have had it any other way.

I got a brand new ryobe on craigs list 13 " for $100 used once!It has reverseable blades too.Love it ,Sounds just like a tree chipper

$3300 I could live with. $33,000 might be a bit outside my budget since I just make stuff to give away.

You know, i never thought of stack cutting records,Great idea,Thanks !

your right on the money with the patterning work anyway.Great job!

Yes, after thinking about it, it must have been $33.000. Quite a machine.

Let nothing go to waste! Great job.

Very nicely done Frank. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Very well done and I always like the use of "rescued" wood. That was rescued twice; so must be twice as good!

Great pattern and cut they will treasure that for sure , Sorry for your loss.

I see this in your library too is it your pattern I found on images in google lol

Very sorry for your loss. You did a wonderful job on the pattern and cutting. I am very sure they will appreciate.

Like I've said before, you can give 6 veteran scrollers the same project, using the same wood and they will each use a different blade. My go-to blade, of the Olson persuasion, for general fretwork with a fair amount of detail is the Mach Speed #3. For really fine detail, in thinner material I would use a #2 or #2/0 reverse tooth blade. However, I've been using more FDUR blades lately and wouldn't hesitate to cut that with a #1 FDUR. See? I can't even agree with myself which blade I would use.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the assistance and the offers. Ray has offered to make one for my friend. If Ray doesn't share an image of the finished product, I will.

Dave I found this information for you on beginner's learning to do headstands: https://www.doyouyoga.com/a-beginners-guide-to-headstands-14010/ plus apparently, there are a large number of Youtube Vidoes on the subject as well Just take your time and make sure the saw is against a wall and you "lean" against the saw for support until you get it right and gain enough core strength to do without the support. Of course you are going to need to do it with your front facing against the saw/wall rather than your back so you can actually "see" to insert the blades unless you also want to learn to become a contortionist. When i was young, I could do headstands all day, no support but now - after 2 cervical fusions, I try to stay off my head. Congratulations to you on your new saw. I look forward to hearing about your learning/working with it. i hear its a great saw from some great experts around here so I hope you will be happy with it.

I have a Dust Deputy that I use to use on my shop vac. Had it mounted with the vac, but in my little shop it was just to cumbersome to move around (made the footprint of the shop vac larger). The Dust Deputy worked good, sure cut down on the frequency of having to clean the filter, which is one job I hate.

????? Way over my head. I just know if I plug the tool into the Fien, the Fein will start 3 seconds after I start the tool and turn off 15 seconds after I turn the tool off. If I knew what you are asking, I wouldn't have the question.

I built a stand for my new Delta. My normal sitting position is with the legs outstretched. Made a foot switch. 1 photo shows a rocker type household light switch, mounted at the angle of the bottom of my feet. Also the mountings for 2 hinges. The hinges line up with the center of the switch. Another photo is from the back of the stand, with the treadle on. 4 screws on the bottom of the board. Two wood screws activate the switch. Two lag screws limit the travel, in both directions. This is to prevent wrecking the switch. All 4 screws could be adjusted to change the angle of the treadle, but through dumb luck, they were right the first time. The carpet on the near side goes down to the floor, to keep sawdust out of the switch. The picture of the whole thing: The treadle is wide enough to operate with 1,2 or all 3 of my feet. Heater at the very top. an "arm" off to the right with an upright attached. The saw is 20" and the upright is 21" away from the blade. I have been reading about your posts about blades occasionally slipping out of a clamp. Someone said that they sand the ends of a new blade to roughen it up. On the upright is a stick with sandpaper put on with spray adhesive. 4 usable sides. It can be switched upside down, and/or flipped over. What looks like a screwdriver handle above the Kleenex is actually an awl for marking holes to be drilled. Just played with it a little late today. I was as contented as a sparrow with a fresh horse dropping!! Haven't yet, but instead of waxing the table, I will sand it and give it 2 coats of spray on clear enamel. Time will tell if that works or is a dumb idea. No drink holder because of the sawdust. jerry

I did another one, I hope you don't mind.