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Made this with leftover Baltic Birch scraps. edward

You can purchase pattern from www.WoodcraftByScott.com

So... Long story short, a tourist shop in Wilmington, the "big city" near me wants to stock some of my puzzles. She mentioned that anything with WILMINGTON or NORTH CAROLINA are very popular, so I called Harvey and have him putting WILMINGTON in the body of the swimming mermaid for me and in the meantime I showed the owner of the shop this simple thing I've made a couple of times. I didn't keep it in stock at my shows since it wasn't a puzzle although it had proven to be somewhat popular. I simply found a detailed outline of my state, found a font I liked and laid it out so that it would stand up straight and level. Then I used a wood burner to put a heart over our location. I had done it for a couple of other nearby states but never displayed or tried to promote them. But if you do craft events, you may want to consider doing it for your home state. Quick and simple. She loved it, so I just made 6 of them to deliver to her tomorrow.

I finished this in August. It was a special request from my grandkids as a gift to Papa for Fathers Day, but of course I got sick, so Fathers Day got postponed for a week or so. Stack cut 2 gave the other to a friend that is a Dr Who nut. Anyway the pattern was done by @Aggie for me, so thanks Terry it was well received. Cut from 2.5mm bamboo with 2/0 reverse tooth Olson blades. Marg

Now the horses are about 2 inches high, whereas the Reindeer is about 8 . The ornament is by Steve Good.

This is a modified Steve Good Pattern. My wife is known as "Tiny". ( 4ft 7 in 72 lbs) I also changed the lettering since I do not like Stencil font. The backer is from a kitchen cabinet door A good source of free wood is your local kitchen cabinet remodel er. The old cabinets can make good desk name signs too. John Old Dust

Here are some pictures of my latest work. One is a trophy a guy ordered for a slot car race. He lives in New Mexico, and I am from North Carolina. A lady my wife knows asked if I could build a Chevette, I asked my wife do you mean Corvette. She asked the lady again, no She said Chevette. It was for her husband, he has always liked them, she said especially the Woody Version. The 09, 17, and 27 were bought for Christmas Presents. I also made an Earnhardt Jr. Not sure who will be getting it yet. Of all these, I think the one I hate to get rid of the most is the Chevette. Funny how that works.

Posted a racoon in the tree in the intarsia section a few days ago. Neighbor wanted one for his granddaughter so made one up. Changed three basic things. Cut the patterns with Pegas blades (3 reverse) rather than FD (3 reverse). The FD's in my hands gives a much better precision cut. Two, changed the forehead and other body parts from white oak to ash. Thought the ash turned out a little better. Thirdly, sprayed the first with Valspar satin and the second with Rustoleum satin. The Rustoleum is so much glossier approaching a true gloss finish. Oh well.

Simple design from 2x4's.....used 1x4 scraps for hat.....I only used the scroll saw to cut templates for mouth, eyes, & nose....spray painted....added ribbon & pine cone for added detail...

Finished this Nativity Napkin Holder, put a different bottom on from the original pattern. I think this would be a good seller, and it is a Sue Mey pattern. edward

Customer wanted this so i used used 3/4" pressure treated used fence from the last hurricane that knocked it down.22" long box 19" dog the ears are attached separate

Two and a half ago my best friend, Mike, died unexpectedly in his sleep at age 73. This was Mike's "life verse" and he genuinely lived it. I decided I would design and make a plaque for his widow. To keep it from being grotesquely large the letters had to be quite small. The plaque measures 14" x 8". (The second photo shows a dime in the picture for size perspective.) I made it 1/2 way through the first attempt in cherry before losing a "drop out" and creating some firewood. This second attempt was in Jatoba wood (AKA Brazilian cherry) which has interlocking grain and is less inclined to fail at one of the bridges. This was cut with Flying Dutchman #1 Ultra Reverse blades and I went through 12 of them for this piece. (Jatoba dulls blades incredibly fast.) I found the small letters to be extremely challenging. It is finished with Watco oil and wipe-on Poly.

I thought I'd share this link for those who don't follow The Carmichael Workshop. Steve Carmichael is one of the thousands for individuals who've taken to making YouTube videos. In the last year he's posted more scroll saw projects. He just posted this video which features 15 different picture frames make with the scroll saw. Hope this is useful to some of you.... http://www.thecarmichaelworkshop.com/2017/10/make-15-picture-frames-with-scroll-saw.html

Check with a heating and air conditioning company near you they often have them from furnace replacements and usually have to dispose of them, that's where I got mine . I have been using it for probably ten years with no problem.

I have several of my machines on HF caster frames. However any machine where I need to apply LATERAL pressure I do not have casters. Even the frames with brakes will slide if pushed to hard and that with a power tool is just to dangerous. Russ https://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-capacity-mobile-base-95288.html

I do both.. just depends on the situation... It's quicker and easier to just drill them.. but.. you need a nice sharp drill bit or it can tear out.. also drill into another piece of wood to help from tear out on the last one.. I probably just saw the majority of them simply because it takes time to set up the drill press for drill the hole.. then set it back up to drill pilot holes etc.. The holes I really like are the oval shaped ones from the ornaments I've designed myself.. this way it's a bigger hole and I don't feel it's as noticeable if it's not a perfect circle LOL.. At any rate.. make them however works best for you..

i really should set something up better than what i have but my nose is clean inside so i guess what im doing is good enough?I don't smell saw dust and if i do i know i forgot to turn the exhaust fan on.

Link,Drive (286269-00) number 28 is the nut that comes off use loctite and put back on.click on the dw788 type 1 and picture 1 and look for nut 28.

ya I was giong to drop close to a C note but a trade for one of my 45+ pieces clogging up my basement is a much better score...and I can tell the difference already, makes the air much cleaner as I strapped an old furnace filter to the back side of it with bunji cords....did a bunch of table saw work and lets just say that I took the filer off and it was shocked as to how much dust was trapped in the filter when I knocked it against the compost bin. next up a dust collector that is not to big....

so as it turns out I go there and he shows it to me and it works great, didn't have a filter but that is not a big deal. I end up settling on a price slightly lower than asking and he said what do you need it for. I say I am an avid scroll saw guy and wood worker in general, he says can I see pictures of your work. I show him stuff and he says my wife would love that and that....I said well if you give me my money back you can have either one of those.... guy reaches back in his wallet and gives my money back to me. I like trades... This thing works really well the only trick is that I have to get a filter that fits or simply make sleeves for a larger size filter to fit on the outside. I think this is going to help out a lot but the floor space is at a premium so I will have to utilize it such a way to optimize space so I am going to mount a tool on it, perhaps my grinder which occupies a valuable space in my garage but barley ever gets used by me...

Ray, I made a box to fit a discarded furnace blower (Free) and installed double 16"x 20" furnace filters ahead of the blower intake and it lives under my workbench, I have found it to be very effective at removing dust in the air in the shop, I have found that the first filter catches the majority of the ambient dust so I just throw the first one out and move a new one in back of the stack. Works well for my needs

My problem twice was the main con rod assembly, the bearing, coming off the motor. Mine is a type 1 also. I changed it out again and it runs nice quiet and smooth. I tried replacing just the bearing but it didn't work. So I replaced the whole piece. Got it from ereplacement.com for $30.

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/tls/d/dust-filter/6313489522.html gonna go look at this home made dust filter tonight. anyone have one of made one on their own? the guy says that it catches ambient air and filters it through the blower fan and out. In the pic the guy states that the square hole that you can see on the outside of the unit is where you change the filter, its on the outside wall. thoughts? I am planning to use this in addition to getting a dust collector system or some of the other products that I see you folks talking about here (fein and dust devil). The issue I have is that I have so many tools that create the dust and not all of them have dust collection ports and even the ones that do are not getting all the dust into the two shop vacs that I have to hook up to various tools. Just getting tired of the dust and I know its not good for my health even though I wear a half mask when operating the equipment. I am getting a new excelsior 30 inch saw this week and it does have a port. thanks in advance

Cut from vinyl stack cut 3 with Spiral #3 Olsen for a friend down the road to give to her soldier son

Depends on the size of the hole. Smaller ones I drill like less then 1/8". Using a backer board and sharp clean but is great sound advice. Most of them though I cut out.

Nicely done Paul, have to love the cherry wood. Jeff

My shop is heated and cooled with a window mount style heat pump mounted high and through the North wall of my shop. I discovered that 12 X 20 X 1 furnace filters will fit behind the plastic front grille and completely cover the evaporator coil, so now I buy the best quality pleated furnace filters for it and my heat pump now performs well as my shop air filter too. I change this filter about once per month and just looking at it after a month shows that it's doing a very good job. It's trapping some really fine stuff that just changes the color of the filter material. My re-purposed whole house central vacuum with a Dust Deputy ahead of it is vented outside, so anything that gets past the Dust Deputy and the fabric filter inside the central vacuum gets blown outside the shop so I never have to breathe that dust either. This vacuum system is mounted in the attic of my shop because there is no room for it in my crowded shop. It has the central vacuum pipe and inlets in the shop walls so it's all completely out of the shop space. I really have no room for a larger dust collector. I use the central vacuum for every tool except for the Unisaw, Jointer, and planer. My DeWalt 735 planer is never used inside the shop and I have the hose and fabric barrel cover for it that I attach to a plastic 55 gallon barrel (to keep the chips out of the neighbors pool). It works great, if the fabric cover stays on the barrel. The jointer has a chute under it that drops the chips into a small waste container, and the Unisaw collects most of it's sawdust in it's lower cabinet and I shovel it out every couple of months. I added an inlet port to the outside of my shop next to the passage door, so I can vacuum my cars and trucks with it too. The original long hose gets hung from large hooks strategically placed in the shop ceiling when routed from distant tools to one of the shop inlet connections, so it's usually completely out of the way, and only on the floor when I'm vacuuming the shop floor. I think this arrangement is about the best that I can do in my very small 14 X 26' shop. I'm certainly not suffering from "sawdust nose" any more. Charley

That's some great work there. Well done Don W

When you buy the locking casters, make certain that the lock controls not only the wheel but also the swivel. If you don't lock the swivel the tool will move on you as the caster rotates. BTDT. Buy the right casters the first time and save some money. Charley

Great job on all. Thank you for sharing Sam

wonderful job

Very nice job on an nice pattern. I like the blue backer.

They look great.

I have a few almost life time friends and I lost one myself about four years ago. You can not replace those people in your life because of all the time and things you did together. There are few people that come into one's life that you know beyond a doubt that this person would do anything for you and you for them. You love them so much and you know each other so well.. the two of you accept the good, the rough side of each other and know so much about each other's private lives. No amount of money can buy another them, but you will always have the great memories you shared together that no one can take from you and you will never stop remembering for the rest of your life. Right now there is a hole in your heart and tear in your eye when you think about him, but now is the time to talk to God and thank Him that he put this person, that is so dear to you, in your life. I am so sorry whenever I hear about someone like this life long friend leaving this world and us behind. But I believe some day we will back together again for all eternity and we can start to rebuild new memories as we worship our God together for all eternity. Bless you and I will put you and his family in our daily prayers Dick heppnerguy

Thanks for showing the final product, you did a great job.

Fabulous work Joey. Marg

You have some serious talent there!

The background is a scrapbook sheet of the sky. John Old Dust

Another super job frank.

I do the glue up one often. I get cherry, maple, and a few other woods from a guy on Ebay. He sell like 20-30 boards in a box. He sells 1/2", 1/4" thickness, the pieces are 12" long and you can get in different widths usually from 2 1/2" - 4". I have always received good wood from him. Goo service. Various prices depending species thickness and width requested. I have always paid less than $45 with free shipping. Very sorry for your loss of your friend. Unfortunately, the older we all get, the more frequently it occurs.

Very cool Frank Nice pattern.

Very nicely done Monti. Thanks for sharing these with us. DW

Yes, Len. I make all of my own patterns.

Welcome to the Village, Kerri !

I normally stack cut three pieces. I stack them up and tape them together with clear package tape. I will tape around two inches on the bottom, over the top and two inches on the bottom of the other side.

What did you finally find wrong with that connecting rod? I can't see anything wrong and the bearings are all in good condition. I'm going to go back through and make sure I didn't miss something. I don't necessarily want to run my saw at that high speed but I'm a nut about things not working right when they should. I gotta fix it.

You should also make certain that your saw is adjusted so that the blade is truly vertical in both the side to side as well as front to back direction for accurate stack cutting. Side to side adjustment by moving the table is easy. The front to back adjustment is much more difficult on many saws and may not be possible on some saws. The thicker your material, the more important that these adjustments become necessary. On a DeWalt 788 the front to back blade angle requires filing the mounting holes of either the top or bottom yellow arms where the silver blade mechanisms attach. Most often, this is needed on the lower blade arm. Filing the holes so that the silver mechanism can be moved toward the motor by about 1/2 the diameter of the existing hole is usually all that is required. Then re-attach the blade mechanism, slide it back and test the saw for the blade to be at 90 degrees front to back to the table with the blade tensioned using with a small machinists square or 1-2-3 block (a machinists tool consisting of a block of metal that is very accurately ground to be 1" X 2" X 3" in size) You can buy a pair of these blocks on Amazon for less than $20 plus shipping, and they are handy for many kinds of machine adjustments or measurements. You may need to loosen the lower blade mechanism, move it slightly and tighten the bolts several times to get the right position, but the trouble is very worthwhile if you will be stack cutting or compound cutting on the saw. Setting the side to side angle can also be done with a small machinists square or 1-2-3 block and moving the table tilt adjustment until the table is at a perfect 90 degrees to the blade. Don't trust the table tilt scale to get this right. It can be off by several degrees and you need it about as perfect as you can get it. Once the blade is at a perfect 90 degrees to the saw table in both directions you should have no trouble at all sliding your cut pattern out of the waste in either direction. This is the true final test, but it can also fail if the blade tension isn't high enough or you push the work into the blade too hard when cutting, causing the blade to bend under the pressure. Keep the blade tension high and let the blade do the cutting. The tiny blade teeth can only remove a small amount of wood at a time. Feed the work into the blade to keep it cutting but don't force it. Scroll sawing is one of the slowest ways of wood cutting, but it can be very precise and rewarding once you learn the basics, and patience is one of those basics. Charley

I also have a Type 1 that I bought new approx. 15-20 years ago. It has been a great saw but it does get to shaking pretty bad above 5 or 6. I've tried the lubing, etc and nothing helps. But on the positive side I just haven't seen a need to use it above 5. It cuts plenty fast and certainly aggressive enough so I just stopped worrying about it. It's probably been that way for the last 10 years. I'm a top feeder (I think that's right...I keep the bottom of the blade attached all the time and loosen the top arm for all those inside cuts) and I find that to get really tight tension on the blade I have to push the top arm down till it quits moving, then attach the blade. If I just attach the blade where ever the arm stops it won't get tight. Don't know if that makes sense.