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A customer suggested a planter to resemble a vintage truck. I liked the idea. After searching to no avail for a pattern; I turned to my old source T & E designs. After a large amount of trial and an overly abundant amount of errors; the photos are the result. It is made from rescued cedar fence material. The size is 14 inches long, 7 inches tall and 5-1/4 inches wide. The rjR standard unless instructed not to by the customer, the light torching was also applied. The clay pot is a standard 4" form H-D. I may have to try to make some ???? Patterns from this. I will be making a few more of different styles as I bought 4 pots. As always ideas and suggestions are appreciated.

My wood suppler that moved 2.5 hours away gave me an order for more stars.I told him i could not do this size years ago ,but as hungry as i am now i said ok .Little did i know he wanted 1900 of them.I stack cut 4 at a time and at the end 5 at a time.He drove down with 1/8" x 6" pine .I used up every inch i could at a dime a star.I used a #5 or #3 blade scroll reverse from mikes.I'll count them tomorrow.He also brought me a load of oak,some walnut and various other pieces to knock off $50 from the bill.These are big pieces so i can do something with them readily 1563 stars!

I cut these on Friday and finished them over the weekend. The bunny is for my granddaughter and and the ferret is for my daughter. The wood is 3/4 in Coach Wood. Marg

1/8th wood, Steve Good pattern,And of course some names ,lol

Special Thanks to Grampa for the pattern. I made this for a guy I meet a couple months ago. His Dad raced this car back in 77.

Hello everyone, well I finished up with all of my cutting for the year and now I have a question. I have noticed that on my Dewalt 788, there is some side to side play in the upper and lower arm. I am wondering if this is normal? I have never checked that before, so maybe there is supposed to be some play in them. I haven't taken the time to measure the amount of movement yet. Thanks Jim

Been busy fos a couple of weeks,getting ready for Spring.Here are what I have so far.I know one of the Owls is Roly,s.The other I can't remember.None of the Pickups are mine.I am goning to have to start writing down names when I leave my shop.Anyway Thanks for some Fantastic patterns.Please enjoy.

When I first got my Hegner I also broke a lot of blades. I believe the right blade tension is more crucial on Hegner saws. I was used to cutting on a Delta P20 which is a more aggressive cutting saw that may have also contributed to the issue. Coming off a more aggressive cutting saw to a Hegner takes a little time to get used to. I seldom break a blade anymore unless I try to use the blade beyond its useful life or push it beyond its normal limits.

Can not remember the last time I snapped a blade on either one of my Hawks. Each and every saw takes some getting use to no matter what saw it is.

Finally back to normal, missed a couple of days do to the Flu, spent all day yesterday in bed, feeling much better now. edward

"simple & straight forward" . . . "8 to 10 years". You are a lot younger and more patient than me! But then I no longer by green bananas for fear they may go to waste.

Great job Joey on a good pattern by Paul! Thanks for showing us, Bob

If you are talking about side to side movement in the blade holders with no tension, this is normal. The movement will go away when tension is applied. If you are talking about side to side movement with tension, then this can be corrected by adjusting the set screws in the blade holders so that the blade will be centered in the holders.

Nice to se the end product, great job and thanks for showing us.....Paul

Great looking work Bobby. Well done. Marg

wow! blade breakage again. I've owned two Hawks. My first one was a 220VS I bought used. Never broke a blade in it til I wore it out enough it was WORE OUT! I traded it for the BM 26 I have now, & that was over a year ago. I have broke one blade in the 26. It was my own doing, not the saw. I've got a CW - 40 Hitachi saw, first saw I bought new 20+ years ago. I still use it for cuttin' feathers, flowers, etc. I've never broke a blade in it. IMO, blade breakage can come from several things. Style of cutting, speed of feed into the blade, side to side movement, blade tension, saw alignment, arm alignment, bearings, cutting speed. I've been scrollin' 25+ years & learn somethin' on every project. If you push to hard agin' the blade feeding into it, invariably the blade will snap. If the tension is to tight or to lose, yes, it will snap. All these things factor into blade breakage. As everyone knows, I'm sure. Before the feathers fly, & ya get the idea I'm bein' a "know it all," that ain't the case at all. Read the other posts. Switchin' from different saws has alot to do with it, too. Some definitely cut more aggressive than others. Consider your cuttin' style. If ya like to cut aggressive, some saws won't fit that bill, no matter the blade in it. If you're a perfectionist, & a mediocre type cutter, find a saw that fits that bill, & you'll find your blade breakage will be a lot less, & scrolling will be more enjoyable. Just a few pennies from experience. My apologies for the length.

Sir no sir,nothing else to do in a chair.lol no tv please brain drain.

Great job on all,brings back fond memories!

I like it but would rather see stuff grow right out of the bed instead of a pot my 2 cents ,lol

You have been busy, they all look great, like them. Very nicely done. jim penquin

I had a 2001 Ranger which I loved. In 2010 I paid $29,500 for a CanAm Spyder which I sold this past June. Just getting too old to ride. A new Ranger was the better deal.

I do not do a lot of scrolling because of physical problems but I have never broken a blade in my old Hawk. No front quick lever just the cam on back. 216VS.

Some of this weekend's cutting. Glued the photos onto 1/4"BB ply with spray glue. Let that sit for a couple of days. Stack cut, put the photos on the inside, glued the template to the back side. After cutting, took the pieces apart. That was actually harder than it should have been, the two layers stuck together. Next time I will put some wax paper between the photos. Cut with #2R olson blade. Haven't finished the wood. Might put a coating of Mod Podge on the top to seal the edges. These were for practice on cutting puzzles for future ideas.

Great work

Nice!

As a fan of older Ford pickups/ tractors (60 series and the N's)! etc. and of owls === NICE! The newer Ford pickups after the 7.3 engine was dropped are not as appealing to me.

Love the trucks, Bobby !....Nice cutting !

The back knob isn’t there to adjust tension but to make saw cut more or less aggressive. I have mine adjusted to make the arm parallel to the table. You can set the amount of tension you get by adjusting the set screw were the level is. I got a beefed up lever from seyco 2 years ago an it locks in place like new. Not trying to school you but FYI

My story almost exactly - 5 years instead of 7, and I can count on one finger on my left hand my number of broken blades. Also have an EX 21, I make sure when I put in a new blade, clamp bottom first and get it as vertical as possible. Then I loosen the tension knob in the back about a quarter turn. I'm a bottom feeder, so I insert the blade into whatever hole is available, clamp the blade in the top, tighten the tension knob about a quarter turn, flip the tension lever, and away I go. I loosen and then tighten the rear knob every time I start another cut-out. Turning the tension knob before flipping the lever reduces wear on the tension knob. I cut at a higher tension, but have had no issues. Use FD blades, mainly because they are crimped so that I don't have to figure out which way is up. Merry CHRISTmas, ya'll.

Made this for a disabled lady who this year lost her husband and then recently her little dog too felt she needed a pick you up.

Great job on all of them, great patterns also whoever they are by Thanks for showing us and bring on the spring I am freeeezzzzzziiiiinnnnnnggggggggg

When your regular cold medicine doesn't work......another unique Christmas gift just completed in time that somebody will get soon.....they couldn't find this in any stores......white oak.....clear Deft (5 coats)

Nicely done Marg.... What no wombat? Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

excellent job, they'll love them

You did good,Marg !

Great work Marg. I like them both. Don W

Great job!

Yes for some reason he likes them not for my wall I just do what people like

You did a great job for a practice. I have never cut a puzzle like that before because I want to find a template with puzzle pieces the size you would get if you bought a 500 or 1000 piece puzzle, just can't find one. Keep up the great work Barb. Marg

Modge podge,Your well on your way to being SSV's next grand puzzle maker ,Fine job BARB!

I use a Pegus #5 MG on almost everything 1/2" and above. I usually stack cut thinner material so I stay with the #5.

I really think it's hard to decide what blade is right for each individual and have been experimenting with some different brands of blades. Normally, I use the #5 blades practically exclusively but, from different manufacturers. I was using Olsen Ultra reverse but, did thought there have to be better blades out there for precision and for blade life. I also used the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #5 and felt the same. Acceptable but, seemed lacking. I bought a gross of blades called Sharktooth Ultra reverse, still #5 size, advertised as Highest Quality German Blades by Scroller. and I have mixed emotions about them. The precision is very, very good with smooth cuts and the blade life is very good also. I have cut 1/8" BB, 1/4" BB, 3/8" Maple, 1/2" Oak, 3/4" Pine and two 1 1/2" Compound ornaments and the blades worked very well. That being said, they are EXTREMELLY AGGRESSIVE! I notice a lot more of the wood chatter that octoolguy was talking about with wood lifting. You have to take your time and make sure not to force the cuts or the blade will probably take off cutting with a life of it's own on straight cuts or quickly veer off your pattern line. These are just my observations and opinions which you may consider in your choice of blades. I should have mixed some different brands of blades instead of ordering a gross of the Sharktooth blades. I think I have to remember to try to get some skip tooth blades instead of the Ultra Reverse. Thanks for your insight and opinion or comparison of blades, Dan! God Bless! Spirithorse

This is a great thread and catching dust at the source is the best. I have had a system like octoolguy for several years. I like the idea of running the loc line underneath the arm of my Hegner and probably will give that a try.

I used #1 penguin silver, also tried FD #5 ultra reverse, and the same results on both. edward

what #1 FD blade are ya using? ultra reverse give me good results.

I agree with Jerry, a backer board will help a lot. I don't usually use a top board, but almost always use a backer when cutting.

I'm not sure why you think "about everyone on this site" will disagree. I've not noticed that bias.... But let me say using a backer is a great technique. When I read the original post, using a backer board instantly came to mind. I use backers with my router, especially when working cross grain. And they should always be used in drilling. Backers are a fundamental woodworking technique.

Like Len has mentioned, a reverse blade helps reduce the chipping. Also, a zero-clearance table insert may help. If the letters are small enough you could drill a small hole on a piece of 1/8" ply, make sure it's big enough to fit you letter, thread the blade through the hole to center it, then tape the board to the table. That should offer more support without sacrificing too much wood.

Beautiful work on the lamp !.....Looks like a wonderful shop in your future !

I showed the prototype before but all the dangles(19) ready for Christmas, We use as table place markers.