Leaderboard

Made from Italian Olive wood. I made two. Pictures show both sides of them.

Had a request for a vinyl clock Elvis related so stack cut 3 turned 1 into the clock and have the other 2 I can keep as pictures or turn into another clock if needed, cut with everybody`s favourite a spiral Now to clear up the vinyl chippings and make some dust on a Sunday what better way to spend it

I have been making a lot of compound cut figures using a pattern from Diana Thompson's book. I altered the pattern a bit to make it more robust so it can be used as a toy. Originally designed as an ornament. The halo is a wooden toy wheel.3/4" drilled out a bit. Total height is 4 1/4" made from a two by four.

Here’s the tablet holder I designed with custom initial .......could also be used as cook book holder in the kitchen.....breaks down when not in use.....comments please

My daughter asked for a holder - so I re-did last year's ampersand.

A few native critters. Great fun to cut. After a dip in blo mix they will go to the nature center. I'm still looking for a bobcat pattern. Does anyone know of a bobcat pattern to our chase?

Had a request for something on vinyl for a tattoo artist friend so came up with these, Stack cut 3 and sprayed as I wanted, cut with #4 Spiral (no choice with vinyl). I will let him pick the one he wants and offer the others to local charity shop that supplies me with my records to cut.

Found time to knock this out .Plywood words1/2'' ,Teak backer 1/8''th

Saw this project over on Lumberjocks and had to give it a try. The plans are here, and there are 9 of them, even two that are fully automatic!! The derringer is next on my list to try. This one is 1/4" Baltic birch ply, and except for drying time can be knocked out in less than an hour.

Thats a great idea Melanie. I might make a couple for my daughters and maybe one for myself. Marg

I can't justify the price. I know they are good/great blades, but I can get far less expensive blades that do the same thing just not for as long. 2 at .30 each is easier to justify for me. Fredfret

That looks very nice Dan. i like it with the initial in it. My daughter uses her's when she's cooking and have thought about making her a stand to put her's on for that or for other uses. Thanks for sharing.

Have to ask, why do you have to use a spiral blade?

As a German friend said, turning on the lathe wastes so much wood, that you could make so much more out of. So I scrolled these two thingies yesterday and finished them on the lathe. Now being a total turning novice, they are not quite as great as I would have liked. But I am quite happy with the outcome. The woods are hickory, cherry and mahogany.

Well your easy to please,lol Thanks Smitty,Thanks for looking !

Well there is one less Hegner Scroll Saw for sale as of today. Man this is so quiet. I shot a video of is and am uploading it now. I will post is as soon as it is done.

Very nicely done Frank. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

seems the Pegas mod geometry would be the way to go as a compromise and a middle ground for economics and performance. I use almost exclusively hardwoods and normally 1/2- 1 inch thick so this is informative thanks

Those look great Monti. Where do you find Olive wood like that.

Oh the wood is Awesome.Beautiful work.

Images posted

Neat work especially the one with my initial in it. Roly

Are you scrolling or routing the notches in the stand? They look great, my wife and son could use one, perhaps I will make one for them

I love those. Beautiful!

Love seeing your vinyl Frank. It was worth the wait. He will love whichever one he chooses. Marg

Nicely done Jim. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Nice looking project ad great thinking for the halo. Jeff

Looks like 5.25" wide by ? 10"?

Beautiful job Frank.Love the black one best.

Now that is an Awesome job.Love the Halo

WOW Oh WOW!!!That's a whole lotta Scrollin!! And some Pretty Awsome work Kevin.Love the W,Va plaque.

Kevin started a thread showing some of his older work he did a few years back in the "Other Woodworks" sub-section of the Village. It can be found here: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/26996-those-were-the-days/?tab=comments#comment-301151 You are right - lots of excellent work done by Kevin.

Kevin, you need to put these in an Album here on this site. Then you can easily just keep adding pictures.

They look neat Dan! Nice work, Bob

Nicely done Marg, I like them all. Len

Way to go Dan, are you selling or giving them away? Len

Very nice, clean looking, like it. jim penquin

If it runs good, that is a great deal. That saw has the few upgrades that Hegner has done, the tension release in the front upper arm and the table that accepts inserts. Looks good. Just remember, and I think most Hegner owners will agree with me, Hegners take a learning curve, tension is important, get the manual, and read it. https://www.advmachinery.com/pages/about-us and one of these is very nice, to me a necessity to have; https://www.advmachinery.com/products/hegner-quickclamp The saw even has the optional bracket to hold a magnifying light. I'd like to have one but too cheap to buy theirs. I plan on making one. If it was close to me you would already be too late to buy it. I would have 3 scroll saws!

very nice

Looks like a quick easy right now way is with an aquarium air pump,But i have that ss250 delta saw that i use for my rattle can paint shaker .I can check to see if the diagram is good and send it to you if you like.

Many more to come i can see from this great cutting.thanks for showing your talent ,Keep them coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well cut, Joe !

Should be under $10 and that includes the tubing.

Glad to hear that the saw is running again. Bearings are very inexpensive in the overall scheme of things. The lower bearing on the Pitman arm is 3/8 by 7/8 and this is just one source. less than $5. https://bearingsdirect.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=9R6&submit_search= http://www.vxb.com/EEB3-2Z-Dia-9-525mm-OD-22-225mm-7-144mm-p/eeb-3-2z.htm I have bought lots of bearings from VXB and have been very pleased.

While I also have been around wood equipment most all my life and have the same experience as you with the larger equipment.. that said though.. most of the larger equipment also had much larger bearing as well as sealed bearings.. As for the saws with open bearings.. They are very small bearings.. and not really much room for much grease... My issue with the DeWalt is I believe that the real fine dust gets into the bearings and soak up any of the liquid portion of the grease.. every time I rebuild that saw.. when i pull out the bearings / sleeves.. there is sawdust and grease mixture which created a real thick dried out paste almost so to speak.. I've taken the front portion of the saw apart several times in the 10 years I've owned it.. while I've only taken the back portion apart only once.. and never even replaced the bearings.. just cleaned them up and added synthetic grease.. Now the saw is finally getting noisy in the back part of the saw so it needs to be taken apart.. I'm hoping to get by with it at least through the busy part of this year.. It's quite a job ( not horrible but time consuming ) to do on these..

Don't know what the cause was, but I had a bearing totally go to crap in my Rikon bandsaw, with probably less than 7 hours use. With my more recent Hawk adventures, the bearings in the scroll saw arm were "gritty" and did not turn freely. I used WD-40, and that seemed to do wonders, so in that case, the bearing were probably ok, just had dust hindering their normal operation. There is a lot more abuse on the bearings that Kev and Rolf were dealing with.

I guess I'm missing something in the conversation about wood dust and bearings. If a scroll saw is used for wood cutting exclusively wood dust is not all that abrasive. Now if the scroll saw is used for cutting metal or ceramic material that is of concern. Just wondering has anyone actually had a bearing failure caused by sawdust infiltrating a bearings dust shield? I have worked around a lot of woodworking equipment over my life and don't recall to many bearing failures caused by sawdust.

That is a 1K (1000) ohm pot. Back in my day any TV repair shop would be able to help. If there are any small electronic manufacturers in your area they MIGHT be able to help. If you are real brave and know how to solder electronics, a place like Digi-Key will have what you need for about a dollar or two.

Yes, and this is where the Ex- type saw will last longer before needing bearing attention.. On a dewalt.. the sawdust falls through the hole in the table and lands directly onto the lower rocker assembly.. as well as the older Ex's.. but the newer Ex's have the little dust port.. that I would think even not hooked up to a collection system still will catch much of that dust before landing onto the bearings and rocker assembly.. On the saw like Hotshot's that has that shielded bearing.. a shielded bearing is just that.. shielded.. it's not really and open bearing like a DeWalt, Ex type saw.. but.. this bearing in encased into the arm and isn't necessarily exposed to a large amount of dust anyway at the back of the saw.. between the shield ( which by the way sort of acts as a shield to keep dirt etc out but not totally sealed either ) and the saw body / arm etc.. I really doubt much get's into the bearing if any anyway.. At the front of the Hawk.. where the dust is more than likely to get into a bearing.. Hawk used sealed bearings. To rebuild a Hawk saw's bearing I believe you'd need about $20 at best.. to replace the 4 bearings.. while a dewalt saw you need sleeves and bearings.. which run $175 to replace the 25 bearings and 25 sleeves.. I think if one had parts on hand etc.. one could do the job in about 30 min. on a Hawk.. Probably if you was real good and quick.. one could do the DeWalt in about 1-1/2 - 2 hours..