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Finished this crow for a client of mine.

got warm enough to go to the shop pattern by steve goode

Here's one I did that started out as a wood burning by a friend. I turned it into a pattern and ran. It's about 16 inches tall. One of my favorite cuts. I'm going to find him and see if he'll sign it!

Curly Maple. So simple, sp beautiful.

Just finished this one for a friend of mine. I want to thank Bobscroll for doing this pattern so quick for me. I think she will like it. Another shout out to all these pattern makers that make our job much easier.

Pattern may be purchased from www.WoodcraftByScott.com

Made this for a customer in the UK.. Used spalted maple for this and tried to use the wood grain at the bottom to look like dirt / mud....

3 layers of birch plywood 4 mm, finishing - stain, gloss varnish

Hi everyone. I just wanted to put this finished product on that Wayne did for me. I still don't know how he did the pattern so quick. Thanks again Wayne and to all the other pattern makers that helped me out.

Three new ones I haven't cut before that I'll display in 2018. Just received some new custom ones from Harvey a few minutes ago that I'll cut over the weekend specifically for the local tourists. I'll share when they're done.

Over a week of snow and bitter cold (bitter cold for the beach...) I was finally able to get back to cutting. Making a few that I haven't made before and I have Harvey making 6 custom ones for me for the local beaches. I should receive those patterns tomorrow and I'll share them once they're cut and finished. These 4 will be cut tomorrow.

1. What do y’all use on the edges of a finished project with a backer on it to get rid of the line? I typically don't do anything special to the edges. I frame a lot of my projects so the edges are hidden, and sometimes I use an oversized backer so the edges are part of it. 2. Do I need to spray finishing lacquer over danish oil or Tung oil or stain? You don't need to, but I almost always do. I like the look of it 3. Do y’all start in the middle of a piece and work out or some other way and why? I usually start in the middle. I look at the cuts I am making and look for the pieces that will be most fragile, I cut in the order to make them the strongest as I am working on it. 4. In the middle of a project do you have to take the blade out of both sides and feed it through? My saw arm lifts up so between bending the blade and lifting the arm I can usually get the blade through.

#1, You could paint the side ,stain the side.I never do anthing with the sides. #2, i can't help much with this one,but stains and oils need to dry plenty before top coating i'm sure. #3,Yes from the inside out as handleing the outside full of holes is very fragile for one,Theres more reasons but some one else will chime in on that as i forgot what they are. #4,I've used chinese saws where the top arm is stationary and the dw788 ,dewalt arm lifts up out of the way for easy threading of the blade either from the top or bottom,i'm a bottom feeder.Thanks for asking beginers questions ,Keep asking away that's why were here to make scrolling easyier for you !Welcome friend!!!!!!!!!

Fireball First welcome to the village. Great place to be. Next welcome to the addiction also a great place to be. 1) When I finish a piece that shows a line or the edges of BB I normally frame them. It adds to the overall appearance of the project. 2) Watco, Danish, Tung oils and stains can all be top coated with what your wish, as long as you let them dry completely. Some oils take longer to dry then others depending on weather conditions. I normally top coat my stuff with poly giving it plenty of time to dry between coats. 3) Normally I start in the middle. This depends on the pattern though. If there are area that are going to be very delicate when cut, I cut them first, then tape the cut outs back into the board for strength. 4) Can't help you with this one. I have an EX-21 and the upper arm lifts up out of the way. Thinking back to my older saws, I did not have problems feeding the blades through the holes most of the time. Someone might give you better answers but would be nice to know what saw your working with. Remember the important things, have fun, relax and enjoy.

Hi y’all! I’ve been bitten by the scroll saw bug and I’m loving it. To be honest, it’s a little overwhelming. Between choosing the right blades, picking the kind of wood, finding patterns(choosing which to do first lol), and figuring out the finishing my head is spinning! Logically, I’ve got some questions and I’d appreciate any help y’all can give. 1. What do y’all use on the edges of a finished project with a backer on it to get rid of the line? Same thing with birch plywood. 2. Do I need to spray finishing lacquer over danish oil or Tung oil or stain? 3. Do y’all start in the middle of a piece and work out or some other way and why? 4. In the middle of a project do you have to take the blade out of both sides and feed it through? I’ve converted my blade change to the Pozsgai thing but I can’t lean the blade forward enough to avoid the top part where the blade slides in. I appreciate any answers y’all can give and thanks in advance!

I expected the worst from the urologist, But i layed the cards on the table to him.Now he tells me it's a 1 in a million chance for what happened to me.That's not what other urologists and the cathader companys said.Anyway i met a lady at the big box store that was so bubbly i couldn't resist to make this surprise for her.I tryed different lighting.

Pattern by blights69. Thanks Frank! It was a lot of fun to make. I was smiling the whole time I was making this. One of my all time favorite movie characters. Same goes for the quote. Thanks again.

Welcome to the forum. I think you will get help and make good friends here. I think you are already getting good answers. Might help if you let us know the type saw you have, maybe even a picture.

First,a Big Howdy,Welcome to The Village,1 I use a belt sander to sand my sides smooth then either stain or paint.I normally have 3 layers including my frame.3 layers of 1/4 luan. 2 I use a spary on finish.I put on 2 coats. 3 I can't help help ya with this either,Sorry

So, back, early in 2017 my life got really crazy, so much so that scrollsawing took a back seat. I had just moved into a new house and trying to set up some sort of shop in the basement. Here it is, January 2018 and things are slowly coming together. I finally had a chance to sit down and catch up with a few issues of Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts. After talking them out of the plastic I grabbed Spring 2017 and started looking thru. Did I ever get a surprise on page 8. There is a picture of a clock I had done in the summer of 2016. I started to read the info on the picture and "BAM". I surprised to learn that I had submitted the photo. Heck, I don't even remember sending it in. Just a great way to end a long day of putting together a Scrollsaw shop. Hope to get back "in the saddle" by the end of the month. Sure have missed making nice looking firewood.....lol. Chris

Ok, to update, I just bought the saw in question. All I have to do now is drive a 5 hour round trip to San Diego and back. We did the deal completely by messaging and he guarantees the condition and operation to be "perfect". The saw belonged to his uncle and he used it primarily to make toys for the kids. I can't wait to get it home and play with it. Thanks again for all the help on this one. I'll keep you all updated. Ray

I'm am adding this here from the "Works in Progress" forum hoping to get some more comment. I'm thinking about donating this to the "Friends of the NRA" banquet along with the 2nd Amendment plaque they request from me. I'd like to add some red, white and blue some where to it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. "Completed the cutting of this picture called "Guardian" and is a Charles Hand pattern. I've been playing around with it and the backer. Someway I want to do the backer/frame in red, white and blue. like the American flag. Not quite sure if that is going to work out or not. I have sorta/kinda a picture in my pea brain, but not sure how to work it out."

Hello all, glad to be joining you all here on the forum. I'm new to the hobby, just bought an old craftsman 16" from eBay, and ask inspired but what I've seen. Originally I planned on doing mostly toys, a few boxes and bowls, but the more i research this hobby the more i like the idea of intarsia. I'm from the metro Detroit area of Michigan, an engineer by training and an avid fan of crafted items. Due to medical reasons most of my hobbies are not vary viable, lost my left leg to infection, so I've decided to pickup woodworking as a hobby. My interests go beyond just scroll sawing, hope to get into furniture crafting long term, but I've found that saw at a good price, have grandkids starting to come and want to make stuff for them. I'll quit rambling about me and say I look forward to sharing with you all and hope to learn from your critiques. GFHWoodwerks (AKA Gregory)

Another custom request finally done.. With all the car clocks I have.. someone always wanting the car that I don't yet have on the web site.. Made this one from Poplar

Rick. Would these help? http://www.printscreenmac.com/ https://colorlib.com/wp/print-screen-mac/

Hi Frank, Check Amazon. There are quite a number of books on Inkscape. Like you I am a visual learner. Show me and I get it. This is gonna be slow but I'm taking a page at a time. There is much in Inkscape I will never use. It works well for a graphic designer.

The Sawdust Management System should come in to me next Tuesday. I am hoping this will work, due to my asthma I don't really care for blowing sawdust all over the place and yes I wear a respirator when I'm using the scroll saw.

Nice job Steve.

3. It all depends on the pattern. I look for where the cuts are the most delicate and bunched together. Generally this is towards the middle, but not always. I always want to start with the smallest, most fragile cuts first so I have the rest of the piece to support it. And when moving to the next cut, I always cut the edges along side previously cut areas first. Again for support. 4. No, I've never disconnected the blade from both ends. I now have a saw that lifts out of the way, but for 15 or so years I didn't. I was always able to flex the top of the blade get it through the holes. However, you do have to be careful to not put any permanent bends in the blade. When you can, use a larger drill bit. It's easier to thread the blade through a bigger hole. It does take practice to get good a threading the blade with the upper arm in the way, but you will get better at it.

Here is another Hegner for sale in California and it is a 22 inch. 22" Hegner for sale Jim

WOW, congratulations. What a way to end a day. Well done on getting your workshop up and almost running. Marg

Thanks Bobscroll,She is dead set on staying happy ,she may just bust a seam getting this ,lol

This is getting about as far off subject as possible. Ray, you are such a kind, helpful guy when someone needs/wants something. Thought I would let you know that our car needs washing.

Looks great thanks for sharing

That's awesome.. Glad you was able to make a purchase on a quality saw.. Hope you will enjoy making lots of sawdust with it

Now we can be Hegner buddies. Anybody else want in? Ray

I have to agree on a cold shop, I have a 40 x 40 clear span shop, 14ft walls (I needed to be able to drive my tractor in). I am not in agreement with anything that has flames (I.E. kerosene or propane " flame throwers", I have one but don't use it. I have an issue of an explosion or fire when I do any spray painting, wood staining / sealing / etc. , even a wood burning stove bothers me. Currently, I have no heat or air in the shop, it is well insulated r19 walls, r30 ceiling and insulated sectional doors (one at each end of the shop) but it still gets cold in there. I have tossed around the idea of ceiling radiant heat ( I have the power for them) but not sure I have the clearance between the ceiling and the sectional doors. I have to say, this was an interesting topic. Bob

Congratulations Ray. I hope you're as happy with yours and I am with mine.

Thank you Ray & Jerry for the quick replys. I noticed that the author is working on a new version, but has no release date. Jerry, it maybe because I am using a mac, but I don't get anything that resembles a gear shape and if I did it would probably print for the next week. Ray, I am a PRIME member, so I will be purchasing the book on Amazon. Thank you both again.

That is really a nice piece of work. U have done well. Thanks for sharing. Bill

Really beautiful piece of work you've done there! Thank you for posting, Bob

Thanks, I hope I can put it together to look like this. The frame it the picture here is photo shopped and the flag and backboard are no put together yet. Just trying to see how it might look.

Absolutely Beautiful work

very nice, your wife's painting is fantastic

In September I was the feature artist of the month at a local cafe that is run by Gay/lesbian folk and the place is very popular. They are having an auction of donated art work to sponsor an lgbtq family that is coming to Canada. Here is what I am made them for the auction, it's a bunch of lgbtq symbols and I splatter painted the backboard and frame with the colors of the LGBTQ flag. Will drop it off Saturday morning

You and your wife have a great partnership. Her painting brings your cutting to life. Well done to the two of you. Marg

Chris I do not get the magazine any more. Do you have a photo of the clock and maybe the write-up?? I love scrollsawn clocks

Congrats on getting published and the great surprise. Now, get to work on some of those projects!

Glad things are settling down and you are getting your shop organized.

Actually, if you put a note on your order, WTB will email patterns to you. They charge 50 cents per pattern. So, if you order more than 8 you'll spend more than having them shipped to you.