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I was looking for a way to hang things without putting more holes in the walls. I came up with this idea which is new to my. I wanted to use the 3M Command adhesive strips as they don't leave marks and are easy to remove. But how do I make a hanger that is pretty secure yet thin? Here's what I came up with. Cut a piece of 1/8" ply to fit the piece you want to hang. Make sure to it sets in from the sides of your project enough that it doesn't show when hung. This shape doesn't really matter. Tilt the scroll saw table to 30° and cut a rectangle out of that piece. See picture below. I used a #7 blade but a blade with a smaller kerf will work fine. You now have two pieces that fit snug together. The outer piece gets glued to the back of you project. Make sure the bevel faces the project. Attach the Command strip to the beveled face of the smaller "key" piece. Once the glue on the project hanger has had time to set slide the key into the hanger. If it is a bit loose you can add a piece of paper behind the key to sore of wedge it in place, just be sure the key will still slide out. Once the project is oriented as you like just press it to the wall.

Done on a prefinished gloss !/4" plywood .The letters were done with a #5 fd scroll reverse and the cat with a spiral ,all donated blades from members.Thank you friends!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My friend is working in a multi million dollar house and the new owner is trashing lots of things.He's telling me about a dark wide grained big shelf unit she wants gone.If no one buys it's going in the trash.He suggests to make her name and say im poor and this is what i do with wood i find.

So Neptune posted this pattern awhile back in the new pattern thread. I loved it the moment I saw it. Here is what l did with it. Asian acacia engineered flooring sample, backed by a babies crib board, framed with a babies crib frame. Love the pattern, also love how this turned out. Thanks Neptune! It's heavy!!!!

1st order of crosses done for the nursing home where my cousin works ....they give 1 to each family when they lose a loved one.........standard pine board......burned with map gas torch....base is 3.5x3.5 with routed edge...cross is 8”T x 5.5”W.....last year they had 87 deaths......comments please...

Good morning. Made these crazy birds for a couple of my clients. These were designed by Janet Square.

For my son's room, all from repurposed wood.

Made out of 3/4" Brazilian cherry material , using Steve Good's name Plaque app , the lower cased Plaque is the first for me always used all capitals before. I think I like the lower cased one just as well if not better now ! Any comments welcomed .....

1. What do y’all use on the edges of a finished project with a backer on it to get rid of the line? I typically don't do anything special to the edges. I frame a lot of my projects so the edges are hidden, and sometimes I use an oversized backer so the edges are part of it. 2. Do I need to spray finishing lacquer over danish oil or Tung oil or stain? You don't need to, but I almost always do. I like the look of it 3. Do y’all start in the middle of a piece and work out or some other way and why? I usually start in the middle. I look at the cuts I am making and look for the pieces that will be most fragile, I cut in the order to make them the strongest as I am working on it. 4. In the middle of a project do you have to take the blade out of both sides and feed it through? My saw arm lifts up so between bending the blade and lifting the arm I can usually get the blade through.

So, now that I've spent a couple of weeks using the Hawk and gotten used to it and it's less aggressive, "slower" cutting speed I decided to perform an official time test. I had 2 DOLPHIN puzzles prepped on boards, they happened to each be on similar sized boards. I pre-drilled the interior cut holes (4 on each) and then starting with the Hawk I started a stopwatch and cut the outline, did the 4 inside cuts, then cut it into it's pieces and stopped the timer. Then I did the exact same thing on my DeWalt. Times: Hawk - 12 minutes 20 seconds - Using Pegas Modified Geometry #5 blade DeWalt - 10 minutes 18 seconds - Using Olson Mach Speed #3 blade I had estimated it took a couple minutes longer to cut each puzzle on the Hawk and I was right. 2 minutes isn't a lot of time difference, but if you look at it percentage wise, it's 20% longer and if you multiply it out by 1600 puzzles that I hope to cut and sell in 2018, that's 3200 minutes or 53 hours and 20 minutes of extra cutting time over the course of the year. On a daily basis it's only 10 minutes a day if I cut my usual 5 puzzles per day. Is it an issue? I don't know, I'll have to ponder it. P.S. I installed a lift arm assembly on my DeWalt today and I highly recommend it for all DeWalt users. It's nice not having to hold the arm up when feeding the blade in from the underside for inside cuts. P.P.S. One of the scrollers who buys patterns from me told me he's using Old English Lemon Oil instead of mineral oil. He says it dries faster and more completely than mineral oil. I bought some Old English today and I dipped a puzzle in it and have it drying beside one I dipped in mineral oil and will report back as to the results of this test once completed.

Hi y’all! I’ve been bitten by the scroll saw bug and I’m loving it. To be honest, it’s a little overwhelming. Between choosing the right blades, picking the kind of wood, finding patterns(choosing which to do first lol), and figuring out the finishing my head is spinning! Logically, I’ve got some questions and I’d appreciate any help y’all can give. 1. What do y’all use on the edges of a finished project with a backer on it to get rid of the line? Same thing with birch plywood. 2. Do I need to spray finishing lacquer over danish oil or Tung oil or stain? 3. Do y’all start in the middle of a piece and work out or some other way and why? 4. In the middle of a project do you have to take the blade out of both sides and feed it through? I’ve converted my blade change to the Pozsgai thing but I can’t lean the blade forward enough to avoid the top part where the blade slides in. I appreciate any answers y’all can give and thanks in advance!

Duke inspired me to cut one after seeing the one he recently shared. This was a custom request by one of my pattern customers. Harvey drew it up for him and I really like it. And Mrs. Iggy just demanded that I make one for her. LOL I'll get Harvey to personalize for me with CAROLINA BEACH and KURE BEACH.

I expected the worst from the urologist, But i layed the cards on the table to him.Now he tells me it's a 1 in a million chance for what happened to me.That's not what other urologists and the cathader companys said.Anyway i met a lady at the big box store that was so bubbly i couldn't resist to make this surprise for her.I tryed different lighting.

Here is a piece I just finished. Its about 36 x 24 or so.

Cut this puzzle about 5 months ago. Pattern can be purchased from-www.WoodcraftByScott.com

I bought an actual Excalibur stand back in Dec. and now with being sort of caught up.. I went out today and swapped stands from the Harbor Freight stand I had that was too small and actually light weight compared to the actual EX stand.. I haven't cut anything on it yet as I had to come in and warm up.. but anyway I did plug it in and run it through the speed ranges.. very smooth running now.. I have a couple orders to cut so maybe I'll try it out.. Might have to play around with the adjustable legs.. I put them all at the highest level as my stool is a tall one.. I like a tilted saw too.. so I'm sure I'll be changing this up some before I get it all dialed in.. Now that there isn't much vibration.. I'm kinda excited to give it another try

It is real nice to be able to scroll outside and having the sun keeping you warm, but not for this week coming. We have a cold front moving in and the temperature next week around high 40 and low 50 a heck better that at my home in Ottawa Canada. Any way here is some of the stuff that I cut last week.

Pattern by blights69. Thanks Frank! It was a lot of fun to make. I was smiling the whole time I was making this. One of my all time favorite movie characters. Same goes for the quote. Thanks again.

I am always happy to help Ray.

The time difference is not saved on the DeWalt, you would have to spend that amount of time working on the De Walt to keep it running..... maintence, repairs,,,, Okay I'm just kidding,,,, just funning you all. Oh, crap, I am boycotted for sure now.

LOL, I'm a numbers geek... I simply had to know.

Thanks Jim. I got many questions answered in a short period of time. Of course, I'm not out in the shop because of you. HA! Ray

Dan, old man, do you get headaches from trying to solve problems like this ?? ?? Great idea Friend. jerry

From my friend, You Tube. You Tube

Thank you everyone for you help..I knew the Cherry Tree did not sound right but it was the closest my old mind could come up with at the time.. I have come up with the pattern and I will start on tit probably tomorrow. Again thanks to evveryone for your response it was so helpful in many ways... What a great bunch of people we have here in the Village Dick heppnerguy

Ha! And I thought I knew something, but you taught me, Ray. Went and read about the clamps, never read to the last paragraph before: "How do you easily identify which clamp is which? Small and large slot clamps both have a smooth top, but are easy to differentiate since the large slot is twice the size of the small one. The medium slot clamp has a dimple in its top so you can easily tell it apart from the others. Also, all separately ordered clamp pairs are supplied in individual bags identifying their size." Never even notices the dimple before

I bought some from JGR as well. I haven't used many, I have a ton of FD blades that I am just used to, so I always reach for them. I did cut a small welcome sign yesterday out of 1/2 red oak using the #3 Platinum and I was pleased with the result. Barely any chip out on the back side.

Keep that baby running !!!!!!!!!!Show us what you can do now!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nice work! love that, I must do some more intarsia....

But cats like you,lolThanks Frank!!!!!!!!!!!!

It went surprisingly fast? Thanks Bobby!

Sure looks great. I must say that I really admire you guys that do intarsia.

Great job!

Super cutting and pattern.

Ray, darn after going back and looking at the pictures, I don't see the wrench, I bet he has it somewhere. I'd email him and ask, he may have it somewhere and he should send it to you. Then you will have a spare... Yes there are different blade holders and they are not marked as to size, but I have been told and I believe it, the mid one, I think the .07mm will take care of them all. Could be wrong, but the quick clamp handles all sizes so one of the other clamps should. If I ever buy more of those clamps I will etch the size on it with one of those vibrator tools. Mine cane with two sets but I no longer know what ones are witch. Also, I think the owners manual is down loadable from Advance Machinery. Read the part about the upper clamp. It should be slightly floating in its holder, it should not be in there tight. That was the mistake I made when I first got mine.

I came in from the garage today and told Mrs. Ig that I'm tired of either freezing out there or sweltering. I have a feeling I'm going to have some construction done soon to build a wall to separate my work space from the rest of the garage, have 2 windows installed and put in a window AC/Heater.

I'm trying very hard not to let the minor vibration on my Hawk bother me... but it's not going well so far, I'm easily annoyed. LOL

Welcome to the Village Tyler. I don't do anything to the sides because I frame most of my work. I spray everything with a clear to stop the dust inside the frame. I always start in the middle at the most delicate spot and work out.

Welcome to the forum. I think you will get help and make good friends here. I think you are already getting good answers. Might help if you let us know the type saw you have, maybe even a picture.

3. It all depends on the pattern. I look for where the cuts are the most delicate and bunched together. Generally this is towards the middle, but not always. I always want to start with the smallest, most fragile cuts first so I have the rest of the piece to support it. And when moving to the next cut, I always cut the edges along side previously cut areas first. Again for support. 4. No, I've never disconnected the blade from both ends. I now have a saw that lifts out of the way, but for 15 or so years I didn't. I was always able to flex the top of the blade get it through the holes. However, you do have to be careful to not put any permanent bends in the blade. When you can, use a larger drill bit. It's easier to thread the blade through a bigger hole. It does take practice to get good a threading the blade with the upper arm in the way, but you will get better at it.

#1, You could paint the side ,stain the side.I never do anthing with the sides. #2, i can't help much with this one,but stains and oils need to dry plenty before top coating i'm sure. #3,Yes from the inside out as handleing the outside full of holes is very fragile for one,Theres more reasons but some one else will chime in on that as i forgot what they are. #4,I've used chinese saws where the top arm is stationary and the dw788 ,dewalt arm lifts up out of the way for easy threading of the blade either from the top or bottom,i'm a bottom feeder.Thanks for asking beginers questions ,Keep asking away that's why were here to make scrolling easyier for you !Welcome friend!!!!!!!!!

Thanks, Tony. You are right about the tightening. I had to play around with the tightening of the saw to the table to optimize it for vibration. I've found it's hard to be consistent with the tension, since I usually have to lessen the tension (even after releasing quick-lock tension lever) to remove the blade assembly. There are no indicator numbers for tensioning (like on the Dewalt, for example). Too much tension and blades break. Too little tension and the blade wanders (especially in my case, since I tend to cut thicker stock up to 2"). Good advice from you dad on the oil. Like I always say, when in doubt, lubricate! I've found the manuals are available online from Advanced Machinery, however they are for the current version of the saw. But not much has changed on these saws since their introduction, which is the mark of a great design.

I have and use the small clamp. I have both, have never had a reason to use the bigger clamp yet.

I would think you would need to use the small 0.5mm clamp for a blade that small. In their article on blade clamps (http://www.advmachinery.com/p-72-blade-clamps.aspx), advanced machinery recommends a size 0.5mm clamp for blades size 4 or smaller. Although the QuickClamp can supposedly be used for all size blades, better results may be obtained by using the small size clamp. I agree it is a fantastic saw and that the learning curve is a bit steep. It is not like my previous saw, the DeWalt DW788, that only had one clamp option.

The problem I have with mine is getting the tension adjusted correctly for the size blade. So far I have not been able to use a blade smaller than a #3. I like to do delicate pictures, and my most used blade is a spiral #3/0. I have not been able to work with one on my Hegner. Very thankful I have an Excalibur also otherwise I would no be enjoying scrolling. Hopefully I will someday figure out the right combo to get them to work with the Hegner. All I can say is practice, be patient, buy lots of blades. It is a great saw, but like I say it takes some getting use to. You might check out the different clamps available at Advance Machinery. I like the "QuickClamp" best. http://www.advmachinery.com/c-6-scroll-saw-accessories.aspx

Thanks for the help, Kevin, Paul, and Jim. So after taking the advice presented here and screwing down the screw above the clamp until it was almost touching and oiling the upper and lower bearings, the vibration is much better. I can stand a nickel on its end at 1700 RPMs. The nickel moves around a bit, but it stays upright for several seconds before falling. The only issue now is the blade breakage. I don't think my feed rate is too fast, but perhaps I have been applying too much tension. I will try cutting some stock today with less tension to see if I still break blades. Has anyone been able to confirm or deny that the slight tilt from front-to-back (as seen in the first photo) is normal?

I agree. Screw the clamp holder down to almost touch top clamp; I found to made my Hegner saws smoother running, I bolt the stand to the concrete floor. Too tight of tension and too fast a feed rate or saw speed will break blades.

Phillip, I have a Hegner and they take some getting use to. I have only had mine a few months so I am still trying. I see from your first picture that there are two things I would suggest trying. I have a different clamp on mine but I also have the same clamp you have that I have used. The screw above the clamp should be screwed down till it is almost touching the top of the clamp. On that type clamp you do not want it toughing but almost, as I understand it. Also try to get the blade as perpendicular to the clamp as you possibly can. In the picture below I have arrows pointing to what I am talking about. I have the screw all the way down on mine and you are suppose to with the clamp I am using. Also do not hesitate to call Advance Machinery ( 800.727.6553 ). They will help you, no matter if you didn't buy from them.