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Made 5 wrong and then 10 right.These are nye nyame. triangle eyes,and ? I made many for this bead lady and now she wants more,no router table , just the router between my legs.One a dremel and the other a trim router,one a slightb half round and the other a full half round.Looking to get $10 a piece for them.will post them all tomorrow ,i'm shot for the day.iece for them.

This is a Steve Good pattern that I enlarged by 35%. I used 1/4" Red Oak plywood. The approximate size is 8" in diameter and 2 3/4" high. I used FD UR #3 blades and finished with spray Shellac. This was one fun basket to make. Very easy to cut. Placement of each ring had to be exact to get the spiral effect. Comments welcome.

Howdy All. I'm happy to introduce a new section on SSV for Pattern Shops! This is a directory of places to find pattern vendors on the web; both paid & free. We all have our favorite pattern shops bookmarked, now we can share those with other scrollers. Each shop has their own page with useful information, such as Website, Designer's Name, Free or Paid Patterns, Pattern Types, and Additional Information. It also has an area for comments/reviews. So if you have bought a pattern with a particular shop, share your experiences with the rest of us. Right now, the Pattern Shops list is located under the Resources tab (It will probably move in the future when I re-organize the Nav Bar). Check out our growing list. If you don't see your favorite pattern shop listed, add it by clicking the green button that says "Add A New Pattern Shop." (Be sure to double-check to make sure it's not there already. We don't want double entries.) If there's misinformation on that pattern shop's listing, you can easily change it by clicking the "Update Shop Information" button on that shop's page. If you have your own pattern shop, be sure to add yourself (or update your information if you're already listed). It's also worth noting that there is a nice area called Additional Info where you can add extra information that potential customers may find useful. (Hint: Add a promo code for an SSV discount so you can track much traffic SSV has sent your way.) You can also include pictures, logos, etc. Anyway, I hope y'all find this useful. Enjoy!

this is about 5% of what i have stashed. time to clear house! i did manage to get my camera out and figure it out. it takes mucho better pics.

This is a Steve Good pattern. I did some pencil torch scorching. John Old Dust

Pattern © by Jon Rigsby III . Made from Tigerwood. (not Tiger Wood ;-))

Kinetic gear toy - watch the video to see how it works: also shown all stages of making this project. I found this pattern at CNC forum for free, made some changes to make it avaibale for scrollers, have fun Pattern attached gear toy.pdf

Was a nice day yesterday so I managed to cut a couple of puzzles from Iggy

My friend is working in a multi million dollar house and the new owner is trashing lots of things.He's telling me about a dark wide grained big shelf unit she wants gone.If no one buys it's going in the trash.He suggests to make her name and say im poor and this is what i do with wood i find.

Saw this and had to cut it. Thanks to Pabreu Designs for the pattern. Stack cut three 1/8th BB ply using #3 ultra reverse. As always one got oiled and Jan painted one. Was smiling most of the time I was cutting it and still chuckle when I look at Jan's painted one. Jeff

My 788 is pretty smooth, not not as smooth as the Ex by any stretch. The Ex can be tuned for minimal blade travel, and that can affect smoothness of that saw. Have you done that yet? ------Randy

Ray, you are learning like the rest of us "men" do. Reading the manual is the last resort.... It's down there with asking directions to somewhere...

Kevin I own a Dewalt 788, a hegner 18" a rbi 220vs and a rbi 226vs I have cut on all of these and many others over the years. I have never set a clock next to cutting but from my experience and again MY EXPERIENCE I see no difference. To make a blanket statement is just plain wrong. I said up and down motion are the same. The angle the blade enters material maybe different with the workings and construction of the arms. As I mentioned the old Delta C arms had a more aggressive cutting motion because of how the blades are fixed in the arms. The Dewalt ,Ex. and jets use a closer to the material and shorter arm but still goes up and down. There are built in options to increase the angle the blade enters the wood such as the bottom clamp. The RBI and others use the longer parallel arm system but still go up and down I believe it is the material you are cutting. Maybe the travel is longer on a RBI to make it slower. Then speed it up. Change blades do whatever to make up 2 minutes if that means the world. You production cutters are in a class by yourself. I have told you this I have been there but never once in my lifetime felt I had to go faster behind a scrollsaw. I too have cut for production but I do not like blanket statements. It is a personal thing as it is with you. You feel you are on a highway doing 25. I got it. get off the highway or get a faster car. As you and Iggy you have to make up your own minds and buy the saw that fits your need. You both now have experience with a couple of them do what makes you happy. I shared my experience and again I do not like blanket statements and he made one. as well as you are. In your mind the RBI is a slower cutting saw. Please leave me out of this for the best of this post. I stepped away because production scrollers are in a class of their own. Have fun and scroll away and stop talking . Get busy time is money orders to be filled. Not sure what else you want me to say. I understood everything he said and I understand everything you are saying. But at least take my opinion into consideration too have been cutting for over 35 years.

Man! The painted one are beginning to look like the "finished" ones and the unpainted, look like works in progress! Great job on both, but sorry your Jan wins first place in this one. Great cutting, my friend, but ,,,, I wonder if my wife can paint. If not I'm going looking for a painting girlfriend.

Wow guys thanks for the answers! Lots of different ideas to think over and put in practice. I have a Dayton 16” variable speed. It seems like it’s doing a good job for now. I would really like one that the upper arm folds out of the way now that I know that exists lol. Any ideas on the vinyl click together flooring?

I just tried the adhesive shelf paper from Walmart. Placed it on the soft maple and then adhered the pattern to the shelf paper. I used to adhere the pattern to the wood with temp adhesive and then cover with clear packaging tape to lubricate the blade. The new (to me) technique does not leave a residue on the wood, as does temp adhesive, and therefore the results are much better when I dip the puzzle pieces in food dyes. The only downside is that it takes longer to remove the shelf paper from the puzzle pieces. Long fingernails are a must too! I like the shelf paper better than blue painter's tape because the shelf paper is clear and you can work around imperfections in the wood with pattern placement. bb

I can tell you for sure it is not bloodwood or redheart. They are the redest woods on the market but hard and heavy woods. It is a mahagony, if real red it could be Honduras mahogany.

In agreement with jt, how many dewalts can ya buy with that 5300 minutes extra time it takes to cut them puzzles? parts? down time to fix them? I've spent my share of time on the Hawk saws. I will admit they may not cut as aggressive as the dewalts. Though I've never spent any time with a dewalt, hegner, or seyco, etc. There is nothing I cannot do on a Hawk. From 1/8" to 3" in depth. I use hardwood on all my projects. No. The BM 26 does not cut as fast, but is a perfectionist saw!! It comes down to more than time. How well of a job of cutting do you want to do? What do you want your project to look like? That's the big question.

I believe this is soft,very very red wood.

I have the 4" mop, and use it on a used washing machine motor with a drill chuck mounted on it. It is attached to a board and clamped to the worktable for use. I also use a dust collector about 6" from the mop to collect the sanding dust, and a respirator.

87 deaths that's one huge family!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The crosses look great thanks for sharing

Looks great thanks for sharing

Great work, love the wood. Marg

Very cute, I love number 5. Great work Steve. Marg

Beautiful piece

Some of it for me is, I've used my DeWalt for 10 years.. have rebuilt and tweeked it to run as it now does.. I used higher end bearings and high grade synthetic grease.. I'm in the process of rebuilding my Hawks right just ordered some parts today for them both.. I won't rebuild the EX yet.. since it's brand new ( so was one of the Hawks but that's happens to be the one with two bad bearings too) until I actually give it a going through and tuning it.. then if I feel it can be improved upon I'll look into it.. I think once i get to using the EX.. I'll probably end up making that my main saw..

Hummm, made me go try it, I noticed it to about the length of time it took my old brain to think, "it's started now".....

Nice job, but I'm with the majority here. Jan's painted one definitely adds some "detail" that takes it up a notch on this one.

Since when does a guy read the manual?

See, I think it's Ike many things - it can be in part what you use first and get used to. I took a class with JGR almost immediately when I got started with the saw almost two years ago which means I started pretty much with the oh line blades as that is what she uses in the shop and classes. What I got use to. I like them. Bought them from her site for home use. Then, I found all you wonderful people here in the Village. So many recommended Flying Dutchman that I decided to get some and give them a try. I didn't really like them. Presently I don't recall what I didn't like about them as it has been a while since I tried them. Figured, in part, it was probably more me then the blades so figured I would try again at some point. I have tried a few others recently. For example when I tried the compound cut ornaments I did. Changing the blade to one without reverse teeth made a tremendous difference there as suggested by several on here. So, as a relative newbie who is not a "technical" type like many of you, I can't give real insight or information on the differences and why I like one or the other but did want to say I like them.

Sweet! Another terrific job by a team that knows what it's doing. I wish my wife would paint.

If you want, I can open it in Adobe illustrator and save it for you as a PDF. Let me know Sam

Not only great cutting but a wonderfully comical pattern. Had to be fun cutting.

Jeff,you did great but Jan did Fantastic..great work by both of you

Love it looks great with colour. Roly

We do speak the same language but as i often said many times on other forums sometimes the typed word gets translated differently than if it were spoken face to face and that is just a common thing. I was a foreman for many years in the electrical industry so I dealt with many different personalities and they can be challenging for sure. I try also to impart some of my past experiences within this forum and love looking at others works. It gives me joy. May not be able to do what I use to any more but many projects brings back memories. One thing I am sincere at is I do wish you good luck and do hope you continue to make people smile and continue to share not only here but wherever you go and when people ask questions at shows be forthcoming and share. It is how we all learn. keep those saws humming and get back to work.

For what you do, I'm really surprised you didn't go the EX or Seyco route. If I were in your shoes as a production cutter, and needed the aggression, I would be on the EX/Seyco in a heartbeat as the mechanics are very similar to the 788, except that you can adjust aggression to more or less than what you have on the 788 (while keeping the blade perpendicular), there is already a mechanism to hold the arm up, and they seem to last longer than the 788s. For you puzzles, it looks like the EX 16" would work. For highly intricate stuff, even the minimal blade travel I get on the EX (tuned for minimal aggression) is sometimes more than I like. The Hawk has other challenges for me, but I've set it up as my primary for coin cutting for now to see if I can make it work. But, after my testing, I suspect the EX will remain my coin cutting saw because of how it performs with very small delicate blades, but we shall see. I don't think there is "One" saw that is better than every other saw at everything. I think you have to match the saw to your own needs which are affected by your specific project types, your cutting style, and other requirements specific to your needs. -----Randy

I have been using the Mac Mop a lot lately.I started using it mounted to my drill press.But the sight angle just did not do it for me .So now i use my lathe with the Mop I have more control of the speed and angle.I would not try to use a hand drill at all.

Great work Dan but I hope you don't get lots of orders for those, if you get my meaning. Marg

I better step away from this again because you are all about speed and I am far from that. Best of luck to you at whatever you do and God Speed!!.

Really nice job on a neat pattern, thanks for the pic. Jeff

Great results on all, thanks for the pics. Jeff

Love the crosses, I've been doing a lot of wood burning also. I hope you don't have to make too many of them this year.

Agreement with all of the above comments!

Nice looking. I like them. Love the burnt effect.

nice job, looks like you'll be kept busy

Those sure came out great.

Does this count? This month I am conducting 3 scroll saw workshops in my shop for a maximum of 4 attendees each time. Open to all 40 members of our community's woodworking club which consists of 40 members. I've done 2 so far and one more to go. Covers the basics of scroll saw tune up, blade selection, wood selection, planning the cut, sanding tips, and finishing tips. Attendees get to cut out a puzzle on one of my 3 saws. I provide a handout with tips and resources. Plus some patterns they can use to make puzzles for our local Toys for Tots Program. I have never taught anything before and it seems to be going well.

First,a Big Howdy,Welcome to The Village,1 I use a belt sander to sand my sides smooth then either stain or paint.I normally have 3 layers including my frame.3 layers of 1/4 luan. 2 I use a spary on finish.I put on 2 coats. 3 I can't help help ya with this either,Sorry