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Five year old Son is a huge Stephan Curry fan and I promised him I would scroll the logo for him. Tricky but fun Posting it here to get some ideas for mounting, framing hanging it...

Lost my dw788 pictures of parts replaced.these were first cut projects from connecting rod replacement,re greased

Unusually cold weather here the past few weeks has me far behind where I wanted to be, but today was a good day and got 15 cut. I have to head up to DC on business tomorrow thru Wednesday, so I guess I'll be even further behind...

last birthday I get present - cardboard tiger kit of D-Torso. (if anyone interested, here you can buy it - https://d-torsoshop.com) But I was dissapointed when I known that parts are already cut (by laser) and I need just to assemble it. So I decided to transfer pattern to wood by myself and cut. I choosed fiberboard - cheap material and easy to cut. Here is result of my work: video of cutting and assembling

l make a clock of olive and sycamore wood. The pattern is from vinyl clock.

Boy! Every once in a while something I have heard or read about really bugs me and I just have to vent. I have been reading lately about bearing issues with scroll saws. I would hazard a guess that the bearings used in scroll saw production do not reflect but a small percentage of the cost. Why then are low quality or defective bearings finding their way into otherwise respectable products. I have contended for years that some otherwise intelligent people in cost control jobs, ( bean counters), make some very bad decisions. A defective bearing can make an otherwise well designed product totally inoperable. Why would a company want to chance such a small part to reflect on the reputation of the product and the company? Everybody is not equipped with the mechanical skills or desire demonstrated by some of the members here to replace defective parts. I think more consumers should let companies know that these types of issues are not acceptable. JMHO Thanks for listening.

This is a Steve Good pattern I take this with me bar hopping and have gotten over a dozen $20 donations. John Old Dust

I have purchased head magnifiers over the last 45 years. I have many, mostly Optivisors but many others of similar type. None have ever been comfortable, always moving and have to be adjusted on my head. Perusing ebay I found these. They are ultra light weight and come with four interchangeable lens of varying diopters. At 2.99 with free shipping they are a bargain.

This is the first scroll saw project I did on my first saw, a $69 Menards model. York Minster Cathedral from Cherry Tree. Very happy with the plans. We gave the finished project to one of our sons for a House Warming gift. Re; How do you display it? I built a pedestal for it to sit on, creating a Grandfather Clock. He dusts it with a feather duster & that is not an issue for him. In retrospect, I should have left the clock out of it & designed something else for that space. Tried (& failed) with clocks from 2 different well known companies. Our son likes to show it off, but doesn't even bother with the clock part of it.

I just tore into my 10th dw788 and found the wrist pin on the connecting rod off the motor had no grease.I replaced it with one i took a motor from and i'm good to go now.

So another warm night out there 33F so I went out and replaced my upgraded tension cam and the new style upper blade holder.. New bearings wasn't needed.. in fact maybe bearings was made better back in the 90's as these look like new.. good thing too.. because after taking the saw apart I find that it has a whole different style of bearing than the newer 226 Ultra has... connecting rod bearings the same.. but again wasn't needed.. She's running real nice and smooth through all the gears.. no vibration to really speak about through the whole range of speeds.. I sort of like the thrust bearing style of this older saw better than I do the newer one.. Guess now my next project will be to set up and tune the new Excalibur and when these are all done and running good.. I'll take the 788 apart for new bearings inside the case at the back of the saw.. getting a little noisy back there and still running the originals from 2008 back there..

Seems like I am always looking to be the negative guy. Well here I go again. Doing scrolling requires to be relaxed, not hunched over the saw. You have to find that perfect distance when wearing those. I use some when working on watches or other fine detail work. It is not for hours and hours though. A good magnifier attached to a saw can be swung into play or out of play very easily. Easy to set distance because it stays when set the first time. Just my opinion. One of mine broke a few weeks ago so I will be picking one up when the woodworking show comes to town in Feb. May pick up 2 and have a spare. Now they make them LED.

Finally got a chance to order my parts I needed from Bushton on Monday.. parts came in the mail today.. I just came back in a short time ago after putting all new bearings etc. in Is it safe to say I wore out a brand new Hawk in 5 months.. bought the saw in May and replacing the bearings in it already.. Pretty sure it would have lasted much longer had the bearings actually had grease in them.. Not sure to blame that one on Hawk.. or China.. Bearings say Made in China.. Hawk says Made in the USA.. I picked up the bearings from a local bearing supply house.. The parts needed to complete my bearing job was the darn special spacer (washer) that goes in between the lower arm and the connecting rod.. I dropped the darn thing while trying to put it together last month.. I seen the general direction it took off to and i moved all the lumber around... never could find it.. now that is back together it'll show up, LOL Needles to say.. she's got all brand new bearings ( with grease too ).. and is running smoother than it ever has.. It's virtually smooth all through the gears until the very highest one.. she's got some vibration at top speed.. but used to have a pretty bad area right around the middle speed and would walk across the floor on just before high speed and up from there.. Hawk mailed me a paper with alignment instructions which one I had not thought of myself or tried.. which could have been part of the issue.. however no grease in the bearings I'm sure played a part too.. Now I need to put my new updated upper clamp / tension mechanism on my old Hawk 220.. the tension lever wouldn't stay down into the tension position.. guessing that's why that saw kept breaking blades.... This saw is one oldie as it doesn't have the small set screw to adjust to give it more tension.. so the whole new updated to the BM series style upper clamping system had to be used.. But since I am taking the arm off etc.. I also picked up new bearings etc for this one.. so if anything is bad or worn.. should be like new when I get this one done too..

I recently made a couple puzzles.. and during the shrink wrapping I got to thinking about how the puzzles would possibly be purchased by someone as a gift for a small child to play with.. does anyone display any caution signs or anything to make people aware of the fact? I'd hate to have a child get their hands on these and choke.. so while packaging my puzzle up I include a business card but along with the card.. I also searched google for choking hazard logos and found one to print off.. I arranged it so they would print 9 of these per 8.5 x 11 paper.. and cut them out.. kind of tedious to do if I was going to make a crap load of puzzles as Iggy does.. I'd have this printed on a sticker or business card type stock through Vista Print.. Anyway, I sort of feel you cannot be too careful.. I know that the parents should know better.. the truth is maybe the parent is not buying it for the child.. Just feel it's something for those selling puzzles should consider.. IF I start selling a few of these online.. I'll be taking one photo of the item in the package with the warning showing in the photo.. as well as have this warning written in the items description..

Work room is temporarily out of commission! Looking forward to having it completed and setting things up. Will use the reloading time to really think about how and where I use things and sort through the "junk".This is before - some of the room has been cleared out. Here it is cleaned out. Contractor comes in on Wednesday to frame, insulate, drywall and electrify!!! As I tell people - I only do small stuff!!!

I jumped on Craigslist to check for any Excalibur saws on there. Today I scored. I found one that was posted just minutes before I looked and what to my wondering eyes should appear but an EX that was only used 10 minutes, and I am going after it in about 10 minutes. How lucky is that? Now I will have 2 of them. No one sells the ones they have, I just struck it rich Dick heppnerguy

I just tried the adhesive shelf paper from Walmart. Placed it on the soft maple and then adhered the pattern to the shelf paper. I used to adhere the pattern to the wood with temp adhesive and then cover with clear packaging tape to lubricate the blade. The new (to me) technique does not leave a residue on the wood, as does temp adhesive, and therefore the results are much better when I dip the puzzle pieces in food dyes. I don't get the blotching effect that often occurs when I can't sand all the temp adhesive off before dipping. The only downside is that it takes longer to remove the shelf paper from the puzzle pieces. Long fingernails are a must too! I like the shelf paper better than blue painter's tape because the shelf paper is clear and you can work around imperfections in the wood with pattern placement. I don't know who first suggested shelf paper on this forum (I know IGGY uses it) but I want to shout out a big THANK YOU to whoever it was! Also, I think the shelf paper is a better blade lubricant vs packaging tape and blue painter's tape. I now believe I have mastered the technique of using food coloring on soft maple! It's only taken me 9 years! bb

Four inches and still snowing. Not complaining because we really need it. Because of heart problems my wife forbids me to shovel. My wife is Canadian and tough. She likes snow and cold weather.

This tree face cut from ash flooring, mounted on rosewood engineered sample and framed in crib parts painted black turned out great, ignore the shadow of me.... Lol

Your advice is good Ray. My friend was repairing radar and instruments in the Air Force and retired as an electronic technician and industrial electrician. My son-in-law is heavily into electronics. I have lots of help at my disposal. I won't pick it up until late this week or next week. Right now too much snow. Next weekend is the big motorcycle swap meet to get ready for so my spare time is pretty solidly booked.

This is the U.S. site. It is where I purchased my patterns. They come with English instructions. http://woodyoubelieveshop.blogspot.com/p/patterns-on-cd.html

That looks beautiful, but glad it’s not here, had enough of that when we lived in Pennsylvania, RJ

Congratulations in getting a specific place to work. I know you will enjoy it!

One of the first sites i used when learning the hobby !.....Heck, who am i kidding, I am still learning !

One thing with those arm bearings in the hawk their range of motion is very small so the wear is in the exact same place all of the time. Kevin did you get them from Hawk?

I'm still using walnut Veneer for the backer. It would be easier to paint black but I just can't bring myself to do it. Just don't like the look of painted wood behind a natural finished one. I'm crazy i guess. Sorry about title I don't think this is from ssv library.

Orangeman puts a sticker on all of his puzzles. He provided an example of one to me that I really need to get around to putting on my own. I do have a warning on my website within each category of puzzle in the item description. And for the choking hazard reason, Woodcraft By Scott is now an LLC as of this past Friday. I just had an idea Kevin... I already put a business card in each shrinkwrapped puzzle package... I may have a batch of business cards made with the warning on the back of the card specifically for the packages versus the cards I hand out. I'll have to ponder that.

I have learned a few thing,When I get to where I can buy me a better scroll saw.I am going to chk it out before starting it up.

Show an tell,lol i'm likin the new look too!!!!!!!!!!!Thanks Bobscroll!!!!!

LOL,Just trying different things,but thanks.I'm trying to reinvent the wheel,lol

thanks Bobby,The butterflys are stick on's saved me some cutting and spruced it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just was making a point about the Zerk fitting on those bearings. That was brought up. Bearings are a huge problem on lathes as I mentioned and most forums I go to the answers are to buy a better quality bearing and a site is usually given rather than getting same ones from the lathe company you bought.

Maybe that is why my saws have had no maintenance needed on them. Around that age. I have run the heck out of them and they are still ticking like a clock. Don't make things like they use to.

To be honest I dont put that much thinking into my saw. The saw is just a tool. we, we, are the artists. if your saw is not getting you to where you need to be, get a new one. Simple.

I had cataract surgery last year and went from near sighted to far sighted. Now I carry "cheaters" around with me all the time. I just use a stronger lense when needing to see closer. At $1.00 a pair, I have them scattered all over the house and shop.

Cannot agree more with you, Stoney.. I've recently found several bearings that appear to have never even been greased.. My Hawk is a 1998 but was new in the box when I bought it.. last May.. I could never get the vibration to go away.. I kept messing around until i started really looking.. found 3 bearings in the ol girl that looked like there was never any grease..

Ernie came up with a completely different mechanism for the scroll saw. I think it is going to take that level of "re-think" to create a scroll saw that retains it's simplicity, yet drives the upper arm. However, I think it would be easy enough to come up with some improvement to current designs that would be feasible/easy to achieve if the manufactures would seek feedback about possible improvements from their customers. Dewalt: Ship it with the mechanisms to hold the Arm up, should be trivial. Improve the bearings to the point that they outlast the motor. Beef up the motor to stand up to heavy use. Dewalt could very easily create a membrane over their power switch which would prevent issues that have bitten many 788 users. Beef up the circuit board to make those replacements less frequent. Hawk: Bring the G4 back, use Rolfs' version of the improved clamp retaining clips. Create perfect alignment in the base that does not require alignment if if gets jarred during shipping. I will trade anyone my BM26 for a good working G4. On the EX/Clones/Variants: Fix the clamps, please. I want to be able to tighten the clamps without constantly worrying about stripping or spreading the clamps. The stand is sturdy, but with that front cross bar, where am I supposed to put my feet? Adjusting blade travel for the non-mechanically savvy is an issue. I'm sure some users have given up on the EX type saws because they didn't understand that messing with the arm height would change blade travel, create vibration, and such. I'm not sure how they would lock these setting in , but put some engineers on it to see what can be done. Hegner already has a lot going for it, but tweak design to enable easy top feeding please. I don't think a lot would have to be changed for that to happen, and I believe we had someone on the other forum that filed some stuff to accomplish a version of this. Give us some other options for the stand as tall and narrow does have some advantages, but may not be right for every person. Give the customers the choice of a much larger table. Ryobi (and the countless other sellers of this very poor saw design): Delta Patents on most of their older small saws have expired and are now free game. Some of those saws were small/simple and you should be able to reproduce very cheaply. Give up your current designs' and copy this or another saw worth copying. Hire a veteran scroll saw enthusiasts to sanity check your designs. I don't think we are going to ever get the "best for everything saw", but, I think some of these changes would help.

That's more than I paid for them. But I would be pleased.

The optics appear to be quite good.

I unfortunately have created some “scrap wood” as I learn this new hobby!

I need another mag light and have been putting it off as to researching etc.. since it's not something I desperately need.. since I can take one off one saw to move to another.. as i have 3 of them.. but have 4 saws.. and like to just sit at a saw and go to work.. without having to move stuff around.. Anyway, I have never thought about a head mounted deal like that.. This would be much easier to move from one saw to the next... and I would always know where to mount it for the least amount of vibration.

Awesome, fantasy saw time: High Level Top Priorities: 1. Top feeding/bottom feeding operations are trivial. 2. Low Vibration. 3. Reliable/Servicable Specific Thoughts: From the Hegner, grab the simplicity of design. Overall, I want a saw that I don't have to tweak/tune. I want the alignment of the saw to be locked in the like the Hegner, so that there is no room for things to wiggle out of alignment. Precise simple construction, that works out of the box every time. With minimal blade travel as the default. Blade clamp mechanisms that is easy to get tight, but no risk of stripping the clamps. From the Hawk, let the saw use as much of the blade as possible with long stroke. I want the Hawk ability to Cut thick pieces. From the earier Hawk, the change of aggression isn't an adjustment, it is a switch from one setting to another. No trial and error to get it back to zero travel. Like the DW/EX lineage of saws, I want both arms powered both directions independent of the blade. Tension on the blade should be constant throughout the stroke. Should be able to run any blade at any speed without causing any additional stress other that what inertia places on the blade itself. I would rather aggression be created by adjustable forward movement of a perpendicular blade than angling the blades. Again, this should be an configuration based on absolute stops, not an "adjustment" that requires tweaking to get it set back to zero travel. Like EX/Jet, built in mechanisms to hold up Arm. Like the DW: All tensioning should be within easy reach. Like Ryobi, mass produced but not a premium placed on the "Brand" stamped on the saw. Be unlike the Roybi in every other way. Make a quality tool, mass produce it so that you get efficiency of scalescale, then make a "reasonable" profit. A simple saw, abeit precise, with simple components should not be cost prohibitive. That bottom clamp has to be easy to get to, and use. Most of our higher end saws already do that, but none of the lower end saws do. I really do like the tilting Arm of the EX style saws, but would gladly sacrifice it to get some of the other features. For me, no swinging clamps. Like the eclipse, few moving parts, very very low vibration (or at least, that is how the Eclipse works in my dreams), but with blade changes as quick and easy as any other saw. I have tried almost every lineage of saw out there, except the Eclipse. I suspect my dreams would be dashed by reality if I were to actually get my hands on one.

Kevin great to hear you have your bearing issues resolved and are back in business.

If there ain't no pictures, it didn't happen Dick..... Just sayin.

Glad to read you got her back up and running.I know what it means to loose a small part.I have done it a few times.They have shown up when I sweeping the floor and no longer need them.