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Thanks to" Mikes Scrollsaw Patterns " for this one .Could not work out how to enlarge the PDF file to the 14 x 11 size it should be .The best I could get it to was 11 x 8 so it is a bit smaller than it should be. I used 3/0 spiral blades to cut this one. Cheers Peter.

This tree face cut from ash flooring, mounted on rosewood engineered sample and framed in crib parts painted black turned out great, ignore the shadow of me.... Lol

This was a fun project to do from Kathy Wise.Got the pattern as a Christmas gift .Right after CHRISTMAS I started on it.Is 42 x21 and it took up lot of my scrap wood of oak,walnut and some maple enjoy.

Work room is temporarily out of commission! Looking forward to having it completed and setting things up. Will use the reloading time to really think about how and where I use things and sort through the "junk".This is before - some of the room has been cleared out. Here it is cleaned out. Contractor comes in on Wednesday to frame, insulate, drywall and electrify!!! As I tell people - I only do small stuff!!!

A Steve Goode pattern. In the original pattern, the dove is just cut out. I thought I'd do an inlay. First picture is inlay. Second picture is finished piece. Walnut on maple, using FD UR3 blade. Spray shellac for finish. I might have to take some steel wool to them to knock down the gloss. My sister asked me to make six of them for her Confirmation students. Thanks to Trackman for blade recommendation and to Hotshot for tutorial. (Can you find the blade entrance hole in the in-lay?) Doing inlay is a lot of fun, looking forward to doing more.

I just tried the adhesive shelf paper from Walmart. Placed it on the soft maple and then adhered the pattern to the shelf paper. I used to adhere the pattern to the wood with temp adhesive and then cover with clear packaging tape to lubricate the blade. The new (to me) technique does not leave a residue on the wood, as does temp adhesive, and therefore the results are much better when I dip the puzzle pieces in food dyes. I don't get the blotching effect that often occurs when I can't sand all the temp adhesive off before dipping. The only downside is that it takes longer to remove the shelf paper from the puzzle pieces. Long fingernails are a must too! I like the shelf paper better than blue painter's tape because the shelf paper is clear and you can work around imperfections in the wood with pattern placement. I don't know who first suggested shelf paper on this forum (I know IGGY uses it) but I want to shout out a big THANK YOU to whoever it was! Also, I think the shelf paper is a better blade lubricant vs packaging tape and blue painter's tape. I now believe I have mastered the technique of using food coloring on soft maple! It's only taken me 9 years! bb

Four inches and still snowing. Not complaining because we really need it. Because of heart problems my wife forbids me to shovel. My wife is Canadian and tough. She likes snow and cold weather.

I I did get it and it was like just out of the box. It is perfect unused condition. It is the 16 inch model and I could not be any happier had I purchased from a store. It runs like a sewing machine. I was extremely happy to pay his asking price of $200. I hope to post a photo of it my tomorrow, should any one be interested in seeing it Dick heppnerguy

Lost my dw788 pictures of parts replaced.these were first cut projects from connecting rod replacement,re greased

I switched from blue painters tape to shelf paper about six months ago and find that it is both easier to apply and to remove. Since I refuse to shop at Wal Mart, I am happy to report that such shelf paper is available elsewhere.

I just found an Ex-16 on Craigslist for $200. The ad says that Walmart sells this same saw for $579. Is that true? Is this saw worth $200 in almost new condition? I need some quick answers. Thanks. Ray

Yeah Kevin you sight a bearing issue the goes straight to quality of the product. You didn't say what the make or manufacturer of the bearings are but it appears the issue in your case is quality control. A bearing is only as good as the materials used and the care taken in it's assembly. Back in 2002 I bought a Dodge mini van. With less than 12,000 miles a bearing seized in the air conditioner compressor causing a issue that made the vehicle inoperable. I heard Chrysler Corp. had those bearings made in a plant in Mexico. Not long after my experience one of my neighbors had the same thing happen with a Dodge van that left them sitting along side of the road with a almost brand new vehicle. My point is I am not attacking where a component, in this case, is made but its quality and the responsibility of a companies decision makers to make sure their decision doesn't reflect badly on a products otherwise overall good reputation.

It is very involved. Must use a "hard" soft maple. I use a durometer to test every board I buy. Dilute concentrated food colors with water and/or alcohol. Dip pieces in solution and immediately wipe off excess liquid. Put pieces in a hair dryer with diffuser for a few seconds. Forget coloring pine as it is too soft. Alcohol will affect some colors and can not be used. That's it in a nutshell.

Okay, so today I was out messing around with my Hawk 220VS.. I had a order come in last night and this morning.. figured since I had just went through the saw and installed a new front tension cam and upper blade holder.. I'd play a little and do some experimenting.. I been thinking about the blade motion between the Hawk and the DeWalt.. and wondered if one.. I was burning through blades faster because the sawdust may not be able to clear out of the blade as good as it does on the aggressive cutting 788.. I started messing around with SPM speed while cutting on some 3/4" cherry... My 788 typically stays about 3/4 + on the speed dial.. The 788 runs 1750SPM.. My old 220VS tops out at 1500SPM.. so I normally ran it full speed.. I always felt that with the 788 the blade just eats the wood like a starved pig, LOL but when I cut on my Hawks.. it's more like just nibbling like a stuffed hamster, LOL I started messing around with the SPM while cutting just playing with the dial.. the Hawk slowed down to just over the half way mark on the dial and all of a sudden the thing acted as if it was a very hungry pig.. now I'm thinking maybe the Hawk actually might be able to cut nearly as fast as the 788.. thinking maybe the faster blade speed coupled with a less aggressive saw may be running the saw too fast for the blade to efficiently clear out the sawdust.. and also creating more heat.. thus the blade dulls much faster.. Years ago when i first started with the 788 I always felt the saw was too aggressive and the very aggressive cutting would rock the board back and forth unless you was really holding it down.. and turns was a PIA.. until one day I figured out the the faster the saw blade runs the less it wants to bounce my board back and forth.. thus.. I run this saw at the faster speeds.. just assumed all saws was that way.. slowing the Hawk blade speed down.. I just cut a clock out this afternoon probably about as fast as I would have on the 788.. with slower blade speed... and used just one blade.. well two blades to be honest but the first one broke because I was messing with adjusting the tension.. guess I had it too tight at first..

Spare bedroom, family room, kitchen? I don't understand.

If I get this one, I'll be selling my Dewalt soon. My wife thinks I have lost my mind. I emailed the seller about a Paypal account. Hope to hear soon. Too bad it's not an Ex-21. I'll be watching for one of those next. Wow. A Hegner and an Ex in one week. Ray

You need to grab that one up Ray, LOL

Yep

Yes sir I believe so. I paid 600 for mine

It would be very interesting if a somewhat slower speed resulted in faster cutting on a Hawk. Would like to see that tested with sled & weight.

Finished with walnut oil. Tree of Life © by Jon Rigsby III as fretwork. Made from Tigerwood. The most expensive wood I ever bought. 16 x 16"

I print the patterns on full sheet shipping labels.. when possible.. I hate getting that glue all over the surrounding area where it's sprayed.. as well as all over my fingers, LOL.. then I just peel and stick to the shelf liner.. no mess..

I'm hoping that it is just the pot. Then I'm in like Flynn. Thanks guys for all the advise and encouragement.

If you are using for blade lubrication DO NOT coat raw wood with varnish or shellac!

Yes I also experience the lifting up in the cold.. mainly just in the corners or near the edge of the board..not really effecting the cutting or patterns..

I'm betting they are not worn too bad..as long as you have been oiling it as recommended.. My old 220Vs bearings was like new still.. not sure how much it had been used but it's a 1993 and the wedges was worn as well as the front blade holder cam.. This one didn't have the newer design with the hex screw on the bottom to adjust the tension of the cam.. lots of things was worn.. yet the bearings looked darn good... The bearings on this saw was a ( not sure what you call them ) washer type thing with ball bearings in it then sandwiched between two washers.. My newer Hawk had steal cage bearings that are open ( unsealed ) and the center of the cage you can see the ball bearings.. These was dry.. not sure if they are supposed to be greased or oiled.. Manual says to add a few drops of oil every so often.. which I added more than recommended.. yet taking the saw apart they was dry..and I really don't see how oil could even get to them unless you'd pour a quart or so on each side.. LOL.. I packed these with synthetic grease.. runs much smoother.. I bought enough bearings to do the other saw thinking it was the same set up.. My sealed bearings in the arm from the motor to lower arm was also very dry bearings.. maybe the grease dried up? the saw was new in the box when I got it in May 2017.. but is a 1998 according to Bushton... Also something to consider on these bearings ( made in China ) but back in those days was maybe when a lot of companies started moving out of the USA and having China do our parts.. when this all first took place.. quality of China made stuff was pretty poor... China made stuff these days doesn't scare me nearly as bad as back in the 80's 90's..

Hope this doesn't take away anything from your post but I can answer Marg if I may. @Marg, I ordered the "Contact Brand Clear Covering Self-Adhesive Privacy Film and Liner, 18 inches by 9 feet, clear matte" from Amazon.uk on the 9th December 2017 (my birthday present to me). It was promised delivery 'Saturday 6th January - Friday 19th January 2018'. It did arrive on the 11th January 2018 from 'otcforyou', a company in New Jersey, USA I believe. I haven't used it yet but part of the English Instructions say 'Raw wood and water based paint must first be given a coat of varnish or shellac', Surface must be above 55 degrees F (13 C), allow at least 3/8" overlap for possible shrinkage' Sorry about butting in but I hope this helps Marg take care Don W PS I forgot to say it cost £10.43 including P & P.

I just made the switch myself, and I wont be going back to blue painters tape. The shelf liner is tops!

Great work thanks for sharing

Fantastic as usual Terry....You sure did a great job on him....Someone gave you a nice Christmas gift for sure

I have set up dust collection on my scroll saws and used that Loc-Line nozzles to suck the saw dust on the top of the saw. I have tried several things along the way to put something on the end of the nozzle to catch pieces of cut offs as they are sucked up. Nylon panty hose is to fine, and gets clogged with saw dust real fast, sticking wires through the nozzles is hard and doesn't work well either. Today I came up with something I think is going to work just fine. I am replacing the sink and faucet in my little down stairs bathroom. Took the old faucet out and was going to throw it in the trash, then I saw the thingy that the water comes through. It has a screen and some kind of aerator gizmo. I took it apart and inside was this little goody, that fit right into my dust collector nozzle. Even has little clips around that expand our so it will not get sucked into the collector. This is a great find..... for me. It's the black piece in the nozzle.

I"ll never forget the Jesus knocking on the door one you did,You are so good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well Hepnerguy (Arizonaman) just bought a 16" for $200. I would not hesitate if found that deal, and certainly don't need another saw....but...

I really wasn't looking for another saw. I just went to C/L because of the deal the Heppnerguy found. It was almost too good to believe and the same price too. I don't have room for more saws. Something has to give. And my wife is looking at me with a strange look in here eye. Ray

Mr. Kevin, in all honesty, It sounds like things are startin' to click for ya, brother. I'm happy to hear ya got the ol' girl up & runnin'. Now school really begins, my friend. Like I've said in my other posts, I ain't got much knowledge of the DeWalts, or other machines I haven't used. But have read enough to learn. In time, with use & learning the Hawks' capabilities, you'll be amazed at what's happenin'. Like I said before, ya won't be necessarily cuttin' faster than everybody else, but your timing will greatly improve, your precision will be like no other, & blade breakage will end. In the year I've had my 26 Kevin, honestly, I've broke two blades. One was my fault. I have high hopes of hearin' good reports on your Hawks from you. Keep makin' sawdust, & keep us posted. God Bless.

Great job, thanks for the pic. Jeff

I always ran mine at just abit above half speed. Full speed was not needed for me. Cherry is some tough wood to cut without burning too so I would think you need to slow it down.

Unusually cold weather here the past few weeks has me far behind where I wanted to be, but today was a good day and got 15 cut. I have to head up to DC on business tomorrow thru Wednesday, so I guess I'll be even further behind...

Well, I like that first one. Dimmable.

Fantastic!! I love German Shepard. That one will keep burglars out of your house for sure.

okay I was thinking of how to do this and perhaps cutting out his number 30 and placing it inside the ball above the bridge just like the jersey. I would likely then mount that on a blue backer and frame with the same wood. thanks for the nudge.

Lawson, what is your primary saw right now? I"m about 100 miles from you, but have a Hegner 14" that I would give you. If you are ever over this way, might be fun for you to play with. It is single speed, and to keep vibration under control, you really need to run it on concrete or something really solid. Though Hegner should really be embarrassed by this version as the single speed sucks, having easy access to that bottom blade is great, which is why I would use it over a Ryobi. Like many old Hegners, the blower baffle dry rotted, so needs to be replaced if you need a blower, but the saw itself works.

I buy all my bearings from a local company.. they know I'm looking for quality when I walk through the door.. I know the guys there from parts chasing for my brothers sawmill over the years and also for the company I used to work at.. They always get me the Timkien if they can.. otherwise the best other brand they can get.. Place is called Edwards Industrial.. I also use another local place called Detroit Ball Bearing.. Yes, I buy the good bearings... and use a good grease.. I'm usually good to go for many years..

I owned a equipment rental busine nd found a company named motion industries carried bearings for the commercial industry. We purchased a good many bearings fm them. The labor cost to replace the bearing can be significant the bearing cost is incidential. always tried to get t Timkien or swiss made bearings well worth the additional cost inthe long run. Found the equipment was repaired for the long run. JMHO

You want to see some awesome bearings... check out ceramic bearings.. not cheap though.. but I think most likely the best bearing you can buy..

I agree that customer service has changed in the big picture. There are some companies that still seem to care, though. I have had my Delta P-20 for about 10 years. It's built well but I have replaced the bearing twice. I love when the saw purrs along quietly doing its job, but when the noises start creeping in I see it as a challenge. I just bought some bearings for $3 each (extras on hand) but the next time I need to replace it I'll do some research as I have seen the same size cost over $30. I'm not sure if that means they are better but I'll be researching and asking more questions next time.

I have learned a few thing,When I get to where I can buy me a better scroll saw.I am going to chk it out before starting it up.

I just tore into my 10th dw788 and found the wrist pin on the connecting rod off the motor had no grease.I replaced it with one i took a motor from and i'm good to go now.

OK the deed is done. Have not notified the wife yet. Just sent the seller PayPal funds. Will pick up next week after the snow storm that is supposed to come in. Spoke on phone for awhile. He's not a scroller. Was his father's who has lost most of his vision so saw is in like new condition. Seller brought it home from Kentucky two years ago and is taking up space in his garage. Has all communication from Bushton. So will post when I pick it up.

Scroll saw. My wife and I were at the Orange Country fair a couple of years back. There was a man there doing scroll sawing on a home made saw that he powered with one foot. At any speed he wanted to within reason. As slow as possible for what he was doing. When I got interested in watching him, he explained what he was doing. Marquetry/inlay. He gave me his card and said I should attend one of his classes sometime if I was truly interested. So, that began my scroll saw hobby quest. His name is Ken Cowell and he does some beautiful work. He saws/planes/sands all of his veneers from exotic woods and sells them. His veneers are all pretty much less than .0625. Ray