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My left steering hand in scrolling is giving me fits at night,and it looks like the right isn't far behind.I'll scroll till i can't someday.These are 3/4" thick,tom is cheap white pine and i blew out the center of both letter "E''s.The laundry one is the same wood but no problems .i slept all day and night monday.That's a rareity.

A Steve Goode pattern. In the original pattern, the dove is just cut out. I thought I'd do an inlay. First picture is inlay. Second picture is finished piece. Walnut on maple, using FD UR3 blade. Spray shellac for finish. I might have to take some steel wool to them to knock down the gloss. My sister asked me to make six of them for her Confirmation students. Thanks to Trackman for blade recommendation and to Hotshot for tutorial. (Can you find the blade entrance hole in the in-lay?) Doing inlay is a lot of fun, looking forward to doing more.

Lost my dw788 pictures of parts replaced.these were first cut projects from connecting rod replacement,re greased

Last week, Sheila Landry offered this pattern free on her website. I used 1/2" Redheart approximately 6" x 6 1/2". I used FD UR #3 blades and finished with spray Shellac. This was a fun project to make. Comments welcome.

I like going through old magazines. In this case, the SWWC CD #2 SWWC Spring 2004 issue #14. I used solid Walnut approximately 1 3/4" x 6" x 6 1/2". I used FD UR #1 and #9 blades. The finish is spray Shellac. Comments welcome.

Dick A pre-stain wood conditioner will do the trick. I use MinWax and it is water based. I use a spray bottle to dampen the surface and let it dry. Very lightly sand it, clean it then apply the conditioner. This way when I sand prior to applying the conditioner I don't have to worry about taking too much off. As for the grit 220 works great for me. Just be gentle and you will remove all the raised fibers and not what was pre treated with the water misting spray.

The saws below $200 are not going to be much. Take a look at the Ryobi. I suggest you look on craigs list or for yard sales and things of this nature. You can score a decent saw for $200 easily.

Five year old Son is a huge Stephan Curry fan and I promised him I would scroll the logo for him. Tricky but fun Posting it here to get some ideas for mounting, framing hanging it...

Finished this Wine Napkin Holder, pattern is from Sue Mey. edward

This was a fun project to do from Kathy Wise.Got the pattern as a Christmas gift .Right after CHRISTMAS I started on it.Is 42 x21 and it took up lot of my scrap wood of oak,walnut and some maple enjoy.

I posted this in my beginner questions topic but I think it might serve better as its own topic. I recently built a house and ended up with quite a few boxes of vinyl click together flooring left over. It’s the life proof stuff from Home Depot with the underlayment already attached. I don’t know if that padding lubricated the blade well, but it cut like a hot knife through butter. I used one blade on the picture below. The piece never needed to be sanded before or after, no staining/painting, and the the edges don’t look to bad. Let me know what you think, or if I’m missing something obviously wrong. It’s 3$ a sqft, but not needing to prep or finish might be worth it?

Thanks to" Mikes Scrollsaw Patterns " for this one .Could not work out how to enlarge the PDF file to the 14 x 11 size it should be .The best I could get it to was 11 x 8 so it is a bit smaller than it should be. I used 3/0 spiral blades to cut this one. Cheers Peter.

Thanks to my make-shift sales crew for pointing Brian to me. :-) Wooden Teddy Bear has over 600 of Harvey's patterns for $3.99 each plus shipping and I sell them for $3.00 each and email them for free and Harvey gets more per pattern sale from me. The attached is a list of all of Harvey's patterns I have on hand if needed any patterns I don't have on hand, I can get from Harvey. Allow 1 week for delivery for those. P.S. I'm traveling on business, back home tomorrow night so any orders submitted may be delayed slightly. _On Hand as of 20180113.pdf

dick, if youre using an oil based stain, simply spray the surface with mineral spirits, let it sit a bit,wipe off the excess, and stain right after. works great on poplar,pine, and maple,too. most brands of wood conditioners are a thinned down varnish or poly- thinned with mineral spirits. typically 1 part varnish to 2 parts MS.

woodcraftbyscott.com is run by Scott who is a member on here known as @Iguanadon he is the go to guy for your puzzle needs. He is very helpful and his prices are really fair as well and the service is quick and hassle free too.

Thank you both for the quick response.. It has helped me a lot. I will go purchase some this morning Dick heppnerguy

Ryobi is pinless. My chiropractor has one and he asked me to show him a few things with it and I got to use it and play with it for awhile and did a decent job. Not sure what the model number was if they make more than one model. I know we were using pinless blades because I gave him a few of my Flying Dutchman blades. Other than any of the other under $200 saws goes, for me not worth the money. Tight underneath them to get blades in. Some saws require tools for blade changinging and that is a huge turn-off for me. You read it here many times people picking up very good condition top line saws from people for various reasons. That is the way I would go and then if you do not like the hobby it is easier for you to sell a better quality saw. I just noticed in Home Depot they sell a Ryobi scrollsaw and it was not the one my chiropractor had. His was red and I believe larger. Just wanted to clarify something. As I said I do not know what the model number was.

Echoing what other have said, it takes practice to learn to follow the line. For some, this comes more quickly than others, but we've all struggled with it. If you wander away from the line, try not to make sudden corrections. Those turn out to be the most noticeable of the little bumps on the edges. Some scroll saw blades follow the line better than others. Check your blade for drift by trying to follow a straight line, on a test piece. Sit directly in front of the saw and push the wood straight into the blade. If you find that the blade has a tendency to pull to one side, such that you need to compensate by pushing the piece across the table at a slight angle to get it to follow the line, that's normal for some blades. It is a symptom of the way they are manufactured. The simplest remedy for this is to move your chair (or stand) slightly off to the side, so that you are not feeding the wood directly into the front of the blade (remember that angle your test piece was at to get the blade to follow the line?). This technique will trick your eye into thinking you are pushing straight, but you will have the piece canted slightly and the blade will tend to follow the line better. My experience has been that trying to sand the edges of these cuts smooth is a losing proposition. It's tedious, time consuming and not very effective. The time is better spent in practice, which will help you follow the line better. That said, even veteran scrollers will wander off the line. Just remember, that often, once you remove the pattern, these deviations may not be all that noticeable. You will be your own worst critic, but don't look for perfection. Find a balance that allows you to enjoy the hobby. That's what you are doing it for in the first place anyway, right? Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

I would stay away from the Porter Cable I had one years ago and it wasn't too bad. I burnt up the motor on my Dewalt 788 and bought a cable {prter as a back up . It was a real piece of junk so I took it back and got a full refund. There warentee says sif you are not satisfied with the saw take it back within 60 days for a full refund, but I would go on cregs list and find one trly it out before you pay anythin for it. IKE

If you buy used, be very sure of the blade attachment/changing process. Quick and easy blade changing is worth some extra money in my opinion.

Lowes sells a newer porter cable scroll saw for just under $200. I bought one a few years ago and it works pretty well. I have 2 other saws a Dewalt 788 and a new Hawk BM26 but i kept the porter cable for a back up. Before I bought my Hawk my 788 was in the shop for repairs more than in my shop cutting and I was using the porter cable and never had any real issues with it.

I agree with John T.your not going to find a good saw less than $200. Unless you get lucky at yard sales.

Oh here is that pain in the neck guy again. ( you noticed I went a little higher on the anatomy) prestain wood conditioner. Now depending how high grit you sand will also effect staining. The more you close the pores of the grain will allow less stain to be absorbed. Also gel stains are more controllable than oil or alcohol stains. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner Are you looking to see wood grain or a solid background?? The reason I ask is why not just paint the background.

Practice will cure your cutting problems. Sand the back with some 220 grit sandpaper after cutting or try using reverse tooth blades. These blades have a small amount of teeth that face upward and cut the backside as you cut. I use them all the time. Does not elliminate all fuzzies but many of it. Use better blades. Flying Dutchman and Pegasus blades best on the market. That wood looks too delicate for puzzle work and that pattern looks too delicate for a puzzle Should never ever ever ever be a need to sand in any fret work holes after it is cut. If you go off line when cutting do a gradual steer back on line and leave it be. Once you take the pattern off the wood no one will ever know you went off line. Do not be so hard on yourself and enjoy the hobby. I always sand both front and back with 220 grit paper before I cut. I use blue or purple painters tape under the pattern. Always easier to take off than trying to sand glue residue off. Purple is a lighter tack and used for more delicate work. The key when using painters tape is not to let the project sit too long. the longer the tape stays on the harder it gets to take off. Good luck and have fun.

This tree face cut from ash flooring, mounted on rosewood engineered sample and framed in crib parts painted black turned out great, ignore the shadow of me.... Lol

Just looks like you need more practice cutting. A mop sander will take the fuzzies off. Just have to go at it easy. When I first started I spent about as much time fixing my opps as I did cutting. Now touch up with sanding mop done. Don’t give up!! Write date on your project and compare your cutting in a few months.

I buy 12" wide to match the boards I use... roll it out, stick it, spray it and lay the patterns out. If you don't like the sticky adhesive spray in areas not covered by patterns, you can sprinkle saw dust all over it. :-)

This is a Steve Good pattern I take this with me bar hopping and have gotten over a dozen $20 donations. John Old Dust

last birthday I get present - cardboard tiger kit of D-Torso. (if anyone interested, here you can buy it - https://d-torsoshop.com) But I was dissapointed when I known that parts are already cut (by laser) and I need just to assemble it. So I decided to transfer pattern to wood by myself and cut. I choosed fiberboard - cheap material and easy to cut. Here is result of my work: video of cutting and assembling

l make a clock of olive and sycamore wood. The pattern is from vinyl clock.

I was directed to this forum fortunately by someone in another and it seems this is the right place to be for everything scroll sawing. I've never used a scroll saw and have a very small budget (about $120) and currently researching low end scroll saws. I doubt I'll ever do anything major on it as I'm also not very good at woodworking in general. It's a hobby and I'm learning as best I can. Probably only cutting a few small things like clock number, maybe a few small patterns etc. I doubt I'd ever get to the point of doing anything intricate. I've read quite a few of the reviews here already, and of course the ones I'm interested in and are within budget have terrible reviews LOL Anyway, hopefully I can gleam some information about which saw I should be looking at purchasing for a new woodwork and newer still to scroll sawing. Feel free to direct me or advise me as needed Thanks in advance

Sorry to be such a pain in the rear to everyone but I am getting ready to stain a BB PLy backer for my Lord's prayer plaque and I do not want to screw it up. I remember seeing that BB Birch will often become blotchy when stained but that there is something that one can pre-coat the surface with that will prevent it from becoming blotchy. Can someone please tell me the Item I need to purchase so that the stain will take evenly??????? Dick heppnerguy

Glad to have you join us.

Welcome to the Village, Jes !....Glad to have you aboard !

welcome to the village

For a newbie there is nothing to be ashamed of. We have all been there. Practice practice practice will cure 90%. Switching to a reverse tooth blade will help with a lot of your fuzzies. For sanding off fuzzies I like one of these. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36240/

Thanks Peter. It was the small pieces I was worried about after I realised they were talking about Contact. Think i may stick to my usual way. Marg

Welcome to the forums. Keep your eyes open on Craigslist in your area. Hopefully you'll find a saw listed there that can get you started.

Hi, Sam, Looking at the pics, I think you are being too hard on yourself. The fuzzies on your puzzle can easily be sanded off by hand, with a palm sander or with a mop sander. The project definitely isn't too fragile like lots of fretwork can be. The arrows on the last photo look like you must have let the wood come off the table surface and the blade gouged the wood. Other than that, I think the advise on some reverse tooth blades may help a lot with a steady feed rate into the blade. God Bless! Spirithorse

most folks, & I say this because I teach scrolling as well, have a fantasy in their mind that they can just sit down to the scroll saw & have an instant creation. My sincere apologies, but it don't work that way. At least it didn't in my world. It's taken me 26 years to get to where I am now, & I'm STILL learnin'. First off, it sounds to me like you're tryin' to get in a hurry with your feed rate into the the blade. Regardless of blade speed, the blade is only goin' to cut so fast. It's like drivin' a car. Ya speed up in the straight aways, slow down in the curves & tight spots. sand all your project wood to 220 grit with a palm sander if possible. Reason I have found is the 220 gets all the defects out of the wood that are noticeable, & a palm sander is not as rough on the wood surface as other sanders. Put your tape on, then the project. drill entry holes & begin cutting. Use a blade you're comfortable with. You'll find it easier to stay on the cut line, & do a better job. In turn, less sanding. hope this helps. God bless!

What a beautiful pattern! Excellent cutting.

Have you tried a Dremel on the tight spots?

Goes to show that there’s no reason to be scared to try something new. God makes wood everyday. Good job.

Count me as a convert with the shelf paper. I get mine at Menards and is 20 inches wide by 15 long. I spray my pattern with Super 77 and glue it to the shelf paper while it's still on the roll. Then I trim around the pattern. Less waste, or so I think. I do not use the shelf paper on BB though, it seems to lift the grain.

Peter, it's an outstanding job of cutting, it's perfectly done. Len

Ok, I want in on this one I buy Adhesive shelf and drawer liner rolls at our local Dollar store ( Ontario,Canada) it's $1.25 for an 18" X 40" Roll and it's white Why do they call it a Dollar store??? That's a topic for another day Fab4 Here's a pic of the label

awesome job

great work thanks for sharing

A job Awesomely done!!

Excellent job Peter. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW