Leaderboard

Last week, Sheila Landry offered this pattern free on her website. I used 1/2" Redheart approximately 6" x 6 1/2". I used FD UR #3 blades and finished with spray Shellac. This was a fun project to make. Comments welcome.

Finished this Philadelphia Eagles Intersecting word, pattern is from Wayne.. edward

I like going through old magazines. In this case, the SWWC CD #2 SWWC Spring 2004 issue #14. I used solid Walnut approximately 1 3/4" x 6" x 6 1/2". I used FD UR #1 and #9 blades. The finish is spray Shellac. Comments welcome.

I couldn't stand it any more,my shoulders and hands ach bad.So i had to scroll something to feel better.All the same project ,it's that i can't get the lighting right

Fretwork is as you put it "actual cut out work -see the photo below Far as books go the "Big Book on Scrollsaws" would be a good one. There are several books out there published by Fox Chapel related to Scroll Saws. The nice thing about the boxes is the include several patterns.

I know I have not been around for awhile. been working on Christmas things and then we had 3 weeks of company and then I started on a rather large order,(for me) and I should be able to get back on line regularily in between my next two projects. I have been making other things too but I did not post any of my work here. Hope to be around steady again soon. I miss everyone here Dick heppnerguy

Thanks to" Mikes Scrollsaw Patterns " for this one .Could not work out how to enlarge the PDF file to the 14 x 11 size it should be .The best I could get it to was 11 x 8 so it is a bit smaller than it should be. I used 3/0 spiral blades to cut this one. Cheers Peter.

I used the Scroll Saw Workbook (3rd edition) as a great intro to the scroll saw in general https://www.amazon.com/Scroll-Saw-Workbook-3rd-Skill-Building/dp/1565238494/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1516803245&sr=8-5&keywords=big+book+of+scroll+saw+woodworking If you are wanting to do other types of work like Intarsia, Judy Gale Roberts and Kathy Wise have great books out for the beginners. There are also other books out on different areas/types of work with the saw. Many of them are published by Fox Chapel Publishing (including JGR's and KW's books.) You can see the variety here: https://foxchapelpublishing.com/scroll-saw.html Looking through the older posts and information shared here on the forum was a great help and asking questions. Everyone here is willing to share their knowledge and information. Then Steve Good's blog: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com and his Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgood/home What other power tools do you have? Are you looking for books for those too or just the scroll saw right now?

The Big Book of Scroll Saw Woodworking is the what got me started. I did a few projects out of that just to get a feel for the process and I was soon very comfortable to work on other projects without needing instructions. Just remember, everyone has their own little tricks and hints that may be completely different from the next guys. I learned what I could from reading articles and working through a few projects from the books. Then I learned A LOT more just spending time reading the forums on this site. There is a wealth of knowledge floating around here... scroll saw knowledge anyway

Fretwork is generally cutting pieces out of wood to create an ornamental design. If you search the internet for fretwork there are some terrific photos to give you a better idea. Fretwork can adorn furniture, buildings, or be a stand-alone piece of art. Hope this helps. And welcome you The Village!

Ray, sanding sealer is basically used on porous woods. Woods that would take many extra coats of finish to achieve a nice finish. This blocks up those pores and you can lay your finish on in less coats which could mean less money and time. But there are warnings that go with this too. Not good to flood the woods with many coats of sanding sealer thinking you now need less finish coats. If you use a hard finish such as lacquers or waterbased poly then a problem could occur underneath creating cracks. I alway like to use Zinnser Bulleye seal coat that is the dewaxed sealer. This allows the use of any finish material to be used. When using products it is not a good idea to mix oils with water products. Stay in the field you start with and less problems. The dewax allows crossovers. Wood that is going to be painted does not need sanding sealer because the pigments and solids in the paint will block the pores. May take an extra coat to get a nice finish but again no mixing products. Have to state this is my opinion. May have to start using this disclaimer more often.

I'm am adding this here from the "Works in Progress" forum hoping to get some more comment. I'm thinking about donating this to the "Friends of the NRA" banquet along with the 2nd Amendment plaque they request from me. I'd like to add some red, white and blue some where to it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. "Completed the cutting of this picture called "Guardian" and is a Charles Hand pattern. I've been playing around with it and the backer. Someway I want to do the backer/frame in red, white and blue. like the American flag. Not quite sure if that is going to work out or not. I have sorta/kinda a picture in my pea brain, but not sure how to work it out."

Pattern © by Jon Rigsby III . Made from Tigerwood. (not Tiger Wood ;-))

The weights are a good motivation to get cutting. If you are trying to stay in shape and lift weights, you can appease your conscience by doing some alternate productive exercise, like scroll sawing :-)

Very nice work. I must ask you though, what is the "instrument of torture" doing so close to a "happy time" hobby? Are the weights used when you are gluing something? I can't imagine any other reason? Ray

You now have a good idea what fretwork is, I have several books on fretwork most of them bought from amazon for as little as $1.25 + $400 postage just go onto amazon books and type in scroll saw and you will find something you would like. IKE

thank all, @meflick, I have a table saw (delta 36-725), drill press (craftsman), hf belt/disc sander, skill 9" band saw (sorry I bought this one but it was cheap), Kobalt miter saw, assorted drills (cordless and corded), 2 compressors with 4 air guns, assorted paint spray guns and I just ordered the Wen scroll saw from amazon for $88.

A big WELCOME from me. Roly

I did everything imagineable to a house or car as a handyman.I never cared for details.I'm impressed so much by what the scroll saw can do that i love high detail quick projects the best,Like key chains for one.Give it a go take it slow and you'll be hooked like the rest of us here .Welcome aboard friend!!!!!!! Forums .

I bought a delta 40-560 scrollsaw great little saw for $60.00.

I've spent a lot of happy years with chinese saws.They had problems but with SSV and trial and error i was a happy camper scrolling every minute i could.Then i got a chance to get a used dw788.What a day and night difference,no vibration ,no noise except for the wood being cut,All controlls up front ,no reaching to the back of the saw to tighten the blade.I highly suggest getting a used dw788 off of "offer Up" ,craigs list,or E-bay,

Honesty a dieing word.

Bahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A sanding sealer is not the same as a wood conditioner. Whereas a wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that reduces blotchiness when staining, a sanding sealer is applied only to bare wood that is not going to be stained. That is per the makers of Minwax.

I 2nd that... Great puzzle book. I sell a ton of these. And that's what started it all for me... I made a few of these for my grand-daughter, then made 40 for the local elementary school, some for the library... ran out of people to give them to and then stumbled across Harvey's patterns and it all snowballed. https://www.amazon.com/Making-Wooden-Dinosaur-Toys-Puzzles/dp/1565238907/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516750093&sr=8-1&keywords=dinosaur+scroll

If you are in the U.S., you probably have some much better options. The Ryobi is not a good saw. I bought that model of Ryobi to use as a "portable" saw. Getting to and changing blades in that bottom clamp make the saw very very painful to use. As JT said, the clamps will take pin or pinless, but you pretty well have to feed that bottom clamp through the hole in the top of the table, then a long tool is used to put under the table to tighten the clamp. Harbor Freight/Ryobi/Skill, and countless other brands have slapped their Name on that same basic design, but regardless of the variances between the various offerings, they all have inaccessible bottom clamps. Tell us where you are, and we can help you to see if there is something better in your area within your price range. ------Randy

Hello Jes and welcome to the village! Thank you for the intro, I've seen people come here with no experience at all and in a short time turning out great projects, So don't be surprised at what you could do with a Scroll saw! See you later, Bob

Sam Here is the sanding mop I use. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36320/ In addition to the mop you will also need the mandrel for your drill. I would use this only with a drill press and change the speed to the slowest or next to slowest speed. You do not want to use a sanding mop at the same speed you do drilling. At drilling speed you will be amazed at how a piece of wood can be taken out of your hand and how far it can be thrown.

Oh here is that pain in the neck guy again. ( you noticed I went a little higher on the anatomy) prestain wood conditioner. Now depending how high grit you sand will also effect staining. The more you close the pores of the grain will allow less stain to be absorbed. Also gel stains are more controllable than oil or alcohol stains. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner Are you looking to see wood grain or a solid background?? The reason I ask is why not just paint the background.

most folks, & I say this because I teach scrolling as well, have a fantasy in their mind that they can just sit down to the scroll saw & have an instant creation. My sincere apologies, but it don't work that way. At least it didn't in my world. It's taken me 26 years to get to where I am now, & I'm STILL learnin'. First off, it sounds to me like you're tryin' to get in a hurry with your feed rate into the the blade. Regardless of blade speed, the blade is only goin' to cut so fast. It's like drivin' a car. Ya speed up in the straight aways, slow down in the curves & tight spots. sand all your project wood to 220 grit with a palm sander if possible. Reason I have found is the 220 gets all the defects out of the wood that are noticeable, & a palm sander is not as rough on the wood surface as other sanders. Put your tape on, then the project. drill entry holes & begin cutting. Use a blade you're comfortable with. You'll find it easier to stay on the cut line, & do a better job. In turn, less sanding. hope this helps. God bless!

Thanks everyone for the responses! I finally found some time to sit at the saw and try the vinyl flooring. Wow am I impressed! As I said before, we had a bunch of life proof vinyl flooring from Home Depot left over from our house. It’s the kind with the underlayment pad attached to the bottom. Anyways, the picture below was done with 1- #9 Olson pgt blade. It really cut well, no sanding/staining/finishing necessary, and I really like the distressed look. Let me know what y’all think. The other picture is the under side.

If there ain't no pictures, it didn't happen Dick..... Just sayin.

this is about 5% of what i have stashed. time to clear house! i did manage to get my camera out and figure it out. it takes mucho better pics.

The buddha is my first time cutting the other two I make many of... All cut with rescued wood in its entirety

Five year old Son is a huge Stephan Curry fan and I promised him I would scroll the logo for him. Tricky but fun Posting it here to get some ideas for mounting, framing hanging it...

Awesome deal. My house saw is a 21”, but a 16” would be much better.

Nice find Dick. Can't beat that price. I have to start looking at craigs list. Of course I don't really need another saw, I have to already. EX21 and a 788.

Congratulations on the saw, Dick, and glad to hear you're going to be around more. God Bless! Spirithorse

You are a spoiled scroller.lol

Not knowing where you are located, let me tell you, Craigslist has a bazillion used scroll saws in my area.(So Cal). I see quite a few Delta saws on there and they have had quite a few good or great reviews here. I just bought a used Hegner with all the bells and whistles for $300. Great saw in like new condition. My first saw was a Dewalt 788 type 1 that I paid $225 for with stand and light. So, I would stay away from the low budget saws. Nothing but trouble and might just turn you off to the hobby because of their shortcomings. This is a great place to ask for advice before buying any saw. Be sure to ask questions and I guarantee you, you will get the information that you need to make a decision. Oh, and if you are new here, welcome to the SSV. Great place to hang out. Ray Here is a prime example of what I saying. I realize the table looks rusted but that will clean up. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/tls/d/dewalt-scroll-saw/6467808395.html

Welcome to the forum have fun.

Welcome and Howdy from Southern Tenn,You know about your blade type,also look for a saw with a nice big cutting table,so you will have plenty of room.some saws have a small surface.And just have Fun.

Welcome to The Village! All I have to say is be careful... this is a very addictive hobby. Enjoy.

She sure is. Still is after 55 years. While I was watching two games and had no time for supper here is what she did. Brought chili and desert to my man cave.

Sam, I generally make my own frames, but if it's a real special cutting I will buy a new frame or use one of the ones I bought from a yard sale. You can buy wood already shaped for framing, all you have to do is cut it to fit the project. Or, you could use just regular pine or poplar, and make your own frame If you go that way, you can make the frame as fancy or plane as you want. I buy a lot of frames from yard sales, it doesn't matter what the frame holds as I'm only interested in the frame itself. I hope this helps, now start yard sailing looking for frames. It'll save you some money, and you never know what else you might find that's interesting. Len

Well, I've never tried to cut any of it with my scroll saw, but I do know that it is very hard on carbide tooth, circular saw blades. I've installed enough laminate flooring to dull several blades on my compound miter saw. I'm certain you could cut this material reasonably well, but would expect that blade life would be pretty short on the scroll saw.

Steve Good came out with this variation to his wobble bowl a little while back. This on is from 3/8" thick cherry, clear gloss lacquer finish.

Welcome to the village. There is a wealth of information here and you will find a bunch of very helpful, friendly people as well.

3. It all depends on the pattern. I look for where the cuts are the most delicate and bunched together. Generally this is towards the middle, but not always. I always want to start with the smallest, most fragile cuts first so I have the rest of the piece to support it. And when moving to the next cut, I always cut the edges along side previously cut areas first. Again for support. 4. No, I've never disconnected the blade from both ends. I now have a saw that lifts out of the way, but for 15 or so years I didn't. I was always able to flex the top of the blade get it through the holes. However, you do have to be careful to not put any permanent bends in the blade. When you can, use a larger drill bit. It's easier to thread the blade through a bigger hole. It does take practice to get good a threading the blade with the upper arm in the way, but you will get better at it.