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Thanks to every one for the help and guidance - you're a great bunch of people! Here is my first Fretwork! Done on my Wen (with my new technique for setting the blade, worked great!): I did it out of 3/4 Ply with #3 FD, took 2 blades to finish. I think I can do it out of pine now. Maybe try it again soon - Heck I'm amazed I can even tell what it is LOL! Also got a few Silhouettes and portraits - not sure what I'll do with them yet if anything

Probably no big deal but this morning after breakfast and going to my car in the alley I discovered a small four drawer dresser. I grabbed the drawers. Taking them home I removed the hardware and now have a nice selection of solid wood boards. The reason this is a good score for me is it's 1/2". Don't know what kind of wood , probably pine. The sizes are convenient too.

So I made this today it's not only beautiful but it works incredibly well with my thick curly hair. It's crazy strong too...

I finished up my first Long Neck Dinosaur Puzzle. It is made out of 3/4" Poplar and measures roughly 10" tall x 12" long.

My 1st attempt ar Intarsia, from the Kathy Wise 2007 book Intarsia Woodworking Projects

Couple of silly projects that just made me smile. Old and wise pattern by Sue Walker (Shadylady) 8 1/2 X 11 BB ply. Chicken soup by Grampa 8 1/2 X 11 BB ply. Both patterns from the library here. Was chuckling the whole time cutting the chicken and chef, same as when I cut the Grillin pattern. Jeff

First project using pinless adapter on my Wen that I got for Christmas. Needs sanding, finishing and a backing, but will make a nice addition to the mancave.

Not sure what you are asking but I never found that holder to be any problems and I have used fine 2/0 jewelers blades and also #12 blades in them. I would not make them, just order a bunch. Not worth the effort in my opinion. Why mess with success. Besides it needs to be large because of the arc of the hole. To center the blade you may need to be off center of the hole so now that hole has shrunk if you are following what I am saying.

Drywall almost done. Lots of outlets too - 4 per wall!!

I have a (non-paying) commission to produce 6 limited edition framed wooden logos for the Hearst Lumberjacks Junior A Ice Hockey team. The money raised by the sale of these will go to charity. The pattern was created by mahendra (see the thread: ) then I made a few small changes to his pattern. The foreground was cut from 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood. Portions of the foreground were painted with acrylic paints. The background is 15mm thick walnut plywood and the frame is solid walnut.

I too use a bar stool and what I did is place a board across the bottom rails and lay the foot switch on that. My foot is now at a comfortable height.

One thing I can't seem to remember is to turn on my dust system when I start using a machine I currently have 2 dust systems setup . One is my HF 2 hp dust machine hooked up to my table saw and work benches. The other system is my Rigid shop vac with a dust deputy hooked up to my mobile tool carts. To solve my problem, I added these Remote Switches to both units. This way I can turn on/off either system no matter where I am in the shop or at which tool. I mention this because, the power switch for the Wen is under the table, and since I've added a zero insert (piece of plywood lol) to the top of the table, it's even more difficult to get to the power switch. I'm now hooking one of these switches up to my Scroll saw, and placing the remote on top of the arm. This makes it much easier to turn the saw on and off when I need - for fretwork, blade changes etc. Heck I even have one of these switches to turn on/off my rope lights in my Lanai!

I am excited anytime someone tries something new/cool. Another friend on this forum who is in the Hawk family made himself and me a set of special clamp knobs that have the rotating tips, yet still fit the original clamps, and they worked in eliminated the twisting of the small blades. Bushton did not seem interested in helping us out in this regard (I'm assuming because this issue affects so very few). So, I envy you folks that have the ability to create and experiment to tweak your tool to your own needs. Simply Awesome! On the BM, both clamps use the course thread (or at least the same thread), so that might be an option for you. For my own use, I would rather the thinner metric threads that are used by the Hegner as I would love to use those clamp knobs. -------Randy

The only other saw I had was a Ryobi. For a while had three Hawks now I have only two. I convinced a friend that he really needed a saw and took the 14" off my hands. I'm sold on the hawk. I can repair everything myself. I'll keep both saws. I do think if I were to find an old Hegner cheap I will be tempted to purchase it.

Kevin, I have had the Seyco cyclonic action vac system for about 8 months and am very happy with it....the knock out jar catches 95% of the dust so i do not have to change the filter in the vac often...as quite as anything in the shop.....I would buy it again !

I really think you are asking a unanswerable question. What makes it worth it to me may mean nothing to you, and vice versa.

I first used the on/off switch and then I got the dead man one which I like better, my set-up is the same as Iggy (shopvac and switch together).

Those are great. I use to have to leave the house when my Dad cooked crabs we caught. Throw them in boiling water alive. I swear I could hear them,,,"Help me! help me!!"

I have tried both FD and Olson blades mentioned but I prefer Olson's match baldes. They seem to last longer At $0.40 per blade that matters to me. IKE

Hear you go.https://mikesworkshop.com/

Another "dead man" type switch user.

Deadman. Works great and has made a great change for the positive for me.

I use the dead man style and sit. after many years it is second nature now and don't even think about it just automatic.

I guess I just need a shorter stool... I sit while sawing, however because of the stand design of the Hawk.. I always feel like there is nowhere to put your legs.. and to reach the foot switch I have to set at the edge of the stool etc.. My deWalt I have the switch zip tied to the ledge near the bottom of the stand and I typically have one foot resting on the switch and the other on the bottom bar of the stool.. most comfortable sawing on the DeWalt.. I need a different set up for my Hawks and EX 21 and while typing this just realized I ordered a new office chair the other day.. when that comes in.. I may try this old one at the saw to see if that will work for me..

Yeah Jes bottom line, if you scroll sitting down the deadman type would be my recommendation. If you do most of your scrolling standing the on/off type would be my recommendation. Just for your information there is a design that can be used either way but it is not as comfortable to use in the deadman mode.

Oh No....another what saw is better than the others. Some saws are built to last longer and have parts available. While there are some who feel a Hegner is not a Cadillac, that is OK because I have never owned a Cadillac and my Chevy got me everywhere. What saw is best depends on what you are doing. Are you doing fret work, Intarsia or something with very small blades. Are you doing production work to sell stuff. My Hegner was bought used and is + 20 years old. Parts are still available IF I would need them. How many of the others will do that and still have parts.

Leave it to you Ray to use it as truly a dead... man... switch....

Sadly the electrician won't be out until Tuesday. I was hoping to load up the room this weekend. It sure is looking pretty!!

I like that set up Ray.. not sure but just guessing here.. I'd have upwards of over $ invested in plumbing up 5 saws with this type set up.. unless I could rig it up to be easily removed quicky and adapt to whatever saw I want to sit at for the day.. which is why I had the Seyco Vac in mind.. small out of the way.. Not sure how it is attached to the saw though so maybe it's not as portable as I think it is.. Do like the idea of having the vacuum to clean the whole shop.. but then. I also have a big shop vac.. that has a 10ft hose and a 20ft cord.. I clean from one end to the other of my 24 x 32 shop without having to unplug it.. but I do need to have it roll around the shop to accomplish that..

Waiting is the hardest part. I'm kinda anxious for you.

I don't think there are inserts that small. A coarse thread works fine in aluminum. octoolguy reacted to a post in a topic Hawk Lower Blade Clamp 11 hours ago

They look just great! Well done, Thank you for posting, Bob

Yes it seems beard Combs are similar, lots of them on Pinterest to check out should you wish

Thank you all very much for your opinions. It is very much appreciated.

If I were you, I'd buy their sample packs.. most of the blade manufactures offer packs of samples of different size blades.. When I was wanting to TRY the Pegas brand.. I ordered the ready made sample packs of each style blade style they offered except the spirals as I didn't even know they had spirals at the time.. from reverse tooth - the modified geometry ones.. This way I was able to try each blade style in several different sizes.. to see what works for me best.. It's a little bit of money up front doing this way.. but getting the best working blade for your type of scroll sawing will greatly improve your work and your fun of scroll sawing. I do this because the different styles and brands are that much different.. ie where I used to use a FD - UR #5 blade.. in the Pegas I can cut with the #3 MFGY blade.. Also when I drill the smaller holes for fine detail work.. the number 5 blade from Pegas won't fit in the hole as the #5 FD-UR will.. so the numbering system isn't really the same through all of the blade brands and styles.. #5 blade on 5/16 BB is pretty aggressive especially on the DeWalt and for someone just starting out.. bet you had a hard time in the tight turns with a blade like that one.. as you mentioned in my video how I do the tight corners with ease..

Jobs Very Well done.Now your Hooked.And that's a Goog thing.

The main plus on Hegners is that it will last forever. I killed a new Dewalt in under two years. I worked it too hard. If I did fretwork I would consider a different saw than a Hegner but I do not do fretwork.

Thank you Frank,now back to wood burning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There fun to do and even better to look at when finished !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,Thanks Bobscroll !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I still need a yellow backer on it and paint the superman part red Then it will pop! Thanks Bobby !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hang on to those, you will want to compare as you go. Nice work.

Very nice work! I really like the way you cut that and the size.. great job

Thats great, you are on a roll with finds, the Hawk saw, now wood, Rj

that's a fantastic job, their both beautiful

You did beautiful job on them portraits Marge! Thanks for posting, Bob

Your work is impeccable !

Ash is among my favourite woods to cut.

Hi Jim: If the articulating blade clamp is lighter than the factory original, vibrations would be reduced simply because the inertia would be reduced as the articulating arm and attached blade clamp reverse direction. Looking at the changes, I suspect the reduction is more "by definition" than actively discernable. Bruce

I have very limited experience with the EX saws.. but since I bought my new one I've only used it to cut out an ornament.. The only upgrade I could see that could use improvement is the set thumb screws could be positioned in a different spot.. as there is not stop to put the blade up against at the back of the clamp like most any other saw I've used has.. Maybe I don't have my saw set up right yet as it's still new to me.. but inserting a blade and trying to position the blade where the clamp will actually hit it is a pain in the butt.. if I can't get used to that then someone might get a good deal on a new ex21 LOL