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1/2" molding

This is from a recent Steve Good pattern. It is made from one board, with the figure's outer perimeter cut with the table set at about a 3 1/2 degree.That allows the wood spirit to protrude a little over half way through from the back. I like the idea, but if I were to make another one I would redesign the mouth/mustache area, as I think it looks too big. On this project I used stains,rather than my normal oils, to try to make the backboard look like barn wood and the have the wood spirit contrast by being lighter. I have very recently built out a new shop and I'm just getting started making sawdust again. I hope to be a bit more active on this site.

Well finally got down to trying out my new Jet SS. All in all worked great. Only drawback had to use cheap ply from Lowes. Had a few breaks and chips along the way. Patter from Steve Good.

I make the last supper with walnoot wood. The pattern is from Steve Good.

Well here's 3 of the Ambrosia Bird Houses I finished. I saw the one's that Dan did with that type of wood and I wanted to try some. When I got the wood, I didn't realize they came coated with wax. I ran one block through my table saw to get the wax off. It was a little messy but it worked. I have 3 blocks left that are 4 x 4 x 2. I might make some ornaments out of some of it. I dipped these in Lacquer 3 or 4 times. I might try a different finish on the next one's.

My wife, who plays dulcimer, saw the 2018 spring edition SSW and loved the trinket box patterns....She asked if I would try the pick shaped one for her to store her many dulcimer picks....This is the result...used what i had on hand, BB and cherry,,,,I have to say it was a first for me...My first attempt at inlay and flocking......Thanks to Dave Monk for help with questions about the inlay...Flocking was not that difficult and enhances the inside of the box......The most important thing is the wife likes it !.....Comments welcome, Steve.

Since I’m trying to warm up and also trying to package up orders I thought I’d take a minute and show what I do for clock hands to keep them from damage during shipping. This is like 1-1/4 inch rubber hose. I buy cheap cutoffs or end of the roll where they are odd sized and probably wouldn’t sell well to the average person. Local hardware saves these for me . I cut them so they fit over the hands and use rubber bands to hold it in place. Been doing this for years. Stated with cpvc pipe that I had left over but you have to put something under that to prevent scratches etc. so far the rubber hose works good. That the daily tip from KevsKrafts

Usually it end up in the scrap bin but recently I cut this Tui bird on a flax flower: I took the "waste" modified it slightly to remove a fragile piece and the place where my entry hole was and surface mounted it on another board. Ended up selling both which was a great result! Rob

A few days ago i asked for help on a 2017 Corvette pattern....Russell, Frank and Terry came through for me !....I started wit franks pattern, Tweaked it a little adding a little from Russell and terry's work....Anyway,Thanks guys ! This is what the neighbor got !

Just got the pattern removed. Took me 2 hours, to remove it, I think for this kind of detail cutting I will go back to painters tape instead of the clear shelf liner. This is a Charles Hand pattern. I took off about 1/2" of the pattern all the way around, which really only left out some of the brush. This gave me more border for the piece of wood I used. Now I see I didn't get my borders the same all the way around. Still trying to figure how I managed that. I will fix when I decide how I want to frame it. Cut in Basswood. Mr. Hand has nice patterns.

I only have one. I certainly don't do enough scrolling to warrant having two or more. If you make your living with that skill, that's different, but as a someone who scrolls (woodworks) as a hobby....I can't afford the space or to tie up the cash having a saw sitting around collecting dust. My wife and I have been trying to divest of "stuff" we don't use so when we pass-on the kids won't have to do it.

With all the talk lately about blade clamps and threads stripping out etc etc.. Do any of you clean and lube the threads on your machines? Maybe a year or so after I bought my 788 I noticed the screws was catching / binding a bit.. I took them out and cleaned the treads with brake cleaner or carb cleaner on both the clamp and the thumb screw.. then gave the screw a drop of light oil.. wiped off the excess worked it in and out a few times and it got much smoother working.. I now do this as regular maintenance.. Maybe why I haven't had any issues with my clamps? I don't know.. but sure didn't hurt them.. Just be sure not to get any oil on the ends where the blade is clamped.. If you do then even pliers probably won't tighten it enough to keep from slipping LOL.. If you do get oil on the end.. spray a towel or rag with the cleaner and just wipe the tips in the soaked cleaner a couple times..

Well here's 3 of the Ambrosia Bird Houses I finished. I saw the one's that Dan did with that type of wood and I wanted to try some. When I got the wood, I didn't realize they came coated with wax. I ran one block through my table saw to get the wax off. It was a little messy but it worked. I have 3 blocks left that are 4 x 4 x 2. I might make some ornaments out of some of it. I dipped these in Lacquer 3 or 4 times. I might try a different finish on the next one's.

I also use anti-seize compound on the screw treads. I put it on using a toothpick - just a very small amount then wipe it around the treads with a paper towel or rag. Too much will let the screws come loose while sawing - yes I did this. The anti-seize is made for use on steel bolts that screw into aluminum to prevent the steel treads from cutting into the aluminum treads. The tip of the screw that contacts the blade on the 788 and several other models can be removed for cleaning also. It is designed so the screw rotates within the tip and not against the blade. There is an o ring on the screw that holds the tip on. Pull it off, clean out the gunk and a very little oil and put tip back on. I clean the screws and tip area with a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol. Larry

I do ever so often. After cleaning I put a little dab of "Anti-seize" on the threads of the screws before reinstalling them.

I've been purchasing my baltic birch ply from Ocooch hard woods. I noticed they had a deal on hardwood seconds. These are pieces that might have some defects and can't be sold as "scroll saw ready" wood. They might have splits, knots, off sizes or need sanding. I bought the 20 lb box of domestic hardwood seconds. What I got was great...received some red cedar, black walnut, maple and oak. These would be great for segmentation, intrasia or general experimenting. I'm going to try their exotic wood seconds when they have more. http://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll_saw_lumber.php

I appreciate the ideas... I tried another app that disables right clicks, but guess what the work around is... Snap a photo of your screen with your phone, download the picture, past it into Word, print it and boom, you have a perfect pattern. LOL Now you understand my dilemma trying to find the best way to do it. And this is what I'm going with... https://www.woodcraftbyscott.com/collections/scroll-saw-patterns/products/puzzle-patterns-dogs-a-k?variant=2187441930255 That's what folks will see, get an idea of what it looks like, then when they order, they get a clean version emailed to them automatically. I'm done now, I've spent way too much time on this, and now I have to spend several days adding the watermark to 425 patterns. :-) Who wants something to do this weekend? LOL

When you were taking vibration tests. What if anything were you cutting.i think that the test should be taken on what you mostly cut testing both Stock and Pegas clamps .The vibration results on the saw just running is so minimal it will be nill when cutting stock.i really can not see it lasting longer than the stock clamps.i have never had a problem with the stock holders stripping or spreading.If that was a concern than i would go down to a machine shop with a chunk of titanium and have it machined It would be lighter than aluminum and stronger than high speed steel.The problem people are having with the stock clamps are that they are mounting these big knobs on the thumb screw.Very little pressure is needed to hold the blade if you maintain the the tips of the thumb screw.

Howdy All. I'm happy to introduce a new section on SSV for Suppliers! This is very similar to our Pattern Shops section. This will be a directory of places to find suppliers of scroll saw supplies. This includes places that sell scroll saws, tools, replacement parts, accessories, scroll saw blades, clock parts, wood parts, hardwoods & plywoods, etc. Each supplier has their own page with useful information, such as Website, location, if they offer international shipping, and an area for additional information customers may find useful. (Shop owners: Add a promo code for an SSV discount so they can track much traffic SSV has sent their way.) And most importantly, it has an area for comments/reviews. So if you have bought a pattern with a supplier, share your experiences with the rest of us. Suppliers list is located under the Resources tab. Check out our growing list. If you don't see your favorite supplier listed, add it by clicking the green button that says "Add new supplier" (Be sure to double-check to make sure it's not there already. We don't want double entries.) If there's missing or wrong information on the supplier's listing, please change change it by clicking the "Update Shop Information" button on that supplier's page. And one last note, many suppliers also offer patterns. If a supplier ONLY offers patterns, please add it to the Pattern Shops list instead. This list is for those who offer scroll saw supplies. Anyway, I hope y'all find this useful. Enjoy!

Results of Pegas Clamp Testing: Decided on using an IOS app called Seismometer on the Iphone. (http://yellowagents.com/seismometer) This app records the numerical data so we can get a qualitative measurement The phone was placed exactly at the same place on the table for each long duration test. Since the saw takes a few seconds to reach speed and stabilize, there are some variations in data at those speed changes, so to counter I started the saw and let is stableze before I started gathering data, then if the data was skewed for the first few seconds or the last few. There is some technical nastiness I had to juggle to get the results, but in short, I wrote some code to translate the raw data to a systematic measure of peak to peak amplitude. Basically, higher amplitude, the more vibration. Long duration testing ran for about a minute so that any variances would Balance out. Speed changes tend to upset the balance for a few seconds, so I eliminated skewed data where the speed changed. My EX doesn’t have speed reference marks, but the numbers on a clock line up pretty good, so I cut out a clock face, cut out the center, taped it over my dial with 1 being the lowest speed, and top speed just happens to land exactly on 11. Vibration starts kicking in 6, but stays about the same until 8, then starts getting more dramatic after that, so I decided to use 7, 9, 10, and 11 as my speeds to use for comparison points. There is one particularly important thing to understand about changing the weight of these components, when you add or subtract weight, you may move the point of harmonic resonance. When I tested the heavier Hegner knob on the original clamps, I saw increased vibration, except at one point, where resonance had made vibration with the lighter clamp higher. In the results chart below, just know, the higher the number, the more vibration. Speed All Original Original with Hegner Knob All Pegas Pegas with Hegner Knob 7 15.0 14.4 12.1 10.7 9 35.1 34.3 20.2 20.5 10 29.0 31.8 28.1 45.6 11 39.8 37.7 35.1 42.2

Never did it. I have sanded the ends where the blade touches because sometimes they build up with oil. Even though I sand every end of my blades front and back with the metal on metal action it can become slippery. I suppose it can't hurt to clean. I would use the same stuff I use on my tablesaw, http://boeshield.com/why-boeshield/

That came out great. I am sure that the neighbors will love that. Thanks for sharing it with us. DW

That will put some shine in your neighbor's eyes for sure. What a great piece for him to receive. Looks great Dick heppnerguy

I have 2 saws. One is a Hegner Multi-Max2, which was the original saw that I learned on. The other is an older Delta 20" variable speed saw that a friend gave to me recently because he never used it. I stuck it in the corner of my shop because when I first looked at it, the table was rusty and it was covered with dust, so I thought it was just a boat anchor. However, I started doing work with thin material and was wishing I had variable speed on the Hegner when I remembered the Delta. I dug it out, cleaned it all up, and discovered it actually worked okay. So now, I have both saws set up and ready to use for what the project calls for. Also, like many others here have said, "One can never have too many tools!"

If you go to the bottom of the page (scroll saw ready hard wood) you will see it. Unfortunately, they are out of stock at this time.

I keep the waste to place most of it back in for a light sanding,And I have on occasion,kepdt them all and made a 3D plaque of the pattern I just cut.

Jim, do you have to use a separate pattern for each color or do you just use one and Just put the different wood under it for the next color. Seems like it could be tricky to line up. Wish they had a video on it. I couldn't find one on muti colors.

Fantastic work, as always, Jim, It's amazing how much difference the addition of the walnut around the puppy's eye makes. Do you also have to inlay the think whiskers on the kitten? Just my curiosity. Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

I agree 100%

Very nice project! Congratulations on your new inlay knowledge. God Bless! Spirithorse

Gorgeous work Paul. I cannot imagine. Hats off to you sir. Thanks for showing.

Well done !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good point Dan. When I cut blanks for pen in wood with a moisture content of 20% or higher I seal the ends with latex paint and put them in the dehydrator for about 8 hours. The wood is thin enough to get the moisture our with little if any twisting and no cracks. I never thought about this for larger blanks. BTW, I have a separate dehydrator I use for my beef jerky.

Iggy, you have lots of suggestions - however your posted solution works! Keep it.

I call it waste, and that's how I treat it. If you save it, soon you will accumulate so much waste, you'll wonder why you are saving it!

I do most of my work sitting and prefer the switch on /switch off. I like the fact that I can hold my work with both hands while I turn on /off

Yes, exactly.. My DeWalt is 10 years old.. and I've done a LOT of cutting on that saw.. has the original clamps in it.. . about a year of so after I got it I read about how it's a good idea to have extra clamps.. and guess what.. I bought a couple extras.. and still haven't needed them, LOL..

Here's what I came up with.

Thanks, I was actually chatting with Charles earlier and had him playing around with one of the patterns to try to skew it, watermark it, etc. He was helpful and I'm still brainstorming with him.

Weather has been a little wet so I spend time inside to put some finish on some projects.

Steve Good also did a review of the Pegas clamps. https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.ca/2018/01/ichthys-scroll-saw-pattern.html Appreciate your work and effort on this project. Thanks.

Pass on this saw, parts are no longer available for it. It is no longer supported by Excaliber, and I don't know if parts are interchangeable from the newer saws. Len

Interesting.

Couple of silly projects that just made me smile. Old and wise pattern by Sue Walker (Shadylady) 8 1/2 X 11 BB ply. Chicken soup by Grampa 8 1/2 X 11 BB ply. Both patterns from the library here. Was chuckling the whole time cutting the chicken and chef, same as when I cut the Grillin pattern. Jeff

Nice cutting Barb. Rob

Nice work!! I especially like the napkin holder. Curious? when you pull out a napkin do u just get one, or do the whole bunch come out and flop all over the table like all my napkin holders? Man I wish I knew how to punctuate a sentence properly.

Hey, I know I haven't been around much lately due to a bookkeeping snafu ( post abut this later in the week ) and I am now just dropping in post a picture of my latest "ornamental firewood" LOL Had a request for a Aston Martin desk clock.. so I put together a pattern.. showed the customer the design and she loved it but told me to make sure I change the spelling as I had it "Aston Marton" Guess what? I changed it alright.. see photo.. I didn't even catch this until I was listing a add on the website..and my spell checker went off on a typo i did and not even on the car name.. on another word but then I looked and somehow caught it.. I had already sent out the invoice to the customer and was getting ready to mail this out today.. glad I decided to make a Made To Order listing on etsy where I caught the mis-spelling.. LOL.. Anyway enjoy the good laugh while I get back to work.. many orders to fill this week and the bookkeeping snafu.. I probably won't be around much this week yet.. just had to drop in to say I'm still around.. just very busy..

Fox Chapel has put out a book of U.S. military Dexigns They have plate designs for all branches of the service. I have done the Navy ones and they are real nice They would sell f;or about 35-$45 eeach. IKE

First, thank your son-in-law for his service. If you peruse Steve Good's blog patterns you're sure to find something. You could make an intersecting word art plaque with "major" and his name.

The color depends on what woods I find in my scrap bin, to use. I do not plan to use any more corian. These images are on pine boxes so the oak I used in the bodies contrasts well, but I am not fond of the combination of cedar and oak. I plan to make cedar boxes, in the future, along with the pine. I will experiment a bit. You will notice the puppy image is different that the first one I posted. I forgot to put in the one walnut spot over his eye. Still works well, though. I wanted to get the two colors that were in the oak that I used for the kitty body so the grain is running vertical, on this one, not my normal way of doing that.