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When in Florida you have to cut some stuff that matches the decors

This is my stepsons Harley

Found this pattern by Janevsky in the library and loved it. 10.5 X 13 1/8 BB ply, stack cut three. Jeff

Had some padauk "scraps" hanging around and haven't made a birdhouse in a week or more. I even made the perch from padauk. The bird is box elder. My wife stole it. I don't know what's more addicting, me making these or my wife keeping them.

I showed the cutting of Elvis now want to show a picture of the person I gave it to. To me giving a project to someone as a surprise is a great feeling! She is a very big Elvis fan!

This is for my other stepsons girlfriend. Pattern maker unknown my wife found this picture of the metal mermaid and I modified it to a scroll saw pattern

Mugs based on Steve Good pattern. I used 3 coats of a epoxy resin and then added 2 coats of Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast Epoxy Resin it's FDA food safe after cured. Beer mug is teak and acacia, the next is teak,next is bamboo,the last one is acacia

But anyway I got something done even after sleeping the morning away.My friend gave me Brazilian cherry pieces and I made a valentines project with one piece.I had to scale down Steve goods pattern to fit the wood a lot.I wet it with mineral spirits so you can see it better than dry.And the name is someone that is giving me a great deal on 80 daylight L.E.D.magnifying lamps new in the box .He's delivering tomorrow so I can try coins again plus it helps a lot scrolling as they are 5x plus my glasses so it is very strong.And the clock is giving me problems as I can't get the second-hand t to go in and turn .

Welllooks like you have some Awesome Info.Everything that is mentioned up there I agree with 100%.You will get the hang of it.You will find that Sweetspot.The Village is always here to help.

Made a couple of these Razorback plaques in the last two days , still like the painted finish and clear gloss glazing them . Have four of these that were wanted by one certain Gentleman . Still like one more to make , have plans to finish these at one time in the next warmer day we have . Thanks for any comments are welcome !

I just finished shrinkwrapping last weeks production... I got almost no cutting done the past 4 days as I focused on getting the pattern area on my website completely re-done. Hopefully I'll get some cutting done this weekend.

Got this pattern from the vault and is by Travis. I think it has to be the best pattern of Elvis I have found. Only took one hour to do just a very few frets but has enough to make a great looking picture!

Paw - key hanger birch plywood 6mm (1/4 inch), stain size 5x5 inches

This is from a recent Steve Good pattern. It is made from one board, with the figure's outer perimeter cut with the table set at about a 3 1/2 degree.That allows the wood spirit to protrude a little over half way through from the back. I like the idea, but if I were to make another one I would redesign the mouth/mustache area, as I think it looks too big. On this project I used stains,rather than my normal oils, to try to make the backboard look like barn wood and the have the wood spirit contrast by being lighter. I have very recently built out a new shop and I'm just getting started making sawdust again. I hope to be a bit more active on this site.

Just got the pattern removed. Took me 2 hours, to remove it, I think for this kind of detail cutting I will go back to painters tape instead of the clear shelf liner. This is a Charles Hand pattern. I took off about 1/2" of the pattern all the way around, which really only left out some of the brush. This gave me more border for the piece of wood I used. Now I see I didn't get my borders the same all the way around. Still trying to figure how I managed that. I will fix when I decide how I want to frame it. Cut in Basswood. Mr. Hand has nice patterns.

“If it isn’t broke don’t fix it” is an old saying meaning if something is working for you there isn’t a need to change anything.

There are a lot of things that cause blades to break. The bigger ones are speed and feed rate. If your speed is too high or your forcing the blade through the cut that is almost guaranteed breakage. Using inferior blades will cause this also. Choosing the right blade, the right speed and the right feed rate is critical in scroll sawing. Takes time to learn all of this. Olsen produced a chart for their blades. The blade chart can be found here. Great information for folks starting out.

Where are the blades breaking can be an indication of your problem. Are they breaking in the same place?? Is it different materials that they are breaking in?? I do not know who makes those blades for them but Flying Dutchman and Pegus blades are the best on the market for wood cutting. Prices are about the same wherever you buy. There are many specialty blades so matching the right blade to the work is important. You may want to get a starters package to try different blades and get the feel for them. You touched on a few things that cause blade breakage so you are on the right path. Good luck.

So I got a package in the mail Saturday: Woohoo! 23 sheets if 1/4" BB! Unfortunately, I had already made my first plate rim (1/4 ply not the bb ) and plate stand (from 3/4 pine) - should have used 1/4" on the stand :( Made my first plate today (unfinished) - stack cut 2 1/8" ply so I have an extra waiting for a new rim. Now I have my first plate - waiting for finishing and a backing Waiting for the rim and finishing then backing and mounting One thing is certain - these fretwork pieces can really be a PITA having to remove and insert the blade over and over - I don't see how you guys do those really detailed fretwork pieces.

Well finally got down to trying out my new Jet SS. All in all worked great. Only drawback had to use cheap ply from Lowes. Had a few breaks and chips along the way. Patter from Steve Good.

A few days ago i asked for help on a 2017 Corvette pattern....Russell, Frank and Terry came through for me !....I started wit franks pattern, Tweaked it a little adding a little from Russell and terry's work....Anyway,Thanks guys ! This is what the neighbor got !

Recently I found a three year old Hegner Multicut 2SV on E-Bay in the UK that was offered under the Global Shipping programme. I knew it would be risky shipping it halfway round the world but decided I had to take the chance. Despite being well packed, it arrived badly out of alignment and with evidence of a significant impact on the motor. Fortunately I was able to re-align the frame and motor and the saw is now running perfectly. Thanks go to Jim Browning for sharing Hegner's response to his alignment issue which was very helpful. Denny Knappen shared his cutting of a Sheila Landry pattern recently and I thought it would be a good test of the new saw. Here it is, cut from an old drawer side and as yet unfinished. I'm really pleased with the Hegner, it's phenomenally accurate and exudes quality. Rob

Well here's 3 of the Ambrosia Bird Houses I finished. I saw the one's that Dan did with that type of wood and I wanted to try some. When I got the wood, I didn't realize they came coated with wax. I ran one block through my table saw to get the wax off. It was a little messy but it worked. I have 3 blocks left that are 4 x 4 x 2. I might make some ornaments out of some of it. I dipped these in Lacquer 3 or 4 times. I might try a different finish on the next one's.

I'm using a Ryobi SC-160 and Vermont American blades. I've broken several blades in short order which doesn't surprise me as a noob scroller. I'm looking at ordering some better blades online so I'm sure that will help, but I'm looking for more tips on preventing breakage. I presume there's a tension sweet spot, not too tight and not too loose? Slowing down on tight corners? Matching the correct blade(s) to the wood thickness? All of the above? Thanks in advance for your advice

I make the last supper with walnoot wood. The pattern is from Steve Good.

Well here's 3 of the Ambrosia Bird Houses I finished. I saw the one's that Dan did with that type of wood and I wanted to try some. When I got the wood, I didn't realize they came coated with wax. I ran one block through my table saw to get the wax off. It was a little messy but it worked. I have 3 blocks left that are 4 x 4 x 2. I might make some ornaments out of some of it. I dipped these in Lacquer 3 or 4 times. I might try a different finish on the next one's.

yes. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

It is a Sue Mey's pattern called Nautical Plaque.

Wayne that is very good information for beginners . Only want to add that the information is good for all brands of blades. Pegas, flying Dutchman and others. Fredfret

Being new to this as well, I can offer some first hand experience as well... First, off these guys/gals really know their stuff - so if they say it's so, it's so. One thing that is difficult to get used to from the start is the tension of the blade. Since you're using pinned blades, make sure when you tighten the blade there is very little movement. You should be able to take your finger nail and "pluck" the blade and hear a high pitch tone - if you are musical in nature, it's around middle 'C' (closer to Bb though LOL) Next thing is your push - if you are pushing your piece too hard it will break the blade as well - I've broken 2 this way so far - there is a fine line between just right and too much. I also find myself still pushing too much. What I've found that helps me is to watch the blade - when I'm pushing my piece, I try to cast my eyes back and forth between ahead of my cut and the blade to see if I am pushing too hard. In addition, blades wear out very fast - and I mean VERY fast. As a new scroller, I'm lucky to get through 2 - 3 small works before I need to change the blade. Things that tell you it's time to change the blade include: Smell of burning wood - it is slight, but you may smell a slight burning, smoking - also comes with the burning, blade is not cutting as it did when you started the project. I notice that around the middle to end of two 3/4 x 6" Plywood piece projects, I need to change the blade - however I can get through 3 or 4 1/4" Plywood projects fairly easily. I've not started to use hard or softwoods yet, but hardwoods I am told are rough on blades as well While I know the blades that come with the saws are not that great, they are good for practice. I still use mine to practice. Hope that helps somewhat

You covered the basics. Most blades won't break unless abused. I've broken my share. Another thing is that when blades get worn they build up heat which will make them weaker and more prone to breaking. There are lots of other things but I'll let others chip in.

Very nicely done,I like it on a stand, it's one of the best logos in sports imo. I to have done the hawg.

First, congrats on you delivery. It's always good to have lots of material. You seem to be moving right along with your projects. Second, no matter what you do enjoy it. If your not enjoying it then move on to the next. That's probably why I do so many different projects. I feel that if I do the same thing day after day I'm not gaining anything. Something new is always refreshing.

You are on your way with this hobby now, With each project you will see an improvement! Thanks for photo's Bob

I'm not surprised to hear you're breaking blades using Vermont American. They are cheap blades, & stiff. Name brand scroll saw blades have some flex. the small blades, admittedly, do take experience because of the variables compared to larger blades. My preference is Olson or Flying Dutchman. As mentioned, were I you, I would order at least one of the sample packs from the name brands & make sawdust! Your next issue at hand is the pin type blade. Pin type blades are a different horse. When you adjust the tension on a pin type, it should be a little at a time. Adjust your tension, run your saw a seconds, adjust another turn or two, you'll be gettin close to your tension point. Run your saw a few seconds to stretch the blade, then finish adjusting your tension. The tension will be snug. Adjust to the point where you can pluck the blade, as mentioned, to a high tone. From there, once you start your project, learn to listen to the blade. Every blade has its own voice. If it starts to make a squeal type racket, it's done. Don't try to force more out of it. The next advice I would give ya is to avoid plywood at all cost, if possible. If not, use 1/4". Reason being is the glue between the layers will dull & burn blades, & cause breakage. The thicker the plywood, the worse the scenario. Remember, scrollin' is like drivin' a car. You're the driver. every move you make, sideways, whatever, shows up at the blade. As a newbie, I would spend less time right tryin' to follow a line as I would be learnin' your machine, & capabilities. Draw lines on scrap wood to try to learn to follow. Spend time with it just learnin' what it will & won't do. Blade changin' & adjustment. God Bless.

Nice job there on the Mermaid! Thank for showing, Bob

Very nice scrolling Jeff! Beautiful!!! Bob

Supter pattern and cutting!

fantastic job

You did good, Jeff !

I know your stepson is gonna Love it.Job Very Well done.

Jeff, that is a fantastic looking cutting, I plan to cut that pattern myself someday. Len

well done, that is great cutting and a great pattern! Its on my to do list...

Thanks Steve. I learnt something new today. Marg

That is one fine bike,great job on it.

Nice job on the modification and cutting. Jeff

One more inspiring piece from your work shop in the basement.. Nothing but great work ever comes out of there.. Dick heppnerguy

Jim. You never seem to run out of ideas. Once more you opened everyone's mouths in awh. I can not imagine how you can cut the different inlays so that they are able to blend as one. Just one contrasting kind of wood in an inlay is difficult enough but several different ones at the same time??? Blows me away Dick heppnerguy

Fantastic workmanship!

Was asked to make one and had to use google to see what they were. Made out of quarter sawed curly red oak. Finished with butcher block oil. 27”x20”