Leaderboard

newest intarsia piece. A beaver. measures 14.5 x 20. It has 41 pieces and 6 types of wood. the woods are - cherry, walnut, aspen, poplar, wenge, and quarter sawn sycamore. Pattern by Judy Gale Roberts.

The party planner more than 25 miles away has another order for me.Whoa.I know you want better backgrounds but the shopis to loaded down to even set something down.The "B' is 6" tall and the 16 is 10" tall.

One thicker and one thinner option, these are absolutely great. the oak Combs I posted a few weeks ago are obviously porous, this wood is not, this is sanded down to 1000 grit. My son shows that he took part....I just cut another from torrified maple, it's even thicker but may be my favorite...

My wife made this new pattern for me to cut along with three other new ones in the later times to cut and finish .Razorback and the words are cut out of 1" Maple and the base is 3/4" Maple . Painted and clear gloss coated . Any comments are welcomed .......

Here is Saint Athanasios the great. Pattern is made from Birchbark. I make this with walnoot wood.

Thought I posted but guess not yesterday.as usual, I forgot to take pictures of the cedar ones which went to the yoga girls next door.I've made 10,000 names an finally one called after 10 years and wanted something for a valintines day gift.After i making the names i told him i should have put a heart between the names.He liked that so I did. Old English letters he wanted ,He's Jamaican. $20 bucks,beats a sharp stick in the eye!,lol

3D Skull, pattern by Alex Fox fiberboard, 1/8 inch (3mm) Here is video of making this project:

Just bought the last 5 rolls of shelf liner at Walmart. Not sure if they will get any more in so I didn't want to take a chance so I bought it all. Only $5.64 a roll. I know a lot of you that use this type were having trouble finding it anywhere. I'll see if Walmart still gets some in. This should hold me for a while.

I just had my delta torn apart. The motor was a bit loose and needed to be tightened up. To get to the motor bolts you have to take just about every other bolt apart, it took me a while but my students were quite interested in the process.

Well EVERYTHING.. has potential for problems whether it's a scroll saw a car or something simple such as scroll saw blades.. Yes.. Got a bad batch of FD blades once and they kept breaking.. I thought it was my saw.. until it was brought up on one of the message boards.. Here I was tweaking my saw doing all kinds of things from changing thumb screws etc etc. SO with that said.. I don't care if you buy a NEW.. Hawk, Hegner, or any other saw.. there is the possibility of getting a lemon.. as Iggy did in is first saw.. How the company handles your lemon is maybe something to consider if you have this mentality and think everything new is absolutely be perfect.. and if you don't like tinkering with equipment ect.. I don't honestly care what saw anybody uses or has, what they paid for it etc etc.. I do like to read about peoples experience of a saw.. however I just take that with a grain of salt.. just like I said before.. not one saw out there that someone doesn't have a complaint about.. If someone has a saw that wore out in one year.. maybe it's a maintenance issue.. kind of like driving a car for 10 years and never changing the oil.. vrs one that changes the oil when it needs it... or like running recycled oil in one car and high end synthetic oil in another .. what one you think last longer. LOL Most all lower - mid range saws really have no maintenance guidelines to follow.. they simply think you'll just use it and throw it out and buy another one.. Higher end saws recommend a few drops of oil every X amount of use.. ANY low - mid range saw can and would last as long as a Hawk or Hegner with maintenance.. but they aren't built in a way to maintain them easily.. so no one does it... if one doesn't like taking the saws apart and doing maintenance then one should look for a saw that is easily maintained.. or plan a new saw in your budget every couple years... People buy low to mid range saws and complain they only last a year or two.. yet they never once oiled / greased it.. Any of the higher end saws will also wear out.. if not maintained ..

Sorry I got the "Saw Wars" started up. The only reason I mentioned Iggy was that he was having problems with his purchase from the get-go and it wasn't just about speed. Actually, I'm a slow cutter and even with the Delta the speed knob is only set from 5 to 50%. But I do expect any new equipment to be ready to plug and play. Yes, a scroll saw needs to be squared up before using but that should be it. My whole life, I've needed equipment that was reliable and down time was not an option. If things broke, needed to be fixed immediately or replaced and that replacement better work without calls to the factory or weeks of tweaking. So that's my mentality on the subject even though I scroll strictly for pleasure and give away 90% of what I do. Only reason I mentioned Seyco is that since it's so new on the market, haven't seen many opinions except for Steve's. Checked the other forums and gleaned more knowledge about that particular saw. Thanks to all for your input, especially for the tips on how to make it easier to tear into one of these things just in case madness overtakes me again (which it will).

A+ Kevin

Working in the shop today I was cutting patterns from a couple different designers. One from Marilyn Carmin. Sue Mey, Sheila and Keith and another from Carl Taylor. I enjoy all these people's designs and it got me wondering who my favorite was which lead to others as well. For me it would be a toss up between Mike Fehring, Marilyn Carmin and Charles Dearing. All do very detailed designs. When I first started typing this in many more pop into my head that I really enjoy too. So who is yours ?

This is a Steve Good pattern cut from an extra cedar fence slat. I have a couple of extra boards so thought I would try using it. #5 FD polar. Very easy cutting.

Some women get roses. I got: My valentine's bouquet: 7ft. oak slabs, 25" wide, 2 1/4" thick. Yeah!

I say kudos for taking it apart. When anything is not working right, there is always a reason, it just may be suddle/undetectable. There are a few people out there that are masters at fixing this kind of thing, but I think it may be because they have done it a lot and know what to look for. The club in Atlanta is Dewalt Heavy, so I think the "Scroll Saw Doctor" get's plenty of practice. Luckily he has shared some of his experience with the community. Wish we had more of those types that frequent this forum. No need to apologize, this thread has created some good info from posts like Jerrys'

I'm thinking (so watch out), Call me crazy, but I think In Exotics: 1, 2, 6 are Purple Heart just because of color in the picture. 3,4 Mahoganys maybe two different kinds. 5 is a common "I Don't Know" exotic. Domestics: 1 & 7 Cherry, 3 oak red(?), 2,5,8 Maples, 4 Cedar (no doubt) and 6 Elm. There you have it, take it to the bank! How's that?

I agree with Kevin on all types and #4 is maghogany. I have some that looks just like #4 and mine was free.

Very tough to do like this because the lighting and angle hitting each piece. The domestics look easier to tell. My guesses #1- poplar #4 aromatic cedar (should smell) #6-white oak or ash #8-maple (soft maple) #7- cherry Others I can not see well. Exotics #2-purpleheart all others the light is off.

Domestic 1-7 Cherry ( I use mostly cherry so that was easy LOL) 8 is Maple ( also use a bit of that ) 4 Cedar 3-6 Oak? Not a great view so not sure.. 2 Poplar? Also not a great view.. Exotic 1-2 Purple Heart? 4 Resembles Mahogany ?

where did you buy the wood? can you look at other things they normally stock? sometimes it helps. exotic # 2 is purple heart. for domestics - 2, 5, and 8 are all pretty light, my guess is maple. I don't usually see poplar where I buy my "good wood" usually only at the hardware stores so that is why I am guessing that. #6 looks like oak, and 3 could be also, but it is hard to tell from the picture. 1 and or 7 could be cherry

Very nice - I aspire to one day be able to take on an Intarsia project - I really admire them

I forgot that I had my wife's card until it came up on Facebook memories today. I am going to make a version of this for next year as we are both chocoholics.

I made a version of Don's sign. I really like ice cream so it is high praise coming from me

I love every minute of it... I have a new routine now... Day 1 - Cut outline of 20 puzzles laid out on a 6' board and do the internal cuts on 10 of them Day 2 - Cut the 10 from prior day into puzzle pieces, then do the internal cuts on the other 10 Day 3 - Cut the 10 from prior day into puzzle pieces, then lay out the 20 patterns on a new 6' board Repeat... Getting 20 done every 3 days, keeps a nice flow going. Any day I have some extra time, I get a jump on the next day activities. Each day is less than 2 hours of cutting time, unless I choose to spend more time if I have it. Here are the 20 I cut the outlines of today, half of them have the internal cuts done.

I agree with JT.. Everyone will have a different like or dislike about a saw.. I was sort of on the same kick as Iggy with the speed issue.. But I am always determined to find a way.. Hundreds i people out there that love their Hawks.. I've been playing with my Hawk saw with different blade configurations etc.. and I now have been sawing since around the new year solely on my Hawk 226.. and growing to love the saw.. Something that bugged me with the Ex I bought is having to lift the arm up.. For some reason I just hate that.. and the thing I love about my Hawk and the DeWalt with the easy lift attachment.. While again.. I haven't used my EX-21 but to cut two ornaments.. Maybe in time I could grow used to it. .. as I have with the other saws... I wouldn't let one or two peoples bad experience's influence a decision of a tool.. In many cases.. their opinions are bias to what they are used to.. BUT.. at any rate.. My point for posting this is.. I think anyone with time can and will adjust to different saws as I've done.. I remember loving how smooth my DW-788 ran when I first got it.. but boy did I hate how aggressive it was to cut on..then going to a saw that wasn't as aggressive was like watching snails passing you on a highway LOL.. I was persistent to use it because I just spent big money ( at the time in my Financial standpoint) and was just determined to use it.. which in time I did..Sometimes in learning to use a different type saw.. you need to re-learn your go to blade selection etc.. but in time you'll figure out how to best use that particular saw..

Very nice!! I got a nice piece of ash one year, we had lots of fun with that.

Well my Delta 40-694 saw started to make some more noise and wasn't cutting as efficiently ( the curse of Deltas and DeWalts). 2 1/2 years old with some moderately tough cutting for my intarsia projects and fretwork projects. So I bit the bullet and decided it was time to take it apart and service it. Now you guys and gals have to realize that I'm a mechanical putz but fearless. Well with parts flying everywhere and banging up my dainty hands, got it apart. Bearing sleeves looked good and decided to just grease everything and put it back together. Now of course finding the right nut, bolt washer etc etc. was a challenge for my feeble neurons, but lo and behold it's back together and running. It's still not quite as good when I took it out of the box new, but much better. I realized two things. One, they are PIA to work on and probably will never do it again. Two, will be searching for the scroll saw of my dreams when I win the lotto. Right now the Seyco intrigues me since Steve Good likes it so much. Forget the Hawk with Iggys problems. I can buy a lot of beer for the price of a Hegner. So it's on to a few more projects with the Delta. Opinions are welcome.

I have a HF drill press going on 3 years now....it has met my needs up to this point ...my advice would be spend a little more...My next one will have the crank table and a lot less spindle run out (Wobble ).... Good luck !

Kevin, I don't know if this helps. First photo is the lower end of the tension rod on my 216vs. The washer means I forgot to remove it. Second photo is the upper part of the tensioner. When I bought this saw the blue lever was missing. The previous owner replaced it with a 2-1/2" knob for tensioning. The rod is 1/4-20 all thread because I happened to have it. It works quite we. Photos three and four are the lower and upper tensioners. This saw is a 220vs Ultra. The fifth photo is the original Tension rod. It is just under 9-1/2". The blue lever has a brass threaded knob threaded into the round holder for the rod. I did this because after scrolling for a time the threaded rod would turn and lessen the tension. The brass knob prevents that. Thus I do not pay attention to the clock diagram for tension. I just set the tension and forget it.

Way to go Monti, most men would need to have his casket made out of that stock, if he ever gave that to his wife for a Valentine's gift. Len

Sweet as is a common Kiwi expression. Aotearoa is the Maori name for New Zealand.

Owning some of your work I can appreciate seeing this more knowing full well it could not have been done any better! So beautiful to see thanks, Clayton.

Very nicely done Clayton. That came out fantastic. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Great work, Clayton, as always! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Great job!

Looks great thanks for sharing

Nice work thanks for sharing

That is just really really neat!! Great work.

Cut from old birch flooring, mounted on a crib backboard, framed with an entertainment unit

you bought a used saw & are tryin' to make a new one out of it. Never happen. You can spend $$$$$$$$$$ til your wife finally asks wth you're doin', & you've still got a used saw with dollars worth of new guts! If you're serious about buyin' a new saw, read & study the reviews. Get your hands on the one you THINK you may have an interest in. Look into tech support & parts replacement. As mentioned, you can't judge a horse by its looks. As far as eliminating one breed of saw bcause of one fellers bad turn out, it isn't only not fair to the saw breed, but to yourself. Every saw has its own capabilities, features, cutting speeds, etc., but so does the man operatin' the saw. What are your capibilities? What do you want out of your saw? Are you cuttin' in a production type setting & need aggressiveness & speed for your operation? Or do you need precision cuts in your projects for appearance & the ability to catch your customers' eye? I'm a Hawk owner. On my second Hawk. I have several reasons for ownership, but one of the main ones is precision cuttin' in my projects, & neatness of cuts in the end. No, they don't cut as fast as others, but there are reasons for that. I don't get in any hurry when cuttin' a project. The only one I have to impress is my customer. Also, Precision, neatness, & ability to cut straighter, smoother lines. Look for deals that ain't fallin' apart, & you have the capability of makin' a judgement call on. You'll be satisfied in the end.

You are a lucky one, Good on you! Thank for photo's Bob

I know Valentine's Day was yesterday, but I'm still trying to figure out how to scroll a dozen roses, a box of chocolates and dinner out.

Oh, I see, I didn't read the rules... okay but it was your "idea" to use someone else's pattern. That has to count.

I wanted to do thats also,I just didn't have a different stain on hand.Gonna have to build up my invatory.

something else to keep in mind when you're shoppin' for Luan. There is an 1/8" underlayment available, too. Personally, the under layment would be better for ya than Luan. It'd be stronger, less chippin', & smoother cuts. And it would be alot easier on blades, too. Priced out about the same, as well.

very good suggestion. rocking work sucks. i usually run the back across my belt sander real quick to knock em down if they protrude out the back

Kevin I understand but those batteries last for over a year and by the time they have to reset or change a battery they forgot anyway. I have a few inserts that did not work from the get go. The flag ones are some of the worst. I can only find them through Wildwood and I use many of these. Can not find the blue flag ones any more. Only the white background. I ordered some of the 2-3/4" from Wildwood and the whole desig was changed and do not fit in my projects like the others use to. I buy 2" also. I use so many in my military clocks. I have asked here as well as other forums as to a source for some of the inserts I use but have come up empty. getting tougher to find my inserts.

Yeah I know luan is not great I also use hardwoods too. Sometimes I like to use luan for certain projects.This one was made from luan.I should of stack cut it.

Kevin you know this is one of my primary forms of scrolling and selling and I make hundreds of different clocks over the years and still do. When I do a craft show it is alot easier to deal with what you are asking because the person is in front of you. I always change the battery right there for them to a fresh battery. These are so cheap it is a no brainer. When you buy in bulk and from China such as you did they usually send batteries separately or have the plastic tab to keep the stem out so the clock is not running. They use to include a small piece of paper for each clock insert that had instructions on it to change the time. I always attach that along with a short message as to how to get the insert out of the clock on the bottom of each base and if the clock has no base I include it attached to my business card. I have shown a photo of this set-up. At the show I show the person what I am doing so they have an idea and if it is a gift I also tell them of the instructions. Now when at a show I can see a clock is running when I installed but things do happen and I give all customers a lifetime guarantee for replacement if it stops working. I do this also when sending clocks. These instructions are included on the sales receipt I send with them. Not sure if dealers are still sending those pieces of paper but I just make copies if I do not have them. I always set the time for what time zone if sending and if selling at show. Now for larger clocks I also include a battery because these are just alkaline batteries and there is no law against sending them in the mail (that I am aware of). I wrap the battery in bubble wrap separately and do not install it because you do not want the hands moving and probably the battery will fall out anyway. But if need be I again include instructions on installing battery and what type is needed. Again on sales receipt or on base. I always ship fresh batteries. Again small expense. Been doing this for over 35 years since I got into this. I do not sell on line so I do not do that volume of sales as you do. My sales are mainly at shows. But always have gotten custom orders and still do. But one thing I do is when I get a sale to send, I right away pull an insert or clock motor and run it for a few days to make sure it keeps time before sending. In your case you do not use as many different inserts as I do so it maybe wise to have some running all the time so you can install one that you know is working well. The motors in these clocks are not as reliable as they once were. Better to know a motor is running well before shipping. Simple things like that can hurt a business.