Leaderboard
-
in all areas
- All areas
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Images
- Image Comments
- Galleries
- Album Comments
- Topics
- Posts
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Scroll Saw Reviews
- Scroll Saw Review Comments
- Scroll Saw Review Reviews
- Clubs
- Club Comments
- Clubs
- Club Comments
- Pattern Shops
- Pattern Shop Comments
- Pattern Shop Reviews
- Suppliers
- Supplier Comments
- Supplier Reviews
- Class Lessons
- Class Lesson Comments
- Help Articles
- Status Updates
- Status Replies
-
Custom Date
-
All time
October 7 2012 - November 27 2024
-
Year
November 27 2023 - November 27 2024
-
Month
October 27 2024 - November 27 2024
-
Week
November 20 2024 - November 27 2024
-
Today
November 27 2024
-
Custom Date
02/19/2018 - 02/19/2018
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/19/2018 in all areas
-
11 points
-
Adam and Yggdrasil
barb.j.enders and 5 others reacted to Montserrat for a topic
6 points -
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
WayneMahler and 5 others reacted to trackman for a topic
I have used FD blades sense I started scrolling and you have to feed the line into the blade at an angle to adjust for the drift. I have been using the Pegas blades and there isn’t any drift to them. Takes some getting used to changing blades. Try the Pegas blades and see how you get along.6 points -
Some blades cut straighter than others. Some woods have grain that make it easier to cut straight. It's also easier to go straight on thicker boards. But it's all about control. Slow down. Practice. Drink a beer. You'll get there.6 points
-
Elm has a particularly unique grain that is easily identifiable - the wood can be a bit tough and stringy (if you have to split Elm firewood by hand you don't like it) - but it is great for furniture and I like to use it for frames - it works well for use anywhere you want to show off a heavier grain. Here are a couple clocks I made of Elm quite a few years ago - to this day, of all the clocks I've made, they remain my favourite - mainly because of the wood. Jay6 points
-
Took a break from Nautical patterns
Lucky2 and 4 others reacted to scrollerpete for a topic
5 points -
Sunday's Sawdust
Scrappile and 3 others reacted to Montserrat for a topic
4 points -
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
WayneMahler and 3 others reacted to Iguanadon for a topic
Basically, don't try to get the blade/saw to cut in what YOU think is a straight line, let the blade/saw dictate what a straight line is. As soon as you stop trying to go exactly 90 degrees to the blade, you'll be fine. My DeWalt with Olson blades is probably about 15 degrees "crooked". Once you learn what "straight" actually is, you'll get used to it.4 points -
3 points
-
hopefully some good tips
jollyred and 2 others reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
AS I was cutting a rather delicate piece, ( depending on what one might consider to be a little delicate ), I realized that what has become routine through trial and error, just might be of someone who had not come across the downfall of this task. So I decided to share what I have found has helped me. First let me explain one thing. The pattern I am cutting is a Steve Good free pattern on his web site, (www.scollsawworkshop.blodspot.com). Steve suggests using 3/4 inch material for this project. I believe the thickness suggested is to help support the delicate cuts and give it added strength so anyone can cut it successfully. I, however, do not enjoy cutting this kind of a pattern using that thick of wood because I feel it takes away the delicacy and beauty of the piece. I much prefer to cut this kind of a pattern with 1/8th inch material to bring out the beauty of the piece. So what I do to help combat the delicate parts from breaking off, is to first of all stack cut it in 2 or three layers. I still us only 1/8 inch stock. How I stack cut it to make the number of blanks to the same size, then I use blue painters tape to tape them together, after sanding the surfaces and cleaning them of well. I put the tape over the board I am going to put the pattern on. To hold the boards together I start by overlapping the tape on the far end of my blank about 2 inches and crease the closer end at the edge of the blank and tear it even with the blank. Then I hold the end that has the overlapped tape tightly together and fold over the 2 inch piece of the tape to the back of the second blank. I then rotate the board blanks so the second run of painters tape is now overlapping the end where the first was torn off even and this gives me an overlap on each end of my material. I continue to tape it by rotating and overlapping each piece of tape so that now I have ever other run of tape overlapping on opposite ends of my blank until the face of the blank is completely covered and ready for the pattern to be glued onto it. But, before I glue on the pattern, I also cut two strips of painter's tape approximately the length of the blanks and put it on the edge of the blank so that 1/2 of the width of the tape is overlapping the edges not already covered by the tape. Holding the edges of the blanks tightly together I crease the tape over the edge and onto the back side of the second blank. I use 2 1/2 inch painter's tape so that I have less passes and the coverage of each run of tape is covering as much as possible. Now the part that helps to not break the extended delicate parts from breaking while cutting it. ........ If one starts on the outside edge of the blank and does the final cutting from there, two things happen that is not good. ONE, as you cut away the outside edges of the pattern in this manner, you are losing the holding together of the stacked pieces and allowing more opportunity for the stacked pieces to move out of line as you finish the cutting. Two, you are allowing the now most delicate part to be unsupported and more venerable to accidental breakage. So, here is my hint for that....TIP 1 PHOTO .drill a starting hole on the interior of the outside to the outer part of the pattern so that you are leaving the painter's tape in it's hold down capacity and not allowing the chance for the second layer to move and possibly screw up the cut on that layer. TIP 2 PHOTO Also by doing it in this manner, the blank is continuing to support the entire pattern as you cut the outside of the pattern and it is less likely to break. TIP 3 PHOTO When you have finished cutting the outside of the pattern you can just life off the outer part and discard it. I have posted some photos of an example of what I am trying to suggest to you so you can visualize what I am trying to say. If anything is not clear, just ask and I will try to show you exactly what I am talking about with a photo of it. I hope this helps some newbies and helps them not to break cuttings as they try a more delicate cut. Dick heppnerguy3 points -
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
tomsteve and 2 others reacted to Chunkthekid for a topic
I tend to grab a bigger blade than normal when I am trying to get a straight line. I've gotten pretty consistent with the Olson #9 Precision Cut Reverse blades.3 points -
Re; the 2nd paragraph above. If I get in trouble, I move the chair to the right and trick the brain into thinking that the "back" of the saw is actually to the left of center.3 points
-
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
Phantom Scroller and 2 others reacted to tomsteve for a topic
heck, i have days i cant follow a crooked line! im not sure if youre aware, but scrollsaws will have a drift- trying to feed at a 90 degree to the blade doesnt work to get a straight line. i have to feed at an angle from the right side. the best advise i can give at this time is keep constant pressure letting the blade do the work and look ahead of the cut. i have noticed better control with straight cuts when i have the saw speed up higher,too. what type of wood are you cutting? that can factor in,too also, cutting with the grain can be a bugger- it always easier to cut straight against the grain.3 points -
2 points
-
Wedding frame for hearts
Lucky2 and one other reacted to Phantom Scroller for a topic
2 points -
2 points
-
Oooh, My Bad. I never looked at the photo closely. I saw the stand and said OK. Yes my 216 is exactly like my 220. Talk about not paying attention!2 points
-
hopefully some good tips
SCROLLSAW703 and one other reacted to JTTHECLOCKMAN for a topic
This looks good. All sound advice too. Thanks for sharing. A nice backerboard will strengthen any delicate areas and give it some depth too. Thanks for showing.2 points -
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
new2woodwrk and one other reacted to Iguanadon for a topic
No kidding, I was going back and forth between my Hawk with Pegas blades and my DeWalt with Olson blades and it was REALLY screwing me up. LOL Pegas blades cut amazingly "straight" (90 degrees)2 points -
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
WayneMahler and one other reacted to Phantom Scroller for a topic
I always make sure the table is waxed and go with the flow and don't concentrate on the finger or you will miss all that heavenly glory! Roly2 points -
Thank you for all for the help!. A very generous friend on the SSWWC forum is sending me a couple. Our new club member is very excited about getting back to scrolling.2 points
-
Exactly like mine. Great little saw!2 points
-
Howdy Fellow Scrollers
new2woodwrk reacted to OregonWoodman for a topic
I'm getting back into the social aspect of scrolling after an 8+ year hiatus. I used to be a very active contributor on a host of scroll saw boards and forums, including designing custom patterns for other users, offering Intarsia lessons (which had an honorary mention in Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine), and being an all-around dork. Some of you seasoned scrollers may remember me from those days. Hope to see some old faces and meet new ones, as well as share and learn with you all.1 point -
Found time for quality time today!!!!!!!
frankorona reacted to amazingkevin for a topic
1 point -
hopefully some good tips
Lucky2 reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
Ray. I will try with this.... Be sure you click on each picture as I describe it so you can see the entire photo. I only did half of the board for this demo. You would cover the entire board from one side to the other before you put the edge tape on. Remember to rotate the board after each strip of tape is applied so that the over hanging tape is on opposite ends from the previous strip. I hope this helps to you understand what I was trying to explain. if not I could make a video and send that to you. In these photos I only used one board but if you were stack cutting you would have 2 or more boards of exact measurements on top of each other and the folded over strips of tape would be holding them together, 1a. is one strip of tape overlapping 1 inch on the top 2. is the back side with the overlap tightly stuck to the back 3 is the pattern side with next strip overhanging on the opposite end of board 4. is the same shot with the roll of tape creased again the end of the board and torn off 5 is the same view with the overlap stuck to the back side but this time it is on the opposite end of the first strip (you continue this process until the entire board top is covered solid with tape...I did not complete the covering of the top of board in this demo) 6. After the entire top of board is covered for pattern, place another strip most of the way down the length of the top of board on both sides as shown (1 side only in photo) when you take a close look at the end of this photo you will see how each tape strip is folded over only on one end. they alternate ends with every other strip of tape. 8. turn board over and seal edges to the back of board 9. This shows 1/2 of top of board (which would be covered all the way across and down the right and left side when ready for pattern attachment)1 point -
At our age, we are allowed to screw up. I do it on an hourly basis. R1 point
-
No straight lines! - Ugh!!!
new2woodwrk reacted to ike for a topic
0I have used Olson's match blades for some time and then I tried pegas blades and they cut streight lines just like the olson's. Then I tried FD blades and they were a little harder to cut streight but not enough to make any differencenothing that you couldn't live with. It may be that I have been doing this too long for any blade I try I have no problems with. I was talking with my wife and we ddetermined that I started dwith a Dremel saw which is very premitive saw. Thhat wass in about 1965 This has been my 6th scroll saw, The saws we use today are a dream to use. After all those years all you do is follow the lines This has been a great hobby I don't know how much longer this body will let contunion. I do sell some give most away, as long as I make enough to cover expences that's all that matters. I sell my puzzles for $10 ea and or=niments for $6 and don't do special orders By this time you are probably bord with my post so I will sign out IKE1 point -
Adam and Yggdrasil
Montserrat reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
A really nice job cutting this delightful pattern. How original it is . I am sure the pattern maker will be very excited about seeing how well you cut it. Dick heppnerguy1 point -
i cant believe i never thought of that! im always leaning over to the side.LOLOL thanks,jerry, for the tip!1 point
-
1 point
-
Sunday's Sawdust
Montserrat reacted to Scrolling Steve for a topic
Very nice !...Love the tree of life pendents !1 point -
Sunday's Sawdust
Montserrat reacted to Dan for a topic
I love the tree pendants. If the CA dle holder cracks it will only add a little charm to it.1 point -
One of my latest
SCROLLSAW703 reacted to Scrollchaser for a topic
Good one! Nice straight cuts. Bill1 point -
Sunday's Sawdust
Montserrat reacted to lawson56 for a topic
Monti,that is some Beautiful work,Love the Tree of Life.The Candle stand is Fantastic.Hopefully it wont split.1 point -
1 point
-
Wedding frame for hearts
Phantom Scroller reacted to blights69 for a topic
Great idea Roly Thanks for showing us1 point -
Adam and Yggdrasil
Montserrat reacted to blights69 for a topic
Great cut of a great pattern that would look great in vinyl not heard of the designer but I shall track her down to grab that pattern, Thanks for showing us1 point -
Adam and Yggdrasil
Montserrat reacted to spirithorse for a topic
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse1 point -
Sunday's Sawdust
Montserrat reacted to DWSUDEKUM for a topic
Very nicely done Monti. Those are all very nicely done. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW1 point -
Wedding frame for hearts
Phantom Scroller reacted to GPscroller for a topic
Creative and thoughtful gift Roly, really like it. Jeff1 point -
The last time I needed long portable table, 15 years ago, I went to Menards (like HD in the upper mid-west) They have Formica counter tops in a variety of lengths. These are returns. I added folding legs from their and made my own. I passed it on to my son who uses it in his home. Not a particularly light option, but it's fun to make it yourself.1 point
-
One of my latest
OCtoolguy reacted to SCROLLSAW703 for a topic
Looks great! The look of oak is always awesome in any project! Great job of cuttin, Sir!1 point -
1 point
-
Who's you favorite designer ?
OCtoolguy reacted to WayneMahler for a topic
Working in the shop today I was cutting patterns from a couple different designers. One from Marilyn Carmin. Sue Mey, Sheila and Keith and another from Carl Taylor. I enjoy all these people's designs and it got me wondering who my favorite was which lead to others as well. For me it would be a toss up between Mike Fehring, Marilyn Carmin and Charles Dearing. All do very detailed designs. When I first started typing this in many more pop into my head that I really enjoy too. So who is yours ?1 point -
Gluing the backer on the front is a classic. I have yet to do that but there is still time. Rob1 point
-
I wasn't born this perfect has taken me years to get to the point I am now.. at the rate I'm going.. I won't live long enough to even see any kind of pedestal.. But I will say.. I'm pretty persistent because in my mind.. failing isn't an option..1 point