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  1. jerry1939

    jerry1939

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  2. Rockytime

    Rockytime

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  3. GrampaJim

    GrampaJim

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  4. blights69

    blights69

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/19/2018 in all areas

  1. GrampaJim

    One of my latest

    I have not posted anything new in a long time. Been busy with life stuff, but I have been scrolling. Here is a gift for a friend made with 1/2" thick Oak and finished with a mix of BLO, MS, and poly. Cut with FD-UR #5 blades.
    11 points
  2. Cherry. Pattern by Fiona Kingdon from the UK.
    6 points
  3. I have used FD blades sense I started scrolling and you have to feed the line into the blade at an angle to adjust for the drift. I have been using the Pegas blades and there isn’t any drift to them. Takes some getting used to changing blades. Try the Pegas blades and see how you get along.
    6 points
  4. Dan

    No straight lines! - Ugh!!!

    Some blades cut straighter than others. Some woods have grain that make it easier to cut straight. It's also easier to go straight on thicker boards. But it's all about control. Slow down. Practice. Drink a beer. You'll get there.
    6 points
  5. RangerJay

    Elm Logs?

    Elm has a particularly unique grain that is easily identifiable - the wood can be a bit tough and stringy (if you have to split Elm firewood by hand you don't like it) - but it is great for furniture and I like to use it for frames - it works well for use anywhere you want to show off a heavier grain. Here are a couple clocks I made of Elm quite a few years ago - to this day, of all the clocks I've made, they remain my favourite - mainly because of the wood. Jay
    6 points
  6. Made these for my nephews
    5 points
  7. Montserrat

    Sunday's Sawdust

    Some use for scrapwood. The candle holder is made from greenwood. I suspect it will crack to smitherines soon.
    4 points
  8. Basically, don't try to get the blade/saw to cut in what YOU think is a straight line, let the blade/saw dictate what a straight line is. As soon as you stop trying to go exactly 90 degrees to the blade, you'll be fine. My DeWalt with Olson blades is probably about 15 degrees "crooked". Once you learn what "straight" actually is, you'll get used to it.
    4 points
  9. WayneG

    Hoops

    Son has a friends birthday party today who is a big basketball fan and his Fav team is okc thunder, that logo if not really great for scrolling so I came up with this. The ball and player is a modification of a Steve good pattern orange and blue are okcs colors. This is a wall mounted peice
    3 points
  10. AS I was cutting a rather delicate piece, ( depending on what one might consider to be a little delicate ), I realized that what has become routine through trial and error, just might be of someone who had not come across the downfall of this task. So I decided to share what I have found has helped me. First let me explain one thing. The pattern I am cutting is a Steve Good free pattern on his web site, (www.scollsawworkshop.blodspot.com). Steve suggests using 3/4 inch material for this project. I believe the thickness suggested is to help support the delicate cuts and give it added strength so anyone can cut it successfully. I, however, do not enjoy cutting this kind of a pattern using that thick of wood because I feel it takes away the delicacy and beauty of the piece. I much prefer to cut this kind of a pattern with 1/8th inch material to bring out the beauty of the piece. So what I do to help combat the delicate parts from breaking off, is to first of all stack cut it in 2 or three layers. I still us only 1/8 inch stock. How I stack cut it to make the number of blanks to the same size, then I use blue painters tape to tape them together, after sanding the surfaces and cleaning them of well. I put the tape over the board I am going to put the pattern on. To hold the boards together I start by overlapping the tape on the far end of my blank about 2 inches and crease the closer end at the edge of the blank and tear it even with the blank. Then I hold the end that has the overlapped tape tightly together and fold over the 2 inch piece of the tape to the back of the second blank. I then rotate the board blanks so the second run of painters tape is now overlapping the end where the first was torn off even and this gives me an overlap on each end of my material. I continue to tape it by rotating and overlapping each piece of tape so that now I have ever other run of tape overlapping on opposite ends of my blank until the face of the blank is completely covered and ready for the pattern to be glued onto it. But, before I glue on the pattern, I also cut two strips of painter's tape approximately the length of the blanks and put it on the edge of the blank so that 1/2 of the width of the tape is overlapping the edges not already covered by the tape. Holding the edges of the blanks tightly together I crease the tape over the edge and onto the back side of the second blank. I use 2 1/2 inch painter's tape so that I have less passes and the coverage of each run of tape is covering as much as possible. Now the part that helps to not break the extended delicate parts from breaking while cutting it. ........ If one starts on the outside edge of the blank and does the final cutting from there, two things happen that is not good. ONE, as you cut away the outside edges of the pattern in this manner, you are losing the holding together of the stacked pieces and allowing more opportunity for the stacked pieces to move out of line as you finish the cutting. Two, you are allowing the now most delicate part to be unsupported and more venerable to accidental breakage. So, here is my hint for that....TIP 1 PHOTO .drill a starting hole on the interior of the outside to the outer part of the pattern so that you are leaving the painter's tape in it's hold down capacity and not allowing the chance for the second layer to move and possibly screw up the cut on that layer. TIP 2 PHOTO Also by doing it in this manner, the blank is continuing to support the entire pattern as you cut the outside of the pattern and it is less likely to break. TIP 3 PHOTO When you have finished cutting the outside of the pattern you can just life off the outer part and discard it. I have posted some photos of an example of what I am trying to suggest to you so you can visualize what I am trying to say. If anything is not clear, just ask and I will try to show you exactly what I am talking about with a photo of it. I hope this helps some newbies and helps them not to break cuttings as they try a more delicate cut. Dick heppnerguy
    3 points
  11. I tend to grab a bigger blade than normal when I am trying to get a straight line. I've gotten pretty consistent with the Olson #9 Precision Cut Reverse blades.
    3 points
  12. Re; the 2nd paragraph above. If I get in trouble, I move the chair to the right and trick the brain into thinking that the "back" of the saw is actually to the left of center.
    3 points
  13. heck, i have days i cant follow a crooked line! im not sure if youre aware, but scrollsaws will have a drift- trying to feed at a 90 degree to the blade doesnt work to get a straight line. i have to feed at an angle from the right side. the best advise i can give at this time is keep constant pressure letting the blade do the work and look ahead of the cut. i have noticed better control with straight cuts when i have the saw speed up higher,too. what type of wood are you cutting? that can factor in,too also, cutting with the grain can be a bugger- it always easier to cut straight against the grain.
    3 points
  14. edward

    Super Bowl

    Finished this today, The pattern is from Steve Good, from last years SuperBowl, changed it around to this years SuperBowl, wasn't sure how it would turn out, but I like it. edward
    2 points
  15. jbrowning

    Elm Logs?

    A person here at work who had to have a Elm tree cut down and she was asking me if I could use the logs. I don't have any idea what size the logs are or if they are straight or not. Has any one use elm wood? Thanks Jim
    2 points
  16. Made this for a friend on his wedding day you drop little plywood hearts into it after writing a message on and slide into the glass. Something for them to keep James & Fiona. Roly
    2 points
  17. Oooh, My Bad. I never looked at the photo closely. I saw the stand and said OK. Yes my 216 is exactly like my 220. Talk about not paying attention!
    2 points
  18. This looks good. All sound advice too. Thanks for sharing. A nice backerboard will strengthen any delicate areas and give it some depth too. Thanks for showing.
    2 points
  19. No kidding, I was going back and forth between my Hawk with Pegas blades and my DeWalt with Olson blades and it was REALLY screwing me up. LOL Pegas blades cut amazingly "straight" (90 degrees)
    2 points
  20. I always make sure the table is waxed and go with the flow and don't concentrate on the finger or you will miss all that heavenly glory! Roly
    2 points
  21. OCtoolguy

    Elm Logs?

    Beautiful clocks. Your work is first class. Thanks for posting.
    2 points
  22. jbrowning

    Elm Logs?

    Thanks for the reply Jay. I was kind of thinking of splitting the logs in half (if they are big enough) and make candle stick holders out of them.
    2 points
  23. Thank you for all for the help!. A very generous friend on the SSWWC forum is sending me a couple. Our new club member is very excited about getting back to scrolling.
    2 points
  24. Exactly like mine. Great little saw!
    2 points
  25. I'm getting back into the social aspect of scrolling after an 8+ year hiatus. I used to be a very active contributor on a host of scroll saw boards and forums, including designing custom patterns for other users, offering Intarsia lessons (which had an honorary mention in Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine), and being an all-around dork. Some of you seasoned scrollers may remember me from those days. Hope to see some old faces and meet new ones, as well as share and learn with you all.
    1 point
  26. Looking thru my 10-year-old computer patterns I found a few I liked to do .
    1 point
  27. Ray. I will try with this.... Be sure you click on each picture as I describe it so you can see the entire photo. I only did half of the board for this demo. You would cover the entire board from one side to the other before you put the edge tape on. Remember to rotate the board after each strip of tape is applied so that the over hanging tape is on opposite ends from the previous strip. I hope this helps to you understand what I was trying to explain. if not I could make a video and send that to you. In these photos I only used one board but if you were stack cutting you would have 2 or more boards of exact measurements on top of each other and the folded over strips of tape would be holding them together, 1a. is one strip of tape overlapping 1 inch on the top 2. is the back side with the overlap tightly stuck to the back 3 is the pattern side with next strip overhanging on the opposite end of board 4. is the same shot with the roll of tape creased again the end of the board and torn off 5 is the same view with the overlap stuck to the back side but this time it is on the opposite end of the first strip (you continue this process until the entire board top is covered solid with tape...I did not complete the covering of the top of board in this demo) 6. After the entire top of board is covered for pattern, place another strip most of the way down the length of the top of board on both sides as shown (1 side only in photo) when you take a close look at the end of this photo you will see how each tape strip is folded over only on one end. they alternate ends with every other strip of tape. 8. turn board over and seal edges to the back of board 9. This shows 1/2 of top of board (which would be covered all the way across and down the right and left side when ready for pattern attachment)
    1 point
  28. At our age, we are allowed to screw up. I do it on an hourly basis. R
    1 point
  29. 0I have used Olson's match blades for some time and then I tried pegas blades and they cut streight lines just like the olson's. Then I tried FD blades and they were a little harder to cut streight but not enough to make any differencenothing that you couldn't live with. It may be that I have been doing this too long for any blade I try I have no problems with. I was talking with my wife and we ddetermined that I started dwith a Dremel saw which is very premitive saw. Thhat wass in about 1965 This has been my 6th scroll saw, The saws we use today are a dream to use. After all those years all you do is follow the lines This has been a great hobby I don't know how much longer this body will let contunion. I do sell some give most away, as long as I make enough to cover expences that's all that matters. I sell my puzzles for $10 ea and or=niments for $6 and don't do special orders By this time you are probably bord with my post so I will sign out IKE
    1 point
  30. heppnerguy

    Adam and Yggdrasil

    A really nice job cutting this delightful pattern. How original it is . I am sure the pattern maker will be very excited about seeing how well you cut it. Dick heppnerguy
    1 point
  31. i cant believe i never thought of that! im always leaning over to the side.LOLOL thanks,jerry, for the tip!
    1 point
  32. daveww1

    Adam and Yggdrasil

    amazing job
    1 point
  33. Very nice !...Love the tree of life pendents !
    1 point
  34. Dan

    Sunday's Sawdust

    I love the tree pendants. If the CA dle holder cracks it will only add a little charm to it.
    1 point
  35. Good one! Nice straight cuts. Bill
    1 point
  36. lawson56

    Sunday's Sawdust

    Monti,that is some Beautiful work,Love the Tree of Life.The Candle stand is Fantastic.Hopefully it wont split.
    1 point
  37. lawson56

    Adam and Yggdrasil

    Now that is Down Right Awesome!!
    1 point
  38. Great idea Roly Thanks for showing us
    1 point
  39. blights69

    Adam and Yggdrasil

    Great cut of a great pattern that would look great in vinyl not heard of the designer but I shall track her down to grab that pattern, Thanks for showing us
    1 point
  40. Nicely done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse
    1 point
  41. DWSUDEKUM

    Sunday's Sawdust

    Very nicely done Monti. Those are all very nicely done. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW
    1 point
  42. dgman

    6' Table

    Oh I see, I guess you didn't read my reply on my recommending the the Lifetime brand tables available at Costco.
    1 point
  43. Creative and thoughtful gift Roly, really like it. Jeff
    1 point
  44. oldhudson

    6' Table

    The last time I needed long portable table, 15 years ago, I went to Menards (like HD in the upper mid-west) They have Formica counter tops in a variety of lengths. These are returns. I added folding legs from their and made my own. I passed it on to my son who uses it in his home. Not a particularly light option, but it's fun to make it yourself.
    1 point
  45. SCROLLSAW703

    One of my latest

    Looks great! The look of oak is always awesome in any project! Great job of cuttin, Sir!
    1 point
  46. Very nice pieces, well done.
    1 point
  47. Working in the shop today I was cutting patterns from a couple different designers. One from Marilyn Carmin. Sue Mey, Sheila and Keith and another from Carl Taylor. I enjoy all these people's designs and it got me wondering who my favorite was which lead to others as well. For me it would be a toss up between Mike Fehring, Marilyn Carmin and Charles Dearing. All do very detailed designs. When I first started typing this in many more pop into my head that I really enjoy too. So who is yours ?
    1 point
  48. Rob

    Arrrghhh!!

    Gluing the backer on the front is a classic. I have yet to do that but there is still time. Rob
    1 point
  49. kmmcrafts

    Arrrghhh!!

    I wasn't born this perfect has taken me years to get to the point I am now.. at the rate I'm going.. I won't live long enough to even see any kind of pedestal.. But I will say.. I'm pretty persistent because in my mind.. failing isn't an option..
    1 point
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