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The big discussion here in Philly was about selling Eagles gear.As long as you do not try to sell as a license product you can sell anything you want to anyone .I made Football Pens with the Eagles colors and sold a few with Steeve Goods Eagles.I just can not state that it is a Eagles License product. Or use the NFL logo unless I paid for the use of it.When I bought the pen blanks they were selling Phila. Sport Blanks.People selling Eagles gear on the streets made sure there custumers new it was not an officiall license product

1" thick stack is quite a few.. I do not "like" to cut more than 3/4" thick stacks.. and many times only stack 1/2 -5 /8 BB ply.. That BB ply is some tough stuff to cut through.. and the blades dull pretty fast comparing to cutting solid wood.. Really hard to describe how hard to feed the wood in words, LOL My best advice is.. watch the blade.. you don't want to push so hard that you are flexing the blade back.. Maybe watch it and push until you see a slight flex? then back off just a tad? Maybe someone else will be able to describe it better than I can..

I recorded this a few days ago, and uploaded it to instagram.. if you're following me on there then don't bother watching it again LOL .. Just thought I'd put it on my youtube channel.. Nothing special.. just a 57 second cutting out one small section.. Was using a FD - NS #1 stack cutting only 2 pieces of 1/8" BB ply..

Big, 2 day event in nearby Southport at the end of March. I now have 3 items specific for them and will be cutting 15 of each to take with me. They have a HUGE 3 day 4th of July event that I'll also be doing, so the one next month will give me an idea of how many I'll need for that one. My first event of 2018 is this Saturday. First time working with this group of folks. I hope it goes well and look forward to joining them for more.

Well after many tries from different photos, Frank and Mahendra were able to come up with something. Both patterns were good but I went with Mahendras because there was less detail to cut. Thanks again Frank and Mahendra and all the pattern makers out there. I think he will like it, if not he can use it for fire wood. Thanks again guys for all your help.

A party planner on "offer up" on my cell phone keeps me in bread with water and butter for months now.I make large names and large numbers for her Among other things which i forgot its a scrollers heaven for added income and they pick up.3'tall #16 with a 1/4" groove in a door bottom The names are done in 3/4 pine sweet 16 is in 1/4" wood

So Sorry to here and see what happened Scrappile.My Granddaughter like to Scroll.I let her cut when she comes for a visit,I started her out on a slow speed,and held her hands guided here as she went along,now she is 13 and when she is here she's on her own.

You can do anything you want as long as you do not sell the pattern or project. You can even post a picture of the finished project here but not the pattern.

Hello all. You may have answered this in past forums but here goes. I have cut out 1/4 backer and 1/4 art and glued them together. . With only 1/2 inch to work with, I am trying to think of alternatives to nails and metal wall hanging materials. Would love any ideas on what to put on the back of my art to hang on the wall. Thanks in advance. Susan.

Inspired by a friends pregnancy I made this out of 3/8 oak scrap wood. I call it "birth".

Another Janevski pattern. 1/8th BB ply, cut with Sawbird #3 ultra reverse. Jeff

I realize pro and college sport name/mascots/logos are copywritten and not allowed to be duplicated for sale. However (to the best of anyone's knowledge), is it permissible to make say a Florida Gators project and give it away? Thanks in advance

I too like to keep my stacks to around 3/4, and as Wayne said, the UR#3 might not be the best blade for a thicker stack like that. It may cut a little less aggressively, but my favorite blade is still the FD Penguin Silver Reverse - and I use almost exclusively the #3 size. It cuts really smooth, and the skip-tooth design keeps it cool.

I have the blades with the dimple at the top and they cut well but a problem arises if I break one of them while doing inlay. Because my Hegner saw is a bottom feeder I find it impossible to get the dimpled blade up through the saw cut where the blade broke. Through the starting hole is no problem but getting it up through the sawcut is impossible. I need to hammer that dimple flat to make this work. Yes, I could top feed it, but that is awkward for me because I do not like to get on my kees to be able to see under the table to insert the bottom of the blade into the clamp there. In future I will not buy these blades.

Best to let the blade do the work. Apply enough pressure to let the blade cut at a steady pace while moving and guiding the piece along. Also use a #3 UR is not a very good idea. The blade has a reversed tooth every third tooth so it cut on the up stroke. This tooth keeps the saw dust from clearing properly in a deep cut slowing things down and helping to create more heat. This would actually apply to all the UR blades because of the geometry they are made by. A skip tooth blade will clear out the kerf and run cooler and longer but leave a rougher surface for clean up.

No matter what you have read or heard it is impossible to cut in a scroll saw without applying pressure. When I teach or demonstrate to adults I actually put my finger on a running #5 blade to show how safe scrolling is. You have to develop a "feel" on how much downward and forward pressure to use. Think of it in terms of feeding the wood into the blade. Enough to cut but not enough to bend the blade from 90 degrees.

I buy it at woodworking shows in many different thickness and sizes. Nothing sticks to it so that is why it is used in pen making and woodworking. Used for molds because can withstand high heats.

In our world that plastic is called Delrin. Used for many things such as jigs for sawing, molds for casting, bushings for pen turning,and many other things. I use it quite a bit. You can look at applications on that site and mentions manifolds. http://www.eplastics.com/Acetal_Delrin_Sheet?msclkid=d8fc3a1a0719121864fa609596c35fcd&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Engineering Plastics - Specific&utm_term=delrin pl

I agree. Let the saw blade dictate what's straight. Like any tool, guide it along, relax and you'll be cutting straight lines in no time.

I saw a similar piece on Scroller's Cafe, a quilt block memorial for a quilter lady that passed away. It was done my a member named Driver. I just thought it was really neat and so I made one for my wife. Not a memorial, just to hang in her quilt room. Heppnerguy did the pattern for the saying that will hang below the quilt block. Thank you, Dick and thanks to "Jollyred", "Worbler" and "Birchbark" who also made patterns. I will use them if I get more requests for this piece. I really enjoyed making the quilt block and know I will make others. I hope to improve my jig that I used to cut the 32 triangles with. It is just a hair off. Does good, but not perfect. On the quilt block I used: Zebra Wood, Bloodwood, Black Walnut and Sycamore. The plaque is Butternut.

Grandad had an old van from the 50s, steering wheel had so much play you might mess your pants. So spirals, I like "playing with them" and perhaps when I'm feeling a little on the wild side, I'll break them out again :-) I just haven't found anything I couldn't do with the straight blades. I like sharp corners, and control. If I were doing huge fretwork pieces, Dearing style, then those blades suddenly start making a lot of sense.

It’s always fun watching someone else work, when I tried spiral blades it did not work well, RJ

Ray google Klingspor's Woodworking Shop and search sanding mops.

When shaping parts, dust collection is always a concern. I made this up with 1/2 inch pine and 1/4 inch ply. Just connect your vac and no annoying wood dust flying around. It also works great on my drill press.

First compound cut on my Hegner. Definitely easier than my Delta Q3 because there is so much less blade travel. Pattern is from Steve Good. Rob

I generally like the FDUR blades, but for something that thick, they are likely part of the problem you are having with the stack lifting. FDUR blades have more reverse teeth than a regular reverse tooth blade, so they will tend to be a little more "grabby" on the up stroke, especially in thick material like you are cutting. You can probably get away with using them if you cut the stack thickness down, as has been suggested, or choose a different, larger blade with less reverse teeth, as has been suggested.

Hello RAY a link for making a sanding mops on the UK forum by a member who is also on the village https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/home-made-sanding-mop-mark-2-t106328.html https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/diy-6-sanding-mop-for-bench-drill-t101725.html

Up late but still turning out plenty of good items ps if you had no appointments scheduled and you lay in are you actually late for anything ? worth a thought

this picture should show what i do- just some simple twine using some super glue to attach to back

Beautiful work.

Not impossible ,and definitely not easy,work is work!Thanks Bobby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I make my own out of 220 grit sandpaper. I use my dull Pegas MG blades to cut the slits. Yes, it takes awhile to make them but it's much cheaper. I've also made my own scotchbrite balls. They are actually very easy to make and can be made much more quickly.

You can epoxy a saw tooth hanger on the back. It'll hold. Lol.

Thanks Kevin, cool video. Len

I use various methods of hanging items and much depends on weight. In you case I use the hooks that Scott has shown or something close. I have at times also used saw tooth hangers for heavier pieces and ones that may need leveling with a better control of that. For shelves I use keyholes routed in the backs of shelves.

The ones I buy from Harbor Freight look much like the one in the middle in the back of this picture.. Believe they have two different grits and cost about $9... I've had mine since mid summer last year and its still doing decent job.. Use it on about every clock and clock base I make to knock off the edges..

One strength of the traditional type of sanding mop is that it's individualized pieces of sandpaper do a good job of getting into the inside of fretwork to remove the hard edge - not sure this product would do that but it sure looks intriguing and I'd look forward to your review once you've tried it. The other thing I'd wonder about is longevity - the material in this product looks very similar to that found in abrasive buffs that can also be purchased off of Amazon ( https://www.amazon.ca/Yasumai-Abrasive-Polishing-Buffing-Tools-2-35mm/dp/B0722Y69NJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332337&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=abrasive+buffs&psc=1 ). I do use these buffs on fretwork and like them for that purpose - but I treat them as disposable - they really don't last a long time. The sanding mop - on the other hand - is amazingly long lived - I don't think I'd be exaggerating if I said I get close to a year out of a refill before having to change it - by the way - $72.95 seems way too high - I believe there is an initial add-on charge for the mandrel but even so this seems too much. If you do decide to get this product please keep us posted on how it works. Thanks, Jay

Yeah, back in the day if the blade got dull on one side I would turn it upside down.. still sharp on the other end.. You've heard it all now..

When our Grandson stayed with us for a week last summer we did these. I did most the cutting but I did let him do some on the saw. He picked the subject from images on the internet. We printer them glued them to the wood and cut. I left the patterns on and let him color the one that is not all black. He had a great time and displays them proudly in his bedroom. He was just here last weekend for a visit and first thing he wanted to do was print out some more characters to scroll. Unfortunately it didn't happen. We had a big wind storm and I had to get my huge Blue Spruce out of my neighbors grapes......

Great job! I love the scene. Never heard of SawBird blades before.

im in the middle of a bathroom remodel so no- dont wanna show my workbench. LOLOLOL i think my tool box it on it,though. specifically scrollsawing....hhmmm. id have to say the mini drill chuck is only used for scrollsawing. and my benchtop drill press. i dont seem to use that much for anything else since i got a floor model.

hey len, you are correct that i cut it all at 90*. this allows me to choose the depth when i reassemble. cutting on an angle means the depth would be limited to the angle used. as each piece is cut free from the body i remove them. in this one, the words were cut first, next was spidie and his helper, last was the vampire. once these are out of the body i do secondary cutting. cut off slidie's right arm then separate the 2 of them. the vampire cuts are arms, chest, then head with hair. the hardest lesson by far is hot glue is, HOT! that is the biggest reason for the jig... lol in this Hulk picture you can see a temporary frame to hold the body together sense the cuts also compromised the edges of the cover. the 2nd pic is the back before frame was removed.

I buy the rolls where I cut my own lengths. Cheaper and works well for me. Very easy to do. Take old one off and use as template for new one. I buy mine here as well as other papers. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/drsaro.html

I have the same Type Hegner. 1998 model. Slow setting on speed control does hesitate to a Blink, I run mine around 3/4 speed all the time. All works Great there. Advanced Machinery will be able to tell you more. I Believe in them. Had to call a time or two.............. Keep us posted..........Danny :+}

I have cut 1/4" aluminum with the scroll saw, went through a few blades and burned my fingers a bit (metal gets hot) but it works. My ex-husband did a lot of work with metals. He said that any blade that can cut a 2x4 can cut aluminum 1" thick, just slow down a bit. I saw him use a regular wood miter saw a few times. I don't really trust much of anything he said, but their might be some truth to it.

Kevin Thinking you are looking for HDMF. I use in my shop for guides for jigs.

Come on, you have to be younger than me,,,, earth is younger than me!!!!!!

That was what I was thinking of, but like you I don’t know what it’s called. Lol

I would use that white stuff, not plastic but kind like plastic, dang, can't think of the name of it. Used in cutting boards and it is on my table saw fence.... what the heck is the name..... I hate getting senile..... Someone will know. You find it used to make cutting boards among many other things, also, fact that is the cheapest way to buy it, buy a cutting board. I'll get back if it ever finds it's way back into my gray mush of a brain.