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I don't cut a lot but did this for my Sweetie. I used a #5 FD Polar. The wood is a cedar fence board. I really like the way it cut. It has no finish as it has been too cold to mess with it. I usually save that sort of thing for outside in warm weather outside. It is a Steve Good pattern.

Okay now that it was a little warmer out today and I have the EX -21 set up.. tuned the way Hotshot had mentioned to me a long while ago.. I wasn't rushed to get an order out or anything I thought I'd set at the Excalibur for the day... I'm very impressed with the ease of cutting.. fine detail work.. I was cutting out clocks trying to replenish some of my sold out inventory.. Below is a couple pictures of what I was cutting ( NOT THE ACTUAL ONE's ) today.. The ease of cutting out the detail in the grass areas that with my DW788 I always backed in and out to get nice crisp points on the grass.. The Hawk was better than the 788 but not nothing like the ease of cutting this out n the Excalibur.. Another thing.. while I have the blade tuned to go pretty much straight up and down the saw still bites into the wood very good.. unlike the Hawk was for me.. I always felt like I'm forcing the wood through the Hawk.. Not so at all with the Excalibur.. While I don't think it bites away the wood quite as fast as the 788.. with better control the speed of cutting is actually faster I believe..

I saw on Facebook where someone had done a tree of life on a turned piece so I had to try myself. Turned a platter with African mahogany (lip is down about 1/4). I reversed and made a recess for the backer (1/8)

I was lucky enough to be chosen as one of several people to cut a new layered design by Charles Dearing. I couldn’t tell anyone until it was published. The patterns are now ready for purchase ahttps://www.bearwood.com/scroll-saw-patterns-open-window-designs-charles-dearing.html Here is mine. It measures 15”x10 3/4

Got to admit that I've never been a big fan of mitred frames - but after seeing some of the pictures posted above I might have to rethink that - some really great looking work here. Having said that here area some frames that I've kinda gravitated to in my effort to avoid mitred frames. .

Before she was born, I found these patterns on Scroller, LTD. Finally got them finished and hung. Turned out to be a little bigger than expected, so we had to do some rearranging to make everything work. Now You know it’s Clair’s room.

Hearing & breathing damage will sneak up on you after a while. Trouble is, that once we realize there is a problem, it's often too late to do much about it, except for trying to prevent it from getting worse. Get in the habit of taking precautions. You're ears and lungs will thank you years from now.

Being I worked in the construction trades for 43 years as an electrician I became aware of job site dangers from all aspects, not only my trade but surrounding trades. With this safety equipment and safety practices have carried over into my everyday shop time. So yes to all of the above. If just scrolling I wear a dust mask because I do not use a vac system on it. Too noisy and annoying. Just clean up after each session. Have to wear glasses now so safety glass all the time but will switch to a full mask at times if working on lathe or something I know will have potential to throw projectiles. Only use proper gloves when finishing. Any gloves around other tools is potential for disaster. I believe the best safety device we all have and need to use more often is the thing that sits on our shoulders. It is dangerous to be working with any kind of machinery to start with. Knowing and understanding those tools is paramount and having a good frame of mind when we enter the shop. If you have other things on your mind or you are in a hurry to get orders done you are opening yourself up for disaster and possible injury. Think before you do. As they say if it feels wrong it probably is. The use of jigs and hold downs can save time, money and injuries. Most people her just use a scrollsaw and perhaps a sander, but as I there are those that have a shop full of tools and anyone has dangers built in. So proper safety precautions are needed. Work safe.

just thought i would post something that is helping me and might help others. being in a 10x10 shop with vacs and saws running i have found that for a short while i have trouble hearing. the expanding foam ear plugs drive me crazy.. i found a $10 solution on amazon. they have great sound and cancel out tool sounds even when i don't turn up the music loud. i have it paired with one of my old phones that has almost 400 songs on it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0QSOZZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 these are the ones i got when they were on sale but i would have paid $20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739R3Z24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Finished this for a big Bama fan. Steve Good pattern

I received this rescue dog pattern from Iquanadon because I had mentioned that one day I was going to cut one the those animal patterns that he does so well and is so successful in selling. I mentioned that they did not appeal a whole lot to me but was glad he does so well with them and I thought perhaps I should take the time to cut one, one of these days. So he generously sent me one of his patterns to cut and this is the result. I did not put any finish on it and my wife really liked it so maybe I should cut a few of these anyway. It often is something that does not interest me a lot that seems to sell almost as soon as I post it. I need to get more out of my own comfort zone and do many other styles of things, I guess. Thanks again for the generosity shown me with this pattern. Dick heppnerguy

I would like an ex but can't afford and the big 30" one too!

Very nice cuts, the only thing I regret a little is that the nose of the dog touches the edge, I think a slight space give more dynamic to the scene as in photography: avoid closing the view on a character otherwise I would like to cut as well as you

I always sand my blanks to finish grit before cutting, usually to 220 grit. Then after cutting, I'll use the same grit to touch up the fuzzies. I don't always start at 80 grit though. If the blank was fresh of the planer, I'll just use 220. It's all determined by how rough the blank was before I started. If after cutting I think it needs more sanding I will, but I never go above 220, unless it's BB which I sand to 320.

Just using a nuisance dust filter with breathable port is a +++ from nothing at all http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-20627/Dust-Masks-and-Respirators/3M-8210V-N95-Industrial-Respirator-with-Valve?pricode=WB4438&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=pla&utm_term=S-20627&utm_ca I use these many times unless doing a truely dusty job and break out the big guns. Canister filters for whatever the project. Different canisters for each job. I have a few Peltor hearing protectors hanging from different tools so they are right there when I need them.

Yup, too high. That is a type I meaning it's about twenty years old. It WILL need new berings at the very least. If it was $100, I'd say go it, but not at $399.

Just my humble opinion, but I think that's too high.

Eye, dust, and hearing. Too old to loose any of what I have left and above all as JT indicated

Safety glasses all the time, dust mask when making dust, hearing protection when making noise, and gloves when I need hand protection.

Yep. I do both. Sanding before hand reduces the amount of sanding after which reduces the amount of time sanding sometimes on some quite fragile areas.

You do not need a special blade for plastic. I cut plexiglass and lexan frequently for templates using a FD polar #3. NOTE some plastics will melt back together and simply do not work because the heat generated by the blade. Maks sure that you cover the plastic on both sides with tape if it is missing the peeloff cover from the mfr.The sandwich idea should work as long as the blades don't get to hot. Try a small cut in a section that you don't need. The "corian" blades are nothing more than the Polar blades. Fredfret

I have cut Plexiglas on the scroll saw. I used a skipped tooth blade and slowed the speed down so it didn't get hot and melt back together. I only did this once or twice so someone with more experience may be able to give you more advice.

Paul I don't have that tool. I watched a guy use nothing more than a pair of needle nose pliers and a hammer so I use the same method and it works fine. Unless you are making lots of frames or just like to buy tools I would save my money. JMHO

bearwood.com has the pegsas blades. Charles Dearing did a review on FD and Pegsas convinced me to switch on spirals don't know about straight blades yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5g6tD7464o

Yes never enough pictures!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I really like those first two. Perfect frames for the subject and I'd wager they fit very neatly into the style homes in Montana.

More than one way to skin a cat. The have a device called a hammer... or glue joint then drive a brad ir staple in through one side or a dowel or a spline, etc...

Hi, I'm Randy I have been scrolling off and on for 15 years. My first saw was bought at an Ace Hardware store by my wife as a present for me. My dad started scrolling when I was in college and that inspired me to build some of the same projects he did and then explore from there. I upgraded to a used Dewalt 788 about 3 years ago and that upgrade made a big difference in the joy and quality of the projects I have completed. I gave the Ace saw to the pastor at my church. I hope he forgives me! Trying to get him interested in scrolling religious plaques and portraits. I attached some tree ornaments that were from a project last year. I am interested in finding out if there are other scrollers in my neighborhood? Special Interest Groups?

That is very nice cutting!

Trial an error works for me!

That is a very nice pattern Kevin.

here RAY, http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36999/ click on the picture of the kit and a description page opens

Ver nice stuff Kevin.

Mine is a type 1 also. It all depends on usage. I took mine all apart and found that all it needed was cleaning and greasing. I did find that the main drive link was coming loose though and that was causing the noise/vibration that I was looking for. But, with all that said, $250 max. for a used Dewalt in my book. There are literally thousands of them out there for sale at any given time I'll bet. R

Actually, all that c*** is interesting. I have a bunch of mop and the ones with spacers make the mop act a little differently in aggressiveness. Also, old mops leave a finer finish than new ones. Until you have tried and compared how they work I would hold off on calling them c****. The Mac mop is entirely different and much better for more delicate work. Yes, the kits have 2 packs of 48 strips and not a bad deal. I do not think it is a rip off at all. I have been using them for years and that is my experience.

Hello! My name is Florin, I am 25 years old and I am from Romania. I worked as web developer around 1.5 years and I kinda fooled myself, the pay was good but I was not happy with what I was doing, like when you wake up and you can't wait to go to work. I worked there until I said fuck this, enough! I always was a crafting guy since a little kid and I think I should focus on that, crafting something with my own hands. I discovered this scroll saw thing a few days ago and I am happy I found this forum. All I need to do now is to find an atelier with a scroll saw, I do not have 1000 euros to buy one at the moment. I think it would be perfect if I could do nice scroll saw things and sell them, we all need money for surviving Thank you for your time! Happy scroll saw-ing

I use this one as I wear glasses and they don't steam up and comfortably. Roly https://www.axminster.co.uk/trend-airace-respirator-323773

Glasses.....yes Hearing protection.....when needed and my vacuum is quiet and dust collector outside of my shop. Dust mask.....no. My scroll saw has dust collection above and below the table. I have a very good dust collection system and it minimizes dust.

I do both.....

Like the others I get my Flying Dutchman and Olson blades from Wooden Teddy Bear. Lately I have been using more and more Pegsas modified geometry blades. I get them from D&D blades online. Both places allow you to mix sizes to take advantage of by the gross pricing.

Wow, how cute are those!

They look fantastic!

Something my daughter requested. Pattern my own. Made from walnut.

If you zoom in the picture you will see on the left side of my saw how I did my blade holder.

That looks like a fun project.

Clever pattern and nice cutting. I like it.

Thanks. Yes, I make many boxes, with different designs depending on the intended purpose. For shop tool boxes, they are almost always built the same as these, but with different dimensions depending on what will go inside them, and different stains, so I can quickly find the tool that I need by box color. For the box joints, I use an Incra I-Box jig on my Unisaw, usually cutting them with a Freud SBOX8 box joint blade. These boxes were made from 1/2" Baltic Birch for the sides and 1/4" Baltic Birch for the tops and bottoms. The first two photos are a gun box that I made for my daughter-in-law. The third photo gives you a pretty good idea of how good you can make box joints using the I-Box jig and the Freud SBOX8 blade set, even in Baltic Birch plywood. Who ever said "you can't cut box joints in plywood"? I don't have any problems when doing it this way. The last photo is a box for another tool, but it's not finished inside yet, so no stain or poly on the outside either. I like using box joints for general purpose boxes and tool boxes because of their strength, I have a lot of Baltic Birch drops left over from making larger projects, so I'm using it up to make boxes. I'll be making a bunch of parts bins for staging "in process work" from 3/8 Baltic Birch this coming week. I just have to decide what the best dimensions will need to be for them, but they will all be the same size, and stackable.. Charley

Hopefully you have turned the corner towards better health. Soon we should start reading about scrolling from you, I bet you can't wait to get back to that. Prayers and thoughts on a recovery soon.

I'll be keeping you in prayer. Praying for knowledge for your doctors and a soon recovery for you.

I showed this to my brother ( also a woodworker and putz around in scroll work ) He said "hey isn't that cheating" LOL... I said depends on how you look at it.. It's nice not to have to spin the wood around.. especially something large.. but those blades like to take the path of least resistance.. and you find the soft spots in the wood real quick.. I'm not certain if it's really easier or not.. just a different method of cutting.. and I like to mix it up now and then.. helps keep my skills up..