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I am a huge fan of The Andy Griffith Show and years ago when I first started sawing I came across this pattern and I knew I had to purchase it. I have one hanging in my house and another in my shop. It is a great piece to get people’s attention. The cutting size is 8 x 11 and the finished frame measures 11 x 14. I cut it from 5/32 oak plywood and stained it golden oak and applied poly to it. I put black felt behind it to make the details pop out. The pattern was designed by Jeff Zaffino and I purchased it through Scroller LTD about 10 years ago. I cut this about 8 years ago using #2/0 reverse tooth blades in my DeWalt saw. I can’t get the hang of spiral blades.

I just finished Iggy's buffalo pattern. It is cut from a pine board because it is what I have. I used a #5 Pegas MG blade. I was pleasantly surprised how easily the Pegas blade followed lines. I had been using FD Polar blades which worked fine. Just decided to vary things. It took about three hours cutting. I have no idea how Iggy cuts so fast. I don't have a lot of time for scrolling. This past week my clock repair business was slow and gave me some extra time. My repair business is coming to an end. I started in 1976. It's been a long run but a good one. Hopefully I'll be doing more scrolling in the future.

Pattern and cutting by me.

Okay now that it was a little warmer out today and I have the EX -21 set up.. tuned the way Hotshot had mentioned to me a long while ago.. I wasn't rushed to get an order out or anything I thought I'd set at the Excalibur for the day... I'm very impressed with the ease of cutting.. fine detail work.. I was cutting out clocks trying to replenish some of my sold out inventory.. Below is a couple pictures of what I was cutting ( NOT THE ACTUAL ONE's ) today.. The ease of cutting out the detail in the grass areas that with my DW788 I always backed in and out to get nice crisp points on the grass.. The Hawk was better than the 788 but not nothing like the ease of cutting this out n the Excalibur.. Another thing.. while I have the blade tuned to go pretty much straight up and down the saw still bites into the wood very good.. unlike the Hawk was for me.. I always felt like I'm forcing the wood through the Hawk.. Not so at all with the Excalibur.. While I don't think it bites away the wood quite as fast as the 788.. with better control the speed of cutting is actually faster I believe..

Before she was born, I found these patterns on Scroller, LTD. Finally got them finished and hung. Turned out to be a little bigger than expected, so we had to do some rearranging to make everything work. Now You know it’s Clair’s room.

Now that I live with Tinnitus, hearing loss and wear hearing aids - yes - I wear hearing protection. Now that I cough whenever I breath in the least amount of sawdust - yes - I wear a dust mask. Now that my eyesight just ain't what it was - yes - I wear prescription safety glasses in the shop. Now that my bones have become stiff and creaky - yes - I keep the shop clean and organized, think through my next moves before I take them and don't take short cuts. Now that I'm able to enjoy the fruits of retirement - yes - I have a TV in the shop, bluetooth in my hearing aids - only thing I'm missing is a beer fridge ..... Jay

Got to admit that I've never been a big fan of mitred frames - but after seeing some of the pictures posted above I might have to rethink that - some really great looking work here. Having said that here area some frames that I've kinda gravitated to in my effort to avoid mitred frames. .

It appears that it was ME that split up The Beatles but i am NOT SORRY cause i will also put them back together with hot glue.

I saw on Facebook where someone had done a tree of life on a turned piece so I had to try myself. Turned a platter with African mahogany (lip is down about 1/4). I reversed and made a recess for the backer (1/8)

I received this rescue dog pattern from Iquanadon because I had mentioned that one day I was going to cut one the those animal patterns that he does so well and is so successful in selling. I mentioned that they did not appeal a whole lot to me but was glad he does so well with them and I thought perhaps I should take the time to cut one, one of these days. So he generously sent me one of his patterns to cut and this is the result. I did not put any finish on it and my wife really liked it so maybe I should cut a few of these anyway. It often is something that does not interest me a lot that seems to sell almost as soon as I post it. I need to get more out of my own comfort zone and do many other styles of things, I guess. Thanks again for the generosity shown me with this pattern. Dick heppnerguy

I hand scrap my stock and or hand plane to the finish I like prior to cutting. Very little sanding required when done cutting. I use sandpaper mainly for sharpening my tools.

Same way here. Then, after finishing, I go over the front of the piece with a piece of brown paper bag. Larry

I do it both before and after.

Several standings down to 180 or 220 grit pre cutting. Light touch up sanding with 220 or 320 after.

My avatar gives it the highest rating! Excellent work.

Both. Marg

I sand before the fragile cutting so avoid vibrating small pieces out .I will take a whole lot less sanding this way and chances of finding of vibrated pieces on the ground are Nile111111111111111

I have a nice Makita finish sander. It never gets used. I have two Porter Cable 333 random orbital sanders. They aren't made anymore but have lasted for in fact one is a spare for when the first one dies. All my projects get sanded by one. I have the sander permanently hooked up to a Shop Vac with a Dust Deputy in between.

I do not believe the dog's nose is touching. I have that pattern and have scrolled it before and if memory serves me well there is a space there. Kevin when I first started cutting patterns such as that with grass like that I too use to back out and make pointed cuts, now I can turn on a dime and you would never see that slight round edge. I defy you to see it. Just comes with years of practice and all those little tricks you pick up along the way. Always like to keep the cutting going. Looks good.

I sand before and after, also sand while cutting, if there are significant fuzzies on the back. I just keep a block sander with 150 grit at the scroll saw for this. This was recommended in Patrick Spielman's book on beginning scroll sawing, which is what I used to learn scroll sawing (no internet back then, and didn't know any local scrollers).

I plane my own lumber to dimensions I need. Most times I resaw boards to get me close and then hit the 16/32 drum sander. Now depending how much I need to sand I can start with 100 or 120 grit paper. Then finish with 180 and it is now at the dimension I need. Sometimes if I am using 3/4" stock and need to get to 5/8" I just run it through the planer a couple times and gets me closer and then to the drum sander. Now I lay out my patterns on the board utilizing the most lumber I could so I may have a couple different patterns and just work them into the board. Less waste this way. I then lay blue painters tape on entire board and glue my patterns down. I rough scroll each piece out using either bandsaw or scrollsaw. Now I then take to drill press and using a larger bit I drill most holes. If i need more detail holes I switch to a smaller bit but largest I can use without ruining the pattern lines. I always have a sacrificial board on the drill press table and constantly rotate it or move it around so that when I drill the pattern out I have a backer under it so not to pop splinters out on the back side. To me this is important to for people to look back there and not see huge blowouts. After I cut pieces I strip the blue tape and the pattern comes with it and is easy to do. Sometimes little pieces need to be taken off and I use a exacto knife for that. Now I usually take all pieces out side and I sand both front and back with a porta cable sander and 220 grit paper. After this I use my compressor to blow all the dust out and I had mentioned this before being I use red oak mainly I need to blow the dust out not only the frets but also the grain of the woods. Or else the caked up dust will be ugly when I dip in Danish oil. Here is the finish ( Porta Cable #330 palm sander or block sander as also known)sander that I have been using for many many years and own a couple. Easy to change paper because I buy pre cut paper for this sander as well as my random orbital sanders. https://www.hmres.com/site/images/articles/1d31830b-dc2c-4800-8d2f-8db4.jpeg

Good cuttings. Enjoy your EX - I've used nothing but for the last 6 years.

kevin Your are right Not having to back out as much does make it seem a little faster .I just never took the time to completley set it up until after I had the saw for a while.I guess with more cutting experiance and a tuned saw is the way to go.

Glasses - old eyes, so always Hearing protection - for most machines Dust Mask - sanding, bandsaw Gloves - NoCut armor gloves when cutting smaller parts on very large table saw, and when using bench router

Both.

Eye, dust, and hearing. Too old to loose any of what I have left and above all as JT indicated

Huh?

Got any squirrels for me.You doggy patterns were a breeze to cut good job,I blew out 2 pieces somewhere on them,no idea where.i would have done lots more but a long winded friend stopped by and you know how that goes.

Something my daughter requested. Pattern my own. Made from walnut.

Finished this for a big Bama fan. Steve Good pattern

I don't cut a lot but did this for my Sweetie. I used a #5 FD Polar. The wood is a cedar fence board. I really like the way it cut. It has no finish as it has been too cold to mess with it. I usually save that sort of thing for outside in warm weather outside. It is a Steve Good pattern.

Do you all sand your raw stock before scrolling and then sand again afterwards before applying a finish or both? Quite a few articles/books recommend sanding the stock before scrolling (80 g through 320) and don't seem to sand when the scrolling is completed but go straight to finishing? I've tried to sand stock before scrolling, but then I have to sand again when the cuts are finished - this makes no sense to me. Thoughts? Thanks in advance

OH, NOW I SEE WHY YOU ARE NOT CUTTING THE BUFFALO RIGHT NOW. Kris, this is a really nice pattern, once more. I am always excited to see your posts as they are always such fine patterns and workmanship Dick heppnerguy

very nice job

Thank you, not my pattern though.

I use glasses, ear protection either with or with out music mostly music the radio is not loud enough so bought the ear muff with radio built in Had it for 10 plus years and lost one side to age and more using mowing and sweat made the right ear phone stop working. , gloves with staining or that type of thing, dust collection improved over time. now with Jet dust collector hooked to the machine , Jet Filtration in the room on a table , and fan with filter on the floor.

Hearing protection - only when compressor is running and when using the thickness planer. Of, and when Wendy gets too chatty. Respirator - for scrolling, sanding and sometimes when on the bandsaw. Eye protection - with table saw and lathe. Gloves - when doing finishing work.

Those turned out great !

Remember when buying from Amazon. Go through Scroll Saw Village. Just another way to give the Village support. Click on the "Support SSV" button and select "Shop Amazon"

I like to make frames for the pictures I've cut. That way I can make them any size I need. I don't use glass, but I have occasionally matted them. As mentioned, there is no limit to the variety of styles and types of frames you can make. You can combine a few simple router bits to make all sorts of different profiles. I sometimes make frames out of 2 or 3 pieces of wood, glued together, which can really add depth to the frame and give you more edges to profile and create all sorts of different looks. I've used contrasting splines to add strength to the miter before. They also add an additional decorative element to the frame. Sometimes I just use a 23 ga pin nailer and shoot a pin or two in each corner. The pins are headless and the holes are so small that they are practically invisible. You can also add strength by attaching the picture & backer board directly to the frame with glue/nails. If I do this, I'll make the rabbet a little wider, to give me more area to bond to. There are all sorts of options. As shown above, you don't even have to worry about trying to make perfect miters, because there are lots of ways to join the corners that don't require miters.

Just finished cutting this Steve Good Easter Bunny. I had originally stacked 4x1/4" BB but thanks to the replies I got I split the stack to 2 each and managed to complete the cuts this morning. Cut on 1/4" BB with Pegas 3R blade interior and 5R exterior- base cut on TS Next is filing, sanding and finishing. Lots of fuzzies but I'll get to them

Everything looks straight when you move fast .......................... Speaking of how things look, all this talk about about Pegas blades made me go look at my Pegas blades because I have never gotten the impression of them being so much better than any other type of blade. Mine, bought in Ireland, are made by SCIES Minatures SA. They look identical to Pegas packaging as seen in scrolling magazines. Are all yours made in South africa?

Simple puzzles would be a good project. Maybe put their picture on a piece of 1/4" wood and have them make a puzzle out of themselves.

Well Wayne, that is cool that the names worked out that way. For the young ones I'd slow the blade down a bit at first, use 1/4" stock, and give a simple outline to follow. Once you feel they are ready have them cut the letters of their name. Then ask them to come up with some ideas. You may want to help guide their hands at first so they get use to a comfortable speed. If you still have it you may want to put the hold-down back on the saw.

wHOA THIS WILL TAKE SOME TIME

Neat! I live in Aloha OR 97003.

Superb job Kris

Great pattern great cut Kris

Neat! Roly

Very nice job.