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The round Celtic is a pattern from Bobscroll. Got the round wood from the thrift shop, it is a base for one of those cheese display things that were around a long time ago. Have no idea on the type of wood but like it. The Eagle is by Kenny Hopkins. Not sure on the wood on this one either, just a piece of live edge I had around and this pattern fit it just right. jim penquin

Here are the most recent pictures I have cut. I haven’t framed a couple of them yet. These were all stack cutted in 3’s. 1/4” Birch plywood with veneer core.

There is no way to measure that type of pressure because everyone is different. I may use my fingers more than someone who uses their arms more and so forth. Just establish what works for you and run with it. No rights and wrongs here.

I think it's because it's something that you just have to develop over time and experience. If you never get the "feel" for what you are doing, you are not cut out for working with power equipment. Nothing like experience. It's still the best teacher. A certain amount of common sense enters the picture too. Ray

Well Jes, people have come up with various ways to describe the amount of pressure they use for different tasks. The truth is, even if there were measurements, not everyone would agree that it is correct. I may push hard on the blade and someone may be using the same pressure and say they are hardly pushing on the blade. It all comes down to what you feel comfortable with. And, that may change as you get more familiar with the way you like to cut. The same goes for sanding and probably everything else. Don't get hung up on it or you'll go crazy. Just cut and enjoy. And, like the late Carter Johnson always said, "just have phun".

There was a recent thread here about blade storage. I had this setup which worked great until I out grew it. So I went with this: The little plastic test tube holder cost me $8. It will hold 60 tubes. Took me 2 minutes 26 seconds to put together. Purchased off Ebay as were the tubes... the tubes are a little over $6 for 25. All free shipping. Okay, so now I need to deal with the little drill bit srorage.

Thanks Aggie for the pattern!!

Her are some of my recent cuts. Hope y’all like them. They are modified versions of Steve Good Patterns.

Made this one for my friends new babies room. The whole room is a Jumanji theme. Made from walnut and ash. Measures 21" L by 6" W.

One thing I notice about many techniques and aspects of wood working is the amount of pressure to apply during various stages of application. Yet, I've only read maybe 1 or 2 articles that actually describe the amount of pressure to use during techniques. Here are a few examples: Scrolling - how much pressure do you apply when pushing your work piece to the blade? Hand Sanding - how much pressure do you apply when sanding a work piece? Painting - how much pressure do you apply when painting a coat on a piece, do you dab, do you stroke, do you "tickle"? I now know when scrolling to use just enough pressure until the blade starts to cut the wood - I also notice, that sometimes the blade cuts really well when a certain amount of pressure is applied and not very well when less pressure is applied. Thoughts? Thanks in advance

My wife and I are impatiently waiting for our little feathered friends to arrive. This is a Steve good pattern that I made several changes on.

I have a Porter Cable 330............love it except it is really dusty. I use it with 220.

One thing I do know is that you should not cut when you are in a hurry, because you put excess pressure on the blade and snap it. I learnt that one a couple of times. Marg

All of the hardwoods you mentioned are good for scrolling. Each have there own characteristics that may or may not bother you. I absolutely love Mahogany. It is my favorite hard wood to work with. It cuts and finishes beautifully. Alder is a nice wood to work with. It is a little softer, so it may be a little fragile for very fine fret work, but I use it a lot. I also use a lot of red oak. It finish nicely, but is harder than the other woods, and can burn if you are nor carful. I am no a big fan of Poplar as it does not finish well for me. I do not use stains or paint (except for backer boards). To bring out the natural color and grain of hardwoods, I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. So I only use hardwoods. dont be afraid to experiment with hardwoods. You do have to be a little bit moe careful with hardwoods than plywood as small cuts can break easier, but it is well worth using!

I just got my order from Ocooch Hardwoods.Along with the order came a 20# box of assorted hardwoods The box was 20.00 + shipping.I thought there were some really nice pieces of scroll wood .If you want a try different hardwoods Ithink this is a good way to start

In my opinion none of the above in plywood form. The plywood is going to have an inner core that is junk and the outer core may have footballs for patches and if not very thin layer. If working with any type hard woods for scrolling I prefer hard wood boards. More expensive but truer woods to work with. Again my opinion. I have scrolled oak plywood but have gotten splintering from it when small detail was cut. Never do that again. I doubt serious that was honduras mahogany because it has become almost untouchable. I may have misread your posting. If the woods you stated at the beginning are true hardwoods then by all means everyone is good scrolling wood. I still question the Honduran mahogany because the cost is outrageous and lowes is not going to supply that when my hardwood lumber company does not even bring it in because of cost. I use mainly red oak but also all the others mentioned and plenty more.

Perhaps I should have asked which are the most undesirable for scrolling?

Wonderful work. I think our little buddies will be here in SC in about a month. Can't wait!

As far as pressure when cutting, ya just have to try different things and see what works best for you. But generally you only want to push hard enough to keep the wood moving through the blade. Don't force it or you can bend the blade and/or your cuts won't be square. For me, sanding depends on what I'm doing. Finish sanding is pretty light, but if I'm removing a pattern, it can get fairly aggressive. However, you have to be careful when sanding thing plywood. Don't want to sand through the top layer. Painting??? Almost every project I do gets spray finish or oil finish. If it has a backer, it's also spray painted.

There's a new girl at the doctor's office and the secretary asked me if I would make her name .Well, this girl was so enthusiast about it and every word I said made me go the extra mile for her.I like attention!!!!!!The sweetpea is for the fish lady at the grocery store,Her little shih tzu doggy.Sorry for so many repeat pictures i could'nt find a good one.

The yoga girls wanted the namaste names , I made 4 different ones but the only sent me 2 pictures as I forgot to take the picture myself.

I have been trying to build some inventory for my next craft fair but seem to be selling it almost as fast as I can make it. Nice problem to have I suppose but still inconvenient! First off this pair of hearts cut from a rimu drawer box Then these horses from a Charles Dearing pattern. I started this one months ago but couldn't get around to finishing it. Once I got my new Hegner, I decided I had to finish it: I have cut this Beatles plaque before but this time enlarged it to 150% Then some more NZ hearts: and finally a Harry Potter wand turned from a length of old handrail. Not sure what the timber is but it is lovely. Thanks for looking, Rob

Stopped in Lowes today picking up a board. While perusing I saw Honduras, Alder, Red Oak and Poplar. I've cut poplar but not the others. Which are good for scrolling? I also saw Maple and Oak 1/4" plywood. The stuff looked very nice. If I remember correctly the Maple was $59 for a 4X8 sheet. Pricey for sure.

Looks great thanks for sharing

Nice work thanks for sharing

Thanks to all of you for your replies. The ROS that I have is a single speed from H/F. I think after reading all of your replies that I will end up buying a better ROS sander. I used to have a Makita palm sander and a Dewalt ROS with dust collection but they unfortunately got sold when we went out on the road. I will start shopping the used market first. Thanks again. Ray

I have a cheap palm sander.. it's a off brand odd ball sized thing that I bought for $10 at some bargain store.. years ago when i first started.. I figured I'd get the moneys worth out of the sand paper if they thing quit working.. so long story short I used it forever.. well until all the sand paper got used up and I couldn't find anywhere to get ( hook and loop ) the odd sized sand paper.. I tried cutting my own but that posed a mess and the cutting did something to the pads and ended up making the sanded surface scratched up.. Still have the sander.. but any how.. I bought a cheap ROS.. loved it.. used it until the motor smoked on it.. bought another cheap one that I hated.. it sets under the workbench only used a couple times.. I need to dig it out and sell it or donate it to someplace. I finally did some research and bought a high end ROS that has a dust collection that was a hard case plastic.. ( one complaint about the cheap ones I had was the bag getting torn and exhausting the fine dust throughout the shop.. Really liked the DeWalt VS one.. but a bag rather than the plastic dust collection. I ended up with a Bosh VS model.. Love the VS as I can slow it down to a crawl for delicate work.. Only sander I use and will never buy one with the dust bag.. as the bags never hold up.. Great if you hook it up to a DC.. My shop isn't that advanced to have DC hooked up to everything yet.. just the big mess machines ( planer and bandsaw.. ) .. If my ROS died today.. I like this thing well enough.. I'd be buying another just like it.. as for the palm sander.. I suppose it would matter a great deal on what you make.. but after having the ROS I just don't personally have the need for the palm sander like I originally thought I would.. the one I use to use was used mainly for doing work that the ROS was probably a better fit for anyway.. Sure got my $10 out of it though.. it came with a 6-8 inch stack of sanding papers, LOL..

Very nicely done, thanks for sharing. edward

Good looking cuttings... Thanks for showing them.

Birch plywood, 12 x 8 inches (recommended pattern size 15 x 11 inches) pattern by Alex Fox Here is video of cutting and final result

Years ago I bought my tubes and storage tray thing from maybe Rockler? It was for blade storage and the plastic tray is made to elevate each row.. ( kind of like stadium seating ) .. I can't remember now but seems like it holds 16 tubes.. Though not nearly as cheap as you all are making them for.. Believe I paid like $24 for it.. Though I really like it.. My biggest complaint is.. I buy too many different style blades and don't seem to have enough spots in the holder.

I only use ROS sanders. I like the Rigid variable speed ones.

More great work. keep um comin' Roly

Acacia, Wenge, Sapelle framed with balsa

very nice group of well scrolled and finished items. Thanks for posting Dick heppnerguy

My favorite is the car/city scene.. I think that I is really cool\ Dick heppnerguy

Excellent work. My favorite is the red one, the lovers. Marg

You have some awesome cut there. I especially like the one that you got from the scroller, the back lit car. Excellent work. Marg

It's all perty much been dumped in your lap. I think I would add a couple things to it, though. Dan & Cowpoke said it best! You have to figure out what works for you. Depending on the thickness of the material you're cuttin', the blade you choose to use, blade speed, & how well you're lookin' after your saw deck, all play into pressure. Learn to listen to your blade. Every blade has it's own voice. If you try to put to much down pressure on the project, relax a little bit, let the blade do the work. And Speed creates heat. Learn to cut at a speed you're comfortable at, & progress. Sanding? I do all my sandin' before I even consider puttin' a pattern on. Depending on the size of the project, I run it thru the drum sander, both sides, a couple times, then use a palm sander & sand it down to 220. The reason I use a palm sander is bcause there won't be any circle marks from a ros sander. Pressure on the sander is just enough to control it. There ain't any need to work yourself to death sandin'. Let it do the work for ya. Same if ya start with a belt sander, or use a ros. The more pressure ya put on it, the more wood the sander is goin' to eat, in turn, more marks to deal with. Common sense kinda kicks in for most folks. I use a craft knife to clean the entire pattern off the the finished product. Then lightly go over it with a palm sander & 220 grit paper. Then do the back side, too. Hopefully I didn't over step my bounds. This is most of what I do. jm .02 pennies worth.

The most important factor is knowing why the wood warps. As mentioned above wood moves with uneven moisture absorption. You set a thin board flat on your workbench, it most certainly will warp or cup because the top will absorb moisture and the bottom won't. If you plane the wood yourself, you need to take off the same amount off each side, or the wood will warp. When you get your nice wood in the mail, let it sit in the package for a few days. Then unwrap your wood and stack with "stickers" in between each layer to allow even air circulation around all the boards. Or you can lean the boards up against a wall at an angle for even air circulation.

Very nice work. Thanks for sharing it. jim penquin

They all look super, got some great work there. jim penquin

Those are some great projects. Love the lighted ones.

Great assortment of projects, all very well done. Jeff

Great looking projects! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

That would be my library.

That must be kinda uncomfortable

Great collection of work, really well cut and framed. Rob

Very nicely done and thanks for posting a picture of one of mine looks great with the red backer

Thanks Marg They are only small about 12cm or 4 inches approx but they sell well. Nice souvenirs from native timber. Rob