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Since I'm new I thought I'd show my favorite two pieces. Both were gifts for my pastor. Jesus is done on 100 year old barn wood. Peace is maple on mahogany. Not sure of the origin of the Jesus portrait pattern. I found it on Pinterest. Peace I bought from Sue Mey.

So, I've been in and out of the shop all week with various tasks. First I made a humongous down draft table (pallet wood so no cost). Then I realized I had no place to put it. So I cut it in half LOL. I already had the handle, the pvc for the dust connector and the peg board I removed when I put up my French cleat system. Then I made a drip box, attached it to one of my workbenches, and finally got to add legs from the Rockler brackets I ordered Also, learned a valuable lesson about cutting letters - Which you can read in my blog if you're interested. I finished a bunch of cuts, the wife painted a bunch and I started spray lacquer on them Also cut up a bunch of patterns, and set up for the weeks cutting (this is 1 of 8 panels prepared) Lots to do next week... hopefully Oh, and we finished our taxes as well LOL!

Just a couple of pictures of a pool table type clock I made about 10 years ago.. just ran across some old pictures and thought I'd share this one..

Haven't showed much lately so I figured I'd upload a few pics. Wood Spirit by Steve Good from some scrap mahogany, Spoiled Cat by Steve Good from some scrap pine, Leopard from who knows where I got the pattern out of some scrap poplar and finally a JGR intarsia eagle out of aspen, basswood, red oak and walnut.

After I cut this pattern, I started to wonder what it would look like if I "Freed" the pattern from the outside coin. I don't know if it is better or not, but I like it. I pictured the before and after. (I tried a marathon session to try to finish most of this in one session, so the cutting started getting a little sloppy as I fatigued and started to hurt. If I ever do it again, I'll cut it over days instead of hours. There are 62 cuts in the initial design and cut on an Eisenhower. This is somewhat of an optical illusion, your eye might immediately see flowers inside of circles, but if you looks closely, the whole pattern is just interwoven circles.

Two for the wife and one for me. Not the Onder leopard that she wanted but he no longer had it and I could not make the pic I had work. Managed to make this one work and of course she painted it. Paul (Scrappile) posted his cutting of Burrowing Owls, pattern by Charles Hand, and I foolishly showed it to the wife. Guess what, and here is my cutting. Jan will paint one when she takes a break from quilting. The Native American was posted by Janavski last week and I had to cut, still figuring out correct size for his Queen pattern. Jeff

I've enjoyed making several variations on this for friends. First one is on oak pallet wood. The second is pallet wood also but I'm not sure what kind. The third is heart pine from my wife's great grandfathers barn. I got the birds from a clip art pic and the words are Daydreamer font from Microsoft word.

I had my car worked on by a guy from where I work, it's his hobby/after work job and he's pretty good at it and cheaper then a normal garage. So I made him this as a thank you tip, Found it on pinterest so the pattern maker is unknown. (Werkstatt = workshop).

I recently built a set shelves for my great nephew Emmett (now 6 months old). The first step was to cut out his name and a number of advisory words in two different quarter-sawn white oak boards: After completing the scrolling, I glued a thin backing to the boards. Next, baking clay (Mostly FIMO, but also some Sculpey) was packed into the letters: Packing takes more time than one would expect –close to two hours for the six words on the top board. The clay was baked at 265 degrees Fahrenheit for 25 minutes: Steve Good has an excellent video on Scrollsaw Workshop demonstrating how to do all this. After cooling, the excess clay was sanded off carefully with frequent cleaning of the sandpaper using a crepe rubber block: The frame and the shelves are constructed of quarter-sawn white oak re-sawn down to a finished thickness of 12 millimetres. I had prepared the wood a couple of months ago and it was good and straight. But, I underestimated and needed one more piece which I fashioned from a not-so-good piece of scrap. I should not have done this and regretted having done so in all subsequent steps of the project. For starters I needed to weigh down the board with a heavy vise/anvil when cutting dados into it: Then, all glue-ups required more clamps than they normally have done. In the end the shelves are mostly OK. A piece of 6mm thick white oak plywood was nailed to the back of the unit. I found my Seyco scrolling drill came in very handy for pre-drilling before hammering in the nails. As with the rest of the unit, the two “worded pieces were first glued into place then the joints were strengthened with the use of stepped dowels (Miller). There are no screws at all in the shelf unit. Finally, several coats of polymerized Tung oil were applied. In the photo below the first coat, that is Tung oil sealer, is being applied. Here is photo of the completed unit:

I've been here a few weeks, have asked more than my share of questions and you all have been not only patient, but accepting, welcoming and helpful in your responses. I just want to say thank you to you all for everything. You are a great bunch of people, and this community is one of the best I've found on the internet! Ok, back to our regularly scheduled program....

I agree and also would like to thank everyone for partaking on this site.. whether you are asking questions or answering them.. without the constant questions and answers etc going on here the site would be quite boring.. So with that said.. if you have questions.. ask away as many as needed / liked.. as it's interesting to me to read all of the responses.. you learn that there are many ways to accomplish basically the same final out come of a project.. many times that leads one to "try" a different method of doing things.. or.. at least teaches us all that our way of doing things isn't always the only way..

Greetings scrollers! ......is that correct....scrollers? Justdraftn. Front range of the Colorado Rockies. I have at least.....maybe 6hrs of experience w/a scroll saw under my belt. It WAS a Wen 3920. It only took me that long to realize that if I was going to do this, I had to have a real saw. It was sent back. Delta 40-694 will be arriving Wed. Much better reviews here and else where. So.....why scrolling? I'm a band saw guy. I make band saw boxes. Current works. My lastest projects are puzzle boxes. Inside the puzzle boxes are very intricate hidden drawers. These come down to some pretty delicate work. Even the 1/8" blade on my band saw is too big..... so....me thinks scroll saw. The 2" cutting depth on a scroll saw should be big enough for this work. I can just make the hidden drawers to fit the work on the scroll saw. Off to the library....remember libraries?.......for books on scrolling. Found plenty. So new ideas for adding some pizzazz to my boxes. Cut out the scroll pieces and attach them to the boxes. It will also make creating handles for the box drawers much easier. With the band saw I have the capability to size wood to anything I need. Can not wait to get into some of the projects I found in the books. Me...... Grew up 3rd hand helper to a carpenter /cabinet maker. Appreciate fine tools and what can be done w/them. Quit college to go look for adventure in Alaska. Found it. Worked construction for 11yrs before stumbling back into school. Came out w/a degree in computer electronics.....actually solid state physics. Provided me w/a 35yr career in IT support of all kinds. Semi-retired in April last year. 4 1/2 day weekend every week. I have a basement shop where all the fine work gets done. If I'm not in my shop you will find me in my garden or out on my bike. Skinny tire. Fast and far. Looking around the site, have found plenty already to stimulate the gray cells. Thoughts/comments/suggestions welcome.

As many have stated and heard, Pegas blades are amazing and I finally got around to really trying them. Up until now I've been using Olson Mach Speed #3 for cutting my puzzles from 3/4" poplar. The #3 Pegas Modified Geometry was noticeably thinner and that's why I held off on trying them. I was worried about blade "flex" which happens when using thin blades in thick/hard wood causing the puzzle pieces to not slide in and out from both directions. Last week I tried the #5 Pegas MG blade and it cut very smooth and I liked it, but the puzzle pieces were slightly looser than I like so I went back to the Olson Mach Speed #3. Today however I felt adventurous and gave the Pegas MG #3 a shot and am happy to report that I had no issues and the Pegas blades slice through poplar like butter. I'm beginning to think the Pegas blades may in fact save wear and tear on my saw in that they cut so smooth and so aggressively I'm not putting any added pressure on the piece as I'm feeding it. Who knows, I may get more than 1 year from a DeWalt now. ;-) For any of my puzzle zombie followers out there, give the Pegas blades a shot, #3 and #5 to see which one you prefer. Oh, and the Pegas blades cut amazingly "straight"... I'm having to relearn how to cut I'm so used to cutting at an "angle" for a straight line. Break time over, back to cutting. Iggy

When I got my King, and got all setup at the shop, clamped down, blades layer out, 6+ reading glasses balanced on my nose . . . . when I went to tension the blade, I knew by feel, the tension was way too high, and pop, blade broke before tension was near full. The normal way of loading and tensioning the blades was never going to work. The shorter arm on the 16" makes a lot of difference in leverage. So, my Jeweler friends have woken up to the fact that a scroll saw can possibly replace their Jewelers saws, and a lot of them are looking for a saw, and I've been recommending the 16" which fits their project types perfectly (and is cheaper). So of course, we don't want folks messing with that back knob, but the answer was pretty simple, but hard to explain so I did a video. I which I had a "Presenters" type voice, but unfortunately, all I have in mine. Anyway, here is the short video demonstration geared to my Jeweler friends: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpvnN9bXw58

I'll keep you in my prayers.

wishing you good health.

Thanks for the comps. Didn't realize the e had broken in the spoiled cat until I posted. Must of happened when gluing up to the backer board. Will attempt to replace that micro cut. E's always have been a pain in word art for me.

Another great nephew has arrived, so I made another set of shelves:

I like both the drip table and the downdraft table. I wish I had the floor space to use, but everything I use has to be moveable. Are you using the drip table just to dry things or are you doing the painting as well Bob

I do not use poly either. I use spray can semi gloss lacquer. Depending on humidity, I can get two or three light coats in about an hour. I don't sand between coats as the wet lacquer will adhere to the previous coat. Once dry, if there are any dust nibs, I rub them out with a flat piece of brown paper bag. It's like using 5000 grit sand paper without scratching the finsh.

The round Celtic is a pattern from Bobscroll. Got the round wood from the thrift shop, it is a base for one of those cheese display things that were around a long time ago. Have no idea on the type of wood but like it. The Eagle is by Kenny Hopkins. Not sure on the wood on this one either, just a piece of live edge I had around and this pattern fit it just right. jim penquin

Great cutting. Beautiful.

To be frank, I've never read any good reviews of Minwax Spar varnish. It is almost universally scorned on other woodworking forums I've participated in. Good quality, commercial grade spar varnish is very expensive and usually only available from marine supply stores. One suggestion that has had a lot of interest over the years, is clear paint base. I've personally never tried it, so I can't vouch for it's performance, but I've read a number of testimonials about it. Below is a cut & paste of a portion of the first internet posting that I recall ever reading about it; There were several things I knew about paint: Exterior paints contain a mildewcide and a fungicide that a (marine) varnish does not. The best quality paints will contain a UV (inhibitor) and trans-oxide pigments in very high percentages. Almost all paint is custom mixed by the store. The retailer maintains a large supply of base products that are used to achieve the desired color. There are generally four base products and the specific one for your paint is determined by your color choice. These base products are either named or numbered. They are named pastel, deep, tint and neutral. If numbered it is cleverly 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the exception of Olympic who numbers 1, 2, 3 and 5. Olympic is unaware that “4” comes before “5”. Pastel and/or 1 is virtually a pure white and used for the lightest of colors. The others are slightly color altered from white and more translucent than pastel. These are used for succeeding deeper colors. All of this comes to neutral, 4 and/or 5. These are clear and used for (mixing) the darkest colors. In the can they are somewhat opaque but dry more or less clear.

Scott, I have used nothing but Flying Dutchman FDUR blades for most of time i have been in this hobby and still use them .....but on a whim, after reading what several of the Village people have said about them, I got a gross of the mg#3 and #5........I must say i find myself reaching for them a lot !.....I may have a new go to blade soon...works for me !

Great job on both. Jeff

Excellently done Charlie. They came out great. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

They both look beautiful! Great wood too! Bob

Those are some very fine cuttings.

More great work Charlie and I am sure your pastor was pleased to receive them. Thanks for sharing.

Hope it works out favorably!

hope you feel better

This is only a problem with jewelers blades. The slight bend shown in the video doesn’t hurt the blade.

Her are some of my recent cuts. Hope y’all like them. They are modified versions of Steve Good Patterns.

Very fine work !

I like that setup , Nice !

I am sure he will be very happy to receive it. Great work Terry. Marg

Great ideas Jess. Thanks for sharing them. Some great looking projects there, I can smell the sawdust from here. Marg

I can't say as I've ever experienced swirl marks from a palm sander. Nor have I used a mouse sander. I have read some about them.

I used a Flying Dutchman UR #3 on the birds and a FD NS#1 on the words.

I also use spray can lacquer.

Hi Bob, My shop is similar - everything needs to be on wheels, attached to something else or hung on the wall! I have a few tool carts I made that are multi-purposed - drill/bench sander, bandsaw/grinder etc. 3 of my workbenches are also on wheels I have a separate bench for painting, but I do use it for can spraying, spray lacquering, brush finishes etc. as well.

I have had my Makita for 30 + years and it still works great.

First off... Welcome to the Village Charlie! I never caught any of your previous posts. Next, great job on the signs. All of them look good.

Good think I saved that outer ring :-)

Nice thing for your friend. I'm sure he will love and appreciate it.

I like these they are good. Roly

You did a really nice job on them Charlie! Thank you for showing us, Bob

Well, I am not going to lose the box. I may end up going back to it. I got that box from Harbor Freight when i purchased a cheap set of carving tools. Never could make the carving tools carve anything nice, (must have been something wrong with them), but I have gotten quite a bit of use out of the box.

Nice I have seen this pattern somewhere also probably on pinterest like yourself he will like the subject matter for sure both the vehicle side and mechanic

I've heard of them but not tried them. When I first started scrolling, I use some from "Timberline". Ever hear of them? I don't remember how they worked.