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I had a new neighbor come over to the house and she saw my intarsia eagle hanging on our wall and immediately wanted to know if I sold these? I told her I did and then I told her I sell it for $200, but because I would not have to mail it, I would sell it to her for $175. She immediately said, "Can I pay you now?" I never take pay for something until it is finished and it is something they still want when they see the finished piece. Today she came by and picked up the Eagle and was very enthusiastic about it. I was delighted that she felt that way and she went off a happy camper. This is a JGR pattern, as most of you already know. It is made from Cedar, Yellow Heart and Aspen Dick heppnerguy

U made a couple of these 'Angel with Dove" pieces from a Sue Mey pattern. I make these fairly often and send them to friends who have come down ill and I am in hopes that this little wall plaque might help them know that my wife and I are thinking about them and hopefully when they look at this little angel they might find a little comfort from it. It is not a lot to brag about but I just wanted all of you to know I am still working in my shop some. Dick heppnerguy

A friend cuts this out of metal, another friend powder coats it And I do the back drop.

I have cut this pattern just a few times in the past, but I wanted to post here because this is probably the best I've ever cut it. This is one of those patterns that gives me opportunity to improve myself with every cutting. I don't cut it often because it doesn't sell well . . . . because I have it priced way too high . . . because it is a pain in the backside to cut. (Cross Posted to SSWC) In case some of you wonder how I can cut that small, especially since my eyesight is not the best . . . I am of the belief that most of the veteran cutters on this forum are better cutters than I am, but I cheat by using 4+ reading glasses plus a magnifiying lamp along with plenty of light. Here is what it actually looks like under heavy magnification. The trick is not cutting small because in metal that is easy. The trick is clearly seeing the pattern. Of course seeing it clearly, sometimes means printing it on quality paper, not cheap copy paper. (CA glue seeps through some paper, making it fuzzy/muddled)

One of my new neighbors asked if I would like to donate a piece of my woodworking to her Church fund raiser and of course I said that I would be delighted to do so. This is the first on several that I am donating. I am keeping it simple so that I will be able to give her several pieces. She was looking for a cross to start with so this is the one I decided on Dick heppnerguy

Just finished cutting this for my Dentist. It's made from 4mm Baltic Birch Ply and finished with 2 coats of sanding sealer and one coat of lacquer. This is the second one of these I have cut, the first was a few years ago and was for my Dad's Dentist. Many thanks to Grampa for the great pattern.

Peeps are to eat. Those have extra fiber.

Our first framed item - used a $1 frame we got yesterday: Eh, at least we got one done - it's not great but it's a beginning

My students made lamps earlier this year. For the shade part I bought a plastic ceiling panel. The kind used over a light in a drop ceiling. It was on clearance because it had cracked corners, but worked for the project because we were cutting it up.

Not sure where she came from she’s cut out of 1/4” birch ply it’s aprox 8x10 and cut with #1and#2 spirals

This weekend was full of honey-doos, most of which involved sitting around my wife's recently-deceased aunt's house waiting for people to show up to buy furniture, then helping dismantle said furniture and try to maneuver it out of doorways that were not designed to have anything bigger than a doll's furniture pass through them. I swear we violated several laws of physics trying to get the sofa out, so my sincerest apologies if I inadvertently unleashed any Elder Beings upon this earth. Unless they hit DC first. Still, between that, cleaning up branches from a downed tree in the back yard, and various other chores, I managed to get in a couple of hours' worth of turning lumber into sawdust. Decided to do a quick Steve Good pattern (www.scrollsawworkship.blogspot.com), and used BLO for the first time (man...they're SERIOUS about keeping those cans closed in the stores! Had to break out some adjustable pliers to get the thing off the first time). Not the most intricate pattern, but one that I can sit back and smile and be glad I did. Its only been drying about an hour, so still have 23 to go before I can call it done, but I'm pleasantly happy with how its turning out. Subtle, enhancing the colors of the wood, instead of staining them a completely different shade. If all goes well, I may have found my new go-to finish.

Cut in ply using #3 Pegas , framed from reclaimed shelving, pattern by me, nice to make some dust for a change been practising my patterns and been stuck outside making planter orders and bench orders for a while.

Just a little trivet I made up the pattern came out of adult colouring book it’s 9” round and on 1/4 “ birch plyw

Thanks to @Travis posting his "peeps" pattern, the wife just had to cut a couple. Here are her "peeps' - she's very proud of them No idea what she's going to do with them though

Travis, you work on coming up with new ideas and ways to keep things most interesting here in The Village, so I am not going to pass up the opportunity to enter the piece I made for my wife as an Easter piece. I posted it when I finished it but this is my entry in support of your fun efforts for us. We should support the things you are doing for us. That being said, my thank you is my entry. Dick heppnerguy

From the photo you see on the top of each package of blades there is alot of info, you see a universal number. That is the number size of the blade and being universal all companies use that to size their blades so that you talk apples to apples. No. 5RG means #5 reverse grind(ground) This means there are teeth facing both up and down. On these blades they are double reverse so that means there is 2 teeth close to each other (can be up or down) and then a space is skipped (this is done to help clear saw dust from the blade) The reverse teeth are to help with fuzzies on the bottom side of your project. Without them the saw teeth saw in one direction, down and not up too. You do not need many because all you are trying to do is cut away the fuzzies and not cut wood. The numbers you gave and are written on the side of the package are the number of teeth per inch. In your example 9 teeth per inch facing down and 6 teeth per inch facing up. They are also a precision grind blade which means they are sharpened differently than a stamped blade which most blades are. These blades should be sharper than standard blades because the way they are sharpened. They should also last longer than stamped blades. They usually cost more as well. You will also notice with these type blades if you look close the drift on the blade is very very slight if at all. When a blade is stamped from steel rolls it will have teeth that are facing a certain way (usually to the right when looking at the blade) This will cause drift and thus when you cut using those blade you are never able to cut with the piece of wood 90 degrees to the blade. It is always slanted away from the blade somewhat. This is why people use that edge to either cut to the right or to the left. They use the drift to their advantage. Many people may not realize that is what they are doing but it is true. Also people will use the sharp edges of the stamped blades as a plane if they need to knock off a sliver or so. Tough to do from both sides of the blade but one side is always better to use. With Precision ground blades it does not matter because there is no one side better than the other. Probably is somewhat confusing but the more you scroll the more tips you will pick up As Far as best blades. That is a subjective answer. I prefer Flying Dutchman. There there is all sorts of styles and sizes. And then someone threw a monkey wrench in things and made spiral blades and that is a story for another time. But again even with those there are styles and sizes to choose from. There are plenty of charts and videos on the net that can guide you some. But all they are is guides. You need to first hand do the cutting and the more you cut the more your eye and hands start working together and the mind is learning what works well for YOU. Welcome to the world of scrolling and ask all the questions you want. I hope in some small way I cleared up the blade thing but there is alot of info there so it may not sink in all at once. Good luck and look forward to seeing what you got.

Was a fun little project I made for a friend that has a collection of beetles. Cut with #3 Pegas MG blade cut from maple.

Sometimes a subject requires a long explanation.

I figgure out how to make my post as short as posible. I do not have enough time to read long post. I am 78 and life is too short for long posts. UKE

I dip (the entire puzzle) in mineral oil and then let soak in on a rack. I get about 400 puzzles per gallon of mineral oil so the cost per puzzle is minimal ($22 per gallon)

Has to be a female pigeon! Males would never look at a map, LOL

I made these lamps a while back and, like you, I was perplexed as to how to dim the lighting. i initially started with an amber Plexiglas but the bulb (LED) was still too stark and decided to try some parchment paper. I used contact cement to adhere it to the outer inside edges of the Plexiglas. It worked out well and they sit in our sunroom and foyer now.

She did a good job and who cares what she does with them, she is proud of them. Marg

Thanks for the welcome I didn't say I was a snow lover, lol ,I guess I was born in the wrong country.

Hello everyone, I found this site through a search at google and am wondering if you guys could give me a bit of advice concerning the size of a scroll saw to buy? What percentage of your work requires a 20 inch or larger scroll saw compared to a 16 inch saw. I am semi-retired and have worked with wood most of my life, and am in the market for a new scroll saw as this is the one tool I have never owned. I am weighing the pros and cons of a 16 inch compared to a 20 or even a 30 inch saw. Thank you much.......Charlie

First steps are always a cause for celebration. Well done! Bruce

Everything begins with the first step and you took it, look forward to seeing more of your work. Good looking piece. jim

I'm with you Ike, I don't read long posts either!

If it was me it would simply say LOST I do not think so i just want to take the scenic route

That's one nice fund raiser piece you have there. They should do good with that one. I wouldn't be surprised if you got more orders for that after they all see it.

Beautiful Dick. I always wanted to try doing something like that but haven't gotten up the nerve yet. Are those pieces glues onto a backer board.

Inspiring piece of art! And yes, scroll saw work is an art....anyone who thinks otherwise should look at the work displayed on this forum!

Superb work there, excellent cutting too.

I agree with Dan IKE

great job, congratulations on the sale

On my tablet if I type in the response window and leave it without posting it saves what I wrote. The next time I click in any response window the text that I typed earlier reappears. I think that's a feature on this site for mobile devices.

LOL Nice one thanks for sharing

Great fund raiser piece that is it will raise a good sum I am quessing

Quality piece no wonder she was happy

New, I found an easier alternative to home-made strips with Popsicle sticks. Next time you're in Walmart or Target, swing by the makeup section. I picked up a bag of 15-20 nail files for $2. They have two different grits, one on each side of each board. The boards are cardboard-ish, so they're not going to stand up to a lot of pressure, but they're good enough to take the fuzz off the bottom of a project. And at $2-for-20, if one breaks, they're cheap enough that my frugal butt isn't worried about tossing them.

Absolutely love the Hendrix portrait and backer. Unique idea. Well done. Marg

Nice work, Dick, and, again, great sentiment. Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Very nicely done Dick. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Congrats............That's a beauty.

Ah ha, you caught that . . . . Yes it is touching, but I hid the support by cutting away the surface material by angling the coin up. I do that from both sizes. This makes it look like the horse is floating with no support. Here is a close up of that strategy from another coin I cut:

Thats a great idea Dick..they would have their own angel with them..you would be in their thoughts also. I sometimes make a praying hands portrait,and add their name in it.I have also made this for several wakes of friends and family who have passed.The family love it as a keep sake.

Kevin that is a natural occurrence I am guessing. I was an electrician in the trades for 43 years and over that time I have done just about every type of electrical work you can think of. I prided myself on being able to bend pipe with the best of the best. I loved it because it was something that you could look at when done and actually see. many times we pull wire in a pipe or hook up panels and control boards and when the cover is placed on you do not see the end results any more. Now the next electrician in there will get to see and I always did judge others work when I had to enter panels. I was meticulous about bending and shaping wires in panels and boxes. That is why today when I go into these stores such as Home Depot and others where there is no ceiling and all pipe work is exposed I am forever checking out bends and layouts of pipe runs. In my mind I work out things that I would have done differently. pretty much was able to get on a job and see ahead of time what needed to be done and how. Many times though I wound up being the foreman on the job and I did not get to do the fun stuff. Same is scrolling, I find myself looking for the details in a project and seeing how people handle them I know everyone is different and skill levels are different but it is inbred in me I guess. This is the reason for the challenge in that I would like to see the side by side cuttings of both blades. and see is it possible to use either or. If I put lots of effort in using spirals I probably could get the hang of it but they are a different breed for sure.

Most blade manufactures offer sample packs where they will have 6 blades of each size in that particular style.. As for what blade works best is very dependent on what type of scroll sawing and material you'll be using.. My go to blades are.. Pegas MG #3 and #5 or I also like flying Dutchman blades.. and that would be Ultra reverse #3 and #5. but I also like the Scroll reverse and the spiral blades.. with spirals I've never used anything more than a #1 usually use a 0/1

I hope this isn't cheating - my pictures aren't exactly what you asked for ..... I've made this clock 3 times - one with straight blades - 2 with spiral blades - I will leave it up to others to guess which is which (hope the dates don't show up in the properties of the pictures .....) - but I am guessing that it will be difficult if not impossible to tell - both clocks include tons of fretwork, some sweeping curves, some straight lines - all of which were done by either the straight or spiral blade that was used throughout the particular project. In the straight blade project I should tell you that my 16" saw was not quite sufficient to use the straight blade throughout so this particular project actually became my first introduction to the spiral blade so I could finish it ..... I will be happy to show a few more detailed pictures of the finished spiral blade project - and the results you can get with a spiral blade. Thanks! Jay

A long time ago I read an article about this. If this old mind is working correctly the definition was pretty simple. If you going to instarsia or segmentation a 16 inch is preferred as most pieces are smaller in size. If you going to do strictly fret work then the larger the better ex 30" table saw. If you plan on doing multiple styles a 20 or 21 " is preferable giving you the flexibility you will need. I started on a 16" and now run a 21" and never missed the smaller saw. SO getting into this hobby try and decide what most interests you and look in that size range. There is also the option to use spiral blades for "large" projects.