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3days cutting but it’s done hope everyone likes it it’s not overly challenging but time consuming main ingredient is patients. Size is 15x21 on Baltic birch 1/4” ply

You know how when you....well, maybe not you.....but me for sure....get that itch for a new toy........you.....well, maybe not you...but me for sure.....you get the new toy before you know where you're going keep it. When I stumbled onto the idea of getting a scroll saw to use for the really fine work on my band saw boxes, I, of course, had to scratch that itch. At just about that time, I had purchased the materials to build a new cabinet for the planer. As I suddenly had a second toy for my tiny shop...what to do? Remembered seeing some fliptop cabinets on Pintrest. It did not take much time to find the one I wanted. Got it up and running this afternoon. Still needs drawers. Not sure I'm satisfied w/the knobs. ....so, far, very satisfied w/the effort.

Here is another piece for Easter, Steve Good pattern

Here's my offering. I adapted the pattern from a wood carving pattern in wood carving Illustrated. The white and brown are craft paint, the other colors are a sharpie. Chris

This is a pattern from a book by Patrick Spielman. 1/2” Walnut. Any ideas for a color background so you can see it better?

My new pattern of fretwork bowl (availabe at http://alexscrollsaw.wixsite.com/scrollsawpatterns) Birch plywood, 1/4 inch, flat blades #3 LuxTools (Germany) Video of making it:

I got this pattern from 300 Christian & Inspirational Patterns for Scroll Saw Woodworking Page 83- it is the 2nd finished/framed work. The panel is done with Minwax Pre-stain and Red Oak 215 (a new stain we're trying - I like it is as well ) on 1/4" BB ply - the frame I've already posted on - one of mine made with the miter jig Thanks for looking - More to come

Had a request for a name plaque for a little one near me so came up with this as his garden backs onto a railway line cut in oak using #7 Pegas modified

...and debated what to do with them. frames- i complicate them. but decided to try something a little different this time. now im wondering if i should have put them side by side. ive got 2 more waiting for frames, so maybe ill try that with those. or not.

Decided to go ahead and do this Haida style Swan that i had been putting off for other things.......Cut from 1/4 BB with a 1/8 BB backer...used a FDUR #1 blade to cut it out and rattle can paint to finish it....Aleens tacky glue to put things back together.....This was a fun piece to do , hope you like it !

Cut from red oak.

I could never believe that packing tape lubricated blades. However, I did find a use for it. I was cutting a pattern out of Poplar. I was using a very dark portion of the board. As I was cutting the sawdust would remain on top of the pattern covering the pattern lines. The sawdust was dark and tended to stick to the paper pattern and the blower did not remove it adequately. I covered the pattern with packing tape and the slick surface allowed the blower to work flawlessly. That's my tape and I'm stick'n to it!

Napkin rings made from 1/2 inch poplar and painted with acrylic paint.

Hi Edward: If it's not noticeable why worry about it There is only one person who knows about the glue back Personally, I would charge more for the extra glue...lol Sell it, I say Fab4

Just had to add this post to the topic. I have been using this New set up for controlling the excess dust and let me tell you all something. NO DUST GETS AWAY FROM MY Dust Sucker Tubes. Using a Vac named BAD ASH.... It is about Half the Loudness of my normal Shop Vac. Very tolerable to me. Still able to enjoy my Background Music. I don't know how I have been Scrolling for over a Decade without knowing about this set up. Been using the Square box fan with Filter along with the lil fan blowing across the table for Many, many Years. This set up does work Good, but not all the Dust is contained on that filter. Anyway this just be my 13 cents worth of thoughts. Danny :+}

Not sure where she came from she’s cut out of 1/4” birch ply it’s aprox 8x10 and cut with #1and#2 spirals

This was the piece made from a paper cutting pattern. Pattern courtesy Pam Holtz, a noted folk artist from the Pennsylvania area. Painting performed by my wife who is an accomplished folk artist. It is mounted on a piece of tin that has been antiqued with Pewter Black, and framed in a stained wood frame. Not sure if this is how it's going to end up! Lew

Just completed this farmhouse style computer desk with drawer.....drawer has inter-locking dividers in it, also installed drawer guides for smooth operation......I never had made a drawer before...made completely with 2x construction grade lumber.....I planed the 2x6 top boards down to 1.250" to get rid of rounded edge & to get them smooth for desk top... top is stained red mahogany with 4 coats of Minwax clear poly brushed on.....top is 62"L x 27.5" deep.......bottom is sprayed with 1 coat of premium Kilz primer & 1 coat of Glidden semi gloss white paint, with my Wagner Flexio 590 sprayer, if you are looking for a paint sprayer, this one sprayed the thick Kilz like water, highly recommend .....no scrolling on this one.....comments please as always

Beautiful work Dan.

Very nicely done Dan. That came out fantastic. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Very very nice

Very, very nice.

Very nice Dan. Simple, but looks great! Rob

I have done it many times,I don't feel Guilty at all. If it's to noticeable then I don't sell it.

No, I don't feel guilty! Things happen. If I can glue it back together without it showing, I have no problem with that.

Not at all I have done it before. The glue joint is stronger than the rest of the project. If you do it neatly who is going to know except you.

Why feel guilty about that? When things are hand made you don’t get perfect things. I have reguled things were you can’t tell. See no problem.

Leaving a bandsaw blade in tension shortens the life and is so easy to do. I had a piece of wormy oak laying around so I used it to help me remember. (I am sure I am the ONLY ONE in the Scrollsaw Village that needs that kind of help!!) The sign sits on the bandsaw table when the saw is untensioned and hangs from the shop door when the saw is tensioned so I have to duck my head to miss it. IMG_0868.JPG 1.9 mb · Done

Thanks for the comments.. There is quite a lot of history with my brothers mill.. Those mills that you all seen at the shows is very similar to what my brother started out with.. being the youngest of 7 and my brother with the mill is the oldest.. I was just a very young kid playing in the dirt and in the sawdust pile when my father would take me over to the mill.. They use to do their own logging and the whole works.. But I do remember my brother first running the saw with a old ( not sure the model ) John Deere tractor with the big belt to the PTO pulley of the tractor.. Then he upgraded to a diesel semi motor..

I also believe that large truck springs will sag over time. They are not tensioned when forged. In a bridge, the cables are tensioned before the concrete is poured. The cables support the weight of the bridge itself, plus the traffic on it. The concrete provides the shape of the bridge. Re: Band saw blades & scroll saw blades, it's quite obvious on this subject that it's just a matter of whatever makes you feel good. For my own part (2 cents worth), I never mess with tension and have yet to see a problem. My band saw is 24 years old. A nap also makes me feel good. jerry

I would love one of these for sanding tools, but I'm with you - I don't think I have the skills to make a flip cart!

Well done Dan, If you can't use it my birthday is coming up tomorrow actually. Born in Fulton......... NY

Visited the Western Minnesota Steam Threshers Reunion a few years ago and observed a great saw mill. I've seen smaller operations but that was fantastic.

I ran a similar automated sawmill back in the 60's. Sitting in a glass booth pulling handles,turning switches, and pushing buttons sure beats the old manual mill that I grew up on.

If it is a well hidden glued spot I don't feel bad at all.

Agree with the rest.....as long as the repair is not noticeable. If the proper glue is used it will prob never come apart!!

Here is my submission. 1/2" Red Oak satin poly finish. Made this for my wife . Sue Mey Pattern .

Not at all... The glue joint if done properly is stronger than the actual wood.. which is why many use plywood for thin and fragile items.. Many things we buy for our homes have been glued.. tables, desk, cutting boards etc etc etc... so a small piece breaks.. glue it.. Now... with that said.. I won't sell a piece that the glue joint is obvious... most everything I've had break.. once glued. I could never find where it was... Ie if one piece out of a stacked cut broke and I glue it up and once they are all sanded / finished etc.. even though I know where the piece was broken. many times I cannot tell which one was the broken one.. and if i cannot find it among the others. then I guess I have no reason to worry about it ..

If the blade or bandsaw manufacturer recommends it, it is probably best. They are the experts.

On SSV, there is an autosave, but I wouldn't depend on it. But if you click into a new message, at the bottom of the compose screen it will ask if you want to restore your previous content.

I'm not sure about a scroll saw, but a band saw the blade in pushing against the tires, probably scoring them. I think I'll keep releasing tension on all the equipment. Only take a second and can't hurt.

It is more than the steel. The following is from the Timbersaw bandsaw blade website: "When you are done cutting for the day, take the tension off your blade. Band saw blades, when warmed up from cutting, always stretch; and upon cooling shrink by tens of thousandths of an inch each cooling period. Therefore, blades, when left on the saw over tension themselves and leave the memory of the two wheels in the steel of the band, which will cause cracking in the gullet. When you leave the band on your saw under tension, not only do you distort the crown and flatten out the tires (which makes them very hard), but you also place undue stress on your bearings and shafts. Believe it or not; you can, and will damage your wheel geometry sooner or later and considerably shorten bearing life. You are also crushing your tires or V-belts."

I wanted to add that I did not use oven parchment paper since it is too thin. I purchased writing parchment paper for Hobby Lobby. It is thicker and easier to work with and still allows light to penetrate through.

I've used rice paper before. Also, if you are making it for yourself and use a LED you can gather by with regular printer paper, but rice paper will last longer.

Here's my submission. Some Easter Peeps and wooden carrots last weekend. I made a fun little promo video for SSV's Facebook page showing the process. Super easy project that can be knocked out in an hour. You can find a free pattern here: http://bit.ly/2pyXzIk

We don't know how they are made either. I do know some blades are milled. There also other methods of manufacture.

Love the frame idea. They would look good either way. Well done. Marg

Nicely done looks good

thanks guys. As I was typing the above question I realised I did not know what speed the saw was set at from the factory and it was not mentioned in the manual. So I went and cut my glued up block anyway. It was set at low speed as I found out. I cut straight lines no problem then half way through an S cut the blade jammed so next step is to change the belt to high. I'll let you know how that goes. As Ron says, it was the way I was feeding the wood into the shape that caught me out. The model is Fox but the manual comes in all languages except English so I'm assuming its a medium standard European make. [English version was downloaded online] Bob

Hey guys. Ya.... Vacuum suction just sounded Original to call it a Sucker. Sucker of that Nasty Saw Dust. Even cutting MDF 1/4" for the past day plus.... you cannot notice a trace of dust on table or below. Yea! :+}