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Cut from red oak.

Just finished this OWL, a Sue Mey pattern, done on 1/8" BB with a painted backer. edward

I could never believe that packing tape lubricated blades. However, I did find a use for it. I was cutting a pattern out of Poplar. I was using a very dark portion of the board. As I was cutting the sawdust would remain on top of the pattern covering the pattern lines. The sawdust was dark and tended to stick to the paper pattern and the blower did not remove it adequately. I covered the pattern with packing tape and the slick surface allowed the blower to work flawlessly. That's my tape and I'm stick'n to it!

My favorite airplane is the A-10 Warthog. I was amazed when I actually stood next to one and the gun. The gun took up most of the airplane. I made this model mainly out of Red Oak, Ash and turned the engines from Aspen. The model is about 12" long.

Cut from red oak.

I finally got around to using the tubes I purchased a couple of months ago. Replaced the PVC tubes I had been using. I guess the thing I like the most is the fact I can remove a tube and keep it next to the saw. I frequently stop at some point on a project and when I returned to it I could not remember what blade I was using. I don't remember much period.

3days cutting but it’s done hope everyone likes it it’s not overly challenging but time consuming main ingredient is patients. Size is 15x21 on Baltic birch 1/4” ply

This is a pattern from a book by Patrick Spielman. 1/2” Walnut. Any ideas for a color background so you can see it better?

...and debated what to do with them. frames- i complicate them. but decided to try something a little different this time. now im wondering if i should have put them side by side. ive got 2 more waiting for frames, so maybe ill try that with those. or not.

I got this pattern from 300 Christian & Inspirational Patterns for Scroll Saw Woodworking Page 83- it is the 2nd finished/framed work. The panel is done with Minwax Pre-stain and Red Oak 215 (a new stain we're trying - I like it is as well ) on 1/4" BB ply - the frame I've already posted on - one of mine made with the miter jig Thanks for looking - More to come

Had a request for a name plaque for a little one near me so came up with this as his garden backs onto a railway line cut in oak using #7 Pegas modified

Thanks! all for the comments. I have impressed myself w/this one. I needed the planer yesterday to mill the material for the drawers... it takes less than a minute to switch the machines. Created a couple of drawers. Nothing fancy. I had to stretch my cabinet from the plans for the length of the ss and the in/out feed tables for the planer, I have a drawer on each side.

If it is working that is good.

I'm experimenting with some new projects to make for this coming Christmas Season. One of these is the mailbox attached. The pattern is a slightly modified version of one by Dianne Thompson. I made a few small changes, but it's mostly the same as her's.. It is about 3 1/4" tall and was all cut from one piece of wood, but the flag and shaft were cut out separately from the same piece of wood and then attached with a small spot of glue. No other glue joints exist in it. The original pattern has the flag sticking out of the top center of the mailbox, which allows it to be cut as all as one piece., but it just didn't look right to me there This mailbox was cut from poplar, but I have made a few others from pine. The red flag and the leaf color was done with marking pens. I'll be trying to find a better way on future mailboxes. I used a Flying Dutchman #1R blade for this. I'm also trying different cut sequences and blades, hoping to be able to cut it faster and easier in the future. It took about 50 minutes to cut this one. Line following accuracy is absolutely necessary for this to look good. Making these is quite challenging. Charley

2 patterns from the SSV pattern library..... with a twist...

Day 1 of a 2 day event was today. I had to shake the rust off and remember how to do this! :-) Sold 40 today with a decent sized crowd ($885). Tomorrow should be better since today wasn't a holiday for many folks. Goal for tomorrow is to sell 60. Dogs were the number 1 selling item as usual selling 14 of them. I sold several items I only had 1 of on hand, so I'll have some cutting to do next week to restock. Next Saturday I heard about an event called WoofStock... a dog festival. Dog parade and everything. LOL I'll give it a try and see if enough dog crazy folks show up.

A week ago Tuesday Bushton said they would be sending my controller and motor. Two days later the sent me an email saying the motor need a special bearing and they had to order it. I'd just go to Western Bearing and pick one up. Well I Googled Bushton, Kansas. The population is 279. Oh that's why they had to order it. They have been good to apprise me on how things were. I know they are a small company and farming is their main business. I'd love to visit them sometime if I ever had occasion to go to Kansas.

My new pattern of fretwork bowl (availabe at http://alexscrollsaw.wixsite.com/scrollsawpatterns) Birch plywood, 1/4 inch, flat blades #3 LuxTools (Germany) Video of making it:

Photo easel from Wood Magazine enlarged 2X with my personal modifications. link to plan https://www.woodstore.net/Photo-display-Easel-p/gr-00492a.htm

Decided to go ahead and do this Haida style Swan that i had been putting off for other things.......Cut from 1/4 BB with a 1/8 BB backer...used a FDUR #1 blade to cut it out and rattle can paint to finish it....Aleens tacky glue to put things back together.....This was a fun piece to do , hope you like it !

This was the piece made from a paper cutting pattern. Pattern courtesy Pam Holtz, a noted folk artist from the Pennsylvania area. Painting performed by my wife who is an accomplished folk artist. It is mounted on a piece of tin that has been antiqued with Pewter Black, and framed in a stained wood frame. Not sure if this is how it's going to end up! Lew

Up until now, I have been leaving a sticky note on the table of my saw with the brand name and all the info for the blade that is in the saw. Mainly because, like you, I can't remember much anymore. Ray

I have cut this pattern just a few times in the past, but I wanted to post here because this is probably the best I've ever cut it. This is one of those patterns that gives me opportunity to improve myself with every cutting. I don't cut it often because it doesn't sell well . . . . because I have it priced way too high . . . because it is a pain in the backside to cut. (Cross Posted to SSWC) In case some of you wonder how I can cut that small, especially since my eyesight is not the best . . . I am of the belief that most of the veteran cutters on this forum are better cutters than I am, but I cheat by using 4+ reading glasses plus a magnifiying lamp along with plenty of light. Here is what it actually looks like under heavy magnification. The trick is not cutting small because in metal that is easy. The trick is clearly seeing the pattern. Of course seeing it clearly, sometimes means printing it on quality paper, not cheap copy paper. (CA glue seeps through some paper, making it fuzzy/muddled)

Thank you! I have been trying to find how the tape is a lubricant. I was looking at the adhesive.....not. polyvinyl carbamate If you need a chemistry lesson, google that. The Release Agent The release agent is made of a complex combination of compounds of oxygen, carbon, and hydrogen. It is the most complicated part of the tape as if it is too oily it won't stay as a tape roll and if it's too sticky, you won't be able to use the roll. https://www.mayzo.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/PSTC-Release-Coat-Paper.pdf

I used Pegas MG today for the first time I cut this using Poplar and #5 Pegas MG blade. I was pleased how it cut.

I'm anxious to see those photos.

I think the problem is with the noise of the vacuum cleaner. I cannot stand the noise. My HF DC sits outside my shop so the noise is reduced. There are much quieter vacuums than mine but totally beyond my budget. In addition for me I have no room next to my saw.

I have done a test. When the wood I was cutting started burning, I added packing tape to the piece without removing the blade. I just stopped, taped and resumed cutting. The result was amazing!

That is why I am going to buy the upgrade clamps. I used to topfeed my Dewalt, my EX doesn’t like it.

It's Smoke and Mirrors: There are just a very very very few manufacturers that make Scrollsaw and Jewelers blades, and everything else you see out there is a re-brand: http://www.haunstetter-saegenfabrik.de: This German company makes Olsen and a few obscure specialty blades under their own brands. Niqua: The other German company makes brands: Niqua (non-U.S.), Flying Dutchman, and most other blades marked "Made in Germany" SCIES (Pegas/Grommet): These guy are really making a mark now. They lead in the Jewelers Blade market by a mile, and seem to be quickly becoming the Scroll Saw blade of choice (my opinion). This company is very willing to sell their stuff under house brands and various labels for many vendors, but if it is marked "Made in Switzerland, then these guys made it. Kapoor Engineering Tools: These blades made in India and represent the bottom of the bottom for blades. They sell more blades in the Jewelers blade market, but also carry the cheap blade market on the scroll saw side. There may be another company in India that is also selling this kind of crap, but I'm not sure. No doubt, that companies rebranding blades from these manufactures just hide the source company. I'm pretty sure you could put similar blades under the magnifier to identify the manufactures.

Funny thing is I’m probably one of few amateurs here most do it for a little side line others for a little cost recovery and I do it strictly as a hobby rarely selling anything mostly I give them away or donations.

Some simple ornament hangers on the cheap. Sorry for the bluuy pics.

Does anyone know if the Excalibur's come with the thumb crews with the swivel ends ( whatever they call them ).. I was always under the impression they do.. but my new still boxed used saw doesn't have those little inserts in the end of the thumb screws.. ( well at least the top clamp didn't have them. ) I've been having some issues with the blade staying in the top clamp and so i took it out and was going to clean it up and found that it doesn't have those inserts.. Maybe the bottom clamp does.. as I haven't looked yet.. I did go over to steal the one out of my DeWalt and now no issues a all.. ( I do have a few NEW sets but stole it from the DeWalt because I didn't want to open a new package up if it wasn't the same ).. Anyway I just was always under the impression that is what the saws came with? My Dewalt didn't have the screws with the ends either when I first bought it new.. but the replacements did I think.. maybe it was just the Seyco ones I bought that did.. Not sure but at any rate.. i think all saws should have the inserts in the end of the thumb screws... I flip / flop back and forth.. on the Hawk and Ex.. but I think once I get more use on the EX it'll be my go to saw.. I still have trouble getting the blade clamped into the upper clamp ( bottom feeder ). I wish the set screws was designed in a way that you insert the blade all the way to the back of the clamp.. rather than trying to guess if I have the blade in the right spot as I turn the set screw... but putting in the thumb screws with the inserts in the end made it much easier.. as before that if the blade was to the back or front too far the screw spinning would make the blade move away from the screw and I kept tightening it only to find that the blade didn't even clamp.. with lots of use.. I was getting a feel for knowing that the clamp was pushing the blade away.. but it sure was annoying and taking a lot of time fiddling with the darn thing... something that if the blade was supposed to go all the way to the back wouldn't be an issue..

Just completed this farmhouse style computer desk with drawer.....drawer has inter-locking dividers in it, also installed drawer guides for smooth operation......I never had made a drawer before...made completely with 2x construction grade lumber.....I planed the 2x6 top boards down to 1.250" to get rid of rounded edge & to get them smooth for desk top... top is stained red mahogany with 4 coats of Minwax clear poly brushed on.....top is 62"L x 27.5" deep.......bottom is sprayed with 1 coat of premium Kilz primer & 1 coat of Glidden semi gloss white paint, with my Wagner Flexio 590 sprayer, if you are looking for a paint sprayer, this one sprayed the thick Kilz like water, highly recommend .....no scrolling on this one.....comments please as always

WOW! That's looking great.

I like your setup. I had not thought of mag switches. That is a great idea. I used to know absolutely everything. Oh, that was when I was 16. Forgotten a lot since then.

This weekend was full of honey-doos, most of which involved sitting around my wife's recently-deceased aunt's house waiting for people to show up to buy furniture, then helping dismantle said furniture and try to maneuver it out of doorways that were not designed to have anything bigger than a doll's furniture pass through them. I swear we violated several laws of physics trying to get the sofa out, so my sincerest apologies if I inadvertently unleashed any Elder Beings upon this earth. Unless they hit DC first. Still, between that, cleaning up branches from a downed tree in the back yard, and various other chores, I managed to get in a couple of hours' worth of turning lumber into sawdust. Decided to do a quick Steve Good pattern (www.scrollsawworkship.blogspot.com), and used BLO for the first time (man...they're SERIOUS about keeping those cans closed in the stores! Had to break out some adjustable pliers to get the thing off the first time). Not the most intricate pattern, but one that I can sit back and smile and be glad I did. Its only been drying about an hour, so still have 23 to go before I can call it done, but I'm pleasantly happy with how its turning out. Subtle, enhancing the colors of the wood, instead of staining them a completely different shade. If all goes well, I may have found my new go-to finish.

Kevin, I have the black EX 16. I bought it in late 2015 and it looked like brand new then. It must be made around 2012-2014 or so. I am a bottom feeder also but don't have the issues of not positioning the blade all the way back in the top clamp. I always push the blade all the way back and the thumb screw does not miss it. May something is wrong with that top clamp. Let us know how it goes. Good luck Sam

Hi Les: If you stand there, try clicking your heels together and repeat after me: "There's no place like home", "There's no place like home", There's no place like home You may just end up in Kansas - It worked for a girl named Dorothy Thanks for the feedback on your order Fab4

I just ordered blades from Wooden Teddy Bear. Good service. My go to for blades.

All the scroll saw catalog and online stores carry them. Having said that, I don't own a set. If I need to clean something up or reshape, I just go back and clean it up with the blade. Quicker and easier!

You are absolutely correct. The same can be said for masking tape or blue painters tape. It is the top layer that is coated so that the tape does not permanently stick to itself and unrolls easily.

Consider the Pegas Modified Geometry blades. The seem to me to cut straight, and to last a long time, and no burning when cutting out thickish bowl rings.

I am sorry but piping down a dust collector does not really get you much. At most a dust collector gives you 8" or so of suction. Closing the end down only increases the suction by a very small amount and nothing close to a shop vac. I am trying to explain this so people do not get the wrong idea. I am not trying to be argumentative but trying to get others to understand. A shop vac has almost 10 times the suction of a dust collector. I have a very powerful cyclone dust collector for my shop. It is a 5 hp and will suck 1800 cfm. This is actual measured flow and not some wild manufacturer claim. However, for my scroll saw and some other things in my shop, the vac does a better job. The vac I am using for my scroll saw has a suction of around 90" and flow rate about 125 cfm. Just to be clear about suction, the inches refer to how high a water column can be pulled up. One can measure it with a water u-tube manometer. The photo is an example of one with blue dyed water that I used to measure suction of a dust collector.

Thanks Rolf. I've been needing to tap into my regular DC. I have two Hawks and that would work perfect. Your mounting at the rear of the Hawk is very neat.

great site

Can you tell me more about the trap you added?

I put this system on my Hawk last July and use a Festool Midi vacuum. Like you said Danny I should have done this years ago. I used a couple of Mag switches to hold it to my Hawk table. I also added a trap to catch the small pieces that I did not want to get sucked up. The only thing I was not happy with was that the upper tube was a pain to move out of my way and then back again as the flex tubes are a bit stiff (as they should be). A few weeks ago I added this coupling using it as a swivel. I snugged it down just enough so I have no leak but still easy to swing out of the way. I drilled and tapped a hole in the ring for a screw to keep setting from changing when I swing the nozzle. The large picture was before I added the trap and swivel.

Better days are coming!

Steve is a great guy to deal with and has some very innovative patterns. He provides a free service where he sends an email each day and that email has a NEW pattern. As well as the pattern, the email often has notes , reviews, tips, etc. Although the patterns are free, Steve does accept donations and I encourage folks to make such donations. Every now and then, I feel that the patterns and advice that I get from Steve have now reached the level to which I have donated, at which time I top up my donation.