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I was so excited to see our first Hummingbirds last weekend here in Justin, Texas that I had to finish up a project that I have been working on. It is a handmade, inlaid picture using a combination of maple, cherry, cedar, mahogany and poplar woods.

Finished my chess set after starting on it about two years ago. Set it aside doing other projects knocked off the dust and finished it. Made with cherry, walnut and poplar. The pieces are from Diana Thompson's pattern. They are made out of poplar and the dark ones are stained walnut. The board pattern came from Woodworker's Journal, Rick White. I made every thing 3/4" bigger to go with the bigger chess pieces. The size is 4 1/2" x 21". I think I will make a table for it. May take another two years LOL.

Figured it was time to do some small signs again. Always like to have a few of these around for laughs and smiles. Hope you enjoy them. jim

As an homage to my late father I made this piece designed by the inimitable Fiona Kingdon. My father was a beekeeper and a carpenter. Thus material and motif are the perfect combination. Alder, 16“ diameter.

Pattern From Sam Custodio

Note the whiskers on this leopard I cut several years ago.. The ones on the right side broke out some.. because I didn't drill the holes to make it cut the weak side first.. this is the piece I learned to do that on. If I was to cut it again.. I'm pretty certain I could do it without breakage just by drilling the holes strategically.. This was cut stack cutting 4 1/8" 11 x 14... two was BB ply and two was oak plywood.. used a #5 FD-UR and some areas a #3 FD UR.. Another thing that could have helped not break it would be a different blade choice... reverse teeth are nice but for a fragile piece.. they can and will make a piece bounce around like you mentioned... that's those reverse teeth cutting away the fuzzys etc on the up stroke... Still looks alright and most people probably wouldn't know the whiskers on the one side broke out... now that I say it everyone will be looking at the spot.. but otherwise pretty sure the average person wouldn't know that.

Cutting/Serving Boards Caribbean Rosewood. Since I am close to Music City... I thought why not. The wood was fairly expensive, so just to break even, I would have to charge 10 dollars per board. They are 10 x 7" . Do you think they would sell at a craft show?

This is my latest project. I thought it turned out pretty good. The pattern was from Wild Bill 2011

Alex Fox @alexfox has come up with a few cool basket plans recently and I decided to cut 2 of them. I used 1/2" cherry for both baskets. Since Alex's plans called for 1/4" I only cut every other ring. From making other baskets I know that too many rings makes a funny looking bowl. Anyway, the fewer rings does loose some of the spiral effect, but I still like it. Katie

I will cut out many small areas before cutting out a large fragile area.. example would be the leopards lower chin area.. I'd cut out all of those smaller areas out of the chin... then cutout around the chine.. If I did the opposite of that cutting out those little spots in that area after cutting out the bigger spots would have me on edge.. so sometimes you really have to study a pattern to see what you need to do first and plan out where your pilot holes are going to need to be.. After you do a few projects you'll get the hang of it better and be able to look at a pattern and know better what you need to do.. I still mess up the cutting order and will get ahead of myself from time to time..and say... maybe cut the large portion of the chin area out first without thinking... then I say to myself.. Oh Crap, LOL then just cut it very slow and careful... and when that does happen.. sometimes I'll go to a much smaller less aggressive blade.. For stack cutting only two 1/8" like you did... I'd probably go down a size in blades.. I typically stack at least 3 ( usually 4-5 ).. and use either a 3 or 5 blade.. Can't remember the last time I only cut 2.. but I do know they get tougher to do unless you run the saw real slow.. I do know the last time I did cut only 2 I used a FD -UR #1 blade.. On another note with blades.. a brand new blade will cut quite fast at first.. Plywood will take the edge off the sharpness fairly quick.. so in some cases... after I've put in a new blade... Sometimes I will cut out larger less detailed sections to sort of take that edge off.. before jumping on the harder fine detailed stuff... just sort of helps from cutting too fast when you're trying to go slow and take it easy.. Edit to add: I cannot remember what saw you have.. Think it was you that just got the new Delta? Anyway.. blade size from one saw to the next can have a different effect on how fast / aggressive the cutting will be.. Example... Where I use a Pegas #3 on my DeWalt, or Excalibur for a cutting... If I was to cut on my Hawks... I'd jump it up to a #5.. as the Hawk is a less aggressive cutting action of the long arms vrs. the short little arms of the DeWalt style saws.. so basically the Hawk is not as aggressive cutting as the others.. and on the Hawk.. I'd still use a #3 blade for stack cutting only 2 pieces of 1/8 ply.. This is why many times I'm hesitant to say what blade size is best for certain projects.. because not all saws cut the same.. and not all people like to cut fast / slow.. it's more of a learning curve for what YOU like..

I've never needed or even used a zero clearance either... I do plan my pilot holes to the cutting I will be doing.. IE.. I drill the holes so that I'm cutting right next to the last hole I cut out first. I've done that opposite once and when you have a cutout almost cut and are left with cutting next to a thin line like you mention it's more likely to break it.. Not sure if you follow what I'm sayin but.. anyway I tried LOL Edit to add:

like this pattern and decided to cut it. Had fun doing it. The lettering was a bit tricky but went slow and all was good. Got some folks I know who fit right in with this group. jim penquin

My first attempt at making a pattern from a picture.........still learning what size blades work better for different areas.......overall pleased. Be Safe & Happy Easter to you all !!!!!!

Better than 15 yrs. cutting and have never posted anything! but I cut this for my son and I kinda like it!!!

Cut from Red Oak.

Had a load of 1/2" thick offcuts of ply and thought I'd make some pencil boxes 4 3/4" x 3 1/4" with a nice piece of teak for the base the bird scrolling make a rubbish ply look good. Roly

Thinking out loud here, if the final product is to be painted anyhow, how about a light coat of sealer, let dry then do the taping? Might help keep the wood slivers. Just a thought. Russ

Determine what blade you want to use, then use the smallest entry hole that will let the blade pass through. As others have said, look for the most discrete location for the entry hole. Intersections are great, but not always available. Look for ways to blend the entry hole into the vein. Depending on the location, I sometimes cut the vein with a straight blade, then go back with a spiral blade to open it up a little more. Several ways to skin the proverbial cat.

I do as many others and try to find an intersection of two veins. If the veins are close enough I might create my own intersection. Remember know one will ever know after you remove the pattern. It will really depend on the pattern but I have also drilled pilot holes on both ends of a vein to give a balanced look. Be creative.

just about the only time I tape a piece back in is if I have a delicate peninsula that I am worried about catching on the table while I am cutting something else.

I've never used a zero clearance... nor have I ever taped pieces back in to help with strength.. While it may help some? I don't see it helping all that much since the cut is already there and weakens the piece anyway... I do the fragile parts first because I feel doing them last you have a whole lot of fragile going on.. plus.. if you need to scrap the project because the fragile section broke out.. it's easier to do with only 1 hour invested rather than 6 hours or more. LOL I'm sure others will differ with my theory.. and I really don't do a lot of this portrait style cutting.. so maybe someone else has a different or better method.. What I do works for me.. That Leopard cutting was one of my first fragile type cuttings I've done and was a learning piece for me, LOL

Ray, The whiskers on the left side of the picture.. I'd cut closest to the leopards mouth first then the next hole would be drilled almost near the point in the next cutout next to it ( smaller cutout ) but since I typically cut counter clock wise.. drill the hole near the point at the bottom of that next cut and i'd cut down into that pointed area and spin the cut up to cut along the side next to the last cutout ( next to the Leopards mouth ) cut up along that thin line of the whisker and then spin back around and come back down the other side to the starting point.. Then the next section outward from the mouth.. so in the whiskers area of that pattern would be the first part of the cutting I'd do.. working from the leopards face outward on each side of the face.. I do the weaker cuts first.. When I did this cutting several years ago. the whiskers was about one of the last parts I cut.. which by then you're working with a very large fragile area, LOL

This is some fine cutting!! I can't offer any advice but your work is really good!!

Your ships look great! Keep up the good work! Are you goin' to frame them? That would make them really stand out! I've got one saw set up with a zero clearance pilot hole. I use it for feathers, small fretwork projects, etc. Otherwise, my BM 26 gets most of the work. It doesn't have much of a clearance pilot hole. When I drill my entry holes in small fret work, I don't drill them close together, or in curves. reason being, to initiate a cut directly next to one another in fine work is disaster in the making. Drill your entry holes opposite of one another. That way, not only the start of the cut, but the vibration of the blade cutting doesn't break what you've already cut. And I tape small, close work to keep it from breakin' apart. Another primary issue with fine fret work is blade size & speed. I'm a slow cutter, & in fine work, use the smallest blade I can to keep the work lookin' shiny.;) I've been called a perfectionist more than once. Fretwork has a reputation of wantin' to jump a little during cutting. As mentioned, it is tough to get cut with a scroll saw. It can be done, but, well, we'll leave that for another day. If your project wants to jump, try slowin' your blade speed down just a little. Use your hold down foot that came with your saw, or, you can put a little down pressure with your fingers on both sides of the blade.

Kevin, on a piece like this would you start your cutting from the whiskers out or would they be some of the last cuttings? I'm not sure I understand the methodology of this subject. I can certainly see how you would want to tape in the removed pieces for stability but I'm just not sure what you mean by strategic planning. Ray

Just completed this wedding/anniversary door hanger for someone....1/2" sanded ply....rattle can black paint.....comments are welcome. TY.

You may remember that I posted a cross about a week ago that was for a donation. Well today I put together all three of the pieces that I made for the religious school fund raiser. Here they are. I know they will not bring a lot but every dollar counts. I just did not have much shop time lately. Dick heppnerguy

My 6 year old grandson has been spending his Spring Break with us. We have been working on this ALex Fox pattern of the Humvee. I stacked cut two, this one I will keep, the second one will go home with him for him and his dad to put together. We had a great time with it. It took me two days to cut all the parts out. Putting it together was easy, just following Alex's video. Thanks Alex for the nice free pattern.

recently i've noticed that when i remove my tape & pattern from my scroll saw project it is pulling up tiny slivers of the wood. I use 3m blue painters tape. i sand the wood first before i do anything. I use mostly Baltic Birch for just about all my projects just because it's easy to work with. With this particular project i cut using a Pegas #1 SPR modified geometry blade. if you look close around the letters "E" & "W" and around the handle u can see the wood is rough. i sanded it as much as i could before i painted it, but still. so several questions: is this happening because i'm cutting detailed using a soft wood? the wrong type of blade? the wrong type of tape? not sanded enough before hand? Any and all critiquing. tips. advice is always welcome for this old guy.

These are just a few of my compound cuts. I like cutting compound cuts, because once you remove the wood from sides it's like opening a box of Cracker Jacks and seeing the surprise inside. I use 1.5" x 1.5" x 5" Bass wood (the wood wood carvers use). I found the best price for buying Basswood is on Ebay.

Been a while since I've posted anything. Kind of burned myself out scrolling and took a break for a while. Anyway back in the shop and just finished this Charles Hand pattern. Was good getting back to the saw. Mike

Baby soda bottles, they are bullet proof. https://www.homesciencetools.com/product/giant-test-tubes-15-pack/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqYfWBRDPARIsABjQRYzlBsJqpOYgd1er8Z9FBDDdyQkRfG9EMXCoGhfrmN5OBaTsFssLh1YaAhyFEALw_wcB

I typically apply the pattern directly to the plywood and have never had a problem with fibers lifting when removing the pattern. Like others have already said, just spritz a little MS on the pattern and lift it right off. If I intend to paint a piece, I often apply clear shellac as a sealer first. It dries quick and very hard. If there is any roughness, it will easily rub right out, leaving a nice smooth surface that acrylic paint bonds to quite well. No raising of the grain and you get a pretty smooth finish, even with the acrylic paint.

Sometimes the playing card trick just isn't going to work - very small ornaments as well as the antlers and paddle blades of the Kayaking Moose come very quickly to mind - these kinds of small pieces don't do well around the large cutout hole on an EX. I sacrificed a piece of 1/8 ply cut to fit the entire cutting table as my zero clearance "insert" - clamped on all four corners when I need a zero-clearance insert - putting a finish on it and a coat of wax is helpful. And for those pieces that need to be held down right beside the saw blade you can take a 6 inch piece of pencil sized dowel and sharpen it in the pencil sharpener - then take the other end and give it the shape of a flat-end screwdriver on your sander - a great little homemade tool that is always beside my saw. Finally, if those fine pieces are doing a lot of jumping around on you then experiment with a smaller blade and/or faster speed/slower push. Jay

I mounted a 1/8 piece of masonite as a zero clearance top, one of the best things I have done - for me anyway. I made what I call a fret-finger to hold those narrow small areas while cutting EDIT - forgot to say the cutting looks great.

No zero clearance for me either. I think about it when a small piece wants to drop and gets hung up but that isn't too often. When I did the Marx Brothers I saved some pieces to put back for support but never used them. If they pop out just toss those pieces. I do usually have a finger close to the blade when cutting fine detail. Relax and don't over-think it. It sounds like you are already doing what a lot of us do.

When stack cutting an intricate detailed pattern Jes I first zero clearance my table and check table and blade are square. Blade size I prefer are numbers 2 and 3 for portraits. I start my cutting from the top left working my way across always scouting what's ahead of me for cutting. I find applyiing masking tape as you go along strengthens the delicate parts with your finger at times needed to hold down as well. Cut at the speed you're comfortable with and be relaxed. Careful removing tape when done cutting. Sample attached. 10603529_1469567353293805_8410544227275241963_n.tiff

I wouldn't worry about the pieces that pop out, as long as you've fully cut them. No reason to tape them back in place. If you start cutting your project in the center, as a rule, cut out from there. I personally cut clockwise from the center out. When you come to a place in the project where several cuts meet close together, start at the weakest point & work to the strongest point. This way, you've got the smallest, weakest, pieces cut when you get to the stronger point. And while you're cutting your stronger points, the weaker places don't break apart. As far as blade size, personally, I would use a #3 polar blade. In the smaller cuts, I would use a #1 polar blade. Both Olson blades. The reason for my choice of blades is because of the thin material, & the polar blades give a cleaner, smoother cut. hope all this answers your questions, jes. If not, post more & we'll answer'em.:)

I cut all the feathers for the dream catchers I make. They are 3/32" thick. I drill one hole at the bottom & use a #0/2 flat blade, & follow the opposite direction of the feather in order to get the outside cuts. In the center, I drill one hole, cut the center out. I use small spiral blades when I'm cutting animals. Like shoulder lines, jaw lines, tail lines, tree lines, leaves, etc. I use a 68 or 70 bit, & start in cutting in those places a flat blade won't make the turns.

Not to jump in on kevins post, ray, but, were it me cuttin' it, I would drill entry holes close to his nose, between the whiskers. I'd start the cutting at his nose, leaving the whiskers to cut at the end of the project. Leaving support around the whiskers to prevent breaking. Probably taping too. The rest of the project would get cut out around them. And then come back & cut out the whiskers to finish out the project. Does that mat make sense?

I do as Katie except I will usually drill the hole on the end or beginning of the vein. If there ar intersecting veins, I'll drill the hole at the intersection. This hides the hole better.

I use a small drill bit and put the hole in the middle somewhere. Then as I cut I feather out to narrow on the ends. This hides the entry hole pretty well.

Can use some PVC pipe too. Buy some end caps. Use a painting code system or just put labels on them.

Try taking the lever out and cleaning the areas. May have enough fine saw dust to create friction. I do know that Seyco had replacements for sale. Best of luck Marg.

It seems the only place i can find to get Olson blades reasonable is Sloans. Does any one have a different source? Thank you

A great idea and beautiful looking wood. I can see you having to make more of them. Marg

Nice one - funny as well

Thanks guys I will give it a go. Marg

Yeah, I have my go too blades and the source for them.. Always liked dealing with Mike.. we sure lost a good friend when he past.. even though I've never met him.. he was always very helpful and quick to reply to an email etc.. I still use some of the FD blades and probably always will.. but I don't use them exclusively as I once did since I found the Pegas blades.. I actually use a few blades from Olsen too... for me.. FD, Olsen, and Pegas all have good blades.. and I use blades from ll of them.. just depends upon what I'm cuttin... and what saw I'm using..

You can take the boy out of the farm but you can't take the farm out of the boy! Love the farmer. Small farmers are all but gone. Still praying for you.