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I saw this on Steve's site and had a piece of 3/4 pine just laying around begging to be a Butterfly......cut at 1 1/2 degree bevel to pop it out....A nice easy project....Steve good is very good to all us Scrollers......Thanks for looking.

During the last couple of months, Steve Good has created about a dozen "stickman" patterns and posted them in his daily blog. They cover quite a wide range, including among others: Stickman Baseball Stickman Ice Hockey Stickwoman Dog Walking Stickman Rock-band Stickman Steve Good and Family They are all quite whimsical and I plan to cut a few of them. Stickman Baseball is the first of these: I cut the figures and the playing surface from 6mm thick Baltic birch plywood. The bases are 6mm thick white oak. The figures and the playing surface are stained with Samen water-based stain.

This is the first box I have ever made and it was for my daughters cats ashes. I was not game to inlay the letters without a lot of practice. Anyway the wood is ....... opps I have forgotten, and the letters and paw prints are from 2.5mm bamboo. Marg THE WOOD IS IRONBARK.

I have no idea how my photos came out like this. I tried doing thumbnails but could not figure it out. Anyway the shop is 8x14' and is in one corner of the garage. The last three photos are at the rear of the shop where I have my other stuff like 2 belt sanders, table saw, the box I use for spraying patterns and for spray painting, band saw, etc. Last photo is my 12L14 steel is stacked. I don't show the pedestal grinder or metal band saw.

Couldn't agree more Steve here's mine in crappy ply and your right simplesssssssss. Roly

This video is about three years old. The planer has been removed and replaced with a SuperMax sander. But, other than that it's pretty much what's there.

Ok then - here goes... It's not pretty and one thing I would like is a real shop. It gets kind of cramped at times and I try to keep it clean by putting things away at the end of each session so I can start the next session with everything where it belongs. Unfortunately, the wife is now in the shop and she just can't get the hang of putting things away at the end of each session. I built all the carts and work benches as well as all the jigs. Hope this isn't too many pics, so here goes: Outside looking in - what a mess To the left are my drip boxes and extra table set up - in the back is my 8' work bench Cleat wall - Tools, tool box, stationary work bench Used to be my layout table until I got into scrolling - now it's a scroll table LOL Delta saw in front and Wen behind it. Against the wall is the wifes work bench I made for her Big HF dust control in corner - hiding behind the scrap buckets - table saw on the left Setup a centipede table now for layout and framing Chemical and stain cabinet - repurposed it from a bookcase made in the only woodworking class I've taken Miter station - I hardly use it anymore Clamp Wall - I make my own pipe clamps Look back - Skil 9" band saw, grinder, HF disc sander and new Wen drill press you can't see That's enough I think Wish I had room to spread out Can't wait to see everyone else...

This is a cool idea. We can all rob ideas for our shops from everyone else.. ....so, I'm very blessed to have two shops. A garage shop, for the big stuff, and a basement shop for the fine work. I live in the house that my dad built and I grew up in. Many of the tools were his and the tools I Iearned on. The basement shop is one of the back bedrooms in the basement. Man caves w/pin ball machines and big tvs are ok for a few hours....but these caves.....they are for a life time of fun.

Here is a video of my 2 car garage I'm slowly making into my workshop. Workshop I'm hoping in time, I will get a 10" bandsaw and a lathe along with a heater for the winter time.

I think the ship is my favorite to date... 1/8" BB ply - Golden Oak stain with pre-stain. Frame is pine with Maple stain The light house - again 1/8" BB Ply, no stain just a poly finish. Frame is Pine with Mahogany stain The Love sign - 1/8" bb ply with Golden oak stain. Outer frame is Pine with no stain, inner frame is 'L' ping molding with Mahogany stain Thanks for looking

A very easy pattern for a spiral blade.I loved watching this one come together with my peripheral vision! 10.75" x 8" Fiber board1/8" thick

Roly's man cave.

I started scrolling a couple of years ago. I look at a lot of you tube and sow some videos. I had a Ryobi scroll saw I used to cut off small pieces of wood used for model railroad structures. It did not work out well. A few years ago I purchased a scroll saw from Grizzly to try cutting out brass clock plates. It was fairly robust but was so poorly made I gave it away. After viewing several scrolling videos I purchased a 14" Hawk. I knew nothing about Hawk except it was purported to be good quality. It was made to be used on a ShopSmith. It had no motor of course so I provided a motor with a two step sheave. It worked beautifully. I then saw a 216VS Hawk which I am using now. I also have a 220VS Hawk ultra which is waiting a controller and motor repair from Bushton which I should receive soon. I do not scroll for profit. In fact most of what I cut just stacks up in a corner. I have neither the strength or interest in selling. I enjoy sitting at the saw listening to it, relaxed with not a care in the world. I've also done a lot of pen making but find scrolling much more relaxing. Finding SSV has been the highlight of scrolling. What a fabulous community. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Probably more than you want to know.

I was severely injured in an accident, and I was going crazy with nothing to do. My wife at that time, bought me a Delta 2000 model 16"scroll saw. Up to that point, I didn't have any idea of what scroll sawing was. I got into the hobby back then,and I have been enjoying it ever since. Since the accident,I have not been without severe pain in my back and legs. Everything I do causes pain, and I was going insane before I got the scroll saw. There was nothing I could do, and I mean nothing that didn't worsen the pain. I worked with wood for years before getting injured, but had never heard of a scroll saw. Surprisingly the scroll saw cutting didn't cause me more pain, it actually took my mind off of the pain because of concentrating on the pattern I was cutting. Once I realized that I was cutting without as much pain as I normally was, I got into scrolling like crazy. I read everything I could about the hobby, and I talked to people like Mike Moorland of Flying Dutchman fame. He taught me a lot, we talked once or twice each week, sometimes we talked for over an hour. I miss Mike, he was a great mentor who taught me mos of what I know about scrolling. He even allowed me to sell Flying Dutchman blades to Canadian buyers, I still have over two thousand dollars worth of blades I bought from him at wholesale prices. I will never have to purchase another scroll saw blade for as long as I live, I have lots of blades I didn't sell. I am no longer interested in selling any blades, I will use most of them over time. And seeing as how I can no longer buy blades at the wholesale price, I decided to keep them for my own use. Len

Can someone explain the problematic motors to me? What was the problem? On what Hawks were they used?

Sounds like a great idea, Travis! those of you that put pictures up, excellent pictures! Remember, to you it may look like a mess, but any shop is a blessing for your hobby. It's your escape from the rest of the world for the few hours you get to spend in it. You know where things are, keep on keepin' on! I'll try & get pictures of my shop on. I've got 400 sq. ft. of work space that has my equipment "strategically" placed for navigation. And at the moment, it looks like a tornado hit it bcause I ain't been in it for nearly 4 months to shine up from a couple projects I'm workin' on. Good Idea! I'm anxious to see more shops!:):)

Nice looking shop areas guys. Just remember, any shop space is good shop space. But I really wanted to tell Les that I really like that purple chair! Would look great in front of my purple excalibur. I will try to get a pic or two over the next day or two perhaps.

When I paint i like to apply a coat of white tinted shellac, followed by rattle can paint or brushed acrylic, and I may or may not add a top coat of lacquer. Here's a painted game. Tinted shellac is a great primer for painting. This does have a lacquer top coat. I posted this last year but made another for a non-profit I do volunteer work for. In this version I scrolled the name at the top of the box.

Did you measure and cut the short point if the miter to the same dimension as the plywood? You have to account for the depth of the "rabbet" when measuring the frame stock. In other words, if your piece sets 1/2" inside the frame on each side, then you need to subtract 1" from the length of the frame, at the short points of the miter. Turn the piece and frame sections upside down on your bench and look at it from the backside. Note where the corners of the scrolled piece are, relative to the inside and outside dimensions of the frame. Hope I explained this clearly enough.

Dad just moved into an assisted living complex here in Grande Prairie, so I made this for him. Thanks to Kevin for telling me where to find the pattern (here in the SSV library). I modified it by just doing the lettering. Dad loved it more this way than with the fancy stuff on the sides. Jeff

Cutting/Serving Boards Caribbean Rosewood. Since I am close to Music City... I thought why not. The wood was fairly expensive, so just to break even, I would have to charge 10 dollars per board. They are 10 x 7" . Do you think they would sell at a craft show?

I'm experimenting with some new projects to make for this coming Christmas Season. One of these is the mailbox attached. The pattern is a slightly modified version of one by Dianne Thompson. I made a few small changes, but it's mostly the same as her's.. It is about 3 1/4" tall and was all cut from one piece of wood, but the flag and shaft were cut out separately from the same piece of wood and then attached with a small spot of glue. No other glue joints exist in it. The original pattern has the flag sticking out of the top center of the mailbox, which allows it to be cut as all as one piece., but it just didn't look right to me there This mailbox was cut from poplar, but I have made a few others from pine. The red flag and the leaf color was done with marking pens. I'll be trying to find a better way on future mailboxes. I used a Flying Dutchman #1R blade for this. I'm also trying different cut sequences and blades, hoping to be able to cut it faster and easier in the future. It took about 50 minutes to cut this one. Line following accuracy is absolutely necessary for this to look good. Making these is quite challenging. Charley

Welcome back Luis....very nice work as usual cutting board looks great

Nice work all around. I did that light house but mine is not framed. I cut it in thick enough wood that it will "stand" so it stands with no frame.

Those turned out great !...Nice scrolling !

I agree with Kev. Based on what Bushton told me, it is actually the "computer speed control" that goes bad and burns out the motor. As the control goes bad, the motor gets too much current (and runs really fast as a symptom) and the excess current kills the motor. Based on their statements, I think the control COULD be repaired. Since these were made in the 80' and 90's "computer control" is not what most would call a computer today. It is likely NOT a processor chip, but a bunch of discrete components. Motor control circuits are not that complex and should be repairable by a skill electronic technician. In this day and age good like finding one of those.

Concentrate on making the corners align and fit. In the last picture you posted above, if you move the piece not held by the clamp down slightly to make it align with the bottom frame piece, it will look perfect. If the frame is slightly larger than the piece, that is not a problem. In fact, I usually shoot for that. You can secure the piece in the frame any number of ways. If you make it a slightly large, you have the luxury of having a little room to trim and tweak the joints, if necessary to get them to fit perfectly.

I have been try to contact Bushton for two day. No reply to several emails and I always get a busy signal when I call. Planting time in Kansas??

Kevin, you must have gotten a messed up screw, my EX has the swivel tips. Len

I do the same as JTTHECLOCKMAN, I would never use a spiral blade to cut veining work. The veining I cut is very narrow work, IMO it requires a flt blade for it to look the way it should. Len

Nice to see your shop. I love the amount of room you have. Appears you have things well arranged with things on wheels.

kevin is right. If you can get your hands on it to have a closer look see, check the wedge at back of the top arm. If it shows any wear, metal grindings, etc., & no lube such as graphite, it has some hours of use. There is more to just replacin' the wedge if it's bad enough. The bottom arm may have to come apart & sent to Bushton for repair. That wedge, the bearings, & the motor & controller are the main parts to look at. Your blade tension at the nose of the top arm can be adjusted to snap over & hold tension on the blade. Hopefully it has the manual with it. All & All, $450 isn't a bad price. I've seen them higher & wore out. Just be cautious. And call Bushton & ask questions.

Better than 15 yrs. cutting and have never posted anything! but I cut this for my son and I kinda like it!!!

Showed Dad a pic of this pattern and he rattled off what year the truck was and how the scene reminded him of growing up. It is his birthday on the 20th of this month, so decided to cut it for him. Alex Fox pattern, stack cut three 1/8th BB ply, 11 X 14 using mainly #3 Sawbird ultra reverse blades. Jeff

Great clean cutting! And nice choose of frame

That's him in his ruggedness.Very nicely cut!

Figured it was time to do some small signs again. Always like to have a few of these around for laughs and smiles. Hope you enjoy them. jim

Cut from Red Oak.

very nice

I cut a piece this morning. It had more fine fretwork than anything I've done to date My problem or questions I have is - when I was cutting, some of the cuts were very close together (about or less than a 1/16") and as I was cutting the piece around the cut was bouncing/lifting slightly. I had to hold my finger on the small cut outs because I was afraid it would break. I read an article that said leave the cuts in place and tape them to give the whole piece more stability - problem was as I cut them out, they would come out of the cut - I am not using a zero clearance top and some of the very small cuts would drop - those I'm sure with a zero clearance I can keep from dropping. However, the ones that come out do you put them back in and tape them or leave them out? I cut this very slowly as well - here is the cut 2 stack 1/8" BB ply Thanks as always in advance

Looks just like a photo, oh I know it is a photo, you know what I mean...........Great work. Marg

I use a small drill bit and put the hole in the middle somewhere. Then as I cut I feather out to narrow on the ends. This hides the entry hole pretty well.

3d cut on scroll saw and a drilled out wheel for the halo. I used a beefed up ornament pattern to make this durable enough for a toy. 5" tall

Last fall I mentioned about taking several video clips of my brothers sawmill operation.. Well got busy with orders and whatnot and never did do anything with the videos.. actually forgot until I was going through images etc on my phone.. For some reason I was having trouble getting this uploaded to my youtube channel ( will keep working at it ) so in the meantime you can find the video clip on my instagram or facebook page.. Probably more of you on FB than instagram so i'll post a link to my FB page.. if you're on instagram just search it for KevsKrafts.. should bring up my IG page.. I'll post more clips of other areas of the sawmill business later but anyway... enjoy this small clip... https://www.facebook.com/KevsKrafts/ Oh, a lot of the clips didn't turn out real great ( poor lighting and cheap phone camera ).. was hoping to go today to take some more clips but supposed to be cloudy and maybe rainy today.. so maybe another day I'll try to get some "good" footage.. Edit: Maybe i can link it into this post from FB.. Not sure if you can view it without being on FB or not?

Here is another piece for Easter, Steve Good pattern

Travis, you work on coming up with new ideas and ways to keep things most interesting here in The Village, so I am not going to pass up the opportunity to enter the piece I made for my wife as an Easter piece. I posted it when I finished it but this is my entry in support of your fun efforts for us. We should support the things you are doing for us. That being said, my thank you is my entry. Dick heppnerguy

bunny and egg. cherry wood. bunny sprayed with copper spray shown in bragging rights.

I have never used spirals. It took a while to master the acute angle turns and I burned through a lot of practice patterns achieving it. Once you have, it is worth it. GPScroller's piece is even more challenging than this one. His letters are even smaller and a greater number of them. I look at his piece and shudder. I guarantee the last line of his work was the hardest to cut. I count 14 risky drop-outs that could have turned his piece into kindling. Awesome.

Here's one for you. It'd be the perfect day to choc coat a raw egg, or boiled, and wrap it as the real deal. You don't get this chance very often. You know you want to do it now that you've read this. It's stuck in your mind and you can see the funny side to it. Go on, be daring, do it.