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But I helped! My friend, Ron Smith, is a very good segmented bowl maker/turner. A while back he asked if I would help him make a bowl that he was wanting to do. He brought me some wood and silhouette patterns for animals he wanted to use on the bowl and wanted to see if I thought I could cut them. The hardest part of cutting them was having him watch me the would time. But we had a great time in the shop and he got what he wanted. He just sent me these pictures of his finished product.

Managed a few bits n bobs in between having to sort garden out etc to keep the other half happy . Some are Steve good patterns all cut with found materials saved from land fill NOTE TO ANYONE MAKING THIS DO NOT CUT THE DOWEL AS PER PLANS THEY STATE CUT IT AT 2.5" THERE IS WAY TOO MUCH PLAY AND I HAVE SINCE ADDED A PIN EITHER SIDE OF HAMMER TO STOP IT MOVING ABOUT THE DOWEL SO MUCH MY SECOND ONE I DITCHED THE INSTRUCTIONS HELD THE 3 PIECES TOGETHER AS IN BRACKETS AND HAMMER HANDLE AND ADDED 5MM AND CUT THE DOWEL AT THAT LENGTH IT WORKS MUCH BETTER Workshop Door Knocker.mp4

Was a Hoot making this pattern and cutting it... Also picture of the moose clock that I was asking about in the general forum about square or round backer... I choose round as you can see..

I had someone who saw me at an event contact me and ask me if I could put anything they want in the animals and I said "sure"... I've done names, I do beach towns, etc. Well she has 2 beach homes and sometimes like boats, folks name their beach houses. So she asked for FLIGHTED DESIRE and LUMINOUS OASIS in a couple of beach critters. Then she mentioned that she's a realtor and likes to give her clients a gift when they're closing on a new home and asked for one that says RUPP FAMILY. All done as non-puzzle and I'll glue the animals to the bases once they dry. At first I didn't really enjoy making non-puzzles, but they're starting to grow on me as I cut some now and again.

I cut this pattern from Steve Good from 1/2" oak with a FD #5 Ultra Reverse blade.

Made just Because; I wanted too. Rescued cedar and some wood burning. Pattern by T & E design again.

pen and card holder for a customer offices, quite interesting project, a little bit inlay done as well. I am happy with results, what do you think?

I'm taking advantage of the great economy and started a "new" part time job this week,. Going to save for my new planer I've not been in the shop much at all lately - between repairing/repainting our rentals (some tenants are just animals sheesh!) and this new job, I can barely get enough breathing time. I've worked for 40 years avoiding manual labor, and now I'm a part time "gofer" for a bunch of millennial's LOL - but they're a decent couple of kids and it's all good. I'll check in when I can, and still read and comment on posts as I can. Also, it's starting to get very hot and humid here so my shop time will be very limited anyway for most of the summer Thanks for reading and can't wait to see what you all create!

Best of luck to both of you. I recall having to find creative ways to generate extra income. Now, I'm retired and the only way is to do the handyman stuff around our park. That does keep me in spending money. Of course, I have to split it with my partner. She keeps a tidy house for me so I have to "pay" her something. Geesh! R

I was wondering where your posts got to!!! Miss seeing your work!! I might have to get a part time job also.....just to buy more toys!! My shop is in the basement so it's real cool in the summer and warm in the winter.... Good luck in your new job!!

I thought the lower clamps you made ready took care of the hassle that the Hawk has for the lower end blade holder. You are one great problem solver when it comes to the Hawk. I hope you told them how to improve this item, as it would sure help others that will experience the some problem and are not connected with The Village so they too can profit from you wisdom Dick heppnerguy

That is a great answer. I think you nailed it Dick heppnerguy

Thx Lew, I'd give a finger or two to have a basement LOL I haven't seen a basement in over 40 years (California has none, neither does Florida)!

Very nice looking projects there Frank! And saving wood from the tip as well! Good on you! Thank you for the photo's, Bob

Nicely done Scott. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

All very nicely done Frank. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

I think the problem is that the curve of the trunnion doesn't match the curve of the base. You say that the movement is in the back, bit I can see it in the front. That 1mm movement at the blade translates to an even smaller movement at the base and it's hard for the camera to pick it up.

And by the way, thank you for throwing ideas my way. I really do appreciate it.

Well, unfortunately that is not the case. I know it's hard to see in the video, but there is definitely movement at the front of the table. You can see it at the end of the video when comparing the trunnion to the cast base (above the right 20 degree marker) I know it is almost imperceptible, but it doesn't take much. I'll try removing the table and see what happens. I don't know if I will be able to get enough leverage to movie it though.

It definitely isn't bottoming out. I can take the table and trunnion off and the knob can still thread all the way into the base. I can make it VERY TIGHT. the bolt is not moving. Talked to Delta this morning. Didn't get very far with the technician and he suggested I take it to the nearest repair facility. It's over an hour from my house. Two round trips there is not an option when I could just return the saw. I would rather fix it, but I have my limits. (I didn't tell him any of this) He called back a few minutes later and said he had talked to a few people and they are unaware of the problem, but it is either an issue with the trunnion, or the cast base. They are sending out a trunnion to see if that solves the issue. Here's a short video of the issue that I made.

Don't forget Resources. Its that section that Travis put together, full off instruction videos, tips, tricks, etc. Its at the top of this page, in the middle. Bob

Very nicely done Steve. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

That really turned out beautiful, Steve.

I am working on a project of 1/8" baltic birch with 1/8" backer and mounting in picture frame. I got my fretwork done...........made a backer just a bit bigger......painted it...........used MMM spray glue on the back of the fretwork and applied it to the backer. Worked out great for me.

Looks great thanks for sharing

Some time ago I posted under Pattern Help a request for help creating a pattern for a wedding gift. I did get a couple of great suggestions but decided I'd just give it a go on my own and see what happened. Check the pic and see where I'm at. (All the cuttings in the pic are 1/8" BB pw.) I took a couple of photos at the wedding and from those made a pattern and cut the silhouettes. The Infinity love symbol was on Pineterest. I snipped a copy and enlarged it and cut from that. Then over at DaFonts made the date (this is my 3rd time cutting the date - way too difficult for this OF). I found this background at JoAnnes and the color works well with their wedding because all the men wore red ties and there were loads of red flowers. So my questions are: 1) What color should the cuttings be? I'm leaning to black or natural, but open to your great ideas. 2) There's a small piece of wood in the pic I was thinking of making the frame from, once again - color? I was thinking I'd just BLO it and add a topcoat. The piece in the pic has some naptha on it that sort of mimics BLO, but flashes off after a few minutes. But I'd be happy to paint it any color that works. 3) I really wanted to make a frame that was an ellipse, but at this point that seems like a lot of work and I've never been good at back routing profiles so I'm leaning towards a boring rectangular frame. So go ahead a offer up your suggestions. Thanks for looking!

Smart I like idea and work done

Thanks Luis, if your ever back, let me know. Jeff

Super design and cutting Peter.

A big welcome from my side Dick

I like white on red. Black would be too dark if you ask me. What you have there now looks great.

Thanks, I can say with certainty that this is definitely not the last my bowl

I cut these out of Red Oak. They have non-mar cushions under base. Sue Mey Patterns.

Many if not all of the old scroll saws used a spring to tension and pull the blade up, and a reciprocating mechanism to pull the blade down. If the blade jams in the work, the spring isn't sufficient to pull the blade back up. The reciprocating mechanism continues to push the blade up anyway, and buckles the blade, resulting in blade breakage. The newer style scroll saws have two powered arms, one moving each end of the blade, that work together to both pull and push the blade together, reducing the tendency of the blade to bend or buckle. There is also a blade tension adjustment that truly maintains a constant tension of the blade. This type of scroll saw was a total game changer over the old spring return type scroll saws. You can use much smaller blades with these newer saws and achieve long blade life with very little blade breakage. Charley

Great discovery. That's what makes hobbies more interesting, exploring and improving not only your skill and conform but you equipment also.

A big WELCOME from me. Don't know that saw but sounds like to much tension or pushing to hard or wrong blade for the job ie: thickness of wood . Roly

Welcome to the Village! Chances are you do not have enough tension on the blade. Blades need to have a high tension on them or they will flex when cutting. When they flex they will break. Your saw should have a way to tension the blade, usually with a knob or lever. If not, it will make a nice boat anchor. Can you post a picture of your saw or maybe a model number?

Welcome to the forum Mike. I hope you stay a while. I don't think you will find a better bunch of folks. I hope you like it here.