Leaderboard

A Mike Williams pattern. Good thing I stack cut three 11 X 14 in 1/8th BB ply, all three of them are spoken for already. The frame I salvaged from the landfill where I work, knew it would come in handy some day and it just seems to suit this project. Jeff

I don't know who made this pattern but my cowboy hat is off to him/her. Getting this cool of an image with only 12 holes is impressive. I cut this out out 3/4 Black Walnut with a rough cut BW backer. It's about 5" X 7". Gonna get me a cowboy wall in my shop!

Well, I finally finished the first walnut motorcycle racer. Man that walnut really tests my patience. Hopefully the next one will go smoother. The inside cuts were with a FDUR #1 blade, the outside cuts were with a FDUR #3 blade and then the veining is with a FDUR #5 blade. All in all I'm pretty happy with it. I'm guessing the more of these I cut in walnut, the more comfortable I will get. Oh and these are cut out of 4/1 Walnut and I will be putting a clear coat on this and will mount it on a 3/4" piece of oak with a clear coat on it as well. Sorry I haven't been on very much, but this and work has been keeping me pretty busy. Thanks for looking and I'm open to all the suggestions I can get. Thank you Jim

I like the tones in this ring

This is a nice wood for rings, however I think it would be best to use this as an inlay with a dark wood

I finally was able to get my Eiffel Tower all put together. This a great pattern that is described as an advanced pattern by the pattern maker. I found I was able to cut it pretty well but I had some stumbling areas where my expertise is not up to the challenge. The joining corners are all cut to 45 degree angles and I found that to be a real challenge to my cutting skills. It is not perfect but it is the best I knew how to do. I am 70 percent happy with this project, as I really like the subject matter a lot. As far as my assembly skills go, I ended up being 30 unhappy with that part. I have always struggled in assembly and finish work. I pushed my envelop with this piece because I feel that if I do not continue to strive to do harder pieces, I will not grow. This has been a good year for me with my cutting skills, due to getting to know Scrappile (Paul), and seeing his really unusually great craftsmanship and the inspiration to do better myself. I have a long way to go to become a good scroller but I am slowly climbing the ladder in that direction, I feel. I do not believe I will probably ever achieve the skill level of so many of the scrollers here in The Village but I do know I will be continually encourage by seeing the posts they make. I also know that I am always learning as I go along and that was one of the rewards of the Eiffel Tower shown here, I did learn several things from making it and some day I may attempt it again. I think next time I cut one I will go to Paul's house and get some instruction in that area and some day...….. who knows......even I might be able to figure out how to do a better job assembling my work.

As you can read here many people will have different opinions on things. There are lots of good folks here and from all different skill levels. For you to say your a bother? Everyone here started at the beginning and learned from block one. There will be no exceptions and this applies to most things in life. No need to feel bad about asking questions or for help. Blade speed will effect many things. I'm just happy your learning and growing. And don't forget to have fun a long the way

Birch plywood 4mm, stain, glossy varnish Scroll saw Jet Jss-16, flat blades NIQUA Weiss #1 Pattern from "Tecnica del' intarsio" magazine

Trouble identifying this wood speices, I was inspired to make bentwood rings again

Completed this Leopard Portrait 11x14 done on 1/8" BB with Solid Oak frame, used FD 2/0 blade with Felt Backer, Pattern is from Steve Good. edward

Tried a different type of finish here, not a fan of the finish

Hi, Ray, You definitely are not a bother. Some of us may learn from your questions and others may be able to offer helpful suggestions. Pretty much a win win situation. Glad you got your problem worked out. God Bless! Spirithorse

Remember Those Who Gave All! Pattern can be purchased at www.WoodcraftByScott.com

Having a seamstress for a Mother and a toolmaker for a Father, did not hurt my scrolling comfort levels. Kevin "I'm thinking the best scrolling expert level i'll achieve in my lifetime will be expert at producing ornamental firewood.. " made me laugh.

I've been sawing for 12 years now and seriously scrolling for about 5 + or - years.. with production cutting.. I'm turning 50 years old in November.. I'm thinking the best scrolling expert level i'll achieve in my lifetime will be expert at producing ornamental firewood..

Ah yes Brad, that CW-40 was a great learning saw for me as well. It really cut beautifully for less then $200. It had one quirk though. About every two or three months, it just wouldn't turn on. I'd do everything to it, but just wouldn't turn on. Then, two hours later or the next morning when I was going to toss into the can, it magically would start cutting like a banshee again. Did sell it though because I needed the room. But great memories and it cut some beautiful projects. Blake

I can see why they are spoken for. Really looks nice and the grain in that BB is really nice. You are right, that is a good frame for it.

Looks like Clint to me !...Nice work !

Yep, I sold my 216VS Hawk for $150. I placed the ad on craig's list Friday night and got a call Saturday morning. Young fellow all excited to buy it. I assumed he was a newbie being excited for an old 16". I got out some helpful literature, a blade chart and some blades. I was shocked when he came Sunday afternoon. This guy has eight saws and has been scrolling for quire a while. Asked why he wanted this one. Said he had not seen a 16" Hawk before and wanted for his collection. Spent entire Sunday afternoon talking scroll saws. He brought over a three foot hammer head shark cut from 1" MFD. It is segmented and all segments can be disassembled. Never saw anything like it. Should have snapped a photo but forgot. Encouraged him to join the Village. Hope he does. He's made some short you tube videos under "Scroller Nation.

I saw the post with the link for the pattern the other day and I liked it so much I jumped on it. I used 1/4" Oak and finished it with Tung oil. I'm not sure what I'll do with it. The lighting was different in the pictures-

I finally got it done. I hope my friend likes it. I did the pattern. And had help with the outside boarder. . Thanks everyone for all the help not sure i will design another one. Will leave it to the professionals. Thanks for looking Mimi

Wow Dick............that would definitely be challenging. I can't even imagine how hard it would be to get all the pieces to fit good. Nice job!

I have embarked upon my project basket that I showed you all a couple of weeks back. It is made up of 7 layers of poplar and a top and bottom of oak. All are 1/4" thickness. I sanded all pieces first and then applied the shelf paper that everybody is using now. Then, I applied 3M 77 to the pattern paper and then the paper to the shelf liner. All good to go. I started cutting with a Pegas #3 MGR blade. I did one piece of poplar with that. Then for the second piece of poplar, I tried a FD #3UR. Both seem to cut just fine. My problem is, the kerf is very fine and the blades are not clearing the sawdust/paper residue. The little blower nozzle and the vacuum inlet aren't clearing the kerf. It's almost like I'm cutting wet wood but I don't feel that it is even damp. So, my question is, is this normal or should I go to a larger blade like a #5. Is the reverse cut doing it? I'm new enough at this that I don't know just what to do. I'm getting a very nice cute with #3 and there will be little to no sanding required. I'd sure appreciate any advice from you more experienced folks. Nut Basket.pdf

Thanks to all of you for your kind comments and for all the help and advice. This is truly a unique place. I feel like I'm at the Boys & Girls Club or the local Senior Center. Lot's of fun, comeraderie and learning going on. R

Great cut. Roly

I would not stain that beautiful Walnut! Are you going to use Walnut for the base too? If so, I would glue them together first, then soak in a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wipe off the excess, then let dry for 24-48 hours. Then you can apply what ever topcoat you want. That Walnut will look so great with oil rather than stain!

I agree, where possible glue bare wood together.

Quality piece Jeff and great save on the frame as well

Great job I also cut this one a while back and for the amount of holes it is a great pattern

Excellent cutting Jeff and the frame looks as if it was made for this piece. Well done. Marg

Great cutting!! Excellent!

Nice work thanks for sharing

Nice cutting Charlie thanks for sharing

Well done. Jeff

great job

Yes very well done on both.

Very cool. Great pattern and cut. Rob

Very nice, and thx for your thoughtfulness of all our active and veteran military, I know I appreciate everything done for my fellow veterans, Rj

Some of the stuff I gave away the first Christmas I was scrolling HAD to be hideous in retrospect. I have grown in my abilities and still challenge myself regularly, but there is no way I would ever consider myself a "master"--competent, maybe. I have just practiced my eye/hand coordination to the point where I am able to do some justice to the designs that so many great artists have toiled over.

I have used the FD Penguin Silver Reverse for about four years. Specifically the # 1 for my fretwork. I also use the # 5. These are my favorite blades although I do use a few Pegas MG # 3 and # 5. I still always go back to the FD. Just my personal preference. Happy Scrolling grizz

Bill is correct there are so many opinions expressed on forums that new people can become confused especially about blades. I recommend finding a blade chart and learning what the Mfr. recommends for different uses. The Olson one is one of the best as it gives most blade configurations and sizes with recommended uses. This provides a starting point. Determine what type projects interest you then what material check the chart for a recommended style and size then try a dozen maybe a different mfr ( a size 5 will be very close to a size 5 by a different mfr.) Getting into tooth count, blade thickness, tooth configuration can confuse me and I have 20 years experience. Thin wood use smaller blades thick wood use larger blades Metal use metal cutting blades. I have my favorite blades for cutting jigsaw puzzles ( FD Puzzle) Portraits ( FD new spiral and #1 Pegas mg) other than that wood, details and what I have determines. Fredfret

You did it all, got it done and it looks great. You should be proud.

He was one heck of a piano player. Looks great!!

nice job

Thanks to all who have replied. The blade was not in upside down for sure. I tried a couple of different blades. I had the best luck with a non reverse blade. I think what the problem is is the adhesive from the layer of shelf liner and spray adhesive being too much for the tiny blades to clear. Once I got up to a #5 XL blade, the problem worked itself out almost completely. I was also trying to run the saw too slow as I'm still learning how to control the cutting. I'm getting better though. Thanks again, sorry to be a bother. Ray

I agree with Rockytime Les that a skip tooth blade is all that is needed. God Bless! Spirithorse

Ok, update. I tried using a non- reverse blade and that has helped a lot. I also stepped up a size to a 5 XL from FD. Seems to be better. R

I too believe the question was addressed at the titles awarded here in The Village above everyone's avatar. like Newbie, Zen scroller, master scroller. obsessed scroller. and of course, AMAZINGSCROLLER which belongs to Kevin for his unheard of 27,6000 plus posts. That being said, I really enjoyed reading all the responses to the question. Then of course, I could be off on how i interrupted the question too. Dick heppnerguy