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Made this today for my daughter and son-in-law. I saw a paper cut out of it on line and tweaked it to look like them. Backed it with live edge Black Walnut.

I have not cut any projects that are hard sort of speak. Have cut projects that are much more time consuming but basically it still cutting. Now I have cut 2 projects that were very hard mentally and had a very hard time getting through because of the nature of what they represented. I posted this before here but is a cross I cut for my Dad's grave that stood till we were able to get a permanent grave stone. Because of the time of the year it stood for almost a year but was comforting for the family when they visited his grave site. The second was a cross I had made for my Mom and when she passed I placed it in with her when she went to her eternal home. I knew when I cut that piece that was the intention all along. 2 of the most difficult pieces I ever cut and probably ever will. I know this is not what the intent of this thread is but just hit me as I looked back.

I want to thank the following designers for their work on coming up with the font and design that I had requested back on the 25 of May. However and I can't believe that after the customer did not like the one that my wife had done, she decided that that would be the one to use even though she seen the 3 designs from Bobscroll, Jollyred, and Birchbark! It still brothers me that this happens every once in awhile and I spent 25 years in retail grocery with the public! Anyway this is the plaque that we came up with and I hope the customer likes this finished product! Ervin

Les I own 2 hawks and in my opinion there is no way you could ever bend a blade from tightening too much with a RBI blade holder. Can not be done. If the setscrew was too far in from vibration then the blade would have a dimple in it and the blade would not be centered in the clamp and traveling true up and down. So you need to check that adjustment from time to time. Sometimes it is harder to explain than what it is but will try. I am going to believe you have a quick release on the top arm. When you pull that arm down, the top of the blade should fall nicely into that blade holder with the top of the blade hitting the bottom of the rod that is just above the thumbscrew. The back of the blade should lay flat against the back of the clamp (thus the reason you can not ever bend a blade like that with those clamps) While holding that there tighten the thumbscrew. It is a dance that becomes so second nature and is so easy to do. Now to the reason possibly you are bending is because when you place the blade in the holder it is rocking backwards and the back of the blade does not sit flat against the blade holder. Or you are pulling it too far forward when you insert the blade. In other words the holder is placing the blade on an angle that is not straight up and down and when it starts to cut it now moves back into the straight up and down position thus bending the blade which would explain how or why that far down on the blade it is bending. You need to keep that holder pretty close to straight up and down when inserting blade. Second thing or suggestion is you are leaving too much blade stick up into the clamp and it is past that roller bearing on top of the thumbscrew. That bearing is the highest your blade can go or should go. If you go in front of that and then push the blade with force to get back to tighten the thumbscrew you now bent the top of the blade as you shown. Now if this stuff is just happening you got out of your routine and or there is something else going on. Make sure both clamps pivot freely when a blade is installed so they can rock with the motion of the arms going up and down. Yes it is a good idea to keep the thumbscrew and setscrew cleaned and roughed up abit. I always clean the ends of the blades on both sides with sandpaper before using. Takes off the oil that comes on blades from manufacturing and gives a little tooth so that the thumbscrew does not slip when tightened. Then I do not have to crank so hard on it. If none of this works then report back and we try something else.

I have been away from the Village and out of my shop for a while. This is cut into 1/8" baltic birch plywood. It is 16" x 20" not including the frame, the frame is made from walnut. I have just under 12 hours of cutting time. The pattern is by Charles Dearing.

I wanted to make this and did!

So, what is the most difficult scroll saw project you have done? These were tough for me because of their size, 40”x22”, and I had to cut the mirrors myself, which I wasn’t experienced in.

They are not the same size from my DeWalt/Excalibur to either of my Hawks. Randy (Hotshot) made some or had some made so he could put the inserts into the end of the Hawk thumb screws. Personally, I’ve never had an issue with the plain ends of the Hawk thumb screws.

If it is a 60mm insert it fits in a 55mm hole or 2-1/8" If it is a 55mm insert then it fits in a 50mm hole or 2" hole

Does the balde holder have a set screw for keeping the blade centered in the holder? If it does it may have worked itself out a little from the vibration of the saw. So when you tighten the thumb screw you are actually bending the top of the blade because it is pushing the blade into the hole where the set screw is supposed to be.

Girl at the doctor would like her kids names.

Another one for the collection!!

Jan put her quilting aside temporarily to fulfill some requests. Paul (Scrappile) asked to see the Live, Laugh, Love painted. Russell (Birchbark) and Marg (Wombatie) wanted to see Morning Coffee painted. County scene by Alex Fox was a surprise for me. Enjoy. Jeff and Jan

Marine and Navy Desk Signs.

Hi Hawk owners. I'm cutting a portrait from 1/8" BB using a #1 FD Polar blade. Cutting is going well, however, the blade bends at the top blade holder. The blade is placed to the top of the holder and the thumb screw is t9ghtened. I do tighten quite strongly as the tension is quite high. Backing off the tension allows the blade to wander so I cant do that. After tightening the blade a half dozen times the blade takes a forward bend making it difficult to insert into the top holder properly. Not sure if I am tightening the blade too much or what. The bend is forward and cannot be bent back easily without breaking. Just wondering if any Hawk owners or anyone else has had this problem. One of the other saw makers have a clamp screw with a tip that rotates but don"t know the thread size but the Hawk size is 10-32.

I'm patting myself on the back for gifting myself an LED magnifying lamp for my scroll saw. Excellent idea Travis. I should have it Wednesday.

You are exactly right! What was I thinking? Apparently not.

Thanks for the information. JT introduced me to the problem and the problem is me. Everything is now copacetic. I have no problem with my thumb screw I just think a rotating tip seems like a good idea. Some good ideas are not necessary but still are very cool. I'd like to get one just to see if I could make one just for the fun of it.

Hi John, I sent a response from my cell phone last night. Don't understand what happened to it. However, you are exactly correct. I had not been careful placing the blade in the top holder. With larger blades I do not even think about it but #1 and smaller it is pretty important as they take a bend easily. I've been scrolling this afternoon and everything is working nicely. Many thanks to you for your response and advice which is excellent.

Great job!! Love the finish on the bikers!

very nice

Found this pattern made by Phantom Scroller and was thinking there needs to be some bridges in the O's and R's. But not sure if I am just not seeing right (happened before lol) Going to make this for my barber.

Looks great thanks for sharing

That is a terrific piece, I love it. Great work Charlie. Marg

'k, now, THAT is awesome!

That came out fantastic. They should really love that. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

The reason your blade is bending at the top Rocky, is from over tightening. If you're having to tighten your blade that tight in order to keep it in the blade holders, spin out your thumb screw & have a look see at the end of if it. I'm bettin' you'll find it shiny & smooth;) take it & run it across a piece of 100 grit sandpaper a few times & you'll get your grip back. Ya may have to adjust your hex screw in the blade holder just a little to the inside. Ya might try backin' your tension off just a little, too. If your blade makes a high pitched ping when you tension it, that's plenty. The tighter the tension, the more pull it puts on your blade. In turn, is tougher to keep in your blade holder. And puts extra wear & tear on the wedge & threads at the back of the saw. Remember, the smaller the blade the more tension. The larger the blade the less tension. And in bb, ya might try usin' a piece of a candle, or soap on the blade for a little lube.

I don't have a Hawk and i am not familiar with them but it looks as though the blade the blade is hitting something on the up stroke. Is there an obstruction there? Dick aka spotsdad

55mm = 2.165354"

25.4Mmm = 1" do the math .

So I’m not the only one that forgets to tension the blade huh lol

It is on Hwy 85 on the way to Greeley. He has nervous energy and nothing else to do.

55 mm equals 2 11/64 inches . Here a place to calculate these types of measurements too. https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/length/mm-to-inch.html

On my Hegner I use Hawes oil on the two pivot points. Great stuff but hard to find. I used to sell it off my tool truck and I had a couple of the little 4 oz. sample bottles left. They have lasted me many years. The best penetrating oil I have ever found. R

Here's a conversion Chart. https://www.metric-conversions.org/length/millimeters-to-inches-table.htm

Are you sure they are sealed? I know you have a newer BM series..so it would be different than my old saws.. but mine doesn't have sealed bearings in it.. and neither did Randy's ( Hotshot ) BM series he bought.. had caged or shielded bearings.. My newer of the old saws had the same bearings as Randy's BM series.. I need to get that graphite stuff.. I've read a lot of good about it recently..

Rockytime, I thought the guy that bought you Hawk a while back was going to teach you how to polish your table top. I've been kinda watching posts to read if that happen or not. I'm curious how he does it. I have always read that silicone is not good... do not know from experience though.

You guys have some great talent, especially Jan on her painting. Does she give lessons.

Well it's been awhile since I posted anything,still having blasted neck problems,I did get Willie,(Steve Good Pattern) Day of The Dead Skull.my pattern.and a Native American skull.I don't know who made this one I have had it for awhile.and it took me a couple of days to cut it out.As all ways I Cherish my Fellow Villagers comments.

My wife Connie and I celebrated our 35th anniversary May 28th. I finished this today. We're big fans of the show, "This Is Us".

Well I guess I have been lucky so far,I have been scrolling fro 19 yrs and have never had to use anything to make my tables any different than they are.They work fine for me.

Although silicone is a great lubricant I stay away from it with contact with wood. Cause too many issues when finishing. I use a good quality paste wax easy to apply and clean up.

My wife made this new pattern for me to cut along with three other new ones in the later times to cut and finish .Razorback and the words are cut out of 1" Maple and the base is 3/4" Maple . Painted and clear gloss coated . Any comments are welcomed .......

Remember Those Who Gave All!

First one is from a pattern by Sam Custodio and is I think native New Zealand Matai. Then one from our very own Bobscroll but no idea what the timber is And finally one that I don't remember where I got the pattern but in native New Zealand Rimu. All timber is reclaimed from the side panels of old drawer boxes and finished with 50/50 BLO. Thanks for looking, Rob

I'm not sure how to word this. But this picture shows the Racer on top of the base I cut out. I'm now waiting for the glue to dry. Also is a sacrificial piece of oak (the base) and walnut (the racer) with one coat of clear coat on it. I also did a little round over cut on the top of the base to make it look a little nicer. Thanks for taking time to look. I promise the next post will be of it all finished. So it might be a couple of days before I'm posting anything else pertaining to this. Thanks Jim

Managed a few bits n bobs in between having to sort garden out etc to keep the other half happy . Some are Steve good patterns all cut with found materials saved from land fill NOTE TO ANYONE MAKING THIS DO NOT CUT THE DOWEL AS PER PLANS THEY STATE CUT IT AT 2.5" THERE IS WAY TOO MUCH PLAY AND I HAVE SINCE ADDED A PIN EITHER SIDE OF HAMMER TO STOP IT MOVING ABOUT THE DOWEL SO MUCH MY SECOND ONE I DITCHED THE INSTRUCTIONS HELD THE 3 PIECES TOGETHER AS IN BRACKETS AND HAMMER HANDLE AND ADDED 5MM AND CUT THE DOWEL AT THAT LENGTH IT WORKS MUCH BETTER Workshop Door Knocker.mp4

I cut this pattern from Steve Good from 1/2" oak with a FD #5 Ultra Reverse blade.

Steve good pattern, a lot more work to this than it looked like.well worth the effort though. Made it for my wife for mother’s day. This was a trial, gonna try making larger one. Maple, cherry, oak ( or perhaps another speices just like oak but darker) and Santos’s mahogany dolphin drawer pulls. Yet to put in drawer felt

Impossible Golf Ball In A Cage-A Great Novelty That Will Surprise Everyone Who Sees It. Everyone Will Want To Know How Ball Got Into Cage