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Another one for the collection!!

I'm back home for a couple of weeks ("vacation" this week, working out of an office in the area next week, then traveling to Chicago the week after), so I was able to get out in the garage and fire up the ole scrollsaw again! Felt good, and I knocked out two quick patterns (one only had three guide holes). One "Avengers" trivet for my wife, and the Celtic cross is for a friend.

Made this today for my daughter and son-in-law. I saw a paper cut out of it on line and tweaked it to look like them. Backed it with live edge Black Walnut.

This is the first portrait I have cut. The pattern is by Worbler. Bitchbark and Multitom also provided patterns. All three were so good it was difficult to choose. I'd like to thank all three for their fabulous work. Also thanks to Travis for making all this site what it is. I think I made a couple of basic errors. 1. I should have stack cut two. That way each of my daughters could have one someday. 2. I cut this from 1/8" BB with a #1 Polar blade. Were I thinking I should have used a reverse blade as I had lots of fuzzies toremove. On the last few cuts I used a #1 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Fuzzies gone. A couple of weeks ago I tried ordering a Klingspor mop. The site was down for two days and only accepted phone orders. Being deaf I could not do that so kind of set it aside. I got rid of the fuzzies but a mop would be quicker.

Sorry did I miss something?? Kevin has been showing us cutting boards that i think he wants to do and was looking for methods to plane them smooth. Or at least that is what I think he was asking. If asking about edge joining no better tool than a jointer but it can be done on a tablesaw with a good quality blade and also a router table set up done 2 different ways. Sorry if I misunderstood.

Thanks Jeff. I made a few pieces over the years that were one of a kinds and I will never duplicate again. The cross for my Mom is one because of the added saying on the back and I also made a Yankee watch for my Dad who was a huge Yankee fan and got me interested and has become my favorite team. Had it engraved too. I never really show these off but the topic brought back memories.

Dick,Fantastic job.Your getting Great at this!!!I do remember this pic.Don't know from where,but I do remember it.

If Mom gets the entire month of may, it only seems fair that Dad gets the entire month of June! This month's challenge is to make something for Dad. Maybe make it for your dad, husband, yourself, your son, or a new dad in the neighborhood! Anything a dad would like, because Dads need some love too.

WAY UP!

Welcome Rick. Nicely done. I cut that same bunny within a bunny puzzle out of 3/4" thick pine for kids to paint and play with. I started with those... and then moved up to these that I cut form Poplar... Be careful, puzzles are addictive...

Check this out. https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2016/06/22/how-to-flatten-a-slab/ You will need a full size router.

Whatever you do dont do it in your dining room. I thought it would be fun to play with mine in the dining room and I think i am still cleaning sawdust off of everythig a year later.

looks awesome!!!

This video shows edge routing stock with a router table. I suppose if you have to purchase a router and router table it might be less expensive to purchase a new jointer?

Cute, simple cut but just right. jim penquin

Kevin you will probably spend just about as much on a good router and a large bit as you would on a planer.not quite.but close enough. But I’m not sure if a planer is going to work for you on end grain. I never tried it with mine. As mentioned earlier a drum sander is ur best option for end grain boards. But a decent drum sander is going to be pricey. You can u-tube diy drum sanders. Not sure how well they work but it’s something that’s been on my list for that old table saw motor I got laying around for ten years. Some day maybe lol

Another nice native piece

One thing I've always heard/read, is that airborne silicone from aerosols can linger for a long time and contaminate wood surfaces that don't even come in direct contact with tables sprayed with silicone. It supposedly causes fish eyes in finishes and is very difficult to get rid of. I've read a few horror stories of guys who had silicone contamination in their shop. Might all be an internet myth, but I'd rather play it safe. Plenty of other products out there that provide the same benefit, without the risks.

Les I bought a Dewalt thumb screw to use on my Hegner top blade clamp. It is easier to tighten than the Hegner quick clamp at least for me. I need all the help I can get especially when ole Arther flares up.

Thanks Katie... Interesting pattern .. will try it this week

Very nice work all around !

Pretty Darn Cool!!

My Hitachi saw did that, to all my blades.I had to keep a pair of plyers beside me at all times.My Hitachi didn't last long though. my saw now doesn't do that.Thank Goodness.

36 blades @ $37.40 including shipping. Or $1.039 per blade. It is steep but if I like the blades I will call them and see if I can get a better price per gross. bb

Thanks Kevin. I looked at the picture. There is not much to it. I might order one. I'll post if I do.

Nick Nolte played in movie 48 Hours with Eddie Murphy nice job on the pattern. grizz Eastern Oregon

Nicely done. Jeff

Buy mine at Seyco.. as the DeWalt and the Excalibur have the same style.. http://seyco.com/quick-clamp-renewal-kit/

Very creative. I like it.

Very nicely done Lew. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

yes, kevin, , i'm sure. Ain't that what they send a manual along with the saw for with a parts diagram, & points to lube? They are sealed bearings.

I looked at the Delta parts page. There are a million models. Can you narrow my search a bit? I'd like to fine that thumb screw.

They are nice..because it's a cheap fix when the insert gets worn out you just pop a new one in.. no need to change the whole screw..

Hi to all My machine (Proxxon DSH) has this clamp. (Photo) This clamp is not that good. You have something to advise me about I would like a quick clamp for blade which fit my machine. regards Aris.

I'm patting myself on the back for gifting myself an LED magnifying lamp for my scroll saw. Excellent idea Travis. I should have it Wednesday.

Thanks for the information. JT introduced me to the problem and the problem is me. Everything is now copacetic. I have no problem with my thumb screw I just think a rotating tip seems like a good idea. Some good ideas are not necessary but still are very cool. I'd like to get one just to see if I could make one just for the fun of it.

One other little trick I have been using for some time now and works well. I hardly ever adjust that tension rod in the back. In fact I can't remember the last time I did. I have mentioned here many times my go to blade is a FD silver reverse #5 and I have have both my rbi saws set up for that blade with tension. When I change blades they are usually longer than this blade. So instead of resetting to accept the blade I just shorten it so that it fits nicely in the holder. The tension is never too tight unless when using jewelers blades. Those things are very finicky and all bets are off. Many times I will switch to the Dewalt when using them because easier to set tension without all that adjusting. Hope things continue to work out for you Les.

I just ordered the 257 and 579 assortments. I wanted more of the 5's and 7's but wanted to try the #2 and #9 as well. Shipping was $7.50 which is pretty close to actual shipping costs. The last time I shipped a priority mail envelope it was $7.10. When they come I will put them through tests on a Hawk, Hegner, and brand new Delta and will compare them with Pegas modified geometry blades. bb

Nice cutting boards Kevin. Try and photograph them against a plainer background though if you can. That will show them off better. Rob

Les I own 2 hawks and in my opinion there is no way you could ever bend a blade from tightening too much with a RBI blade holder. Can not be done. If the setscrew was too far in from vibration then the blade would have a dimple in it and the blade would not be centered in the clamp and traveling true up and down. So you need to check that adjustment from time to time. Sometimes it is harder to explain than what it is but will try. I am going to believe you have a quick release on the top arm. When you pull that arm down, the top of the blade should fall nicely into that blade holder with the top of the blade hitting the bottom of the rod that is just above the thumbscrew. The back of the blade should lay flat against the back of the clamp (thus the reason you can not ever bend a blade like that with those clamps) While holding that there tighten the thumbscrew. It is a dance that becomes so second nature and is so easy to do. Now to the reason possibly you are bending is because when you place the blade in the holder it is rocking backwards and the back of the blade does not sit flat against the blade holder. Or you are pulling it too far forward when you insert the blade. In other words the holder is placing the blade on an angle that is not straight up and down and when it starts to cut it now moves back into the straight up and down position thus bending the blade which would explain how or why that far down on the blade it is bending. You need to keep that holder pretty close to straight up and down when inserting blade. Second thing or suggestion is you are leaving too much blade stick up into the clamp and it is past that roller bearing on top of the thumbscrew. That bearing is the highest your blade can go or should go. If you go in front of that and then push the blade with force to get back to tighten the thumbscrew you now bent the top of the blade as you shown. Now if this stuff is just happening you got out of your routine and or there is something else going on. Make sure both clamps pivot freely when a blade is installed so they can rock with the motion of the arms going up and down. Yes it is a good idea to keep the thumbscrew and setscrew cleaned and roughed up abit. I always clean the ends of the blades on both sides with sandpaper before using. Takes off the oil that comes on blades from manufacturing and gives a little tooth so that the thumbscrew does not slip when tightened. Then I do not have to crank so hard on it. If none of this works then report back and we try something else.

The reason your blade is bending at the top Rocky, is from over tightening. If you're having to tighten your blade that tight in order to keep it in the blade holders, spin out your thumb screw & have a look see at the end of if it. I'm bettin' you'll find it shiny & smooth;) take it & run it across a piece of 100 grit sandpaper a few times & you'll get your grip back. Ya may have to adjust your hex screw in the blade holder just a little to the inside. Ya might try backin' your tension off just a little, too. If your blade makes a high pitched ping when you tension it, that's plenty. The tighter the tension, the more pull it puts on your blade. In turn, is tougher to keep in your blade holder. And puts extra wear & tear on the wedge & threads at the back of the saw. Remember, the smaller the blade the more tension. The larger the blade the less tension. And in bb, ya might try usin' a piece of a candle, or soap on the blade for a little lube.

Does the balde holder have a set screw for keeping the blade centered in the holder? If it does it may have worked itself out a little from the vibration of the saw. So when you tighten the thumb screw you are actually bending the top of the blade because it is pushing the blade into the hole where the set screw is supposed to be.

Only use Mobil 1 5-20 or your saw will throw a rod.

Never oiled any of my saws.

BEAUTIFUL! Jerry.

I disabled the ability to add new saws until the forum content has been moved to the new section. This is so we don't duplicate saws.

No clue who it is, but nice job on the pattern.

Thanks I think I have it now Dick heppnerguy

The dragon I did back in '02 and it took me forever, using my original Delta 15". I would cut a few of the scales and get frustrated and set the project aside for a few weeks and then try again. This went on for a few months Last year I did the Grizzly Bear and thought nothing of it (that was after I had cut the Viking Warrior with Scrappile's encouragement). Different saws and experience do make a difference. Jeff

I haven't taken the time to fully test this but I think it should work. I made the pattern using Scroll Mania's PolyDraw Oval Bowl.pdf